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Hrodberht

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Berlin, Germany

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5-8600k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z-370 A Pro
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 8GBx2
  • GPU
    Zotac GeForce GTX 1070 Mini
  • Case
    Cooler Master CM Storm Scout II
  • Storage
    SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB; Toshiba 2TB 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    Cooler Master GX 750W Bronze
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock 3
  • Keyboard
    Titanwolf Invader
  • Mouse
    Titanwolf Gauntlet
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Home

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  1. Hello people. My current headset is quite literally falling apart and I need a new one, badly. My choices are rather limited, because I've always had issues finding headsets that sit nicely around my ugly big skull. I need it to either run over USB or be wireless, so I can use it with my Vive and also utilize the headset's mic. The Asus ROG Strix Fusion 700 really caught my eyes there. It's not the most comfortable, but since the earpads are exchangable, I could tinker on them a bit to adjust them more to my liking. I could use it wired when on my PC and, when in VR, run it over the Vive's native USB port or just use it wirelessly with my PC using a Bluetooth dongle. The Fusion Line certainly looks and feels sturdy enough, but I've made bad experiences with USB headsets in the past. All the ones I've had eventually died due to their mirco USB port failing. Do any of you have experiences with the Fusion 300/500/700 and can give me your input on what you think of them? Would be much appreciated. Cheers.
  2. Yes, and then they got bought by McAfee.
  3. Just switch to Ryzen and get a different graphics card. Maybe higher freq ram if there's some money left.
  4. My troll sensors are tingling. I like it.
  5. I have no experience with that board, but I'd trust in what der8auer has to say in that video. The man knows what he's doing.
  6. Can't give you any numbers on how much voltage would be enough for your chip, every chip is different. You just have to test your limits. Go for the clock speed that you want, set a voltage that's working and slowly drop the voltage until your system crashes. Then go up a bit by bit until you hit the sweet spot where it's stable even after a couple hours of turture testing. Your clock speed may drop if the temps are too high, but it could also be your motherboards power saving features that are kicking in. What board are you using? I would also suggest you delid your cpu and apply a proper thermal compound. Liquid metal would be ideal, but really any good standard one like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut or Arctic MX4 will also do just fine and drop your temps a good amount. Inform yourself about how to delid first, though, and be aware of the risks it comes with.
  7. Absolutely fine, even overclocked.
  8. Never had a Ryzen, but I've heard good things about their stock coolers, so probably yes. Either way you could still upgrade at some other point in the future. Using the stock cooler for some months won't do any harm and good coolers aren't that expensive.
  9. The r5 2400g along with a B450 board should be right around your $250 price range, too.
  10. Ryzen chips are a bit cheaper than Intel, but they also need to be fed with a lot of high freq RAM. If you're bound by budget, maybe stick with your motherboard and buy whatever it supports. What motherboard do you have? Or what socket does it support?
  11. Thanks for the insight, appreciate it a lot! In that case I won't have any regrets buying this PSU. I'm willing to pay the 100€ upfront for this level of quality and finally having a modular power supply, that I can even hook up to some sick RGB in the future. The 80+ Plat isn't a must have for me to be honest. But it sure is nice to have.
  12. First off, thanks for the PSU Tier List. I forgot that existed. System as seen in my signature. I'm aware that 750W is overkill for this system, but I do overclock and I do like the idea of having a bit of room for upgrading to more power consuming hardware, like a Vega for instance. I'm not aware of there being any downsides to having an overkill PSU except for your electric bill, but I'm fine with that.
  13. Hey there. My current PSU is a Cooler Master GX Bronze 750W that I've been using for over 6 years and I think it's definitely time for a new one. So, it looks like german Alternate.de has a few sales going right now and I'm considering getting the Aerocool P7-750W that they're offering for 99.90€, down from 139.90€. Pretty damn good deal for a 750W 80+ Plat certified fully modular and RGB capable PSU if you ask me. Question is: Is it any good? I've never owned any Aerocool products before, but I've seen them get a lot of flak for bad PSUs. Until their P7 series apparently, as I've found a Kitguru review on their 650W version which makes it look quite promising: https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/aerocool-project-7-p7-650w-platinum-power-supply-review/ I'm still a little wary, though, so I thought I'd put my mind at ease and ask if anyone's got any experiences with the Aerocool P7 series. Any input would be much appreciated. Cheers.
  14. There's a lot. The most recent example would be the iMac Pro stand that's attached using very cheap screws that fail at a hilariously high rate when trying to de-mount the iMac Pro. Then there was a certain chip that Apple had been using for years in their logic boards of many of their devices that was known to cause a very high number of devices to die, but they refused to replace it. Apple also has a history of using terrible solder that would essentially melt and cause chips to loosen from their boards. The way they then fixed this issue in repair is by simply putting a piece of plastic between the chip and the devices' chassis to keep it in place. I'm not an expert on this as you can clearly see. I cannot even give you the exact device and model names that were affected. I'd recommend you watch some of the YouTuber Luis Rossmann's videos. He specializes in apple product repair and has a lot to say about that. This is a pretty good one if you have 25 minutes to spare.
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