Jenko32

Even i3 is ok?

Hi, I've bought a 4K TV but my HTPC with only an i5 3570k can't even output 4K. What's the minimum hardware required to see files in 4K HDR and use Moonlight for streaming games in 4K 60fps? I've tested (because I already have it) an N5105 Mini PC and it wasn't enough. My problem is that I'd have to get this PC inside a custom case of mine for which the maximum dimensions are 22x17cm, non standard dimension from the current motherboard (H61M-K) so I'd have to get a Mini-ITX. I'm asking for the minimum required because I would like not spending too much and looking for used hardware.

I updated directly to F6b and now it boots with 6000MHz. I'll have to try if it's really stable but thanks

Specs: Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX - 7600X - 2x16GB Kingston KF560C36BBEK2-32 I come from a DDR3 platform and skipped DDR4 so have I no personal experience with memory settings in general I just built this yesterday so I haven't tried anything yet (wouldn't know what to try actually). I only applied the Expo profiles. The first one wouldn't boot and just took me to BIOS page for unexpected failure. The second one worked but it was tested for only one hour so I don't really know if it's stable. I wanted to know if i have to enable some setting in BIOS just because other people with same setup were able to run 1. Expo 1: 6000 36-38-38 @ 1.35v Expo 2: 5600 36-38-38 @ 1.25v Right now I have the version F2 of the bios but have seen F6b on the website. Should I upgrade straight to last or every three?

Alright, I'll see what I can come up with

The 7600 is 2€ less than the 7600X but I know that the non-X one comes with the stock cooler but I thought I could run it at less than 95°C but I just discovered that the 7000 series is made to run at that temperature so the cooler won't matter, I would have liked my pc to not become an heater during the summer. Personal experience that it really rises the temperature of the room

Fast ssd = fast copy and paste. Simple as that The RAM choice was because 90% of the games I play don't even commit more than 12gb of ram (and that means it's not even using close to 12gb of ram) and seems strange that I needed 32gb for 1080p gaming now but I've seen more on the topic and seem that pc games are going that direction so I think I'll get two. Do you think 5600 vs 6000 is going to matter?

I mostly play on my computer, my monitor is 1080p 120Hz, so I bought a RX6700XT but I have an i7-4790 therefore I have a little bit of bottleneck as expected. In the coming months, or before I feel like it, I would like to upgrade my CPU, what do you think of this build I came up with? https://it.pcpartpicker.com/list/8Cg9Vw Reason for these choices: CPU: I don't want to spend 100€ more for the 7700X and the 7600 is only 2.51€ less RAM: 1x16GB to get 32GB in the future if it's really going to be needed for games. I choose this RAM only because it has EXPO profile 6000MHz CL36 and it's cheap. I don't think I'll need to be chasing the lowest timings or higher frequency for my use MB: This is the most difficult decison for me because I wanted PCIe 5.0 for the M.2 SSD speeds but I don't want a 50 second boot time like some MSI or Asus B650 seem to have. They might solve this with BIOS updates in the future but If I'm going to stick with this motherboard for another 10 years I'd like not to be stuck with that problem. I choose ATX because I need to plug something in a PCIe slot and with the μATX one it seems like too close to the GPU so it could block the airflow

You can try to bend it back but make sure to not bend it the other way. This type of metal, when bent too much or repeatedly, becomes fatigued at the point that it breaks really easily. In any case that's the ID pin from the pinout I can see online and most devices don't use it so it will work for most stuff if you end up breaking it https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/395950/what-to-do-with-usb-3-0-id-pin ID pin in usb 3.0 header discussion

Ok, if it's not the cable then it's going to be the monitor but for unknown reasons, because as you said it works with the laptop

Nothing to say about the build but check that DP cable, it says it is VESA certified but it doesn't appear in the official database https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/ Might be fine but would get another since it's going to be around those £ anyway. I have a KabelDirekt (which appears on the website) and I see it's on amazon.co.uk too Also doesn't the monitor come with one? That should be fine if they give it to you with it

Well as far as I know artifacts can't happen on one output port only, it could be that specific DP/DVI/HDMI controller but it's rare to say the least considering I've heard about it only on very old cards. Have you tried some heavy stress tests? Like OCCT or FurMark, the artifacts should get worse

Probably best with ddrescue imaging then (you don't have to install linux to use it, you could run a live version on bootable from a usb drive). It may be Windows preventing the read as it does for failing HDD but I'm not sure how

I added GPU power draw with HWiNFO to MSI Afterburner, I don't remember how I did that though. What does adrenaline overlay actually misses that Afterburner has? I'm about to make the change

These are my two only actual options from Amazon: XFX (438,99€) - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B08YKCC8XD Asus (429,99€) - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B08CS6Z8R9 The Asus one will arrive faster and it's Amazon itself selling it so if I have problems with it it's easy to send it back, the other is a Portuguese seller that ships from Portugal so longer shipping and there could be a cost involved in shipping it back if problems arise Is it worth it to get the a 2 fan over the 3 fan or the temperatures will suck?

I searched in amd community forum and it seems that adrenaline has a bad history with msi afterburner, since 2018 you can see report of crashes, freezes and bugged overclocks, some problems appear to be fixed but not all so I guess you could install Riva Turner Statics Server without MSI Afterburner and use it with HWiNFO64 instead but you are going to start from zero whatever configuration you may have Bummer for me too since I'm about to change to AMD after lifelong of Nvidia GPUs

Upgradability is the biggest motivation. Years from now he could change both CPU and GPU for cheap. Imagine having bought a 1600X when it first came, want to upgrade now but don't want to spend too much so you see used market and see 80$ ryzen 5 3600x. Might be worth it if you need to squeeze a little more. I did this from i5 4670 that my 2013 build had, to a 40€ i7 4790 I found in 2019 and that wasn't a big change but appreciable for so little money

I understand not justifiable at that price difference, here in Italy prices for AM5 mb, r7000 and ddr5 are just now getting lower but in the end you might not even update for a long time like me still with the i7-4790 after 10 years

I don't think there's a universal way to check what it actually is but being a 240Hz monitor it might actually be a problem to use older versions that were not made for that following VESA standard or a cheap designed cable. Might be a good idea to buy a 1.4 VESA Certified one but before spending money, other than testing at a lower refresh rate, you might want to try other stuff that comes to mind -Run DDU and fresh install GPU drivers -Try using only the monitor with the problem by disconnecting the other -Update BIOS maybe? -Could be too much work but trying a live version of a Linux OS that boots from a USB drive and see if it still happens

I would say to try to make the image before any physical step, so nothing more is lost if something goes wrong

https://www.roadkil.net/program.php?ProgramID=29 I've never had to use it so I never actually tried it (saved the site some time ago) but it says it does what you need

Do you have the possibility to buy the newer AM5 motherboard and Ryzen 7000 CPUs? AMD's AM4 that supports 1th to 5th gen is now over and it started again with 7th gen with AM5, might be better because just getting a new CPU in 5 years (if you'll need to upgrade from this build) is easier than changing both motherboard and CPU in the future

Does the second monitor use DP too? Can you test the same port and cable with that? Artifact should be visible on both even if in different ways, can you try a lower refresh rate and see if that changes something? Do you have any idea what version of DP cable you tried? I had problems in the past (but consistent ones, not intermittent) with cable that were made for older versions of DP and GPU and monitor both supporting a newer one

I'm not an expert and I've never tinkered with OnePlus phones but something like this happened to my LG G8s. You used the msm tool but you do have access to adb and fastboot I think. I had to download the firmware that was already on the phone (I just downloaded it from the LG Windows Tool) and unpack it, from it I took boot_a.img and boot_b.img and flashed them without having to flash it whole and lose data. My phone actually had 2 img files and I flashed them both. But keep in mind that LG's architecture might be different and that was on Android 10. My phone had nothing that indicated that the boot was broken but I run an adb command to scan all .img (fastboot getvar all) and this one was different size so that's why I did that but wait for someone else or try and find some people that have thinkered with the same phone, I found on of these groups by searching on Telegram my phone name

I don't want to keep the i7, probably will get ryzen 5 7600x in the future, it's just that if I upgrade my CPU now I'm going to be bummed because I won't gain too much in games, GPU is easier for now