legoyoda

Need to check the logs first (sorry) at the moment it could be SW or HW (if it's HW i'm betting on the Motherboard at this time)

Also, yes. That circled chipset driver.... download and install that... Doesn't hurt to get the Audio and LAN driver also

OK, so disk doesnt seem to be an issue, good. In the Event viewer you actualyl need to expand the tree view on the left out to look like this: Here you can then see what was going on around the time of the issue... look for lots or errors or warnings or even LOTS of "information" from a single source RIGHT BEFORE the freeze.... Event Viewer can get out of control (verbose) so you need to keep an eyue on time... only events in the few seconds before will really be relevent at a guess... You said warranty? is it a pre built?

ok, So keep looking at that event viewer to try to narrow things down. what IS your audio device? A USB headset? a DAC? External sound card etc? If it's anything USB related and teh audio device disconnects EVERY time you get a freeze then it might be Windows resetting that device or (if it's USB) the USB subsystem is a little wonkey. for that last one, update your chipset drivers (motherboard manufacturers site). it can't hurt and sometimes makes wierd stuff go away. But the key will most likely come from analyzing event viewer If the Audio device keep resetting every time (lost..wait..found) then it either a cause or symptom connected to the issue.. (check event viewer for errors etc or even massive lists of "information" relevent to the device as the freeze happens.

Hi, When I think of freezing it can be loads of things but you said "audio device disconnects" Does it do the windows "Deo , deo Do.... wait.. di, de Do" noise of a USB device being lost and registered? I find this is usually SW related OR a failing USB port/chipset But you'll have to dig to work out what's going on. Try... - Have Task Manager on Performance Tab open all the time... after a freeze have a look... has Disk activity on a drive gone to 100% just before the event? (you have NVMe so this is unlikely the cause but for HDDs and SATA if you saturated the disk windows was on it could cause soft lockups that recovered themselves). Might as well check eh? - Clear your event log at the start oft he day... when you get a freeze up note the time. go in to event log after and select the system logs and the application logs... hunt for warnings or errors around the time of the freeze up (will point you towards a device if it's a device issue). This is the best bet on tracking what's happening down quickly. - Are you using USB Hubs.... if you have many devices plugged in to a hub and it draws to much power it can cause them to dissappear/reappear (causing a hang up). Try plugging devices to direct USB ports if you are. - Finally, to rule out GPU drivers download the latest versions from Nvidia website and then run DDU (display Driver Uninstaller) to remove every trace and install new drivers... At all points, keep checking that event log for erros and warnings... Random hooks ups can cause other stuff to look broken when its not

Just Amazon.. easy to get

Sorry, I wasn't clear. If the data cable you have is the plain old "Micro B" as shown below and it WASN'T a cable that came with the drive then there is a chance that this USB cable is not wired for data as it was common for cheap phones or other devices with batteries in them to supply cables ONLY wired for USB power. I've had a few times when i've plugged in known working rives with a cable that didnt have data in it... it's annoying. if it's the other two then you're back to "dead drive" I'm afraid ;(

One final thing.... the Type B mini port......if it's a type b that's not that REALLY strange type that looks like two connectors mashed together are you sure the cable is a fully wored one? I've had loads of instances where ive tri3ed to use micro B and the cable was wired for power only.... (i.e. was a phone charger cable). FI youre using the cale that came with the drive.. it's not that....

I'm assuming this is a 3.5" drive... when you plug it in to power you should be able to hear it spin up (or even feel it if holding the drive). any power lights? at all? usually there is something to indicate it's getting power. If the unit is on and getting power. dead drive... but you could go one step further and open the unit up and check if anything has come loose in shipping. (those external drives are usually just normal SATA drives in an enclosure... this would allow you to plug direct to a PC to see if it's the drive or the unit.. At this point depends how much time you've got.

I'd do the following... 1. Power it on and listen to it... does it spin up (good), does it click(bad) 2. Ensure it shows up in Disk management. If it doesnt it might be bad or it might be in a strange format for Windows to look at). If it does show up then it might not have a drive letter assigned to it (or it's conflicting with a drive with same letter). you can right click and add one. It may show up. If it shows up but is full of crazy partitions that you dont understand you can delete them from here and re initialize it. 3. run a command prompt and used "diskpart" then "list volume" and "list disk" to see what comes up... a if it's in here (but not in disk manager) you can blat veything on it and start from scratch (READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON DISKPART YOU CAN EASILY KILL SYSTEM DRIVE FILESYSTEM WITH THIS UTILITY)

You can put an 8x in a 16x no problems PCIe works well like that (like you CAN put a 4x NIC card in a 1 x slot.... just dont expect some of it to work ) Yes, the card may be damaged for some reason but the act of putting it in to a different PCIe slot wasn't the issue...

There's no way a sound card is going to push you over the edge of an 850W PSU. Remember, the 75+75W figure you quoted is the max draw that config would support it doesnt mean the card will use it. In the case of sound cards they have the aux power connector so they can run the power through their own filtering for a "cleaner" power supply and better sounding audio. No way it'll ever pull more than, say 10watts. Think of it another way... 150watt power draw ultimately would create heat. and need a cooler thats really quite big. the AE9 doesn't have one (just a RF shield). You'll be fine.

As the chipset is the element that's likley connecting the NIC to the rest of the system (and potentially also the NVMe drive if it's not directly connected to the CPU) you'll be sharing bandwidth via the chipset. You should still get great speeds from the NIC (for sure better than gigabit) but if you wan to tweak, turn off everything you're not using from the chipset in the BIOS. For example. the shipset sometimes reserves some bandwidth to enable SATA. if you're not using it.. turn it off...

I believe the 3400g (despite being 3xxx series) was actually a Zen+ part. they really don't like running past 3000Mhz (I have one) In the UK 3000/3200Mhz was pretty much same price when I built so I just ran it slower than rated speed. But, if this is the 1st build and you can make a saving, go for 3000Mhz as that's all it's likely to run at...

Hi all, Wondering if anyone knows any good high refresh rate (120Hz or more) monitors out there that are NOT curved but are 1440p or better and 32" or better. The use case here is building a virtual pinball Machine and I did a PoC with a 27" 120Hz monitor and it was fantastic... but the issue is that it's not big enough / sizing is a bit wrong for good placement of wrists on the side (not wide enough) so to make a bigger box, I need a bigger monitor to fit in. Issue is I cant find ANY non curved high refresh screens in the 32" or more range. As it's going to be a screen laying down the monitor has to be flat to work. and the 120Hz gameplay was epic (vs 60) so that's gotta stay... Don't mind 2nd hand recommendations. Just after model numbers I might conceivably be able to get. I guess could go 1080p (and mega Anti Ailising) if there's a good alternative. but, not curved.... Any ideas? Budget (including currency): GBP 500 Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Virtual Pinball