Vulcanrvn90

Hello, I'm currently building a VM/Nas server with eight 16 terabyte Western Digital DC hard drives. And I'm trying to decide on what type of SSD's to get that will act as a cache and hot storage device. I've done a fair bit of research on Intel's Enterprise ssds and for the price point I really like them. Before I decided for sure though I wanted to see if anyone has any experience with the Datacenter nvme SSD for either Seagate Western Digital or Samsung. Thanks

I know you said without defragmenting, but I highly recommend using an application called ultimate defrag. You have really fine granular control over where each file is located on the hard drive and it will defragment it so well that it'll decrease your response time and latency overall quite noticeably. I Have tried all the different defrag apps that have used it is easily the best.

Hello, The last couple of months and completely out of no where my 4g data randomly stops working. The status bar icon shows that it's stuck on upload and won't download any data. The only way I've found to fix it outside of restarting the phone is to change the cell band type from auto to wcdma then back. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Second issue is with Magisk and I know this is for Samsung but I figure why not ask anyway. As of yesterday after a reboot I lost root. Magisk apps shows I need to install magisk and install the app even though I'm in the app. Also a bunch of my apps are acting like I've never uzed them before and they need to be setup again. I haven't installed any updates so I'm not sure what caused it. I've tried completely uninstalling Magisk and reinstall and that didn't do anything. The install went through fine but after launching the app it still says no root. Any ideas? Thanks

Hello, I've been in IT for 12 years now and more recently started to make our golden image for the company. For our staff computers I only have one question. 1. For each browser ie. Chrome, Firefox, Edge whenever a new user account is created in Windows, each browser will have its default settings. Is there anyway to set custom settings for a browser that are used as the default for any new windows account? I thought about putting the default for for Chrome and profile folder for Firefox in the default user app data folder to see if it would work, but before I did I thought I should ask. We also have public computers that have to be restricted so people can't access or change certain things. 2. I SYSPREP the images so keeping that in mind what will be the best way to carry over any GPO settings I've set in gpedit.msc? Similarly, is there an application I can use to essentially create a restricted locked down profile that can be easily turned on or off, like DeepFreeze but for user account restrictions instead? Thanks I

That all seems to be the general consensus everywhere else I posted this as well lol thanks everyone.

Hi, I have used this app for close to a decade or more and absolutely love it. I have gone through the help documentation before and think I understand it well enough to have gotten some pretty good results but I am curious to see if anyone else uses it and what settings you use? This app gives by far the best control of defragging your hard drive with the ability to choose file placement and even the ability to defrag the mft and where to place it. If you don't use it I highly highly recommend it. Lastly there are a number of different methods you can choose from on how you want to defrag your HDD. I choose Folder/File Name with the thinking that since I choose what order I want what folders to go in, I place all the stuff I want as High Performance to the outside of the platter and the stiff I don't to the inside. Then since it is by folder and file name, it should be the best/most responsive because windows look for things in a preferably alphabetical order, right? My thinking is that if Windows does look for things in an alphabetical order, then this would be the best way to store everything. Anyone know if I am right? If not, then what would be the best way to sort my files on my HDD? I'm looking for in the end to have the most ideal file placement inevitably on my HDD. Thanks

No not at all, I'm looking for an enclosure that doesn't require a cable to use and one that is smaller something closer to this https://www.ebay.com/itm/123501566369 but with caps or retractable usb plugs as to not get broken off.

Yes that post was extremely helpful thank you

Hi, I'm currently wanting to build a custom NVME flash drive but I am having some issues trying to filter through the enclosures for ones specifically with a USB A/C end. Does anyone know of a way either through some keyword or perhaps website that has these listed so I don't have to go through countless pages of enclosure trying to find the handful that can be used without a cable? If not then in the same line of questions, anyone have any recommended enclosure that is cordless and ideally has a USB-A and USB-C tip so that it would be more compatible. If not one with dual tips then just the fastest, decently durable usb-c enclosure that fits a 2230 or 2242 nvme. Thanks

I haven't ever found a name or type, although the link in the second post has been extremely helpful, definitely start looking there. That is part of the reason I actually decided to switch to the Corsair ends. Something I just noticed as well, similar to molex's 4 pin male fan connector, I think you can just use a male to female connector with pins on one side and holes on the other that you can find on moddiy and just solder you cables onto the male ends, then plug whatever you need to into the female portion and it will get the job done. You wont have the entire connector put it should still function just fine and actually be a lot more sleek and easier to sleeve if this makes sense.

Hi, To better cable manage my computer I just built, I want to make custom length cables and had a few questions I was hoping someone could help me with. I'm going to start by doing the fan cable mod BitWit suggests and essentially trimming down the cables to as close as possible to the fan itself then making custom cables to go from the fan to the controller/mobo. So my questions, I have Enermax Squa RGB fans that use a normal 5v 3 pin connector, I should be able to change the connector to the same one Corsair uses on their fans right? I like them more because they actually lock and don't fall apart all the time. After changing the connector I planned on making a custom cable that runs from the now corsair plug of the fan then splices the three fans together and eventually ends in a aquacomputer rgbpx connector to plug into a fabwerk. Anyone happen to know the name/type of a normal 5v 3 pin ARGB connector, as well as the Corsair one and lastly the Aquacomputer one? Also the argb cable is only 3 wires, but the aquacomputer rgbpx is 4 I think,anyone have any idea how would I do this? Anyone have any suggestions on doing this? or any tips on something I might be missing for forgetting? Thanks

After reading all the comments which I much appreciate btw, I've decided since I'm making custom length cables that I'm going to just switch the ends anyway and use the locking corsair type on my fans and splitter cable going to the rgbpx end. Thank you all for the help.

I've looked I feel like everywhere and can't seem to find the info I'm looking for. What kind of connector is a 3 pin argb connector? What brand and type would be super helpful. Also if anyone knows the specific microblade connector that aquacomputer uses for its rgbpx. Also I'm wanting to make argb to rgbpx cables, the rgbpx is what aquacomputer uses. For cable management purposes I'm going to do the cable mod that bitwit does and trim the existing power and rgb cables on my fans down to super short then I want to make a a single spliced cable that connects all the fans together and ends in a single rgbpx end that plugs into an octo/fabwerk. Is the only way to connect the argb fan connector to a cable to use the 3 pin male adapter? I can't be the only one that thinks these things sucks and fall out all the time thus begging the question aside from using tape or the ek cable ties, is there any better way to get the cables to connect more seamlessly and tightly?

Hi, Hi I've asked questions regarding this before but I was looking for a little bit more help with a couple of ideas I recently came up with. I currently have a case that is similar to a Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic but it is smaller, just slightly but smaller. Now I didn't anticipate my new GPU (EVGA RTX 3070 FTW3) being so long and as a result I had to remove my middle radiator fan, this has been bugging me and I've been trying to find a solution for what to put there. After doing some research and asking around on here I came to the conclusion that removing the push-pull configuration from my radiator might actually be quite plausible with an potentially small or unperceptable decrease in overall cooling. Obviously transitioning to either a push or pull config will give me enough space to put the third fan back on and and actually look proper. This is only part of my overall issue though, as you can see on the top and the bottom there's only two fans as well. I initially thought I'd be able to fit three but the case is just slightly not long enough or wide enough. Which brings me to my ideas. My eventual goad is to get a 3080 TI or when a better water block comes out for my 3070 I plan on water cooling that as well. As you can see though I'd be limited to a 240 mm Radiator on either the top or bottom, or I can add two 240mm radiators to the case effectivly bringing my cooling capacity to one slim 360mm and likely to regular 240mm for a grand total of 600 mm of radiator. Now while that is a potential solution I also had a couple of other ideas I wanted to run by you guys and see what you thought. 1. Mount the GPU where my 360 degree mm radiator currently is and move my radiator to either the bottom, top, or into the rear compartment. I already measured it and I can fit my radiator plus a set of normal height fans into the rear compartment without modification. 1a. Mounting my GPU where the radiator is currently, and mounting the radiator either on the top or bottom which would open up the case quite a bit. I would be able to not only install another 360 mm radiator to either the top or bottom but I would also be able to have three fans effectively on the top, side and bottom which should help with cooling quite a bit. Now the rear panel of the case both in the front and in the back have two 80mm fan mounts. I know that leaving that side part of the case as an intake from the research I've done is the most effective for overall cooling of the entire case but if I put the GPU there with a water block and then install two fans for the rear and the front making the rear fans into an intake and the front fans into in exhaust I feel like with the additional fan on the top and bottom it would pretty much equal itself out. If the performance isn't quite up to par as I would like worst case scenario I could always Mount three additional fans on the rear panel because I have a vented area directly behind that side radiator mount on the back panel. 2. As I said I'd leave the GPU where it is and mount a 240mm radiator to the top, bottom, or a radiator to both the top and bottom for the GPU Cooling. 3. Vertical Mount the GPS you in the traditional sense and cover-up all my pcie slots and move my hyper quad card to the bottom one and hope that it all fits which I don't think that it will. All that said I could always just switch my case to the actual 011 dynamic but the reason I bought this case instead of that to begin with was because this one is slightly smaller, and I absolutely cannot stand the unnecessary thick black bars on the glass. As you can see on my case when you look it up (Inter-tech C-701 Panorama) my glass only has black bars on the top, rear, and in the bottom and on the front it's just glass, the manufacturer also removed the pillar there that you would find on the 011 making for a very seamless visual. All that coupled with the fact that I paid $120 to get this case powder coated white makes me want to keep it all its flaws and all. However my eventual end game for this case, is to eventually either replace the glass panels or install an electric switchable mirrored film / glass. I love the pcmr edition of the 011 but I thought it could also have a really cool feature if Lian Li wanted to include it. Which was make the glass electronic switchable privacy glass, wear when you flick a switch the glass goes from opaque to clear. After much research I actually found a company that developed a switchable glass that goes from mirrored, to opaque, to clear which is absolutely amazing. Adding that with a relatively small statistic panel would be the perfect case for me. And with that the 011 would not only have everything I wanted but would also be the perfect size for compatibility. I can do those mods to my current case and assuming I can figure out this sizing issue with the GPU, radiator and fans then this case would actually be the perfect case. I'm super curious to see what you all think, if you made it this far I applaud you, Thank You. Photos: http://imgur.com/gallery/jD0mBVN

Hi, I'm sure it has been asked before but why is it so damn hard to find white connectors for some cables? ModDiy and Performance-PCs.com I think are the only two sites that offer most of what I'm looking for. Does anyone else know of anywhere else I could buy some white connectors of the following? 4 Pin "Molex" Disk Drive Power both male and female (most are transparent) SATA Power with both straight trough, and normal caps RGB/ARGB Connectors (I want to try and make some ARGB > RGBpx for my Aquacomputer devices and hopefully skip the stupid male in between) 1 + 2 + 5 + 10 Dupont Connectors 5 + 9 Pin USB Connectors Also any name brand 4 Pin Male PWM Fan with the shroud so the terminals aren't exposed? Thank You and Please Help, It's driving me nuts that they are so damn hard to find and that the only options are from ModDiy

Yeah I decided to pretty much buy all the connectors I need from performance-pcs.com and moddiy while I continue to look for the molex brand of the same ones that I csn get in white. I've heard mixed reviews on the Chinese ones from sites like moddiy and aliexpresss which is the only reason I am going to still look for the name brand connectors. Thank you all for your help

Hello, I'm sure this has been asked but I can't seem to find it. I'm making custom cables for my computer and I'm having a bit of a hard time finding the last couple of connectors that I need so I'm here asking to see if anyone happens to the part numbers. Preferably Molex brand but doesn't have to be, also in white if possible, thanks. 4 Pin Male PWM Fan Connector (plug or sometimes called shielded not the ones with exposed terminals) SATA Power 3 Pin ARGB/D-RGB 4 Pin "Molex" Power Also what are the connectors called that Aquacomputer uses for its RGBpx products? What kind of terminals as well would I use? Lastly, I can use 23/22 AWG wire for all those components right?

These answers make a lot of sense, thanks for the replies

As the title might imply how come LTT doesn't sell computer components? He has experience in specifically that industry and style of work, plus he has machines to fab some of his own stuff and could make some sweet mods for computers. This begs the question why not diversify and sell computer components, software, accessories etc as well. It would be yet another income stream which never hurts and having a retailer that people trust like LTT it would have a ton of loyal customers, I know I'd go there first to look for anything I'm wanting to buy. If not selling computer components how about selling just parts for DIY modding like for custom cables or side panels or any other modifications people might do. This way there's not too much inventory to deal with, you make another income source, and you can help people probably find parts sourced close to them that are hard to find like for example mdpc-x wire or hard to find sleeving, or even water cooling parts.

Yeah they are just steel rods, but I'd like to make combs but in that style so to speak. I don't have a printer but have no problem paying for the wear tear materials and time though.

Hi, Does anyone know of anywhere to buy what are cable combs for custom cables that are made to be mounted to a panel in the computer case? Similar to what lowfat did with his build in the photo I've attached. If someone doesn't sell them, anyone know of any existing 3d models ready to be printed that would serve the same purpose? I would love to have something like in the photo, or better yet because of the size of my case, to even have some of them stack and be 2-3 layers deep/tall. Thanks

Budget (including currency): Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hi, TLDR: Idiot didn't research part size well enough to plan out-build and is now stuck trying to figure out how to put his setup together without sacrificing too much of the quality of the build and hopefully money. https://imgur.com/a/nE9s7B4 I recently spent quite a bit of money on building a new computer. Did research for countless hours that took well over a month or so, mainly because I wanted to do a custom loop as I never have. Well as you all know I'm sure that it's really hard to plan an entire build virtually when it comes to sizing everything, well it is for me at least. I've spent a lot of money and I know unfortunately to my dismay I'll have to end up eating a few hundred to figure out the situation I'm currently in. I'm trying to put everything together and ran into a snag, my radiator is blocking my SATA ports on the motherboard, and is so close to it in general that I doubt I can get my power cables through to the 24 pin connector. On top of that, I just found out my reservoir/pump is entirely too fat to fit anywhere near where I wanted to mount it once I put the fittings in. Unless I can do intake and outtake out of the top of the reservoir then I'm screwed. I've posted some photos showing my current situation, followed by the cable management I plan on doing at the end of this journey. I'm in denial because I spent way too much on the case already and I'm stuck between getting a bigger but similar case or figuring out a new radiator? or radiator and reservoir setup? or what I just thought of is to sell the motherboard and CPU and buy a zen 3 CPU and micro ATX motherboard. I've got to say this breaks my heart, I finally found a case and setup that I've always wanted and I can't have it without some more sacrifices. I'm 30 years old and when I was 12-13 I sketched out a case almost identical to my case I have now, and like the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic. I would have bought one of those but I wanted one slightly smaller. I saw the mini was coming out but didn't think the Silverstone 1k SFX-L PSU would be coming out right after it There was no word about when it would be out so I decided to move on and get this case instead. Perhaps I bite the bullet and buy a mini, a new 280 mm rad, the 1k Silverstone PSU, and hope that I can fit everything in that and that 1k watt will be enough for what I have. This particular case I love because it's smaller than the PC-011 Dynamic, it has 2 USB 2.0 and 2 USB 3.0 and you can mount 4 80MM Fans on the rear panel, two for the second compartment and 2 for the main. I also cut out a USB C hole in my top panel with the rest of the IO because my motherboard has a USB 3.2 Gen 2 front port on it providing me the perfect IO setup on a case. I even thought about mounting my thin Qi charger under the panel so I could charge my phone that way. I made the hole freehand and it's not perfect obviously but I plan on filling in the scratch on the side somehow and filling down the slightly uneven bottom. I need to find or somehow 3d print a plastic mount that my cable will screw into similar to how the rest of the io screws into the case or using glue or epoxy to mount it. My Parts Case: Inter-Tech C-701 Panaroma CPU: AMD 3960X Threadripper Motherboard: Asrock TRX40 Creator Ram: Crucial 64GB RGB 3600 MHZ PSU: Corsair 1200 HXi GPU: GTX 1070 Ti Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB, 16TB Seagate Exos, Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 1TB, 2TB Seagate Sata SSD Add-In Card: ASrock hyper quad m.2 w/ 4 2tb Sabrent Rocket pcie 3.0 Fans: 2 80mm Noctua, 3 Noctua 120mm ippc 3000, 6 Enermax squa 120mm, 3 Corsair LL120 Radiator: Hardware Labs GTX 360mm Pump/Resevoir: Swifttech Maelstrom v2 D5 Block: Heatkiller Threadripper Fittings from Barrow Aquacomputer Octo, Splitty4, Fabework 360 Lights: 2 light strips from the fabwek and 2 Cablemod Hybrid RGB-UV I Will be buying an RTX 3080 20GB/TI down the road as well as another 16TB Seagate HDD, and 2-4 TB SATA SSD I know this is a lot of information but I feel you need to see the entire picture to help with suggestions. I want to know what everyone thinks my options are or what you would do in my situation. I'm desperate to finally finish this beast, I've been dying to use it and have been "putting it together" for like 3 weeks because of life issues it's taken me a while to find the time. Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi you're my only hope. Thank You

Hello, I have an Inter-Tech C-701 case My computer case's power supply mounting area has a metal shelf that comes off the backside of the motherboard tray to help support the power supply when mounted. My problem is that with my power supply for whatever reason, that shelf is about a half-inch too far below my PSU, and it's quite small compared to the PSU itself. I have a picture but it isn't great but I did crop it and adjust the lighting to help what I'm talking about to stand out a bit more. What would y'all recommend I do in order to close the gap between the PSU and the existing shelf, also what should I do to make the shelf stick out farther? should I just look for a metal plate long enough for what I need, then drill two holes into it and the existing shelf then mount with washers? Or should I look for an l shape plate? IDK and could use some ideas. Currently my power supply is a Corsair HX1200i and its quite large/heavy compared to what its mounted to and is only being held by 4 screws on a thin sheet of steel lol, Id really like to reinforce it. Please Help Also, I'm looking for taller case feet and preferable rubber/sorbothane/silicone or something thereof that would act as anti-vibration or vibration dampening feet as the computer itself will be sitting either on my wooden desk or the wooden floor, anyone know of anything that would be taller then what I have? Also what would you call the type of squeeze mount that my current feet have? Last question, in the rear of my case I have two 80mm fan mount slots, is anyone aware of an adapter that would turn those two slots into say a single 120mm or 140mm fan? Photos: https://imgur.com/a/8Qh8Fbv Thank You

Hi, Im currently trying to find the right size washers and grommets for mounting my 120mm fans to my case and my 360mm radiator to my case. I want to install grommets for everything if possible but if not then definitely use washers. I feel like however that most that i find have a hole much to large for a typical fan screw, so what is a good size of washer to get? Isolate It! and McMaster-Carr have some really really cool products but I have no idea what size the inner diameter I would need or what size outer diameter I would need, ideally the washers would be just slightly bigger then the screw holes themselves as to not stand out. Anyone have any idea of these numbers? I have rubber fan screws for the case fans but obviously I cant use those to mount the radiator to the case, what would y'all suggest to act as a dampener between the radiator and the case? I have a radiator gasket for one side of the mount but on the outside (where the screw head is) I have nothing. Here are some of the cool parts they have, does anyone think that these push in bumpers could be adapted to work as radiator screws? https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-control-washers/ribbed-vibration-damping-grommets-6/ https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-control-washers/vibration-damping-washers-5/ https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-control-washers/general-purpose-vibration-damping-mounts-with-unthreaded-hole/ https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-control-washers/easy-to-install-vibration-damping-mounts-with-unthreaded-hole/ https://www.mcmaster.com/vibration-damping-mounts/compressible-stem-push-in-bumpers/ and the sorbothane washers https://www.isolateit.com/sorbothane-vibration-isolation-washer-0510001-0510003-0510050-0510051.html Thank You

With rivits and a rivit gun. Isn't that how everyone does it?