aero36

I don't usually switch off at the power strip, just the switch on the tower itself. When I reboot the time/date starts around the time I last turned off, and then corrects after a moment. I don't overclock, and I'll have to look up what Undervolt is. I did see an XMP setting in bios, I'll look into it and see if that helps. I probably should have checked the manual lol, I'll do that next.

Hey! Been having issues during boot up for awhile and haven’t been able to get it work properly. Whenever I turn on my computer from full off (so from the switch on the case being off, if I leave the switch on and turn off and on from the button this doesn’t happen) the GPU/mobo go off and on 3sh times before booting to this error screen: I press F1, go to BIOS, and then F10 out and I go to my PC. What I have tried so far: 1. I updated my BIOS 2. I replaced the CMOS battery Any ideas? Not sure if it makes a difference, but this light comes on as well:

The following is the monitor I have with worsening IPS glow (had since 2018 so way outside of warranty) and I’m thinking of finally pulling the trigger on a second monitor. LG 27UK850-W 27" 4K UHD IPS Monitor with HDR10 with USB Type-C Connectivity and FreeSync, White https://a.co/d/3OfrDx2 My thought process is this will be the side monitor and I’ll get a new one that is 4K and can do more than 60fps. My main planning holdup is that the DisplayPort cable would go to the new monitor: - Would the USB-C or HDMI cable connecting from the old to new monitor be at a lower resolution than the main? - As a screen extension there won’t be a material increase in load on my GPU?

The deleting windowsapp thing here worked for me https://www.windowscentral.com/how-delete-windowsapps-folder-windows-10 Edit: Also have to delete Wpsystem

So when it comes to the Xbox App, I'll have to format that SSD to make it work again?

So recently wiped my OS SSD and reinstalled windows but when I go to the uninstall it only shows newly downloaded apps. How do I get it to see what is already on the other SSD? When I tried to change the default location for games (apps more accurately) for the Xbox app it told me it'd have to delete everything else: Is there a better way of going about this? EXTRA THING: FFXIV keeps saying I don't have DirectX or at least the most up-to-date but my computer seems to think so. This is a game on a separate SSD as mentioned above. Is it unable to see DirectX because the PC views it as another devices app?

Damn wish I saw this earlier. Ended up putting the Win10 ISO on a thumbdrive and used command prompt to move files I wanted to keep to another SSD, wiping the OS SSD, and reinstalling the OS there.

Nvidia geforce wasn’t installing an update so I tried following this: https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4223/~/solving-nvidia-installer-issues I stopped the processes like it said, but I deleted the entire nvidia folder instead of just logging for the first, tried for the 2nd though it wouldn’t let me. Everything stopped working from there and my antivirus started to freak out. I shut off the computer by flipping the switch on the tower and now it tries to start a few times before going to where it gives options. I tried restoring to 7/24/2021 but it failed. What can I do to get this to work? Thank you! Edit: Reset does not work either. Tried this other sites thing to do an sfc /scnnow in the command prompt and got “Windows Resource Protection could not perform the requested operation.” edit 2: I’ve tried having it go through integrated graphics and I’m still getting the same BSOD on every start up Edit 3: tried a command I found somewhere I get the following, that I’m guessing means I need to get the win10 disk image on a flash drive:

Thank you! Sweet, thanks!

I am interested in upgrading my 2070 to a 3080 but I am unsure of how to evaluate impacts on heating and what other elements will cause stuff like bottlenecks. How do I assess if my current builds cooling will be sufficient for a 3080 and if my RAM/CPU are sufficient to not cause massive hindrances? I have 4 RAM slots with 2 filled, though because of how big my cooling is, I would only be able to put 1 more stick in (maybe, possibly won't fit between the two already in there). I don't think we know the power supply requirements for a 3080 yet, but just adding a 2080ti to my build keeps me well below the 750w so I think i am fine there. In general my goal is to run the upcoming generations games at 4k, 60, at as close to max settings as possible. My current build with RTX off, runs BFV at max settings 4k at about 50 fps, so a big thing for me would be getting RTX on. Thanks in advance! Build: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor $299.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $33.99 @ Newegg Motherboard Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $169.99 @ Walmart Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $104.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $228.89 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 970 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $169.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 860 Evo 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $299.99 @ Adorama Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card $719.99 @ Amazon Case NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $145.98 @ Newegg Monitor LG 27UK850-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor $449.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2623.79 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-05 12:12 EDT-0400

Oh awesome, so this for an AX router would be optimal? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6KJN8/?tag=lookgadgets02-20&th=1

Just avoid the Netgear router or is the Netgear modem fine? Or should I avoid Netgear in general?

Thank you! Any chance you know a way I can make sure it is compatible with the modem I am considering?

Hey everyone! Recently I got rental Modem/Router combo #2 from my ISP (RCN) and while it is more reliable than #1, it is way slower (showed like 800mbps on my desktop when the tech was here, he leaves, and it drops to 30 mbps), so I am breaking off from rental. Now my situation is more particular, as I need to run a MOCA to get my desktop hardwired, so I want to make sure this can all be set up as needed. Currently I have two of the following MOCAs, one on the Modem and the other on my desktop: https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0 The modem I am currently looking to purchase is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE?tag=fd251-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 I found it on a list of modems compatible with RCN, and was noted as more reliable than #2 on their list. (List for reference: https://freedom251.com/rcn-modems/) For routers I have roommates though only use WiFi and I’m upstairs from the setup and my consoles rely on them. So the idea is that I get a great router, but not one of those $300+ ones. A couple routers I have noted: https://www.amazon.com/Dual-band-Dual-core-AiProtection-Compatible-RT-AC86U/dp/B0752FD3XJ?tag=cnet-buy-button-20&ascsubtag=ag%3Acb718e0a-df9c-4dd1-8818-a7e8b3d9df63|vg%3A5e96be60-889a-11ea-9db3-7bedea1cb3a7|st%3Adtp&th=1 Not sure if this would work, but it’s on sale for $250: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Smart-Router-R9000/dp/B01M12RE4A?SubscriptionId=AKIAJV4KMHBMUG36SMIQ&tag=p00935-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01M12RE4A&ascsubtag=03Hb9tztFtcopOzu4HtMjNV Is there particular modem and/or router I should look into? Will this all work together? Are there any issues or questions I should ask my ISP (like if something only works in a certain way on my net, similar to how only certain modems work with RCN)? I’m willing to pay a bit extra for future proofing, I want these to last for several years +. Thank you! Edit: New current plan: (If anyone see's an issue, please let me know! I don't want to get bogged down by tech issues and poor net reliability!) Modem - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5TJGSE?tag=fd251-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6KJN8/?tag=lookgadgets02-20&th=1 MOCA (already have) - https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

Sorry getting back so late, thank you each of you! I took a closer look (well "hear") and its actually coming from towards the top, either the fan on top, or maybe the CPU cooler. I can't seem to get audio as that top fan overshadows the buzzing for my phone, though I can hear the buzzing but not the fan from where I sit

Hey so recently I have been hearing a crackling noise from my 2070 and I don't think I first heard it until after playing Vampyr for a bit and it was hitting 100% of the card (Max settings, 4k, V-sync, my tracker says its averaging 50 but often 60 fps, so maybe I am overdoing it?). Now even without something intensive it tends to start crackling eventually. From what I read in general that this isn't harmful, but I wanted to ask more specifically to a 2070: Can this become something problematic? Can it be indicative of major upcoming issues? I know 2070s had artifacting and crashing issues, can these be signs of that? I did see people making their own fixes for miscellaneous cards, from 960 through 1070, etc, though I am trying to keep the warranty intact and if there is an issue I'd want to get it fixed while it is in warranty. I've had the card since mid Dec and it was only recent that it started to occur. I think it may have started after the driver update preceding the recent Metro one. Thank you! Edit: In immediate hindsight I probably should've posted this in Troubleshooting

To note I still need to install the 970 Pro, and in hindsight I should've done a 2080 since I did not realize the 2070 could not do SLI. Maybe should've done the i7 8700K, but regardless of this (well partially regardless of the SLI error), I am still happy with it. I know I know, I could have saved $200 on a 1070 TI, but I figured that I am already spending so much I may as well bump up a bit. The Hitachi and 850 EVO were salvaged from my laptop with a dead GPU. Hit me with your best shot, the $2233.79 is fairly close to what I paid altogether with tax and warranties, please note that the monitor is included in that sum and is a large part. Also to note, I plan to play everything in 4k, so outside of Blizzard games and indies, I anticipate most 4k games to be between 30 and 60 FPS and so I am fine with 60hz, will probably go dual screen next year when I have a bigger desk. Edit: Just realized this part picker list doesn't have the new Huntsman keyboard I got for it, so add that without changing that estimated total of everything would be more accurate. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor $304.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $24.99 @ Newegg Motherboard Asus - PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $175.34 @ OutletPC Memory Corsair - Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $159.74 @ Amazon Storage Samsung - 850 EVO 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $107.89 @ OutletPC Storage Samsung - 970 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $169.99 @ Amazon Storage Hitachi - Travelstar 7K1000 1 TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card $513.88 @ OutletPC Case NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $69.99 @ B&H Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $59.99 @ B&H Monitor LG - 27UK850-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor $646.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2323.79 Mail-in rebates -$90.00 Total $2233.79 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-28 11:05 EST-0500

Thank you!

Sorry got distracted right after I made this post last night, these are my specs PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor $319.00 @ Walmart CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $27.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard Asus - PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $175.34 @ OutletPC Memory Corsair - Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $159.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung - 850 EVO 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $107.89 @ OutletPC Storage Hitachi - Travelstar 7K1000 1 TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card $549.89 @ OutletPC Case NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $64.99 @ Newegg Business Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $69.89 @ OutletPC Monitor LG - 27UK850-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor $549.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2074.87 Mail-in rebates -$50.00 Total $2024.87 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-19 09:35 EST-0500

I have an old surge protector that I am unsure of its stability, it sometimes gives a blue spark when i plug something in so I want to get something to replace that can also keep my computer running for a few minutes after I lose power. I saw this article, but I am unsure of what I should be looking for in what makes them reliable, safe, and not complete overkill. Any suggestions or advice on what to look for would be greatly appreciated, thanks! Link I originally saw: https://www.pcgamer.com/the-best-uninterruptible-power-supplies-ups-for-pc/ Sorry for delay, my specs: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor $319.00 @ Walmart CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $27.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard Asus - PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $175.34 @ OutletPC Memory Corsair - Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $159.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung - 850 EVO 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $107.89 @ OutletPC Storage Hitachi - Travelstar 7K1000 1 TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card $549.89 @ OutletPC Case NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $64.99 @ Newegg Business Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $69.89 @ OutletPC Monitor LG - 27UK850-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor $549.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $2074.87 Mail-in rebates -$50.00 Total $2024.87 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-19 09:36 EST-0500

Are you saying this may be possible?

Do you think upgrading would be worth it and just get rid of the 250 850 evo? Is it difficult to transfer from one ssd to the other? partic the OS

So essentially my MOBO has 2 ports when it can only use 1 at a time?

Hello everyone, I have an Asus Z390-A motherboard with a SATA SSD from my old laptop. I salvaged an SSD and an HDD from my laptop for this, my first build. The SSD is a 250gb Samsung 850 EVO. I am thinking of adding a 500gb Samsung 970 PRO for, but I see this compatibility error on PCPartpicker: The motherboard M.2 slot #2 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6.0 Gb/s port is disabled. I am wondering since it says one SATA port, but would that restriction only apply if it is also sata and not if the 970 Pro is NVMe/PCIE? Or maybe they need to both be PCIE to bypass this? Or if it is truly: Only 1 port can be used at given time, altogether. If that is the case, are there any workarounds? Thank you! Links of specific parts: MOBO https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCY7K9L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Potential new storage https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-PRO-512GB-MZ-V7P512BW/dp/B07C8Y31G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544760443&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+970+pro