Kywim

I did that after posting this and it helped, now it can drop to 0.8v and stays at 40c at idle. Ran a cinebench benchmark just now and my voltages reached 1.31v with 74c. I think that's a bit hot, especially for a Dark Rock Pro 4, but I could be wrong. Core clock was 4100mhz I think. EDIT: Looked at a video and the temperatures are close at 100% usage with a similar cooler, except that his CPU goes to "only" 3.9ghz, mine does 4.15 in such situations, which might explain the extra heat.

Hello! My fresh build with a Ryzen 2700x CPU and a Asus Strix X470-F Gaming motherboard seems to run most of the time at 1.4v vcore. I think that's a bit high, and my temperatures could be lower (70-75°c+ cinebench w/ Dark Rock Pro 4!). My questions are: Is this too high? Is anything wrong? If that's too high, should I reduce the vcore manually in the bios? What would a more correct vcore be? Thank you for your help!

Like I said, removing the side panel dropped my temps by 4/5°c, which is why I'm pretty sure it's an airflow issue. 78°c is a bit high to my liking, but I know it's not bad. I'll try to change my fan configuration tomorrow and do some testing. If it doesn't improve, I'll just live with it. Won't that choke my CPU Cooler's airflow? (Might seem like a dumb question, but with that change my CPU cooler won't have an intake fan facing it directly)

Hello! I noticed that in my new case (Fractal Design Define R6), my GPU runs hotter by 3 to 5°c. (It runs at 77/78°c instead of 73°c). (It's a EVGA 1080Ti FTW3) I'd like to improve my airflow to lower my temperatures. This is my current airflow (pardon my paint skills. Fans are in orange, gpu in blue). Tomorrow I'll try to remove every unused HDD cages and put my SSD & HDD at the top so they aren't in the way of the airflow. Currently, my HDD/SSD sit in the way of the 1st intake fan and I have unused HDD cages everywhere in the case. If that doesn't help, I'll have to change my fan configuration. I'd like to avoid buying new fans if possible, but I can buy some if needed. Here are my 2 ideas: Idea #1: Put the 2nd intake fan lower, but leave the 1st where it is. My fans will be split and not contiguous anymore. Is this a problem? Idea #2: Lower both fans, but I think that this might choke my CPU fan? What would you do in my situation? I can always buy another 240mm fan and put it at the bottom, but I fear that with 3 intake and 1 exhaust I might have a problem (too much positive pressure), but I think that this problem can be solved by lowering the speed of the 3 intake fans (by maybe 20-25%, which can be done using Fractal's fan hub). Thank you for your help!

Hey, Today I checked the debug leds during the POST. I felt like the POST was a bit shorter, but here's what happened: +- 3s of DRAM (Yellow) +- 1s of CPU (Red) +- 5s of DRAM (Yellow) +- 1s of VGA (White) Boot The led went back to DRAM after trying to go to CPU. I don't know if that's normal. My computer did not look like it restarted to I guess it's normal?

I'm currently trying to use DOCP 3000mhz profile. I couldn't find it originally, it was hidden, but now I enabled it. Let's see if it changes something. My old profile was DOCP 3600mhz but downclocked to 3000mhz, so it has loose timings (CL18) with low frequency. Not it went down to CL15 I think. EDIT: Wording

If it has incorrect timings (too loose) can this affect boot speed? For the first few days I decided that I won't mess too much with the settings so I could enjoy my new setup and play some games with my friends. This weekend I'll probably tweak the RAM timings for Ryzen using the Ryzen DRAM calculator, that's about it. Can you give me some examples of settings that affect POST time? I couldn't find any obvious one except the BIOS splashscreen delay (which I reduced to 1s instead of 3 by default) and Fastboot (enabled by default).

Oh, I thought that by the release BIOS you meant the very first version, sorry!

The only settings I changed in the BIOS is the RAM speed. I selected the default preset for 3000mhz. My RAM should be capable of 3600mhz so I don't see why it would be an issue. No CPU settings have been changed whatsoever but if the problem persists I'll try to reset the settings.

It's not the release BIOS, https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X470-F-GAMING/HelpDesk_BIOS/. There is only one update to do. I guess I'll try that if all else fails. Tomorrow I plan to try it with no USB devices, if that fails, I'll try without the HDD/SSD. I'll also try to look at the debug led on my mobo while it's posting. It might give me some useful information.

Hello! My new build is up and running since wednesday, but it takes a long time to post. +- 20s of no signal +- 5s of Mobo splashscreen +- 5s of windows loading (circle w/ mobo logo) +- 20s of more windows loading (just the circle on black background) This is pretty annoying, especially the 20s of no signal when I turn my computer on. How can I fix this? Everything is stock in BIOS except the RAM that I set to 3000mhz (it's a 3600mhz RAM anyway) Here is the specs: CPU: Ryzen 2700x Mobo: Asus Strix x470-F Gaming RAM: HyperX 2*8GB 3600mhz RAM (B-Die) GPU: EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Boot drive: Samsung 850 Evo 500gb Secondary HDD: 2To Seagate Barracuda Some people recommended me to do a BIOS update, would that help? I'm really anxious about doing one, so I'll do it only if it guarantees a result. My BIOS version is 4018, latest is 4024. Thank you for your help!

I checked and it still isn’t perfectly level, but I guess that if everything is mounted correctly that’s normal?

Okay, I don’t move my system around at all usually (maybe once or twice a year) and the only time where I move my case is when cleaning my desk so I’ll be okay I guess

Does this look better? That’s the best I can do. I double checked that everything was correctly in place. Is this fine?

Backplate is already mounted with AM4, and cooler is screwed in correctly, yes, but I’m going to double check this morning.

Hello! After installing my Dark Rock Pro 4 I noticed that it wasn’t perfectly level. It is slightly crooked, I think it’s just a few millimeters off axis. Is it normal for this kind of cooler? Should I try to fix it? Can this harm my motherboard or cpu? Thank you

I haven't tried that, and to be honest I don't see why it'd help. I never touched my BIOS in 4 years I've had this system. Can you explain me why this would help? ?

Can a dead SSD provoke a boot failure like that? I'd guess that it would give me a "no boot drive" detected error message instead of that.. The SSD was fine even the day before that happened. I played all weekend, did some updates, downloaded stuff, everything was fine. Are you really sure?

Hello See my old thread for detailed info on my past situation: (This is the last thread I'll make about my situation) So, today I came back from school and my computer refused to boot again (Turned on but no post/boot). Okay, booted a few times until I could finally reach the "Boot failure detected" screen. I clicked "Apply optimized defaults then reboot". It rebooted, I went into Windows just fine, but I decided that I should shut it down to further troubleshoot the situation.. oh boy was I wrong. Ever since shutting it down, I can't get it to boot. In order, I tried: CMOS clear With/Without secondary HDD plugged in Using another PSU known to be fine + Removing GPU, booting only with the minimum devices (Only boot drive plugged in) All 3 did not do anything to help me. I was stuck with a computer that turned on but wouldn't boot/post. So, I tried one last thing: removing one stick of RAM. Ta-da! It booted, shut down again, rebooted by itself, beeped twice (Memory Parity Check Failed) and prompted with with a similar "Boot Failure Detected" screen. But I didn't attempt to get into windows, I had to do something else so I just shut the computer down and sighed in relief. When I came back, I tried booting it again and it failed to boot, same as before. So, I tried to troubleshoot it more in depth: I tried both sticks of ram in both slots 2 and 4 of my motherboard. Here's what happened: Stick 1 in Slot 2: Got into the bios, clicked on "Apply defaults then boot", windows started loading and the computer crashed after 2 seconds of loading (it shut down). It rebooted by itself, no beeps this time and just turned on without booting like last time. Stick 1 in Slot 4: Nothing (turns on but no boot/post) Stick 2 in Slot 2: Nothing (turns on but no boot/post) Stick 2 in Slot 4: Exact same situation as Stick 1 in Slot 2. So, I think I can safely rule out each of theses components as being the culprit: PSU GPU RAM HDD SSD (I didn't check it, but SMART data were fine even the day before and it had no bad blocks. I tested it yesterday after my last boot issue) Windows (Since the issue occurs even before booting) Logically, only the motherboard and CPU are left. What do you think? Is my motherboard dead? I need another opinion on this before ordering my new parts. Thank you very much and have a nice day.

Hello, I'm in immediate need for help. My computer now refuses to boot. I decided to keep the "optimized defaults" when I managed to get it to boot earlier, but now it simply refuses to boot. All I have is a black screen, no signal. All the fans spins, my GPU's RGB lights up, but there is nothing both from the onboard GPU and my 1080ti's hdmi output. The reset button doesn't work, the only thing that works is a long press on the power button to shut the thing down How can I diagnose what's wrong? I had trouble booting for the last 2 days but when I managed to boot my computer was always fine and ran flawlessly. I suspect that the motherboard is dead (I've ruled the psu & gpu out since they are brand new). How can I confirm it?

Bump. I really need help on this. I don't even know where to start troubleshooting if the system is fine when it boots!

I am not. It has always been running at 1.2v, but the motherboard's default setting is 1.44v because Gigabyte thought it was a good idea, so the first thing I always do when my BIOS settings are reset to default is changing the vcore back to 1.2v.

Hello! Currently, my computer is giving me some trouble. On Friday, my computer crashed while I was away. I've came back to it rebooting. Nothing in the event log to help me except the critical error "The last shutdown was unexpected". My computer was fine for the rest of the day. On Saturday, when I started it, it shut down nearly immediatly (5 seconds after pressing the button), restarted and prompted me with a message. https://imgur.com/gallery/HegDaeB "The system has experienced a boot failure". I went into the BIOS, changed my VCore back to where it should be (1.2V instead of the default 1.44 for a 4790k) and booted into windows fine. I even ran some benchmarks which you can find below. Today, when I started it, it seemed fine, except I had no video output. Nothing, just a black screen. I wasn't even booting into windows! (No sound and pressing the power button once to shut the computer down didn't do anything). So I pressed the reset button, restarted it, and it did the same thing as Saturday: Boot, shutdown, Reboot, "Boot failure detected". Same thing as yesterday, I went into the BIOS, changed my settings back to where I want them and booted into windows fine. Benchmarks I ran: Superposition : Score is fine (5.78k on 1080p extreme) Cinebench CPU: Score is fine (580) FurMark + Prime95 for 10 minutes : Fine. HWInfo64 Logs available here My setup: CPU: i7 4790k MOBO: Gigabyte Z97x UD3H RAM: Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz RAM GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 (Brand new) PSU: EVGA G1+ 1000W PSU (Brand new, came back from a RMA'd G1+ 850w, so it was tested by EVGA before being sent to me) Boot drive: Samsung 850 Evo 500gb SSD Secondary drive: Seagate barracuda 2TO I don't know what to do. Windows doesn't help me locate the issue (no logs/dump/bsod), my computer is fine when I manage to get it into windows (played all day yesterday without any trouble). The only thing that I can think of is the motherboard that's dying. My HDD is also a bit old and makes weird noises but I don't think a bad HDD can cause this? It's fine and I can access every file in windows. How can I find out for sure what's wrong? Thank you.

I doubt it's a fan, it's probably just coil whine. I asked this question because I don't know too much about coil whine in monitors, so I didn't know if it was normal or not for monitors:p

Hey! My XB271HU has a small coil whine (buzzing) sound. It's not audible unless you put your ears very close to the monitor (on the area where the GSync processor is), but I'm wondering if it's in any way dangerous? I don't care at all about the noise, it's inaudible when further than 30 cm, but I'd like to know if it's okay/dangerous. I know coil whine isn't dangerous for GPU/PSUs, is it also the case for monitors? Thanks