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Magus

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  1. Yeah I guess the conclusion was pretty quick to come to, huh. Me asking was just a quick check-in about it, more or less.
  2. I suppose my concern was whether or not it'd be significant at all. I am aware that it wouldn't be anything breaking or something. A 1-3% difference between the two options I wouldn't mind, but when you start pushing up to a 10% difference and beyond I start to get irked, being the optimization obsessed type that I am. But I know it's hard for much anyone to have those figures off the top of their heads aside from those that toy with this stuff all the time.
  3. Absolutely the most cost-effective, and removes the hassle of reselling the old RAM as well. Though I was just concerned about the whole "harder on the memory controller" aspect far as that goes. Would aesthetically look better with all the DIMMS filled as well, though that's just an afterthought.
  4. So, I'm planning to do a Memory upgrade soon. I'm currently rocking 16GB of 3200Mhz Corsair RGB Pro CAS 16. The way I see it, there's three ways I could go about this. A. Just buy two more sticks of RGB Pro straight-up. My motherboard (ASUS Z370-E) had two additional DIMM slots I am currently not using. B. Replace my existing ram with 2x16, leaving the extra two DIMM slots empty. C. Go all-in and select 32GB worth of memory from the list of DDR4 3200Mhz memory with a CAS latency of under 14. Oddly enough, much as Trident-Z Royal appeals to me, by what I can find it's actually the Team Nighthawk that has the best timings, and it's cheaper... I guess I'd just wonder if it really attains those clocks stable for everyone and how good their reputation is. Although, they make no 16GB sticks it seems, and I figure it'd be ideal to go 2x16 CAS14 if I'm gonna splurge. Anyway, from what I've read and benchmarks I've watched, it appears my choice is most likely going to be between A and B really. But that leaves the question of if I should fill all my DIMM slots or try to keep it to two sticks. I've just heard about filling all the DIMM slots being harder on the memory controller or something of that nature. In that case I'm thinking maybe it's best to just swap-out these two 8GB sticks I already have for two 16GB sticks and reselling the 8GB sticks on eBay for some money back. I figure the money I'd spend getting CAS 14 memory would be better spent towards upgradining from my 1060 6GB to something like a 1660Ti, 2060, or 2070, delidding my processor and applying conductonaut + kryonaut, and upgradining from a 240mm to a 360mm AIO, all of which I plan to do as I do an annual upgrade spree. For anyone who's gonna bring-up how RAM above 16GB is pointless for gaming: 1. I do use my computer for more than gaming - productivity software (editors & encoders) as well as occasionally doubling my computer as a server. 2. You'd be surprise how much RAM some games manage to gobble-up sometimes. It's not as if we're still in the era where games are limited to 4GB of memory due to being 32-bit. I can find my memory being almost entirely used sometimes, especially in primarily CPU-intensive games like VRChat (especially when crashers are absurd avatars are present). Thanks.
  5. I think there's actually just a f*ckton of brands and we can't be assed to think of them all, but I'll run comparisons. Think I may end-up just sticking to what I said though, I figure in the end it's not as if it's gonna give me a huge difference in how far I can OC, more like it'll just ensure I can run at 5Ghz solid without thermal throttling or instability. It's still an 8700k (and a post 8086k one at that - the release of the 8086k skimmed all the top bins of the 8700k out of the market, which probably means I don't have an ideal bin / silicon lottery) so I doubt I'll get much further than 5Ghz regardless of all else. As things stand I can't clock past a multiplier of 48 without crashing, and experience thermal throttling even at that when under load, so I just want to get that under control and just hope that I can reach a multiplier of 50 and stable without thermal throttling once I get this done. I've never messed with the likes of voltages and such but perhaps the time I start looking into that is finally around the corner.
  6. Looking at the charts, I mean it's pretty much what you'd expect - the ones that perform better are also louder. Higher airflow without changing the size of the fans requires higher RPM and is thus noisier. Period. I mean sure there's variance depending on the fan design (how the fins are designed etc) but I won't go into all that stuff since that's where you start introducing too many variables to have a sensible discussion anymore and I'm sure every company thinks they have the best and most innovative design for whatever reasons. I'd be willing to bet that the included fans are the main thing that make the differences in these charts. Stuff like radiator thickness as well, but I feel like that doesn't vary nearly as much, most rads I've ever seen nowadays are all in the same general ballpark + or - a few millimeters. If they're too thin they don't have enough surface area to get rid of heat and if they're too thick air can't get through them without really high-airflow (thus noisy) fans, possibly on both sides. Not to mention cleaning them becomes more of a b*tch to deal with. He doesn't even have DeepCool on his chart, and I have to say that their white cooler does match my case and it'd suck to get a black one instead. Maybe the thing to do is to just upgrade to a 360mm version of the same one and put some higher powered fans on it is what I'm thinking. I'm sure that delidding and replacing the stock compound (I never even replaced the stock compound the AIO came with) is going to make a much bigger difference than doing anything to the AIO itself anyway. But I still will upgrade to a 360 now that it's price came down.
  7. Yeah I think it's simpler if I just do a linear upgrade. I got the DeepCool EX White for aesthetic reasons (white case and components), so I may just do a linear upgrade to the 360mm variant in that case and maybe put some different fans on - and maybe do a 6-fan setup (fans on both sides of the radiator). That said I need to check to see if I have enough connetors for that many fans as my system already has a total of 6 fans including the AIO's fans (4 lone case fans).
  8. I suppose that's up for speculation and debate though. It could be something about the AIO itself that's better too. Otherwise I'd be best off just getting any 360mm AIO and just slapping higher-airflow fans on it. Which, may be the truth of the matter I figure. I think at that point I'd just want to know what cooler has the best pump that moves the most fluid at the fastest rate, and the thickest radiator (waterflow-to-radiator-thickness-ratio would be considered) and then slap high-airflow fans on it. Ideally, I would get a thicker-than-average 360mm radiator with high waterflow and slap high-performance fans on both sides of the radiator (6 fans) and essentially make a thruster out of it. I suppose getting a straight answer is gonna be hard, especially once you throw in the possibility of changing the fans. I suppose the most logical thing for me to do may be to just get whatever 360mm cooler best suits my case aesthetically, checking reviews to ensure it isn't somehow broken garbage and look at datasheets to ensure that it's at least not a low-scoring AIO, and then put high-airflow fans on it. And if it comes to that - I got the DeepCool EX White for aesthetic reasons (white case and components), so I may just do a linear upgrade to the 360mm variant in that case.
  9. You forgot DeepCool, which a 240mm version of is what I have currently. They have the "Captain" and "Castle" series. http://www.gamerstorm.com/product/CPULIQUIDCOOLER/2018-10/1286_9932.shtml http://www.gamerstorm.com/product/CPULIQUIDCOOLER/2017-09/1286_6993.shtml The 360MM captain would be a direct upgrade from the 240 Captain EX White I currently have. And CoolerMaster has their 360mm MasterLiquids: http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-ml360-rgb-tr4/ http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/masterliquid-ml360r-rgb/ And AlphaCool has stuff too, although they tend to look more technical? https://www.alphacool.com/alphacool-nexxxos-v.2-radiatoren I did note in my post that while I do value performance over silence, I do still want to avoid my PC sounding like a running chainsaw. So loud relative to the average is okay, but I'm not gonna go into total nutso territory with it. Yeah that article is actually what I was thinking of when I mentioned GN, but it's just older now which is why I wanted a more current one. What always surprised me about that though is that the 280mm EVGA outperformed even 360mm rads. I have no issue getting a 280mm AIO if it performs better than a 360mm - have other reviews had the same results with it?
  10. I figured I'd just pop this question in the forum rather than looking through articles. Articles aren't giving datasheets to back-up their opinions and articles are often bought and paid for. I'd believe it from GamersNexus or something like that, but I know big places like TomsHardware are just paid reviews nowadays. So, I'm looking for the best performing AIO I can find. Size and noise level being no factor (well, 360mm being the limit because my case literally can't fit anything bigger... is there anything bigger than 360mm in the mainstream?). This is because very soon I plan on going all-out and finally delidding my 8700k and apply either kryonaut or conductonaut (still kinda on the fence on that one - I'm considering using Conductonaut under the IHS while using Kryonaut between the IHS and coldplate. For safety/spillage reasons and because I don't like the staining liquid metal inevitably does - especially if I end up with an AIO that has a naked copper coldplate, like my current one does. My understanding is that conductonaut makes the most difference between the die and IHS and much less difference anywhere else, so this is probably the format I'm going to choose. Die >> Conductonaut >> IHS >> Kryonaut >> Coldplate). May as well get an overkill cooler as well I figure. I may get the Rockit naked copper IHS replacement as well. Noise level isn't really a consideration. I wear headphones all the time and I'm used to noisiness anyway as I do encode jobs and other CPU-intensive stuff all the time. So at this point I'm rather desensitised to fan noise. Of course that's to an extent, I'm not intending to put high-power server fans / "blowimatrons" in my system. But I'm saying that some above-average noise really isn't going to bother me. I've always been a function-over-form type of person and I know that high-performance hardware tends to also be loud. Thanks.
  11. ... I do find it rather odd that Western Digital doesn't recognize the serial number of this drive though. According to them it's an invalid serial. Well, I dunno what to make of it aside from copy 10TB of crap to it (copy my archive over and over) until it fills the entire drive and then test the files, in order to verify that this is truly a fully functioning 10TB drive. If it works it works and if it doesn't it's a fake. That said if it was a fake it'd be a surprisingly good one considering they even went out of the way to mimic the PWDIS feature.
  12. Everything appears to be working. I'm running at a stable 115MB/s or so without much variance or ocillation. I'm going to suppose this is a pretty standard HDD write speed, especially when you're doing a mass copy operation of videos from one USB hard drive to another. I'd probably get the fastest possible speeds if I were copying files from my M.2 over to it via direct SATA I imagine. Edit: When copying to it from my M.2 drive, it has averages of 235MB/s and peaks of over 250MB/s - I'm guessing it was limited by the slower speed of my other (LaCie) drive. The speed of this new 3.5" internal-purpose WD drive just completely outclasses my old external hard drive. I did put it on a foam pad I got from some packaging in order to help dampen any vibration, but that's probably just me overthinking as usual: https://i.imgur.com/layd77o.jpg But yeah, above all else the speeds aren't jumping around a lot or anything, which to me is a good sign. I'm glad all of this worked out in the end.
  13. A lot of my threads are just nonsense or more like just comment history than threads. I do it for privacy reasons, I'm just one of those types who doesn't want to leave a trail and usually deletes anything he isn't actively using. Eventually even the account will be deleted to migrate to a new one. I know that's not great from a community perspective but over time people leave bits of themselves laying around and that can get you in trouble on the internet. But this was actually a pretty informative thread, so I'll leave it up.
  14. @AbydosOne @myselfolli @TempestCatto @Androkiller @ckinfos Alright, we have progress! The external USB housing seems to have remedied the issue of the HDD not even powering on. It was indeed the "PWDIS" issue that @AbydosOne pointed out: So thanks for that! If not for this then I may have concluded the drive was bricked. This is why I made the thread though, it's not good to be assumptuous and these are bleeding-edge new enterprise drives so I figured there may be things I do not know. Marked as the thread solution. I typically delete my threads after I'm done with them but given how this may be useful to people using these new high-capacity enterprise drives I'm gonna leave this one up. To anyone else who has this issue in the future - you have three options: 1. Instead of using a SATA power cable directly, use a molex-to-SATA method to power the drive. 2. Cover the pin that regulates the PWDIS feature - video here. 3. Use a SATA to USB enclosure, which is what I did. The TL;DR is either cover the pin or use a conversion method to power it because no converters seem to be built to consider PWDIS. It's quite nice knowing I got an enterprise-class 10TB helium drive for what it costs to buy a WD Black 8TB. Thanks!
  15. You have to watch the WAN show to know what I was talking about. Linus brought up that they're going to have a new segment of TechLinked that airs on Tuesdays and Thursdays (TechLinked is currently a Mon+Wed+Fri show) where they go deeper into a single tech story than TechLinked's surface-level explanations ever would. Linus proposed they name it "Our 8 Bits". The name isn't to replace the name of the channel, just be the name of the segment. Either way, TechLinked will become a channel that makes videos every day of the work week at that point.
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