PCproverbial

Decided to take some screenshots, I think they will come through clearer than my descriptions. If anyone knows how to replace these (or even what they are, because I guess I don't know for sure) I would appreciate a diagnosis. Thanks.

Found the solution. It is severely limited in a way that the Asus Aura software would not be, but it works at a basic level. The fans came with RGB 3-button hardware controllers that I didn't recognize as being fan controllers, as well as a 4-pin standard fan to 4-pin RGB adapter, but that I had forgotten about. Thanks

My motherboard doesn't have an RBG header, so the fan controller would need to work without one.My fans are from the brand Deepcool (2x RF120s and 6x RF140s), and I bought the Deepcool FH-10 fan controller but it does not have RGB functionality. I also tried the Coolermaster RGB LED fan controller but the pins on it are slightly different from the pins on my fans (pins on the controller are round-- pins on the fans are square).So, I'm looking for an RGB fan controller that will work without the RGB header on the motherboard, and that isn't the Coolermaster controller. I would really like to be able to use the RGB on the Deepcool fans I have, so if you have any ideas don't hesitate. Thanks

I took apart my GTX 1080 ti founder's edition card because I wanted to build a hybrid-cooled card. I decided eventually (the card was sitting out exposed for a long time) to stick with air-cooling, but now I need some guidance regarding its reassembly. There are at least two kinds of thermal pads that the card uses. The first is maybe a millimeter or so thick, and is made of a light-green colored, springy material. These are the pads that are used on the VRAM. I These ones I don't have a problem with; they're accounted for and in the right places on the card. The second kind of thermal pad (the one I'm having problems with) is like a combination of a white/light-gray putty, with fibers/threads in the material. These things became loose as soon as I opened the graphics card, they were not as adhesive as the green pads. Furthermore, they were extremely fragile. Just trying to hold them, they broke down and deformed. They were used on a few other sub-components of the card, though I don't know the name for these components. Due to the fragility of these white pads, and because I left them out for so long, they were covered in dust and debris, and falling apart. I think I ended up throwing them away because they seemed unusable. Now I'm looking for a solution to make sure the card is sufficiently cooled. I do have some of Akasa's VGA RAM heatsinks, which I still had from when I planned on watercooling. These come with square adhesives that go on the bottom of the mini-heatsinks and presumably serve a thermal-related function; but these pads are so thin, thinner than the putty the card came with, that I think it causes a problem: The green thermal pads are thick enough that (I'm pretty sure) they sandwich between the VRAM and the other plastic part of the graphics card that they stick to. The Akasa thermal pads are much thinner than the green pads or the white putty, and so they don't make contact with both pieces of the card. I think they're supposed to, because I can see the residue where the putty was on one piece of the card (which also tells me which components on the opposite piece of the card need cooling.) What would you recommend for this situation? I don't want the card to overheat, and yet it seems like it needs cooling on those components. Is there a product you know of that would work as a replacement for the thermal pads, or another solution you can think of? Thank you.

I've actually found exactly what I'm looking for, in the form of the Koolance GPU-230. Thank you all for your suggestions.

Thank you. If readers have any other suggestions, I'll be even more specific and mention that it's the Nvidia Founder's Edition card.

^If they were able to keep the card's outer casing on, that's about what I'm looking for. Do you know which blocks they got to work with that card?

Just coverage for the GPU itself, for the gtx 1080 ti.

For the water-cooled graphics card I'm trying to set up, the EK VGA Supremacy is just slightly too tall/thick (dimension from the baseplate to the top of the waterblock), and the EK thermosphere is short/thin enough but is too long. I could use some recommendations for the most compact GPU blocks you know of. Thanks. Edit: The GPU I'm cooling is the Nvidia Founder's Edition GTX 1080 Ti. Trying to make a hybrid-cooled card where only the GPU itself is watercooled, with as little disassembly of the card as possible.

I was halfway through trying to install a waterblock on my graphics card, when I read that static can damage your PC components, and that there's really no way to know in what way or to what extent (unless it's dead, then it's not working at all). I'll see if it's minimally functional soon enough, but I'm wondering what I might look for on the monitor's display, software defects, or other things in order to detect partial graphics card damage, or what instances of static damage you have either experienced yourself or learned about through other people.

Thanks, please let me know if you do find one.

The front face, to be specific. Like the latter two photos in your post, but reversed.

no. 4 in the OP. Yeah I was thinking about that, but I don't want to risk damaging the rad. I'll use the alphacool model if it's the only one of its kind

^ Yeah the port arrangement on the hardware labs radiators is different from what I'm looking for. If there are any more brand alternatives I would appreciate the input.

Hello, I could use some help looking for a radiator. The radiator needs to have certain features. 1) Not the Alphacool ST30 X-flow (I found this as a fair example, but am looking for other models to compare it to and choose from a broader selection.) 2) 280mm (2x 140mm fans) 3) X-flow or X-flow enabled radiator 4) ports for fittings on the bottom-right and top-left of the radiator (more ports in other locations is fine) 5) black 6) Less than or equal to 30mm rad thickness. (slightly thicker is fine)