AndersT2

For many monitors the highest Hz is an "overclocked" framerate. For my monitor to get 144Hz in stead of 120Hz, I have to change from RGB to YCbCr422 in Nvidias Control Panel. You won't see a big difference in game, but text reading on white backgrounds ect gives worse colors around the text. So I keep mine to 120Hz. And as others mentioned here, chech the manual, they list, often in the last pages, where specifications are listed, how many Hz each input type can handle. This also depends on the output on your PC to can handle it. Doesn't help to have HDMI 2.1 input on the monitor, and an HDMI 2.1 cable, if the PC port only have HDMI 2.0. The same with Displayport.

Testet BIOS rollback, and it worked. So something was wrong with the latest BIOS from Asus.

I remembered the wrong EZ name, it the EZflash menu it starts up in directly. Found the USB stick, and we have used the correct BIOS file. There was a BIOS roll back option on the menu, can we upload an earlier bios with that? Never used it before.

Little tip when installing fresh. Only connect the drive you're putting windows on, then it's no chance of clearing the wrong drive. And update your motherboard bios before installing windows, just to be safe. Got trouble with an intel PC updating bios this weekend

There was nothing unusual that I haven't seen before during installation, nothing about activating Bitlocker or anything like that. EDIT: Would think if it was a missmatch between the motherboard and bitlocker that it would boot into windows when choosing override under the boot menu. I would think an encrypted drive should work without the correct key?

Edit: Changed the title, misremembered the EZflash name Helped a buddy put together his new PC. Have build 40-50 PCs before, but never gotten this before. It's the first Intel PC in years. PC was put together, Windows 11 Pro installed and everything worked as normal. Downloaded latest BIOS for the Asus B760-Plus Wifi motherboard, version 1402 I think it was. It updated normally, but when restarting the PC started up direcly in the BIOS update screen, not the main BIOS screen. (Updated through Bios with USB). During the update it restarted and added Intel ME stuff, before going back into BIOS, so just as normal. Going back into the BIOS, and looking at the Boot order, the only SSD is in first place. The only way to get into Windows is further down on the boot side, where we kan press the SSD under some override stuff. I tried to press the BIOS update again, and see that they mention something about Bitlocker key, and taking a backup of that. I remember something about this when Win 11 launched, but never though about it. Build a AMD 5700X PC for work about 2 weeks ago, and this didn't happen there, even if I updated BIOS as I did here. It has been tested to reset BIOS, but didn't help. Any Idea what how to solve this? Have asked the same in a Norwegian forum, but none of the 120 that has read it, has any idea what it can be. Are going to test reinstallation of windows, since the PC hasn't been used yet, only testet stuff before this happened, so no worries about loosing anything, but if it keeps opening in EZsetup, it seems to be something wrong with the BIOS/Motherboard. EDIT: Can it be the wrong BIOS? I see Asus has B760-PLUS WIFI and B760-PLUS WIFI D4 versions. Is it possible for the moterboard to accept the wrong one?

I'll think I wait until the weekend, and try the Grizzly stuff again, have more time then. I tried adjusting the powerplan as someone suggested. Turning it to 99% instead of 100% put the GHz down to 2,77, and not 3,97 when I ran Cinebench, and dropped the score from 4600 (last run I did) to 3200. I switched from the Ryzen powerplan, to high, which from what I can see is changing the low power state of the CPU from 90% with Ryzen plan to 5% with Windows own. It should hold until the weekend I thing, or maybe if I get of work early tomorrow.

I just switched out my 1800X with a 3700X. On an Asus Crosshair VI Extreme (X370). On Cinebench R20, I got 4539 over 3335 with the 1800X But the 1800X only got to 74C while the 3700X got ut to 85C Does it run hotter, or is it most likely that I mounted the Noctua back in wrong? (Which is normally hard to do) (The 14 something that has the fan lying with the motherboard) I have got a new Thermal Grizzly compound I never tried before, but when I tried to use it, it looked way to rubbery, and trying to spread it out with the plastic thing, didn't work. So I used the BeQuiet thermal compound, and aplied it as usual (Rubbing it out with a gloved finger to get an even spread (Don't like the pea method, have tried it, and trust Singuality Computer on the method I used here, worked perfect every time before) EDIT: Forgot Idle temps, it's around 64C now. with room temp at 33C, was about 54 or something with the 1800X. I don't have the best case for thermals.

That shouldn't be a problem with most games, but it depends on the game. I used a 3770K with 1080ti, and wasn't that much of a problem, gained alittle FPS with the 8700K, but not that much

Shouldn't make a difference.

Which game? For most games, CPU shouldn't be using that much, it means that the CPU is bottlenecking, and can't give enough information to the GPU. How much is the GPU using? For me the GPU is normally when gaming (1080ti) using close to 100%, and the CPU around 50% maybe at times (FPS games like Tomb Raider ect). It really depends on the game too, what it uses the most CPU or GPU. What CPU do you have?

SSD is storage, not memory. M.2 is a port type that supports S-ATA and PCIe (NVMe) signals. With newer hardware you can use a NVMe SSD which has faster speeds than the S-ATA (4 to 8 times faster). In game it won't matter that much, because the game uses RAM for resources for the most things, but it will helt with load times (but not in all game)

3600x have higher base and boost clocks, around 200MHz base, 3,8 vs 3,6 3600 kan easily be overclocket up to the same.

Most likely a program running on the side of gaming. Have used tripple monitors for years, with one for gaming, and never had that problem. Have taskmanager up to see what's running while gaming, and when the framedropps happend, look over to see which other program used resourses at that time. Remember to set the view to what pulls the highest. You can switch between CPU and GPU if your Windows is new enough

That's the straight conversion numbers. Normally USD prices is 10-11 times in Norway, so I'm betting around 2900 USD, alot up from the quessed 2500 price. I have also waited for this since the mentioned in CES 2017, but think I'm saving the money to over summer to see how the prices change (Don't think they will), and seeing how the AOC version gets reviewed. It should be a little cheaper (Guessing 200-500 USD cheaper) EDIT: Comparing it to the last big step release from Asus, the PG27UQ (The 4K 144Hz screen), it seems to hold it's price too good here in Norway, with the odd sale, so I'll be keeping a price notification on these: https://prisguiden.no/produkt/asus-rog-swift-pg27uq-286003

Its 3440X1440 resolution, for me the perfect resoluition and size for a PC monitor, have an AOC like that today. It's 200Hz, Gsync and 1000nits HDR, with individual dimmable zones, (FALD), don't remember the actual number of zones, but either 384 or 512. First monitor that seems to have it all: UItrawide, HDR, 120Hz+, Gsync and curved

Sometimes there isn't a news site source, because they haven't seen it yet, or picked up the leak yet. So one can't break news here on the most sought after monitor in years, that many have been waiting over 2 years for? Sometimes not everything falls within guide lines.

Looks like the Asus PG35VQ is coming in the end of Juni. Has god date 21 and 26 in two of the biggest PC shops in Norway, with the same price. Price should equal to $2900 USD, even if the conversion rate says something else. Normal is 10-11 times the USD price for prices in Norway because of high taxes (25% consumer tax on everything but food.) The Asus is almost 1000,- NOK cheaper than the Acer X35 price released on Proshop a couple of weeks ago. https://www.komplett.no/product/1132633/gaming/gamingskjermer/asus-35-led-curved-pg35vq# https://www.proshop.no/Skjermer/ASUS-35-Skjermer-PG35VQ-Svart-4-ms-NVIDIA-G-SYNC-HDR/2777719?utm_source=tekno&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pricesite

They have had early prices for LG monitors before, which have been accurate for releease price.

I think Linus mentioned last WAN show as his favorite monitor, and it was coming in July (this or the Asus version). I might wait for the AOC version that I heard where releasing in September'ish times. Have their 21:9 today, and two other panels from them at work. never had a problem.

The Norwegian site for the danish computer shop Proshop have released a price for the Acer Predator X35, at 29.490,- NOK, which translates to 3418 USD. Normally the USD price of a item in Norway because of high taxes is roughly 10-times, which should make the X35 be around 2900 USD Release date they say is 1-3 months, which normally for this shop means they don't know when it's releasing, but one can pre-order it now. It's more expensive than I had hoped. Link: https://www.proshop.no/Skjermer/Acer-35-Skjermer-Predator-X35-Svart-4-ms-NVIDIA-G-SYNC-HDR/2775707

Why was it moved? It was a Feature suggestion for LTT, not something I'm making myself.

Why isn't there a date when the videoes on Floatplane is released, minuts and hours the first day, then days after that.

Jayztwocent and Barnacules had an ide on their live stream a few years ago that they didnt run with. Since Jerry got himself an hook-on bidet for his toilet, they discussed on using a watercooled PC to heat the water used. I think its two ways to do it, heat exchanger of valves that switches from internal loop to city water. But don't think the last one will be fast enough to heat the water (maybe with pre-Ryzen AMD CPUs and high end Vega GPU) https://www.amazon.com/Toilet-Bidet-Retractable-Nozzles-Attachment/dp/B07D3M35XV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3M4FOXT627M7E&keywords=bidet+for+toilet&qid=1552144337&s=gateway&sprefix=Bide%2Caps%2C281&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

If Clear Cmos doesn't work. You can try updating to the latest BIOS. MSI recommends you update AMDs driver first to it's latest Version. You can also take out so you only have 1 RAM stick in, and switch them to see if one of the are bad.