EvilKitty

i do not understand the carrier network compatibility junk, the only way i see to know is to have a imei number and put it into the magic black box and see if it says yes or no, i cant really do that till i have the dam thing in hand, i do not care if it is slow i just want to know what my options are for connectivity, in the last 6 months i used data on 2 months they say i used 0.01GB each the UI probably rounded that up i feel like saying screw it phone shopping sucks and just taking a raspberry pi off the shelf and spending a few days making diy case and using it in the car instead of a phone this would solve 90% of my phone usage

i know this is a Chinese brand, if i just get that from amazon will it be English out of the box?

Important features: Has 3.5mm audio jack Has a SD card slot (or a silly amount of storage and cheap; gl w/ that) Cause paying for data so you can pay for a steaming service while hoping you single is good enough just so you can listen to music is stupid Has working wifi roaming (this is what made my stop using a Samsung S5 (mid 2022), it says it is connected but it does not work) Technically I could use a USB hub with a flash drive and a 3.5mm usb dac, but that seems silly when it should be built into the phone and would be annoying to deal without outside of using it in the car Nice to have: physical button i can use for play/pause of music player Quick access to a flashlight on the lock screen camera that takes images that do not look what what i see without my glasses on, preferably better than a $30 point/shoot digital camera from 2005 replaceable battery (i charged the battery on the S4 by using a diff phone and strapping the battery to it as the charge port was shot) i do not care about (w/ phones): What OS it is (apple/android) USB C / Micro USB watching videos playing games finger print sensors, i am never putting bio-metric data on a phone ever, the thing is just annoying waking the phone up when you pull it out of your pocket anyway things that have annoyed the %^&* out of me using a S8 settings to not put apps to sleep do not work, you paused your music app for 30 seconds now you have to unlock the phone again so you can hit play very annoying when you use password unblock and it is not short one, i also hate typing on phones Use case notes: I have been using "BlackPlayer Music Player" cause google music does not allow over 1k songs locally i have near 3k, around 9 days of audio, all i want from a music player is i give it a folder and it plays files from random from it and the sub folders i have been using norootfirewall to prevent apps form accessing the internet that have no reason to where a normal person gets a day out of there phone i get a week (i was still able to get a day or so out of that S5, given i think it was so bad a load spike could kill it) only thing i use a web browser (Firefox focus) for is to load a few bookmarks so i can check the weather and access some DIY home automation aside from that the only thing i use on it is google voice and email, and when i say use i mean just read a message or get notified of one, anything else and i use my desktop as 9 times out of 10 it is faster than trying to type on a phone Why i am bothering to make this post: the screen is cracked on my hand-me-down S8 and the touch has been failing near the top of the phone so my janky workaround for play/pause of music does not work as the part of the screen i need to press does not work to my knowledge even if you get a unlocked phone when you get a service provider they can lock the phone, is that a thing still? assuming my understanding of that was correct (never looked into it cause i do not care about phones, i have only ever used hand-me-down stuff) I do not like phones, i hate using them, and i do not want to deal with them, in my exp they are never worth using over going to a computer where you will be done before you can gen 1/2 though the process on the phone unless you are in a grocery store at the time

got a old pc and time?

the header being shorted could be tripping the psu protections (good job) but that would be unrelated to the cpu vrm, if you can remove the header or separate the broken pins the header will not stop it from turning on

At this time i have a 5 sata port JMB585 M.2 card, either it has micro fractures in the PCB or the thing does not seem to play well with anything i do (maybe it works fine for windows... idk) i have no faith in Jmicron to make a sata controller at this point that behaves under linux Either way i should get something else, so what i am going to do is use a M.2 to PCIe x4 board and my PCIe x4 riser cable and mount a HBA card somewhere I just need 4 sata ports that are reliable and do not just stop working for no dam reason spewing com errors, these are for use with mechanical drives so i would be fine with PCIe 2.0 card

I ran out of the stock epoxy (not paste) that came with a cooler i own , what is a decent one i need to re attach a passive heatsink to a memory IC

Well this is gonna be a late reply... i got busy with stuff... literally every other device in the system, CPU, switch, HDD, cable modem all pull far less dc power yes it does measure the adapter board and the pci card Unless the board s using 2A @ 7v 14 watts total i think the reading is good, if it were using 7v power i would pick up the same 2A on both the 12 and 5v lines, but what could possibly want 7v?

it should be fine, that said that unit should have had a 5 year warranty, i know mine recently hit 10 years old... guess i can get another 2 years out of it... also had a old 3 year warranty 300W seasonic go out on me, found a EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GA to replace it on sale from evga for 57.23 shipped w/ tax about 2 months ago and so far so good (server duty)

it has a molex plug input and i made my own cables without sleeving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZHDK4Q https://i.imgur.com/vMuWs01.jpg - DIY cables on PSU (i got annoyed with molex extension plugs, heave the odd plug thing)

clamp meter

everything else i measure with it seems believable maybe the PCIe to PCI adapter uses a lot of power? i was measuring the power going into the PCB that the PCI card slots into ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1083/1085 PCIe to PCI Bridge i can't really measure the difference due to lack of ability to get a meter between the pins inside of the pci slot

So i have a old sound card, a SB0350 along with a SB0250 (not included in power draw) connected by a PCIe to PCI adapter and i was checking current draw with my clamp meter and noticed a surprising amount of power draw turned out to by the sound card 12v @ 1.4A and 5v @ 2A that is about 26 Watts total, for a sound card that sounds crazy, i realize it is around 20 years old, but does anyone know if that is normal or does that sound like a bad capacitor with high leakage

12v for modem, 1 12v for gigabit switch, 1 12v boost converter -> audio amp, 1 12v for creative T12 speakers, 1 5v for pair of DACs, 1 12/5v for pcie -> pci adapter board 2 molex for x4 hdd cage,1 molex for case fan, 4x sata for SSDs, 1 sata for hdd, 1 FDD plug for a sb0250 estimated system power draw is under 60 watts, maybe a little more with some synthetic stress testing software I do not know german... the old psu came from newegg back in the FM1 socket erra

New PSU had 2 sata x 3 cables, 1 molex x4 cable, 1 PCIe x1, and 1 PCIe x2 cable that config was not gonna cut it I am tired of dealing with molex plugs and I came across something that is called a SPL-2 and so far i like it i could have sleeved them, but then it is a real PITA to get readings using a clamp meter

Cybenetics did review the 650W or was that the 750W variant of that unit, though it is not really a good idea to try to extrapolate another PSU from that series as they could have different OEMs was looking at warranty duration and and 10% load data for the lowest wattage PSU in the product stack, real shame that ASUS tuf was not ~95% efficient (the PDF report shows they typed a 8 as a 9)

the main thing i needed to check was to be sure it does not fall off a cliff at below 20% cause 20% it near max system power usage, since it will be running 24/7 i want to have a quality unit with a long warranty i have ordered this unit: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=220-GA-0550-X1 i even found a coupon and got 6% off on top of the 'sale' price, much better than spending over 100$ on something similar even if that is 1% less efficient i will not even come close to the cost difference in power over 10 years and i do not expect any PSU to last long enough for the power savings to matter compared to the sale price given i am expecting to never even pull 100W and buying a PSU rated at 550W is ridiculous for that, so the only number that matters is the 10% usage, unless i make/design my own PSU i do not see a reasonable way to get a low wattage quality unit (really do not have time for that, i would be better off recapping the old 300W unit)

just found out i can get 10% efficiency from the 80+ test results, they test 10% loads but as far i can tell from wikipedia 10% does not apply to the sticker requirements https://www.clearesult.com/80plus/manufacturers/115V-Internal upon sorting teh data that asus tuf 550w looks amazing *reads report pdf* oh that 10% load is a typo in the table...

Is there a efficiency chart/table for power supplies that includes 10% loads? Reasons: I had a ~10 year old 300W bronze PSU go bad on me every retail PSU that is of quality is at least 450W, most are 550-650 the 80+ labels do not apply to under 20% loads (barring titanium) titanium units start at 750W at so i have the same issue as the rest of the labels Seeing as how i only really need a 250W unit where the 20% load number would be relevant but with there are a whopping 0 reputable US retail PSUs i can spend money on for a low wattage build the only option is to buy around 2x the wattage i need or more at which point the 80+ badge is no longer relevant unless the system is under a 100% full synthetic load (CPU, network, HDDs, and SSDs) i am never gonna hit a 20% load on the PSU and for all i know i would be getting 40% efficiency 99% of the time. Ok technically i was able to find a be quite 350W unit for sale and it is listed at over double what you can get a unit with a better warranty with double the wattage for

my wire length is about 50 (right) and about 55 ft (left) using 16 awg wire, very low environmental RF noise (cinder-block walls + rural area), only nearby cables are ethernet and audio cables (note that both audio feeds will not have active data transmission at the same time) also it would be silly use use the amp at 100% volume without having very low software volume, the speaker are way overkill for the space and are not high end ones

no, i used a old case from the 90s and an old 300W seasonic PSU (well past it warranty though), typical current draw is under 60W from the PSU, not even enough to use 20% of the capacity, this was the PSU that replaced one of those included units years ago, it was last used in a FM1 socket based build, now it runs a AM4 2200GE, 2 sound cards, a NIC, a cable modem, speakers (Creative T12), this amp and the monitor speakers, and a pair of DACs, and i plan to add 4 HDDs and 4 SSDs replacing the single HDD in use ATM, once i add the HDDs i should have enough load to hit the 20% threshold to be in the 80+ rated efficiency curve i do have a hard to hear low hum, i was thinking about replacing the stock cheap caps with some UFW1V102MHD

cause that is where i have free space, gets power from the system PSU and it gets audio from internal header, the only wires that go out of the case are the wires to the speaker i had a old MB fail, ended up switching from a mATX case to a ATX case and i am trying to make use of the internal space

just showing what i made

Parts: * Bracket from 56K modem * Scrap aluminum bar * Simpson Strong-Tie 5-in 20-Gauge Galvanized Steel Tie Plate Wood To Wood (TP-35) * Nylon standoffs/spacers * 3 ceramic cement 20Ohm resistors * 2x100W TPA3116 D2 Dual Channel Digital Audio Amplifier Board 12V-24V * DC-DC Boost Converter 10-32V to 12-35V 6A Step Up Power supply Module * 18 AWG wire (Black/White, i do not have red or yellow wire) * Zip ties (4 and 6 inch) * ferret core * insulted spade connectors (tired of dealing with molex plugs) * heat shrink * 3M stainless steel scews/nuts/washers,lock wasters Had issues with the system rebooting when the amp is turned on so that is what the resistor bank is for (the caps on the board charging up must eat too much power from the PSU for the system to stay running) Was having issues with some static in the speakers then stuff got worse and a cap failed on the boost converter (i had 2 so i swapped it) now you can only hear it if you are listening for it with no background noise, i do not think the ferret core is doing anything useful, but it does not hurt, I am not sure if adding the resistors or swapping the original boost converter made it sound better (maybe i killed that cap by reversing the polarity by mistake, not sure if i did) but i am not getting any more noise/static from the speakers then i get using a external power brick vs the PSU Bent one edge of the stong-tie to add rigidity Hoping the ferret core will remove the hum from the speakers when not in use (very tolerable if it does nothing) Speaker wires run through opening in the bracket to the amp board This monster is going to live in the top PCI slot where I do not have a PCIe slot cause of a M.2 port, the boost converter just clears a low profile addon card It does sag a little, it pulls around 0.25A when running This will live in my server, it will receive audio input from the front panel audio header on a sound card (the white header on the middle back of the amplifier board)

i hooked it up as that doc described, but i was unable to get a digital output, i was however able to get said output from my front sb0250 digital rca jack, but why can't i get anything out the rear digital jack? i did find a option in software i had to enable to keep the output from sending both stereo and digital output over the same digital cable (with slightly different delays) the desync between the audigy card and asus dgx is crazy, when i hit pause at the same time, but when i hit play there is over a 1 second delay, i did not expect synced, but dam i did not expect the delta to be in seconds