osak4x
-
Posts
22 -
Joined
-
Last visited
osak4x's Achievements
-
I have had bad luck with this PC so I rather deal with a fan replacement again than resetting my bios. I was thinking about my options. I could connect one of the chassis fans to the power supply and connect the cpu fan to a chassis fan connector. The only problem is that I would get warnings because the motherboard would think there is no cpu fan.
-
I would reduce the speed of the cpu fan if I could. And I don't think the cpu fan is faulty or the connector is faulty. I will try switching to the OPT_FAN connector but I don't think that is gonna do something.
-
I'm a newbie obviously. I thought that didn't matter because all the other fans can be controlled even if they only have 3 pin holes.
-
The original CPU fan was very faulty and I had to replace it. I bought a cooler master sickleflow 120mm and I successfully removed the original CPU fan and replaced it with the new one. The problem I have now is that I can't control the fan anymore. I noticed the fan didn't have the extra pin hole but I didn't think it would be a problem because the other chassis fans only have 3 pins and I can control them just fine. But I can't. I have been using ASUS Fan Xpert 2. I tried changing the RPM settings in the BIOS and I also tested it with SpeedFan program and no luck. The CPU Fan is always running at 100%. Is there a way to control the CPU fan? My motherboard has 2 CPU fan connectors, would be there any difference if I connect it in the other one? Kind of off topic question: If I can't control the CPU fan it will be always running at 2000 rpm. Will that somehow cause any problems with the air flow? Do I have to increase the other fans rpms to match the CPU fan? Setup > I have 4 fans: 1 front fan 200 mm running at 450 rpm 1 top fan 200 mm running at 450 rpm 1 back fan 120 mm running at 1400 rpm 1 CPU fan 120 mm running at 2000 rpm Thanks in advance. Specs: Case: HAF 912 CPU Cooler: Hyper Evo 212 Motherboard: Asus P8Z77 V-PRO
-
I don't mind the noise and I would definitely do that because where I live and my room is really hot. My friends call it the oven. But sadly I can't do that because the fans would fail earlier.
-
Thanks. I will go lower on the RPM in that case. That might make the fans last a little longer.
-
I thought it had to be lower than the Tcase max temperature which is 67.4c in my case. CPU spec sheet link: http://ark.intel.com/products/65719/Intel-Core-i7-3770-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz What size are your fans?
-
This is my first time I build a PC so I'm not sure if these RPM are OK. Temperatures with the current RPM configuration I have: Idle: 40c CPU temperature (highest temperature of the cores). Although in Fan Xpert 2 it says 32c as the CPU temperature. Anyone knows why? Load: 60c CPU temperature (highest temperature of the cores) My question is: Are these RPM extremely high? Should I go for lower RPM's? Note: I don't mind the fans being loud as long as they keep everything relatively cool. Thanks in advance. Fan Xpert 2 screenshot: My specs:Nothing is overclockedCPU: Intel Core i7 3770Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V ProCPU Cooler: Evo Hyper 212CPU Fan & Back fan: SickleFlow 120 (http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/sickleflow-120-2000rpm-red-led/)Front Fan & Top fan: Megaflow 200 (http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/megaflow-200-red-led-silent-fan/)Case: HAF 912
-
Yes. I have 1 UPS exclusively for the PC. Thanks for the link. It's really good. The extended test has just finished. I couldn't find the log but in test result it says: PASS and I checked the SMART attributes again and they are the same.
-
I did a quick test and it passed. I'm gonna do an extended one. But for now these are the screenshots... I don't know how to read the SMART values WD is showing me though. Edit: When I hover over the value, it says: Attribute falling below threshold indicates a negative health status. And worst: Worst attribute value ever occurred. So I guess, the write error count never ocurred? I also used Crystal Disk Info and in raw value (write error count) it had "00000000001". SMART: Results:
-
Around 2-3 months ago I discovered my primary HDD (WD-1002FEAX-00Z3A0, it's a western digital) had 1 write error count. I kept checking everyday (I'm serious) if the value was increasing but it didn't until today. (I did a chkdsk right after I discovered the write error count. Here is the log: http://pastebin.com/3t4yQshw) Today I checked the value as always but to my surprise, the value is 0 (it decreased from 1). I don't understand. Is the HDD going to fail sooner? If not, what happened to that write error count? I'm so confused. Any help is appreciated. Thanks... SMART:
-
The entire PSU is covered in black. Image: http://www.corsair.com/media/catalog/product/a/x/AX860_PSU_sideview_b.png Can I use the black screws?
-
Does the coil increase over time? Or does it stay at the same level? (Volume wise)
-
I live in Mexico. Here, the electricity structure is a f-ing joke. So, yes, I do have a bad ground connection. I have 1 UPS Cyberpower dedicated to protect the PC though. So this is normal, huh? If the buzzing noise increases, that is NOT normal, right?
-
I had a XFX PSU that burnt a chip on my graphics card. Whenever I had focus on a game (game window), there would be a buzz noise coming from the speakers. I had to replace the PSU, motherboard and graphics card. It had been around 7 months with no issues (no buzzing noise) until last night. I discovered a buzz noise that is coming from the speakers and the PSU itself. Is this normal? If not, am I fucked? What should I do? Sell them? It is really hard to say when it started to happen but I think it was because I ran a somewhat beefy game (it was World of Warcraft Molten Core instance, with high/good settings [not ultra]). The game was lagging (graphically wise) a bit. On a side note: I can't believe a PSU from fucking China has better product quality than from Corsair. I had a Dell, almost everything was from China, and I never had any problems like these before. Unbelievable.