theMorzan

I was in the same situation as you, having the secondary monitor being older while primary being the MAG274QRF-QD, and all I can say that I definitely do not regret buying the second MAG274QRF-QD. It's not just about having the same resolution (my old secondary monitor was also 1440p) but having the same colors and most importantly refresh rate makes things just a lot smoother.

As the title says. How is this not a thing? Given that one cannot simply walk into a store and feel the fabric, just knowing the percentages of the given blend is simply not enough. Saying "its American Apparel" is not much better either (hint: it's in the name). I did not care much in the past, but now that you guys have towels, selling a towel without providing GSM is really, really not a nice move.

If the superchats can be disabled, I see no excuse for them not to be at this point. What bothers me much more is the whole logic behind merch messages. Like, maybe consider I actually do not want to buy anything from your store? No matter how many positive reviews it might have? I already bought the few things I consider even remotely worth it and have no desire to buy anything else. Which means I basically have no way of sending a message (not that I have any illusions about the message getting a response let alone being read, given the things it would contain). If it was actually about not giving Google money, they would have implemented a tip system and let people send a buck or two. Instead, you have to spend at the very least 10 bucks (I did not do the actual math, just guessing that the cheapest thing plus shipping might be around that mark)

Now, I dunno if you meant this generally, or if it's aimed directly at my case, but if it's the second option then I would just like to point out that I am not going to be using 2080Ti at 1080p but 2080 at 1440p. If only that was true for us non US customers. Currently 9900KF is over $600 thats over 1/3 more than the 3700x. Thanks everyone for the input regarding the CPUs, I have decided to stick with the 3700x. Will swap out the PSU for Dark Power 11, it's cheaper and supposedly far quieter. Still not sure about the board, to be honest. Hero VI might be cheap but it is quite old.

Believe me, I have probably seen every Buldzoids video on this and related topics. And I would love to go for the Hero 7 but the prices here are so unreasonably high (120 USD more than Hero 6) that I really have hard time justifying the purchase to myself,. Also at that point, I might as well go for like MSI X570 GAMING EDGE or PRO CARBON (yeah, I really need that WiFi). Other than the Hero 6 for about $195 there is the X470 Taichi for $225 or the B450 Carbon for $175. So I went for the middle option.

I am currently leaning towards the not worth it option. I could make the difference even greater by going for a cheaper board but, I don't really need to and the the Hero VI still seems like a great deal to me, even if it's "old".

First of all, I know that the prices in these tables may seem a little bit off to some people but they are the prices we get here (converted to USD, after tax). So, does the difference seem justifiable, given that the system is going to be used for gaming only? I am asking mainly because after watching like 15 different videos, I am still not sure. Leaning towards the AMD option but would really appreciate some other opinions. Thanks in advance. AMD CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($390.00) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: Asus - CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($195.00) Memory: Patriot - Viper RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P600S ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Ultra Titanium 650 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($197.00) Monitor: Acer - XF270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $782.00 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-18 14:09 EDT-0400 Intel CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($479.00) CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($249.00) Memory: Patriot - Viper RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P600S ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Ultra Titanium 650 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($197.00) Monitor: Acer - XF270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $925.00 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-18 14:11 EDT-0400

Hi everyone, so I have decided to upgrade my Xeon 1231v3 to Ryzen 3700x (I do already own RTX 2080 Gaming X Trio, Dark Rock Pro 4, 650W PSU, SSD and 1440p 144Hz display so I am just buying the CPU/MB/RAM). I was ready to purchase the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC by MSI but then all the "news" with MSI BIOS issues and the small 16MB ROM turned up, so now I am not sure what to do. I could still go with the Carbon, or I could wait for a Carbon MAX (but then again, no such thing was announced yet so who knows if its even coming). I don't really want to go to a lower tier board like Tomahawk (which does have the MAX revision announced) because I would like to keep the Intel LAN and Wi-Fi. Plus the audio on those lower end B450 boards is supposedly crappy as well. With this, my only other options for similar price seem to be Taichi X370 or Asus Crosshair Hero VI (I do know that Taichi does not have BIOS flashback but thats not an issue as the store will do it for me). Do you guys think it's viable option to go with one of these X370 boards?

Ok, but is that like common thing to run these Ballistix 3000MHz 15-16-16 at 3600? Another option I found is grabbing these https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-Xcalibur-PC4-32000-TF6D416G4000HC18EDC01/dp/B07G27W7G4 (elsewhere obviously, I just wanted to give a link in english). And running them at lower frequency and timings? I suppose that should be doable as well?

I assume that you mean the BLS2K8G4D30AESBK ? They seem very reasonably priced.

Location: Unfortunately, Czech Republic, where the price difference between R7 3700x and i7 9700k is more than 100 USD which might help explain my choice a little bit. Purpose: Gaming (no streaming, no video editing, no photo editing or I dunno whatever else). I want to upgrade to something that can run AC Odyssey in 1440p ultra above 60 FPS at least 95% of the time (which it does not with the current CPU). In terms of budget, I would rather not spend more than what 3700X with the AC Carbon and 3600MHz CL16 RAM would cost (and the i7 9700k with a Z390 board and a cooler would definitely go for way more, at least around here). The question is, do I even need those? Or would I be better of just saving a few bucks, getting for example R5 3600 now and upgrading to something like R5 4600 later? Current Build: CPU - Xeon 1231v3 (with Scythe Kotetsu) GPU - MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming Trio MB - Asus Vanguard B85 RAM - Crucial Ballistix 4*4GB DDR3 @ 1600 MHz SSD - Crucial MX500 500GB PSU - Evga Supernova G2 650W Display - Acer XF270HUA Upgrade: CPU - Ryzen R7 3700x (or Ryzen R5 3600?) MB - MSI B450 Gaming PRO Carbon AC (or MSI B450 Tomahawk?) RAM - Honestly, no idea. Is 3200MHz CL16 good enough? is it possible to OC that kind of RAM to 3600MHz? Or should I get the 3600MHz right away?

Is there something like reasonable price increase per cooler tier? Because around here, the difference between ASUS Dual and Strix is about 200 euros in case of RTX 2080. Now I can clearly see that the Strix cooler is way better than the Dual one and if the difference was like 50 euros, I would not even ask, but like this, I am just not sure if it can be justified. Thanks

The one I need to swap is DP, but I should have another one stashed somewhere that I got with the display. I don't think the display has more than one DP but the GPU should have three so I can try swapping to a different one. And I can connect like... PS4 to it as well and try to change input to it when it happens. That would be via HDMI but if the issues are with the display I am guessing it should not matter which port it is. Still, with how random the issues are (like once in a couple weeks), this is going to take some time...

Hi, I home some of you will be able to help me here. I have EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 (still under warranty) and two displays - curved Samsung 23 that is connected via DP (also under warranty) and an older LG IPS is connected via HDMI (and I can't connect this one via DP since it does not have one, in case somebody was going to suggest this). Lately, I tend to get purple/yellow/etc. lines across the Samsung screen. There are what appears to be two types of issues. Sometimes it just a few lines here and there, mostly at the bottom of the screen. The lines tend to slowly disappear one by one until they are completely gone. The display's overlay gets covered by these as well. Other times it's exactly the whole right side of the screen, It's covered by them completely from top to bottom and it disappears all at once. The display's overlay can be displayed over this without any issue. It only happens for a few minutes or so and then it's gone. It's only been happening with the Samsung screen, the other one is OK. So I figure there might be an issue with the screen, GPU or maybe even both? But if it's just one of them, what do you think has higher chance of being at fault here so I can RMA that thing first? Or should I just do both of them at once? Side note: I am kinda worried about what would happen if the GPU was faulty since 1080Ti are no longer in stock. Thanks