milesuy

I am planning to get a A520M or B450M motherboard, probably from Gigabyte's DS3H line, would these motherboards/chipsets be an issue? Would the motherboard automatically recognize 3596 or 3600?

I'm planning to build a PC with Ryzen 5000 series CPU with a XMP-3596 CL19 RAM. I might go for a Ryzen 5 5600, but would the RAM work with the CPU at its rated speed (or other Ryzen 5000 series CPUs)? If not, can it run at least 3200 CL16? The RAM kit is a 2x16GB TeamGroup Vulcan TUF Gaming Alliance <-- links to TeamGroup's website.

I have owned an iFixit Manta Driver Kit for a while, and its starting to oxidize / rust. I am planning to use an Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine to clean the screw bits. Is this a good idea and has anyone tried it?

I only had the battery disconneted at that time, so I'll try completely removing the battery this time. I'm suspecting the bloated battery is flexing the chassis, which might trigger the diagnostic LED. So far, the diagnostic LED hasn't lit up, hopefully it would always stay that way.

It is indeed a hardware issue as mentioned by @Brando212 I just replaced the keyboard assembly and it works well again. As for support, the laptop's warranty period had ended a few years ago.

Update: I had disabled fast boot, and the laptop does not flash its LEDs anymore. I'll continue to monitor if it stays that way. Update 2: It went back

No, I didn't spilled anything on it. I got it late 2019, so its about 4 years. It had been upgraded, but I don't have to disconnect anything to be able to upgrade it. I do always disconnect the battery before working on the laptop. I am afraid of this, but are there other troubleshooting methods before proceeding to replace the keyboard? The keyboard and touchpad for this laptop is riveted to the housing / frame / palmrest, so I think replacing the keyboard also means replacing the touchpad and housing, which would be very costly. Edit: Touchpad is only screwed, but its still extremely costly to replace the housing and keyboard.

When I am trying to type something some of the keys on the keyboard aren't working. Although they would work normally again when I spam them or keep on pressing them until they work, but after a few hours of not using the keys, it would stop working again until I spam the keys again. The keyboard never got wet, but the laptop hadn't been used for a while. I also tried using an external keyboard, and it works normally. The laptop's model is Dell G3 3590. What's wrong with the keyboard and what can I do to fix it?

Aside from the blinking, Caps Lock LED is stuck on, but if there is no blinking Caps Lock works normally.

I tried removing the battery, so its running from the AC adapter (charger), and so far the flashing LED stopped, I guess it was the battery. I'll write an update when I get a new battery. I also did disable ThrottleStop from running at boot, so I'm not sure which one fixed it. While writing this, it happend again, even with the battery disconnected / running from the AC adapter. Looks like I can rule out battery, but it does need to be replaced since its bloated. I do want this issue fixed before I replace the battery. If I disable device encryption, am I safe to temporarily install another drive and run another operating system? I don't want to get locked out or worse, screw up the Windows 11 drive (from TPM) since I still have data / programs that I need.

The power/charge indicator flashes 2 amber and 8 white color LED. The Caps Lock is also stuck on, I can't turn it off, even on an external keyboard, but using a keyboard tester shows that it knows that the Caps Lock key was pressed. This happens on the next power on, either from a shut down or a restart. After some Googling, I found that the flashing LEDs / error code means a LCD Power Rail Failure, but my LCD works fine, so what gives? Reference: https://www.dell.com/support/kbdoc/en-us/000127927/a-reference-guide-for-latitude-notebook-and-tablet-diagnostic-indicators#:~:text=LCD Power Rail Failure I know that the reference is for a Latitude laptop, but I can't find a resource for my laptop. Update: I finally found that the flashing LEDs means System board error, but everything works, even playing/running games (GTA V, Back 4 Blood, Dying Light, GTFO, etc.) and benchmark programs (Cinebench, Furmark, 3DMark) runs fine, so what gives? https://www.dell.com/support/manuals/en-us/g-series-15-3590-laptop/dell-g3-3590-service-manual/system-diagnostic-lights?guid=guid-215fecab-328d-40f9-8731-750be6594708&lang=en-us#:~:text=2%2C8-,System board error,-3%2C1 I tried restarting, and also removing the CMOS Battery, but the issue persists. For now, I have tried disconnecting the battery for a few hours and the error code is gone, but the issue is recurring at the next power on/restart. I also noticed that one of the cell of the battery is swelling and the battery drains when not used for more than a week, but it still runs for a few hours from a full charge, so I'm hesitant to replace it. I'm not sure if this is related, but I added this just in case. I am currently suspecting a bug from WIndows 11 or a program (ThrottleStop) that's messing with the laptop. I am planning to troubeshoot this by temporarily taking out the current M.2 drive and installing another M.2 drive to install WIndows 10 or Ubuntu, but I'm not sure if I could screw up the Windows 11 drive, since W11 has the TPM thing and device encryption enabled by default. What are your thoughts for this troubleshooting method? Please share your some troubleshooting steps or solution for this issue. PS: Its really annoying to keep dismantling the laptop and disconnect the battery.

I also experienced BT audio, but audio makes use of more bandwidth than typing so audio is more sensitive right? I guess contacting them would be the only option, the markings at the back of the keyboard only shows the name of the keyboard, and the FCC ID. A quick Google shows that the FCC ID is similar to all versions of the keyboard.

I have a Keychron K1 and sometimes when typing it takes a few seconds for the typed keys to show up, or I need to press the key multiple times for it to show up, or it thinks I held one of the keys. Rebooting the PC fixes the issue for a while, but it recurs after a few hours. I also had a bluetooth keyboard previously and this is reason why I ditched it. Initially, I blamed the keyboard so I bought a Keychron K1, but I recently changed motherboards with an Intel AX200, and I still have this issue. Questions: Is this normal for Bluetooth keyboards? I have a wireless mouse beside the keyboard and a WiFi router 90cm/3ft away, is this affecting the keyboard? I am planning to update the keyboard's firmware, but how do I identify which version is my keyboard? Link: https://www.keychron.com/pages/keychron-firmware-for-k1 Here's what it looks like when typing: (typos are underlined) It should look like this: (Text extracted from https://www.lipsum.com/) When I am in USB mode, the keyboard works fine.

What about the RGB, is it on the PCB or on the switch? If I want RGB, should I buy the one with RGB, like this one in Amazon? I'm planning to buy another Keychron keyboard, if it is hot-swappable, would the RGB work if I buy switches with RGB if I have a White LED keyboard?

I have a Keychron K10 Pro with RGB Backlight and K Pro Red switches, and I am new to keyboard modding. I am planning to upgrade the switches to Cherry MX Blue or Gateron Blue, but I am not sure if they are compatible with the keyboard and which model number I need to look for. I am also planning to change the keycaps, but are the keycaps for Cherry MX compatible with Keychron K Pro or Gateron switches?

I am planning to gift my parents a smartwatch. The feature I am looking for is notifications/alerts for messages and calls, especially from cellular calls, FaceTime, and 3rd party IM/VoIP apps (Viber, Facebook Messenger, WhatsApp). My mom has an iPhone and my dad has an Android / Samsung phone. My budget is under PHP 3000 or USD 50 per watch. Note: The notifications/alerts for messages and calls are the only things that I am looking for, so preferably under PHP 3000 or USD 50 per watch. I own a Samsung Galaxy Watch 5 and these are the features that I am looking for: Which smartwatch can you recommend? I already found Redmi Watch 3 Active (at PHP 1999) and Amazfit Bip 3 Pro (at PHP2999), but I am not sure if they can show notifications/alerts for messages and calls from 3rd party apps, and support for iPhones.

I was able to remove the nib that is stuck in the stylus with a compass by 'digging' out / dislodge the snapped nib. I tried purchasing Microsoft Surface Pro nibs, but they are too long. I also tried filing them down, but its not held securely anymore. I guess we're screwed for extra nibs. For now, I just use the other nibs that came with the stylus. I might try asking an Asus service center, but I don't expect they'll help me. Their service center in my region is bad (Philippines).

No BSODs, the PC runs fine. I guess, I don't need to upgrade if the difference is marginal.

Budget (including currency): USD 110 or PHP 6000 Country: Philippines Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games GTA V World War Z GTFO Dying Light Forza Horizon 4 Back 4 Blood Lethal Company Coding & Compiling C & C++ Xilinx Vivado & Vitis (Verilog) Python Video Rendering: Davinci Resolve ML Model Training via WSL and Python Current System: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X RAM: 2x16GB T-Force Vulcan TUF Gaming Alliance 3600MHz CL19 (TEAMGROUP-UD4-3600) Running at 3600MHz CL20-19-19-39 1T Built-in XMP profile is at 3596MHz CL19-19-19-39 GPU: Colorful iGame RTX 2070 SUPER Advanced OC Motherboard: ROG Strix X570-F Gaming CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Turbo Questions: I am planning to upgrade my RAM with better timings, but is it gonna make a difference? Does the Ryzen Compatible Memory List mean its guaranteed that a RAM module / kit would run at its advertised XMP profile? I've been looking for 3600MHz CL16, but its difficult to find one locally, the most common one that I could find is 3600MHz CL18 and 3200MHz CL16, while the latter is cheaper. According to the RAM Calculator, their latency are similar, is there any advantage in getting the 3600MHz CL18? Would you recommend getting the 3200MHz or 3600MHz CL16 instead? I heard Ryzen hates odd CL timings, is it true? Is this the reason why my RAM don't work on the built-in XMP profile? Which one would you recommend? 3600MHz CL16: Corsair Vengeance LPX, G.SKILL Ripjaws V, *Kingston Fury Beast, and **G.skill Trident Z Neo. *Advetised 3600MHz CL16, but I doubt its CL16 since I can't find its datasheet. **Too expensive 3200MHz CL16 and 3600MHz CL18: Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHz CL16: Kingston Fury Beast

I would clean it myself if it wasn't that bad. As for deep cleaning, I might as well find this type of service as I'm already spending money, and a part of it is that I want to see my PC as if it was brand new again since I saw a couple of my friends bought new PCs . I also don't have the equipment, like the ultrasonic cleaner, which is very pricy.

Its about 1 year since it was last cleaned. As for how dirty, the dust filters were already full / almost clogged (so imagine what's inside), plus my area has a lot of constructions nearby for high-rise buildings (plural). My home had the windows open a few months ago, but now I can't since leaving it for the day triggers my allergy and I can alraedy see a lot of dust on my table. I got lazy when I saw the amount of dust, and my asthma is already acting up, I don't wanna risk worsening it.

My PC is exteremely dirty (since I got very busy this year and neglected cleaning it for a while). I already had an asthma attack just by opening up the case (I'm very sensitive or allergic to dust). What would happen if I left it running at this state? I haven't experienced overheating or failures on the PC as of writing. Can anyone recommend a PC cleaning service shop in the Philippines? (Perferrably a deep cleaning service) As for repasting the CPU and GPU, I'll do it on my own to reduce the cost and I already have a ton of thermal paste lying around.

There's two of them

I found the culprit! In "Wireless LAN (2.4GHz) > Advanced Setting" I need to disable " Isolate 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands". What were they thinking hiding that setting?

I don't have an issue with the connection between LAN to WiFi. My issue is the connection between 2.4GHz and 5GHz. I am able to ping a Desktop PC on Ethernet (Wired) from my phone on WiFi (Wireless) and vice versa, but if I used my laptop in 2.4GHz WiFi to ping my phone in 5GHz WiFi and vice versa, it fails.