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This was my first thought as well. Will need to try with a mATX motherboard and a new case since for whatever reason there's not a single sub $250 ITX motherboard for AM4 anymore.

Hi! After a car trip, my PC, albeit well secured and softly packaged started misbehaving out of nowhere. At first I couldn't post at all and after carefully disassembling and reassembling the PC it booted up normally. Everything went fine until I stressed the GPU (GTX970 Strix) causing lack of display signal and PC reboot. Ryzen 3600 B450I GAMING+ AC 16GB (2x8GB G.Skill Ripjaws V) Seasonic Core GC-650W ASUS GTX970 Strix (with lots of errors reported by other users in the past regarding power states) Windows Event Viewer is full of the following errors: PC does work normally though outside of stressing the GPU. Hours of memtest and CPU stress test were flawless. Whenever I play anything stressing the GPU starts stuttering hard and downclocks from 1113 MHz down to 500 MHz. GPU-Z reports that during a 2-hour stress test the median GPU clock was 504 MHz whilst temperatures were great but I'm getting power draw warnings, meaning the GPU is reporting a 200W draw but 8-pin power connector is only supplying up to 30W apparently. PCI-E slot is providing the normal 75W and GPU limiting factor (PerfCap) is listed as POWER. https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/45043817 I'm quite far from home with extra components to try singling out the cause so I was just thinking of going to the nearby PC store and start replacing components one by one. I've done a full Windows reinstall and reapplied thermal pastes to both CPU/GPU and a full BIOS reset multiple times. Defective components could be: PSU and its 12V rail (regardless of being only 2-months old) GPU and its power system Motherboard and its PCI-E -slot In which order should I go?

But what exactly is optimization? I find this amusing since nearly all forums and comments on fresh releases blame "bad optimization" when users' hardware fails to run the games in concern. Lots of people have mentioned a title, resolution and FPS in this post. Is there nothing else to it for you people? If I make a simple software with a 2d accelerated 4k video and loop it at 120 FPS on an i5-530, does that make the software well optimized? Different titles combine different assets on different engines and the graphics are always different, how do you justify calling something unoptimized and how do you think especially smaller companies could better scale their software for thousands of different hardware configurations out there?

Of course, for modern consumer products as a thumb rule the only components where you might find incompatibilities in general are M.2 hard drives for motherboards (PCIe / SATA) and processors / motherboards (sockets).

I'd vote for a second hand 1080 as well, beats everything at sub $300. There are always local forums and such where you can find products from trusted people via mail or just buy one face-to-face. There's nothing wrong or risky in buying used product; component lifetime is well past 10 years.

For future the power consumption is by no means going up. Building with 50% headroom is absolutely braindead in a budget build. Your Marco seems to have zero experience in electrical engineering and can not be taken up as a serious source for this kind of information.

Why exactly an NVME drive for purely a gaming machine? There's absolutely no difference in PCIE/SATA drive performance for games.

Static really isn't a thing with modern hardware, in all honesty it's rather impossible to break components that way. There's no iGPU in your Ryzen 3600 so connecting the display to the motherboard will never yield signal. Which PSU are you running? Have you reset the BIOS?

Haha what? There is a reason they recommend 450W and not 550W when the system total power consumption is at ~220W. Stop being delusional.

Editing with what, editing what kind of material and for what purpose? You can't look for building advice without mentioning the software you're going to use. For Photoshop you do not want to invest in an RTX2080Ti. For Lightroom certain effects benefit greatly from it. 'Editing PC' is just too vague. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Photoshop-CC-2019-NVIDIA-GeForce-RTX-Performance-1269/ https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Lightroom-Classic-CC-2019-Enhanced-Details-GPU-Performance-1366/

Tried it with a single DIMM only and no hard drives connected?

Hello, is there a way to re-position Windows with a broken monitor? I've lost some 600*1440 pixels on the left side of my monitor due to external damage and while waiting for a new product I'd like to run certain applications full screen with the healthy part of the monitor. NVIDIA's control panel allows you to resize the desktop (ie. snip it from corners with underscan / overscan) but I can't re-position the display off-center. Any ideas regarding this? Monitor itself has no option to re-position. Samsung C27JG50 monitor with GTX750Ti.

Greetings, CS RMx 550W AsRock X570M PRO4 R1600 AF 2*16GB DDR4 / 2100 MHz GTX660-DC2OCPH-2GD5 / Gainward GeForce GTX 770 Phantom XLR8 CS3030 w/ Win10 18363 Samsung U28E590D Been having some issues with my motherboard since downgrading to Ryzen 1600 AF. After facing yet another problem and having to RMA my 1080 Ti, I can no longer access BIOS at all. Monitor displays "No signal" before Windows loads up. Tried disabling hibernate / fast boot, resetting CMOS and other cables / connectors on both the monitor and GPU. Hitting F2/DEL during boot clearly loads BIOS but again there's no signal. Also tried running a single DIMM only. Any work around tips for this?

Obviously, but even 2400 is unbootable which pretty much means there's an incompatibility rather than instability. I should have been clearer on the topic, still only curious about whether the 1600 AF is considered Zen or Zen+ by the BIOS.

I feel like you're talking completely out of your ass. You ignored the initial question and proceeded trouble shooting something I never asked help for, because it's completely irrelevant here. Then you proceed to claim the RAM might not be overclockable when they're rated at 3200C16 in their name already, the manufacturer is again irrelevant here.