Arleccino

Stems fit, but optical switches need a longer stem than you get on standard switches (I already tried swapping over some other reds I had) Hopefully they give us 'silent' version soon. Heck I would buy a bag of just silent stems if that became an option.

Do QMX clips do anything for upstroke click? I thought they only help with downstroke (like an o-ring). The switches currently are Gateron Optical Red.

Does anyone know of any brand or manufacturer that makes 'silent' optical switches? I recently received a kickstarter backed keyboard that I had planned to place silent brown switches into (upstroke clack annoys me). Well to my surprise, as I did not read properly before backing, the thing turned out to be an optical keyboard so I have hit a wall with my plans.

Not a custom PCB, but I recently received my kickstarter backed Kemove keyboard that has hot swappable optical switches.

Thanks. I think I have a better understanding of how the two concepts works now. Cache: I move all the project files I will be working on/with to this drive for the programs to quickly access (compared to the mechanical mass storage I otherwise keep eveything). Scratch: this is were I set the programs to store the temporary data files that they create as I work on the project. I use fast drive here to reduce the time taken as writes and references the in progree project data. This is, in essence, to be a sacrificial drive as the regular writes to it will shorten the life span copared to the other drives in the system.

I am a little lost as to what should be a scratch disk and what should be a cache disk. My new PC that I plan to use for Davinci Resolve and Blender is running a 2700X, Radeon VII and 32Gb ram (plans to double that in the near future). For my OS (Windows 10) and program installation (again only Davinci and Blender) I will use a 256Gb SSD. I have have 512Gb Nvme, and a 1Tb SSD but I am usure which to allocated as cache and which as the scratch disk. I also have a 4Tb HDD that will be used for archival/mass storage (using the DIYPerks tutorial video to mod the case for a one button auto back--up solution). Any advice for what drive should be used for what (and why) woul be grwatly aprreciated. ---- PS. Parts are all purchased, and outside of any return window. I have a gaming desk with a Ryzen 2600, 16Gb RAM, 5700XT that also runs to a 55" Samsung RU8000 TV for when I want to game. So the new build is purely for productivity.

The water cooling was because I have a Radeon VII that is going into the build, and future upgrade to the ryzen 3950. However it turns out once I put the waterblock on I can't fit a Radeon VII in a QBX. So now exploring alternative (leaning towards Fractal Design Define S Nano) or possibly design my own. After bit more research I found Noctua has confirmed plans for 14cm version of the A12x25 (yes I know it will be fair wait for a market release).

Hmm, I might give this shot. Will be pain to convert the QBX over and will probably need to lose my reservoir (was 92mm fan replacement res), but seeing as Noctua is planning on releasing an improved 140mm fan in the next couple of year it will provide an upgrade path.

Larger fans usually also mean lower pressure which can be a problem with radiators which is why I am uncertain which path to take. Local availability, and preference for quiet fans, means I am only looking between these two fan options.

So I have a Radeon VII coming in soon that will be getting watercooled and placed into a Cougar QBX for use as an editting PC with a ryzen 2700 overclocked or 2700x and 32Gb ram I am already planning to mod the case to fit a dual 240 radiators (XSPC TX240 and dual NH-A12x15 in exhaust on bottom), but I had the though that I could possibly replace one of the radiators with a 280mm. Would I be better with a dual NH-A12x25 on a 240 rad or dual NH-A14 on a 280 rad? I would prefer quieter, so dropping fan speed will be an option.

Thanks for the feed back and suggestions. This plan has been sent back to the drawing board while I tinker with a few other ideas.

Maybe look at the Silverstone ML06B

short: I want to water cool a pc that will regularly be turned 90 degrees. Long: With prospect of moving house in the next few months I am having to look at downsizing my current arrangement of furniture from a seperate bedroom and office/lounge room. I just don’t think I can expect to fit a king size bed and 1.8mx1.8m (6’) L-shaped desk into standard room along with a set of draws and some book shelves. I have returned to an old idea of building a Murphy bed with stay level desk and wall-mounting the monitors to the ‘underside’ of the bed. I recently worked out a way to retain my king-size mattress while still having a freestanding frame (joyous restriction of renting means no securing to the wall). As a further space saving measure I am toying with the idea of mounting 2 (gaming and streaming) computers either externally or internally (in the space between the mattress and base) with tubes passed through to the radiators outside(a bit like DIYPerks did on his custom desk). Precautions that are being planned involve no HDDs, separating PCIe devices from motherboard via riser cable, using a layer of foam as a buffer between components and the mounting surface to reduce vibration, gas struts to reduce impact when opening closing. Power switches will be used to completely cut the power when in bed mode, and fan cutouts at top and bottom to stimulate a air tunnel when in desk mode. Would it be a feasible build, or am I just asking for a guaranteed failure?

I have my 2600 overclocked to 4.2, on an Asrock Fatal1ty b450 mitx board using a Noctua NH-C14s in a Cougar QBX. One thing to note is that while the stock cooler is not garbage, AMD did basically drop the non-X coolers by a tier on the 2000 series. You can overclock with it still, but the X has the better cooler bundled with it if you were not thinking of using a 3rd part cooler already.

Samsung RU8000 series look quite good for gaming with 120hz freesync, just not the 45".