bololabich

That's no go. It would do exactly the same as the crap I tried - I'd endup with TVs EDID and stereo only sound But I've found this thing and as long as HDCP doesn't get broken it could solve my problem (3D Blu-Rays only play in PowerDVD and it will refuse to run without HDCP) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000783850412.html I'll try it in few days when it arrives but I'm still open for other suggestions in case it doesn't work.

I've just upgraded my receiver to pioneer VSX-519 and the way it handles HDMI is to put it simply a disaster, only device that works fine with not a single issue is x360. The HDMI signal needs to go through the device, completely breaking it, on OSSC I can only get up to 480p - anything higher the picture gets corrupted and when I turn on 3D on my PC the picture goes black (TV gets the signal, just doesn't show anything). So I've been thinking perhaps a splitter could fix my issues? I'd just connect it between the receiver and HDMI hubs and then the other HDMI to my TV but then I got some cheapo switch and it didn't really work that well as it would either use TVs EDID and I'd get stereo only or the receivers EDID giving me black screen :(. Are there any smarter splitters to solve my problem? Perhaps I could use some old GPU as an extra HDMI output just for audio only and the main card as the video only (cheapo RX 570 mining with single DVI :P)? That would solve the problem with 3D on PC and frankly I don't care too much about other devices - I can just use SPDIF for the rest as long as I get to make 3D + 5.1 working on PC. PS Trial and error won't be a problem I can just order bunch of devices and return them later.

Yeah, I saw the reviews of BitFenix and actually ordered one, I mean for 10€, 30db at 90CFM and much more quiet at lower RPMs (tested by sb on yt) they are an awesome deal but then as mentioned here before static pressure seams to be even more important for tight, closed spaces like the PSU so I'm just about giving up as I doubt it's possible to find anything good enough and silent at the same time

Soldering a cable is nothing all that hard or anything... but still the pressure is kind of a problem and I've honestly start to doubt it's actually possible to find any fan that would have same CFM, same pressure and to quieter. Then again, they must have made it with some margins in case it runs in some harsh conditions but on the other hand there is nothin to monitor it and check how it runsuntill it's way too hot and overhit protection shoots it down. 140 should actually fit, people have already done it. Honestly.. is onth they actually made any fan curve then there would not be any problem but nope.. they have made it run 100% at around 200W and up.

yeah that is the concern I had to begin with Thanks for guidance

but still I'd need to sell off this one.. nowadays 2nd hand 1000W of comparable quality go for 40-50€....

Welp.. but nowadays no one uses high power PSUs as all the components now take next to nothing power so selling it off for any decent money might be hard and then I'd still need to buy another one to replace it

You mean there are some other metrics other than CFM that come into play? If I were to get that 30€ NF-A14 iPPC 2000 it has the same RPM, a bit heigher CFM and 12db lower sound level. As for the controller it seams to be running 100% all the time after all so that shouldn't matter too much then I guess.

used ones cost like 2€ less than brand new lol (checked already)

NF-A14 industrial would be and overkill I'd feel safe with something about 90CFM to match the stock one. I've tried measuring dbs with my prone ind it's actually slightly above 40db so it is actually possible it's blasting 100% all the time wow that's a poor design on their side Realistically - sure I'm not using this PSU 100% to be honest it would probably be fine even without any fan at all as my current setup is circa 400W but then if I put a weak and quiet fan in, forget about it and try to use this PSU to its full potential in the future I might have an unplesent surprise edit: Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 looks to be the the best match just perhaps a little bit too expensive but if I can get a discounted oen then it's perfect

But then I'm hoping if I get something like that 100CFM be quite then it's 36db at 100% power but it's not like it will fun at full power all the time and then - goino of off some data I found on comparable fans - at 800RPM it should be about 50CFM, 20-22 db - not too bad just a tiny bit worse than that NF A12 but still having the performance if needed.

But this one works perfectly fine and has all the certificates so why bother downgrading it to some brand new 500W? I've had it for ages now I see I did not think about the pressure but still ~60CFM isn't too little to replace 100CFM? I'm not worried about the power it takes - I'm more worred if the PSU has a table saying: at 50C run fan at 10v, at 60C run it at 12v etc... if it's completely dynamic then it should be fine

Update: I've looked up the fan interfaces and 3pin fan will be fine as 3rd pin is just the RPM feedback so the only concern is how the PSU sets the speed. Will it work fine with a fan of completely different power characteristic?

I don't think 2-wire fans work that way. Even if you connect a 2 wire fan to your motherboard you still have control over its speed no problem it's just less precise as it's regulated using power current plus I think if it was going full power it would be much louder Putting 12cm into 14cm sounds kinda pointless as 14cm should always be better choice plus it's like 40% weaker than the stock cooler - I wouldn't call it safe at all not to mention it's overpriced and not at all that great comparing with other lesser known but still good brands. I was thinking some sytche but they are impossible to get, so second best I found - though sadly a bit louder, would be Pure Wings 2 140mm high-speed - not ideal by any means but would match the performance of the stock one.

I've got XFX PRO 850W (circa 2013) PSU and after using some much quieter PC for a while, this PSU's noise makes me crazy, the CPU FAN is basically dead silent and my GPU turns off the fans completely under light load so that's only the PSU. What I've gathered on the web my PSU should have ADN512UB-A90 fan (135mm in 140mm bracket, 12v, 2 wire, 2500RPM, 100CFM) so I'd like to replace it with some other 140 fan that could go up to about 100CFM - although it's a bit high performance for a PC fan it's still perhaps not easy but doable to find something. The issue is that all the PC FANs either have 3 or 4 wires and even at 100CFM they would still work at half the speed of that stock one so I'm worried if the PSU is smart enough to automatically adjust fan speed according to the temperature or is it more preset-based system and then it would get completely out of wack as any other fan would have completely different power and performance characteristics.

Edit: Would D-link DWM-222, Alcatel 75-WH-IK40V or ZTE MF821 be good? - They are cheap and easy to get locally.

PC discs are still cheaper though Go to MediaMarkt or something - Console games are like 60€, PC releases are like 30€

yyyy... wut?? Nope.... 1. Boxed releases cost less than of the steam price after few months whereas console games don't lose value all that much 2. Digital releases are still cheaper on PC - perhaps not on the release date but later on they do reduce prices and there are many more sales 3. Multiplayer is free PC games are much cheaper - I'm not talking BS - I have all the platforms (PC, PS, Xbox, Nin'da) - PC is the cheapest, then xbox, then PS and nintendo are by far the most expensive Xbox games are cheaper than PS because (at least in Europe, in the US there are other methods I guess) you can go on price checker website, look for the cheapest price in Europe - usually Norway, Switzerland or UK - and buy your game there as there are no restrictions within European Xbox stores.

Get new-old stock RX 570 mining, old dell with 3rd gen xeon and dirty cheap ECC RAM, some good 2nd hand PSU, 32GB of ECC RAM (why not... they are basically worthless so it will cost you as much as 2 pizzas...), 500GB SSD and there you have sub-300€ PC comparable to Xbox One X

Excluding all the special/limited editions - definitely FAT ELITE! Also... x360 E is garbage... dumb glossy shell and lacks VGA and RGB out so no RGB TV/PVM, no CRT PC monitors and no projectors for you....

I currently have Mi Router 3G with Open WRT installed and Huawei E3372 modem. The problem is that it is the annoying hi-link version (it cannot be changed - all known bypasses etc don't work anymore) and getting the non-hi link version is practically impossible. The problem it that because the hi-link I run into dual NAT problem plus I'd like to have IP reset via UPNP working (that doesn't even work when I plug it directly into my PC) to skip download quotas. Please recommend me some other, cheap modem I can get in its place. As for the specs - I have 1TB data plan and its downside is that I'm only allowed to use 800Mhz band so I don't need anything fancy - no point getting anything "future proof" either as nothing will change before 5G and then I'll need a new modem anyway.

Have PCI-E creative and their support of these technologies is a total disaster to say the least... As long as toslink is detected as toslink (and not as analogue out like on some cards) APO software will do the trick For now I'll just order that "CM6206" in a local store so that I can return it if it won't work for me not risking any money. Actually, even if it doesn't work then just screw it not like I really need 5.1 for programming and I've rearranged HDMI's so that I get digital stereo out of HDMI switch.

WTF At this price range I'd be better off buying a complete new 5.1 :O.... Not exactly cheap considering I only need digital signal plus it's over in the US BUT it's a good lead! - Comments say it's CM6206 and aliexpress have them for just 6$ :) I'll look into it but I kinda think the last one, the one with fake SPDIF had the same chip so I'll need to look into it a bit.

I want an USB card as this way I can plug it into KVM while I'm using 2 PCs (one is my job PC and the other the private one) and it needs to be a native SPDIF so that I can apply a patch to make it output DTS 5.1 audio. So still the only solution is an USB audio card or PCI-E x1 to USB adapter but these don't exist

Looking for some cheap USB audio card with native SPDIF. Tried one from aliexpress but the SPDIF output was fake, windows would see the card as a regular analog output making it completely useless. HDMI to SPDIF won't work for what I need it. It has to be an USB card.