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Unkindness

Member
  • Content Count

    258
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About Unkindness

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dublin

System

  • CPU
    Intel i-7 8086K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • RAM
    G.Skill 32GB 3200MHz Sniper X
  • GPU
    ASUS ROG Strix RTX 2060
  • Case
    Fractual Design Define S
  • Storage
    Intel 760p 265GB SSD x2, Intel 760p 1TB SSD
  • PSU
    Aerocool Project 7 650W
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VG278QR
  • Cooling
    Noctua D-15S
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K120
  • Mouse
    Logitech M570
  • Sound
    ASUS Strix Soar
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. So I believe hence why I'm worried i cooked it!
  2. Maybe with all the DLSS being done off the GPU (my understanding) and in that super computer he was talking about, maybe you will only need 10GB of processing power to get the best out of it for gaming proposes
  3. Yeah I was learning as I went with the overclocking to be fair. The voltage is on a knife edge as I had it at the 1.4 and went for the 5ghz but was crashing like mad with BSODs. To be fair, there's probably a likelihood I did a bit of damage to it learning to overclock. It's also an engineering sample so, testing-wise, I've no idea what was done to it before I got it.
  4. I had it on auto volt in the bios and that was the voltage reported by Hardware Info. I had it at 5 while benchmarking it so once I seen the volts that high, I took the clock down to a 4.7 which was still pulling 1.4 volts. Finally put it at 4.5 overclock to get the reported volts to 1.3 and then I played with an undervolt 1.25. Any higher overclock or lower voltage, it crashes. Any advice is greatly received as I am very green at computer stuff like this
  5. It is and it runs like a champion but to paraphrase James Pumphrey, I just like Mo Powa, Babeh!
  6. Mine can't get near 5Ghz. Even cooking itself with 1.6 volts and heating my house, it struggles to get to a 4.8Ghz. That's why I left it at 4.5 and went with an undervolt. The Z- board was only bought coz I got a good deal at the time since this is my first system and just learned to overclock coz I could.
  7. The fastest games I play would be Dirt Rally and other racing games (don't really play shooters). I usually run the GeForce Optimized setting and get about 100-120 FPS so I'm not struggling too much at the moment. There may be an upgrade to new RTX and possibly go to 4k but not right away. This may be my last time with access to these CPUs so would I struggle, say in a year or so, running the new hardware and higher graphics with the 8086K?
  8. Hi all, My system currently runs a 8086K with a slight overclock to 4.5 Ghz and a slight undervolt of 1.25 volts. I feel I didn't do too well on the silicon lottery as I've only been able to push my CPU to 4.7 without instability nor can I undervolt lower for the same reason. I've recently been able to get access to some heavily discounted CPUs through a friend and I can get a 9900 i9 for about $250. While I don't have any issue with my current setup, I only have a limited time to buy so wondering would a get any decent size performance bump by going to a non-overclockable but undervolted 9900 over the 8086K? Mainly game and home office stuff but you know yourself, more power is always wanted! Cheers
  9. Basically its like having two computers. It has fixed the shutdown issues I was having but all of the content on my computer is being controlled by the OS on the problem drive. There is nothing on the new drive bar windows with no access to anything but its like day one with a new computer.
  10. Is it possible to move Windows 10 from one drive to another (the boot manager files and running software) or do i need to pull out that drive and reinstall windows? Tried to install windows again on the new drive but can't get it to work. Any help welcome
  11. I posted an issue months ago I was having running Assassins Creed Odyssey with massive shuttering and FPS issues during linked/chained attacks that corresponded to vibrations in the controller. I found the fix to be hard wiring the controller into a USB port with the charging cable. Putting it down as a software issue with the first game, it has cropped back up again this time playing DiRT 4 and the hard wiring has fixed this again (making me buy the battery packs a total waste). So I now think the issue may be the Bluetooth module in my Motherboard having a bit of a crisis running high-ish FPS since the GPU and CPU have not been hitting limits/throttles in either game while using GeForce optimized setting for both games. I know its a bit of a long shot finding someone with the same Motherboard and game taste as myself, but has anyone found similar issues or do i possibly have an issue with my board? Software for chipset and Bios is updated fairly regularly so I dunno if i have a physical issue with mine or not. Cheers
  12. Hi guys, a few mouths ago i was playing about with the storage setting and set my only drive at the time to Dynamic. Because my OS was on this, I believe it has partitioned the drive and causing issues with windows shutting down ever since meaning I have to hold down shift to Shutdown the system. I have recently fitted a new drive that is still at the Basic setting. So I am wondering, if I install Windows on the new drive with the Media Creation Tool, will it fix the shut down issue? Will I have any issue with the operating system on two drives or will the creation tool delete the old one? Cheers
  13. Game runs better with a hard wired joy pad. Go figure! That's a new one
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