FrankGehry

I don't overclock. If anything, I'll undervolt my GPU when mining.

Okay, thank you for the exaplanation. Is ~$950 a reasonable amount to spend on a water loop? I know about half of that is on the GPU block alone, but I do think EK has the best block for a 3090 FE.

As far as corrosion goes, EK lists the GPU water block as "The block's base is milled out of a 12 mm thick piece of pure electrolytic copper sourced from Europe, which is then nickel-plated". But then the CPU block is copper, and I'm not sure what type of metal the radiators are made from. Would it be ideal to have each metal element in the loop be as similar as possible?

I appreciate your help. I have the A12 fans as well that have the square frame (although I can't remember their model name).

My 120mm fans are Noctua NF-P12 and my 140mm's are Noctua NF-A15

I mis-typed my CPU...it's a 3900x

Custom water loop noob here... Below is a link to a custom loop that I setup using EK's configurator. https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW608eeadbab34c My CPU is a 3600x 3900x, and my GPU is a 3090 FE. I want to make sure there will no issues with corrosion and that there are no parts I should be wary of (for instance, is the pump, reservoir combo okay?). I have a couple questions about the loop as well. 1. Do I need to use the fans it's suggesting, or can I use the Noctua fans I already have? 2. Do I need to use Cryofuel, or is just water okay? Would distilled water be best? 3. My current power supply is a EVGA P2 850 W 80+ Platinum, and my current power draw according to PC Part Picker is 613W. Would I still have enough to power the pump as well?

I think if I ran it at stock speeds (full fan, full voltage, etc.) then I could get it up to the 120 range. But my memory would also be sitting around 110C.

I've mined a bit of ETH on my 3090 FE, and I even swapped out the stock thermal paste and pads to try and lower temperatures. Right now, I'm running an under-volt on my card with the fan at 70% (for noise purposes) when mining to achieve around 106 MH/s. My memory temperatures hover between 90-94C. Is this a safe temperature for my card to mine in 8-ish hour increments? I'm not mining every day either...mostly just days I'm working at home. I just want to get your thoughts on these temps. I don't want to kill my card prematurely.

I've done some mining on my 3090 FE, and I replaced all the stock thermal pads along with the thermal paste. I'm undervolting my card, and I can get around 106 MH/s. My memory temps are between 90-94C. Is this a safe temperature for my card to mine at in 8-ish hour segments?

I purchased the Asus Proart display ($299 version). It arrived today, so I'm excited to set it up once I get home from work.

Do you mind giving me a link to a site where I could purchase the Dell. It looks like Dell is saying it's discontinued, and other sites have it, but for +$600. Does the '18' in the model number refer to the year is was released? Do you think the U2720Q would be the same monitor but just updated to 2020?

Thank you for the input. I could potentially swing the Dell for around $450 but I also see it on sites like this for substantially less at $213. There are three sites under Google Shopping that have it available at that price...any idea what's up with that? Maybe I could talk myself into downgrading to 1440p with the points you mention. Do you have any thoughts on this monitor?

Hmm, I just realized that the $300 pro art display is only 1440p. Would there be a good 4k recommendation?

I just pulled the trigger on the color calibrator

I appreciate your input. I just had a look at the ProArt monitors, and $299 certainly sounds better than $399 (for the LG monitor I linked). I'd be curious if you have an suggestions for the $300 to $400 price range (USD). And yes, I've seen the color calibration tools as well. Would you recommend one like this? I'm curious how much a difference it would make from how I see my screen now, but hearing you describe it makes me want to buy one. Do you think if I have two different monitors, I could use the color calibrator and get their displays close to matching?

I bought an LG UD68-W back around March 2019 because I just built my first computer. I do creative work, so I wanted a good value IPS 4k screen, and I don't care too much about FPS. Now, I would like to buy a second monitor to go with it, but I cannot find the same exact monitor (white color). I can, however, purchase the black edition, and I'm okay having the same monitors, but with different housing colors. But, then I wonder if it's worth spending ~$400 on this monitor that I believe is almost 5 years old as there are questions on the Amazon page from May of 2016. So, would it be wiser, in your opinion, for me to bail on the idea of having matching monitors and instead buy a more 'up to date' IPS 4k monitor for around the same price? If there's a better monitor out there, I'm open to suggestions. In terms of creative work, I can mostly do any color specific work on the better monitor, and use the other for non-color specific tasks. I'm not crazy about RGB and outlandish aesthetics either if that matters. EDIT: For instance, I'm eyeing this monitor from LG as well, and it's just 10 bucks more...not sure if it's notably better or not.

That's a shame that's how it is on what was a $100 dollar case.

Yep, I connected the same earpods with the same splitter to the rear mobo audio jacks, and it works fine.

I have a Corsair 400q case that has the typical separate headphone and microphone 3.5mm jacks. I would like to use a pair of Apple Earpods with the jacks, so I purchased a splitter from Amazon. With the splitter, I can hear audio just fine, but the microphone setting is extremely static to the point you cannot understand anything at all (it sounds like white noise). I attempted to adjust the microphone volumes to a lower setting, but that didn't improve clarity. Sadly, I don't have another pair of 3.5mm jack earbuds to try and troubleshoot, but I figure that earbuds are simple enough with their 3-ring 3.5mm jack that this issue mostly lies in either 1) the jacks on my case 2) the splitter or 3) setting in Windows. From Amazon reviews, it looks like others have had similar issues w/ splitters causing static recording. Has anyone else had an issue like this? I'm certain all the jacks are pushed into the female connections completely. I've tired twisting them around to see if that would improve things but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Okay, I'll try Afterburner. I have EVGA Precision X1 installed right now, and I've fiddled around with fan settings in there, but none of them seem to do anything.

I've had my 2080 ti Founder's Edition since March 2019. Since if first put it in my system and started it up, one fan would spin at 1500 rpm and be audible to the point of being a little annoying. The other fan spins at norman, much quieter speeds. Once in a blue moon, for some reason, the loud fan will slow down to the speed of the other fan, and my system becomes much quieter. I'm not sure what causes it. I read that the fan that is spinning faster may be the fan that cools the power components of the graphics card, but this would seem weird that the power components would require this fan spinning full speed all the time. Does this behavior seem similar to anyone else with the Founder's Edition 2080 ti? Is there a way to slow the fan speeds? I don't game at all on this card. I use it for 3d modelling and other design softwares, so the temperatures don't get all that high. I'm using the Creator drivers on the card.

This it what it looks like to me too. I'm starting to see it in pictures of other Ryzen chips too.

It never went above 80c when I used it.

I initially thought thermal paste too, but I rubbed it pretty hard with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol, and none of it seemed to want to come off.