Kissker

So I managed to find something odd. If I run CMD as admin, and go to D:, and type "Setup.exe" for the CD rom installations - it works fine. No "blocked" message. How does that work? How is that bypassing whatever screening just running the disc from the CD rom tray (auto play, etc) ? Is there some permissions way to always set the CD rom to do this sort of thing?

no actually it prevents installation, at all, unless the cd-rom is set to 'run as admin' and once the games ARE installed, each and every one must bet set to 'run as admin' as well, or they won't run. Windows 11, by default, won't allow installation through CD rom (at least on this Laptop)

So I am trying to help a new laptop owner that has Windows 11 preinstalled. I hate windows 11, so I don't have much experience with it or how to 'get around' some of it's oddities. So here is the basics. There is no CD tray - so an external one over USB is used (super slow, but gets the job done) the owner frequently installs those '5 in one" game packs about hidden objects and stuff you can buy at Wal-Mart for under $20 The issue? EVERY SINGLE INSTALL says it is blocked, needing Admin permissions. Obviously I can't be there every time she puts in a new CD and tries to install, and she isn't too tech savvy on how to 'run as admin' herself - so I was wondering if there is a way to like... automatically run as admin, both for reading the CD, as well as for the installed games? I don't want to completely disabled UAC or anything, as I fear this will cause problems down the road. So I was wondering if there is a way to like always run the External CD Rom over USB as "admin" and then somehow make sure it installs the games from the disc, as admin as well? Or a way to like change permissions as a whole for this particular issue? This just makes me want windows 11 even LESS, as 'installing from a commercial CD' is one of the most basic things.

so more document facts. The PC just froze up again, at 11:30 AM CST After 3 minutes - the youtube video on monitor 2, stopped having sound , but sound still could be heard from main monitor game (FFXIV) after 5 minutes - I powered off the PC, restarted, and came straight here. Opening Event Viewer: nothing is shown at 11:30 AM. the earliest before that was 10:05;33 - where "The start type of the Background Intelligent Transfer Service service was changed from auto start to demand start." from service control manager. DistributedCOM - has multiple warnings. "The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID " after reboot - there are warnings and Red alerts: The previous system shutdown at 10:57:16 AM on ‎2/‎19/‎2023 was unexpected. this log - indicates it detected the problem, BEFORE it froze? (The freeze showed at 11, which was on my monitor for 5 minutes) I really want to figure out what is causing these Hard Freezes **EDIT** What all can control fan speeds? I am using Armory Crate "Fan Xpert 4" but it doesn't seem to be doing anythng. I have set it to Fixed RPM- even saved the profile - but it keeps having times where it seems to revert to 'normal' profiles. I intentionally set the rpm lower to have the CPU heat up a bit - but i keep hearing the fans Rev up boost mode to cool down. This isn't my desired results - so something else is controlling it.

Good question. All parts are brand new, with brand new (paid for) Win10 installation. I have had to bios flashback to get my system to even recognize ram, and had troubles since Nov with installing/getting things to work right. I even made sure to download the latest windows 10 media creation tool and used a freshly formatted USB thumb drive. In fact - just minutes ago - the system completely froze up again and I had to reboot. I checked the Event Viewer and am not seeing anything too dramatic. a few warnings (DistributedCOM related), something about an error during paging operation, and the notes that the system was not shut down properly. (when i had to hard power off from freezing) also the error during paging operation, appears to be on Hard Disc 2.. which doesn't exist... so I am confused. (An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk2\DR2 during a paging operation.)

I had a couple of other threads going to try to solve this but.. I seem to be overlooking, or it is something not yet found out for issues. Let's start with the Hardware: Mobo: Asus TUF Gaming X670E-Plus WiFi 6e CPU: Ryzen 5 7600x @ 4.7ghz (Cooled by a Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360 Mirror AIO) GPU: Asus DUAL Radeon RX 6700 XT 12GB RAM :G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo RGB Series AMD EXPO 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5 6000, model F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR , (timing 30-38-38-96) SSD: Crucial Mx500 2TB M.2: Kingston Fury Renegade m.2 2TB pcie4.0 PSU-Corsair RMX Series (2021) RM850x (both CPU power cables, and both PCIe/GPU cables plugged in using appropriate cable to device) Monitor1: Gigabyte G32QC A 32" 165Hz 1440P (running in 1440p/120hz goal) (Display port) Monitor2:HP 21kd 21" 1080p 60hz (HDMI) Windows 10 Home 64bit My issues? Plentiful. Let us start with the most recent: My PC is freezing up both monitors. Some sound is heard (if it was playing something with sound) but it doesn't recover and requires me to hard power off. I have left the PC there for at least 5 minutes - eventually the sound degrades/stops and it just sits there. - GPU drivers are up to date (no new since 11/30/2022) - Windows 10 is up to date Most recent Game observed in : FFXIV:ARR (Final Fantasy XIV: A Realm Reborn) - observed while secondary monitor had YouTube videos playing (in case that matters/helps) Previous issues: Ryzen Master - doesn't seem to do me any good. Auto tuning doesn't succeed, and reverts after a couple of hours of trying/fails/detects unstable. Manually trying to turn on Precision Boost Overdrive (PBO) tuner, to undervolt and gain some leeway on fan noise mostly, doesn't seem to work. (2 of the 3 fans rattle at around 60% speed, I contacted Cooler Master and they sent 1 replacement fan - which is how I discovered that 2 actually rattled and not just the 1 I thought.) this speed, be it 60% or whatever - is the 'most used' speed sadly, so it's not just say "during heavy loading of gameplay" that a rattle occurs, but during normal use too. It is also not a 'always' thing.. so I think a balance is offset in the fan- hence trying to undervolt and simply reduce the amount of time my CPU is 'that hot' that needs 'that much fan speed' Even though i think the CPU is only like 66C (what SHOULD my CPU run at? Maybe I am too cold and need to drop fan speeds all together?) Ram issues (bad RAM from memtest86 testing, sent back, got replacement ram, it didn't work out, sent that back, got CURRENT ram...) Lots and lots of testing, benchmarking and the like has been done... so... its been weeks of effort.... would like to get things solved.

alright more information time. yaaay fun. not really. So.. second RAM kit was working fine - and then I got contacted that my first kit I saved (for price reduction notice) - was now, cheaper than the kit that is currently in it (the second kit)... so I bought.. The Third Kit. We are now running G.Skill (again) 6000, with CAS 30. (the original plan) and I decided to go ahead and swap some power cables.. but noticed... in the light - (cuz it was very dark and I guess I didn't notice the first time...) this PSU has.. many sockets. This is and image of the 'white version' of my PSU, for easy viewing. SO I figured "lets just plug them all in" so top left is a sata, for my single SSD. (seems wasteful.. kinda wish I didn't buy an SSD now) then skip, then PCIe/CPU is 1 of the GPU - then motherboards needs. bottom left is skipped until PCIe/cpu - GPU, skip, CPU, CPU My new problem : everything is stuttery. In games, I chug along. I can feel the frame drop. in Youtube videos, they frequently stutter/pause while audio is going. So something is not right. I can only think of "power issue" at this point - unless this ram is... terrible. Are there ANY differences with the PCIe/CPU sockets? (at all..) I thought they were all wired/volted the same on the PSU end, and only on the component end would they have different pin outs... meaning it didn't matter which ones I used.... but .. maybe I need to use the ones on the 'bottom' only? (all 4 would be in use) should I swap the CPU ones with GPUs? (the original only used the 1 PCIe/CPU on the top row, and used both pig tails on the GPU end)

testing the PC without the GPU and using onboard is.. kinda not really useful. I mean it would be in some cases, but for this I am trying to figure out what, if anything, is wrong with my system, or if I am just expecting too much from this new system. Example : how would I exactly test how a game runs, when the onboard GPU isn't really capable of pushing 1440p/120fps - and that is what I was expecting the GPU to do? Sure the PC may run, but it would be much lower specs, 1080p at the best, etc. The PSU cables are only the ones it came with, yes, I don't mix these due to them having the ability to have quite different pin lay outs especially in the PSU end. (depending on how the PSU is wired) I don't see how things would 'clear up' using both power... eh lets just call them plugs- how both power plugs currently in the CPU sockets, without a GPU would do anything testable - I mean I wouldn't get anywhere near the gaming performance, and my issues aren't happening in benchmarks or anything - but during gameplay. It could be my selection of games - as - looking into them, it seems some of the issues were reported YEARS ago - and they simply may have never updated/fixed them, and players moved on to other games, or found 'work arounds' for those specific titles that worked for their hardware - which - don't work for my hardware. At best it would show.. what... that the onboard graphics work? and that wouldn't exactly factor out my GPU in any way - and if onboard GPU could pump out 1440p/120FPS - I wouldn't even use the GPU, in fact, I don't know many that would. That would be an incredibly powerful onboard GPU, especially on a motherboard that cost less than a dedicated GPU that 'should' give that kind of performance can offer! I will, however, try the alternative. I will unplug CPU_2 Plug on the mainboard, rewire using the PCIE power Plug from PSU to the GPU, and run dedicated twin power plugs without the pigtail system, to see if that changes anything. Most have suggested that the CPU_2 power isn't really needed unless I plan to Overclock the CPU (not really, especially on AM5 where undervolting and minor overclocking shows better results, and less power use!) or possibly in Onboard GPU gaming - in which Case I am not doing at all - and that power draw just isn't there. There is a slight chance doing all this work will result in the PC not powering on (not getting enough power during boot) but it's pretty slim, and should be instantly noticed. I have put a number of hours into other games and getting similar "not quite what I was expecting" results - Conan Exhiles for example, runs fantastic 1440p, something around 130fps, I need to 'test' it more and play it less to get real average, but the driver software is claiming 132.5 FPS - so that's pretty fantastic - however the game does, Freeze up and crash - which doing some googling shows it's an older bug that showed up years ago, and with numerous 'work arounds' to attempt (non have worked for me) I have however, finished the game putting in some 100 hours to do so. (all achievements [minus pvp/dlc], blind, solo play, etc.) The amount of freeze ups were, probably at least 50 over all, but they were so random I couldn't really figure out a cause, they would happen when I was safely in my base crafting, running halfway accross the map, or during high intensity combat in a dungeon - and not on a timer or any sort of 'ram leak' to cause... so .. just confusing. Fallout 76 - remains fallout 76. Valheim - remains Valheim. it is also noted that the game seems to have similar stutters and such - on just about everyone's plays (watching some streamers stream it and noticing the same hitches) although they don't appear to crash nearly as often as I did - but then again, I DID have 'bad ram" - so that might be fixed now. Needless to say.. this is a friggin nightmare to troubleshoot, especially in a timeframe, sure the return warranties were extended and still have about a week to consider, some have passed now. I am considering returning the SSD - as honestly... it is slow. A m.2 of similar size isn't "that much more" - would take up less space, not need a cord, and work much faster. Sadly the age of SSD in SATA might be at an end, unless sata can somehow up speeds. (and if I use ALL the m.2 slots, my SATA would be disabled anyway) Which is a return of like... $132 (if accepted since it was indeed opened) as time passes I am also growing 'content' with what I have again - an issue I have as I grew up with mostly hand-me-downs in everything in life. I am not that picky, so expectations are generally kept low, and when things "don't work out' I just deal with it anyway. (pretty terrible when it effects so much of my life, honestly, but I am working on it) I have less than a week to really buckle down and decide "keep it, or exchange/return it" and it's looking like keep. (even if, it isn't doing what I thought it would) as the hassle of returns and driving to shipping centers adds up. The PC, is, at this point, working. I just need a good game title to test. I have noticed my second monitor with video playing - the video getting VERY choppy during stuff as well, and my GPU is extremely loud when its fans go full blast (which happens in some games) I am, overall disappointed, but, not sure if I set my expectations too high in the first place.

I actually haven't tried disabling it, still learning about it and got sidetracked with my new ram coming in to test - and having.. immediate Failed on Memtest but then Passed when Expo was enabled.. so.. this whole journey is confusing.

NEW RAM came a bit early and so I popped it right in, ran Memtest86 and... failed?!? Then... something strange... went into BIOS and enabled Expo - and.... ran memtest86 again and it... passes? so... the ram is unstable and fails when expo is turned off... but when set up and using properly it is fine... this would mean that the default settings/timings/speeds ofthe ram is unstable.. but the overclocked and tuned settings - are stable? I am... more confused. New ram is Kingston FURY Beast RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5 5600 Model KF556C36BBEAK232 yes, it is technically 400 speed slower (5600 vs 6000) Also it's RGBs are SUPER FRIGGIN BRIGHT. (in case anyone needs to know this, i find them 'too bright' myself)

oh yeah. i had to update it to get the system to post at all, with the usb/flashback system. I was reading up on disabling MPO ... as my search results landed on similar issues and such.. but I don't know exactly what to try yet.

So I hadn't fully though of this, but my most recent crashing/Adrenalin crashing/Game Crashing/ PC Freezing issues - might be related to having 2 monitors.... 1 - is GIGABYTE G32QC A 32" 165Hz this is my main monitor, and I want to push 120FPS/refresh on multiple titles, although I understand at 1440P sometimes I will have to settle for 60-90fps range. (using DP1.2 cable) the other is a "Hp 21kd" monitor - it's basic, generic, HDMI and is mainly used for side content. (videos while i game, chat for streaming, discord, etc.) it only does 60hz, and 1080p.(HDMI) the GPU is ASUS DUAL Radeon RX 6700 XT Standard Edition 12GB - which only seems to have 1 set of drivers since my Motherboard was created. Motherboard (in case it matters) ASUS TUF GAMING X670E-PLUS WIFI Am I causing a huge conflict with the driver by doing this set up? Games crash and Adrenalin usually goes with it - but it also has it's bug detection, notice that it crashed (and I have attempted to send off data to help with this problem driver-side) Sometimes I have to restart my PC forcefully, as the entire thing freezes and will not recover. (5+ minutes frozen) I have found Bad RAM Dimm (currently not installed, only using 1 Dimm), I have tested both the m.2 and the SSD, and DDU'd and reinstalled the drivers. (to make sure it wasn't an issue)

hey nps just been crashing and testing mine as it is - also my RAm was also on the compatible list - so if yours doesn't work, just don't rule it out - i have fully tested now R1 and R2 (ram 1, ram 2) into A2 and B2 sockets, R1 into B2 as well, and R2 just seems bad, as R1 was able to work in B2 alone. (passing Memtest86 test) so it thankfully isn't my mobo socket it seems. (since stick R1 passed in A2, and B2 , during two separate testings)

Update: So I took RAM DIMM T1 (the good one, that was in A2 all along) - and put it into slot B2 - and ran memtest - and it passed. So this seems to indicate that the DIMM sockets on the motherboard are fine, that T2 - the RAM DIMM that was in B2 at the start, is just simply faulty. It does not, however, explain why I have driver issues, data corruption, and crashing/freezing - after DIMM T2 is removed from the system entirely. Now I have to find out why my video drivers are being wonky.. especially as this "$600" card.. (I didn't pay anywhere near that!) is.. sold out.. basically everywhere, except some sellers on Amazon trying to sell it for $480 (I paid $360) Could the fact I am using a single power cable for my GPU be causing the issues? PSU>"CPU/PCI" socket using GPU cable (splits into 'pig tail' set of 6+2 pin and 6+2 pin)>GPU Normally I would use PSU>"CPU/PCI" socket using GPU cable (split or not, as long as it has the pins needed) > GPU PSU>"CPU/PCI" socket using GPU cable (split or not, as long as it has the pins needed) > GPU and leave any 'pig tails' dangling or tucked away. This is the 'proper' way as I am told it should be, to deliver the most power, the safest way. But the GPU doesn't hog that much Power really, especially when undervolted (which I was trying, but haven't been since crashing/reformatting began)

Testing takes about 5 hours so I'll do some more testing when I sleep. (have to get some work done, even if I have crashes and issues) I'll put the 'good' stick of ram in B2, and see if it will boot/allow memtest to run. If not.. (cuz some boards are picky like that) I'll put the bad one in A2 and keep it by itself and do a run. In either case - if the current A2 ram fails in B2, or the 'bad" b2 ram Passes in A2 - it points more toward motherboard problems, right? I got some masking tape and put a little tag on the B2 ram and wrote "B2 - Fail" so it will make sure I keep them identified properly. And technically it doesn't matter what A1 and B1 do for now, as long as they "work" overall - due to me wanting to populate those slots later down the life of the motherboard. On the 17th, I should be able to temporarily put all 4 RAM Dimms in and see if memtest fails (if unusual behavior happens with the 'fail' dimm now and it passes) since I have another dual dimm kit coming.