Drivestort

Not a bad idea, but I have no idea where I'd get something like that for that purpose, and yeah, the rear IO.

I just recently built a Ryzen system with a Ryzen 5 1600 cpu, B450 Carbon Gaming Pro (wifi), Trident Z Royal ram (8gb x2), Intel 660P NVME drive, and a Sapphire RX 580 gpu. The case that I had for it is a Carbide Spec 06. While the board was placed in the case, with the standoffs that came with the case in the positions for an ATX board, which is where they were all placed when I received it, it was causing some kind of short that kept the motherboard from posting. Specifically, it would have the CPU led on the debug panel lit. After moving the setup to an older case (where I only screwed in the three screws along the middle, horizontally), the system boots and runs fine. The Carbide case doesn't seem to have any warping on the inside panel that would bring it too close Does anyone have any suggestions for how I could get the board to work in the Carbide case? Has anyone heard of or seen this before with this case in particular?

I don't have another monitor to test.

Phenom II x6, Gigabyte 78-LMT motherboard, 2 8 gig sticks of Nemix ddr3 ram, and a Sapphire Nitro+ RX 580. My monitors are an Acer LCD x223w connected via DVI-D, and a Samsung SynchMaster sc300_s22c300h connected via HDMI. With both monitors set to defaults (1920x1080, 59hz for Samsung, 1680x1050, 60hz for Acer), I've come to my computer after it's turned the monitors off, give the mouse a jiggle, and while the Samsung, my primary display, appears fine, the Acer shows multicolored static/snow. Changing the resolution of the Acer display in Windows 10 settings returned it to normal, at which point I also changed the Samsung display to 60hz refresh, and changed the Acer back to the original resolution. This evening, the same happened, and yet again changing the resolution of the Acer made the display appear normal again. I've already checked the DVI cable to make sure that it's not got any kinks or appears to have any stressful points on the connections.

Good to know! I was terrified because getting this for so cheap was cutting my way to getting an upgraded computer a lot sooner. Thanks!

My system is a Phenom II x6, Gigabyte 78-LMT motherboard, 2 8 gig sticks of Nemix ddr3 ram, and a 'new' Sapphire Nitro+ RX 580 that I purchased on eBay. The graphics card as received was very clean, only a bit of dust, as if it was barely used (seller said that it was in a rarely used computer). It's connected via HDMI cable, I just installed it Thursday, and reinstalled drivers via the Radeon settings app. My old graphics card was also a Sapphire, so I had an older version of the Sapphire TriXX app installed. Both previous days I had the card, I've used it for playing World of Tanks and Vermintide 2 without any problems. Tonight, after about an hour of playing World of Tanks, I got a weird graphical glitch that had elements of the UI, both the game and Windows 10, jumping around and artefacting, showing parts of my background and multiple windows, and window elements (like the minimize and close buttons) enlarged and in wrong places. I closed the game, tried minimizing windows, but the glitching remained, so I hard shut down the computer, and when restarting none of the errors remained. I've since uninstalled the old version of TriXx and installed the new version, and used it to check the health of the card for the functions that it can show. So, my question is, does this seem to any of you to be just some driver thing, did I get a bum card and try and get my money back? I took a couple of pictures with my phone of what the screen was doing, but of course the bits that the phone captured were when it wasn't too bad.

Understanding the problem lets me be able to live with it and prepare for the situation. I've been planning on building a replacement in the next couple of months, so I can just grab a fresh ssd in a couple of weeks to lift the burden off of the current drive, since that was in the plans already. Thanks for your help, I'll go ahead and close this.

Well, I did spend a very long time before now with very little free space on the drive, I'm a file and game hoarder. Anyway, I have no idea what any of the granular stuff from CrystalDisk means, so I'll go ahead and give you a screenshot of that for translation.

Right, but what I'd heard was that 10 removes the necessity of defragging for the most part. Anyway, according to the Optimize Drives tool, the 'System Reserved' option is 40% fragmented, so giving it a go.

According to CrystalDisk and SMART stuff, the drive is fine. I'd heard people say that you don't really need to defrag with Windows 10 these days, but I'll give it a go.

I like the more open interiors of modern cases. I've never had need of putting some 6+ drives in a case to justify needing the entire height of it being taken up by drive trays.

Phenom II x6, Gigabyte 78-LMT motherboard, 2 8 gig sticks of Nemix ddr3 ram, Sapphire HD 7870 gpu, the hard drive is a 1tb Seagate ST1000DL002, nothing's been overclocked and temps are consistently between 30 and 35C

For the past couple of months, my computer has been randomly rebooting, sometimes with a bluescreen (with various errors attached, but most often Kernel Power), but increasingly with no bluescreen at all, just going black and going to POST. I've been working at eliminating some of the potential causes for these, as I replaced my motherboard in December and admittedly, some of those issues were probably related to its hardware. But for a few years now, I would occasionally get on booting BIOS saying that there isn't a boot drive, but that's happening even more frequently now, along with the full rebooting. I've reinstalled Windows 10 twice, and it's still happening with absolutely no rhyme or reason. According to the Reliability Monitor, Windows simply stopped working with no messages or errors happening before it. I haven't seen a bluescreen in a few weeks, but the reboots happen every few days, sometimes twice a day, sometimes up to 5 days in between. I'm at the end of my rope, and the only thing I can think of at this point is that maybe my hard drive is dying? It's at least like 10 years old.