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MrSilverFox

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 2700x
  • Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus AM4 ATX
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 3000MHz
  • GPU
    GeForce(R) RTX 2060 6GB
  • Case
    Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic ATX Mid-Tower
  • Storage
    500GB WB Blue SSD Sata
  • PSU
    600W Thermaltake SMART series, 80 Plus Gold
  • Display(s)
    27" 1920x1080 Acer, 24" 1920x1080 View Sonic
  • Cooling
    x3 120mm Enermax RGB PWM Case Fans, Master Liquid Lite 120mm CPU Liquid Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Razer Ornata Chroma
  • Mouse
    Razer Mamba
  • Operating System
    Windows

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  1. Hello, I was wondering if there are any sleek and good laptops out there people recommend for gaming, but also include a 10-key numpad built in? I'd like to stay under $2k and it just seems the 10 key is dying out, but I basically live by it. Thanks,
  2. Legit already doing it I appreciate the help here in the forum with this. I'm honestly more mad about myself troubleshooting this for about 5 hours today with this being the result lol
  3. Ahh, yeeep. That looks like the one lol. Gooood stuff it seems then.
  4. Oof. Fair lol Honestly, I just needed a cheap, low end graphics card anyways lol. Like even if I could get this dang thing working in some aspect, then I would be fine. But if that's the case. Maybe I'll try and return it as a defective piece for my money back and go from there and maybe see what I can get from like Newegg that's not more than like $300
  5. Just tested with Secure Boot turned off, and still the same result. No output to anything. Unplugged GPU and picked back up immediately. Wonder if it's something with the graphics card then...
  6. Yeah. That is correct. It has DVI, VGA, HDMI out. Maybe that's what I get for buying from eBay then?
  7. Hmm. I'll check BIOS for secure boot and see. In regards to the graphics card...I really don't have a way to test it, like I don't have another machine I can plug it into to see if it works. I've actually never thought about testing a GPU before...Any ways to test if you're not sure it works on the machine. (I guess this is just potential future question asking here lol)
  8. Hello, I bought a 1050 TI and have installed it in my older Gateway Dx4870. The computer is running a i3-2130 and when the graphics card isn't installed. Everything is fine. But as soon as I plug in the graphics card and start the computer, i receive a 'no signal' on the monitor when plugged in to either the onboard graphics or the graphics card via both HDMI or VGA. I've tried to uninstall the Intel graphics and just have the Microsoft Basic Visual Adapter driver installed and then install it, but that hasn't worked. And I can't preinstall any Nvidia drivers because, well, when it's plugged in I get no graphic output. I'm not sure why I can't get any display out of anything when I have the graphics card plugged in. Thoughts?
  9. Hmm. Looking at it, the 1050ti would probably pull off what I need without even needing a PSU upgrade. Tbh, I'll probably try and grab one of those if I can find one for about that price point. Slap a cheap SSD in this bad boy and call it a day lol. Thank you.
  10. I have an old Gateway DX4870 computer that I'm trying to upgrade to make a low budget gaming computer. Like nothing intense. Heck, the main game wanting to be ran is Gold Rush on it. It has a Intel i3-2130 which I'm pretty much fine with, unless a cheap alternative is better in some form of an i5 processor that works with the motherboard. Then I would need a dedicated gpu. I was thinking something along the lines of a 1050, 1060, 1070, etc. But I've always struggled trying to understand compatibility. Would it even work?? And I think the biggest thing I'll have to do is get a new psu since this one is rated for 300w and I don't think that would be enough, right??? Like the 1080 is an average 200TDP, and that alone they say like you should allocate like 50% additional wattage, so right there is 300w in the GPU alone. Basically I'm just trying to maximize potential here with what I already have?
  11. Thank you for your help. I removed the WAN link, and DHCP, and removed all reservations and such that I had set in the TP-Link. Plugged in the cables directly to the switch, and then had an uplink from the switch to a LAN port on the RG. Everything is one network, the Double NAT issue should be gone, and my wireless still works upstairs so the parents are happy haha. I've been for about 20 minutes without a packet drop to either router with pings to them, and hopefully I can go at least a few hours without a drop. Thank you both for the advice and kinda helping me in the right direction before I dove in and broke it more.
  12. Alright. I suppose I will give this a try tomorrow and see what I can mess up haha! I'll come back and update on what happens with it later. Thanks
  13. Double NAT could be a problem because I get messages about that issue on my console every now and again. But... I still don't see how I can turn the TP into just 'wifi mode'. That might take a bit more work that I would have to do tomorrow because the TP-Link dishes out DHCP. And I guess I just don't know if the RG would pass the DHCP through the other router because it doesn't have just a switch or option for a 'bridge/wifi' mode that I can see.
  14. This is a little more accurate for what it seems like we have. If that helps
  15. Would this break any current configurations since everything is configured to the TP-Links setup? The gateway is needed because it has the actual internet fiber connection plugged into it in the basement. Like the incoming fiber line goes directly into it. I can't easily remove the switch because all drops are terminated in the basement and wouldn't reach to the TP upstairs, which sources our wireless signal and most parental/access controls and better security options than the Gateway. Can do. Will work on it. Edited because picture loaded, but it's a little off. I will try and use the Draw.io and see if I can get a basic network diagram.
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