ChaseDown

Thank you. I only have pics with the stock cooler. Haven't taken any since I got the new fans and cpu cooler. I dont think there is a way to improve the air flow in the case without switching the front 200mm fan to something with better static pressure or nodding the case to hold more fans. I'll just keep an eye on temps to make sure the max during multicore doesn't start going above 80c, and maybe remount the cpu cooler when I get more thermal paste lol.

So do you think with the max temps lower and the frequency higher I should just leave it? I'm just worried I did something wrong to cause the idle to go up. But I have to consider it might be as you said just air flow changes or cooler differences I guess?

So I have a r7 3800x in a thermalright v1. With the stock wraith prism and no exhaust fans I idles in the lower 40s but under all core work loads I would get up to 90 and the all core clock would drop about 100 to 150 mhz, and the cooler was loud as hell! After posting on the forum I found I should be able to get a decent tower cooler and bigger than the case spec says. So I ordered a Arctic Freezer 33 Esports One and 2 80mm arctic fans for exhaust! I tested the wraith prism with the 80mm exhaust fans and it didn't help the cpu but did lower gpu temps! Then I installed the Arctic cooler(still with exhaust fans) and now my idle temps are in the 50s! My all core workload tests are now maxing at 79c my frequency also went up about 50 mhz and its much quieter... I'm just worried I did something wrong with the idle temps so much higher! Any tips would be great thank you!

Ty very much I can now look for coolers up to 154mm!

I can't remember if it was on amazon or newegg but I think a seller might even have been artic recommended a newer cooler than the xtreme 2. I think it was under the question section on amazon for the cooler. Bus as long as its quieter and preferably out of the 80s during all core loads I'd be down lol.

I searched and search through pcpartpicker and couldn't find anything but the cryorig h7 that fit but was larger than the case recommended site. Though if you read the build with the u12s he had to drill holes for the heatpipes to stick through the acrylic. But it means a 150mm might just fit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4SM6G1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zcLtEbZRBBX2Y. And https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4SM6G1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zcLtEbZRBBX2Y Are what I was considering.

Edited cause didnt see the first part of your message. No color problems but want a front to back air path. True, any recommendations on a cooler that will be quieter and maybe cooler than my temps with the stock cooler that are under 149mm tall? And affordable( less than 40 usd)?

So I'm looking for a new cpu cooler for my r7 3800x. I have a thermaltake v1 case with the stock 200mm intake fan. I have the stock cooler on the high setting and it can get a bit loud and temps when running things like cinebench are in the 80s. Max was 84.3c. I was told the noctua u9s was the best for the case, but its $60 usd. And I've read you can get taller coolers than what the manufacturer says for the v1. I found 2 offbrand/no name heatsinks that I was considering, a 135mm tall dual tower 6 heatpipe unit w/ a 92mm fan, or a 148mm tall single tower 5 heatpipe unit with a 120mm fan. I would be buying MX-4 thermal paste and 2 80mm artic fans(for exhaust) with either one and total would still be less than the u9s. Not sure which style cooler would be better. Main goal is make it quieter, and stay outta the 80s.

Thank you. I was thinking of getting a 140mm aio and mounting it on the inside of the case as the 200 fan is mounded outside the frame. But was worried that the higher static pressure from a 140 designed for a radiator might hurt the motor of the 200mm one... or getting the big shuriken 3 like the other guy said. And getting 2 x80mm noctua 1300 pwm redux fans no matter what. Not sold on which cpu option yet.. the air cooler option is cheaper but I am feeling the aio would cool better and be quieter.

Thank you. It was just I coincidence about the cpu height limitation. The case supports a 200mm(included) or 140mm or 120mm front fan, and 2x80 team fans. Radiator support is 120mm or 140mm front mount max. Sorry for the confusion. I mentioned the cpu limitation as I half expected someone to say just get a noctua d15 lol. You did answer my question ty the 140mm aio is the way I was leaning. Anyone know good air coolers under 140 that are quiet?

I know this issue has been talked about a lot on youtube and there is a ltt video but it's with a oced 9700k. I recently bought a 3800x and am using the stock cooler. Even after making a custom fan curve the cooler is annoyingly loud and the ramp ups using the asus fan expert 4 software are jarring even when I put in a timed ramp up in the software. I have a Thermaltake V1 as a case with a 140mm cpu cooler height limit. Would a 140mm aio have enough cooling performance to max out the stock non oc performance of the 3800x? I dont really need it to be a lot cooler than the box cooler(peaks at 84 in short stress tests). I just want it quieter and not to lose performance.

Oh also any clue on how to make the lights go off when the pc is off annoying lights just stay on!

Ty!

3600 mhz 16 19 19 39 By everything else default do you mean auto? That's how it was from beginning(shipped all auto which didnt use ram properly), and is that voltage for the cpu high?

I just built a new pc 3800x(wanted the 2 free games) , b450 I strix itx mobo, 32gb 16gbx2 gskill 3600 cl 16, 5700xt red dragon, 750w focus plus gold psu. I'm using the stock cooler. I ran cinibench and it was only about 100-200 points above the 1700x this seemed odd to me. I checked and my memory was at 3200 cl 25! I looked up how to fix this, i had to take the option off of auto and choose 3600 in the bios to activate the xmp( this kit is on the qvl). And it seems to be working. My real issue is I have never had a high end mobo before, should I be leaving everything o N auto or do I need to change settings to get the expected performance from my cpu? I'm not wanting to oc i just want it to act like it should. Also i noticed the voltage says 1.4** when in the os using asus ai program not even doing any stress tests. My old msi crap board for my 2500k was default settings unless I changed something. This asus board seems like it's doing things and I dunno what to turn off or let go. Also I tried the tuning wizard and after it loaded my ram was at 3600 but better timings but the system would crash when I ran cinebench. I'm running all auto in bios now except the docp standard needed to get my ram at 3600. Pls help me

I'm looking at getting a Viotek 30 inch 2560 x 1080 ultrawide. It has free sync up to 144hz. My question is if I put it in picture in picture mode to play a game in 16:9 and have like youtube or twitch up in the smaller portion will my game still be running freesynce?

Thank you all this has been very helpful!

This might sound dumb. ... Will all the devices connected to the switch be able to access the internet at the same time or is it like an old HDMI switch where only 1 at a time can connect? And woild they show up on the network as different devices or as 1? I was just gonna throw my old pc in a closet and add a couple large hdds to store my videos and pictures and back up my and my wifes computers so we can access them anywhere in the house.

Yes it has mortared concrete blocks and a stucco finish. Dont think anything could get through the events but maybe small mice or bugs nothing bigger cause I couldnt get my thumb through the vent screens. There is a single coax cable from the box on the outter part of the home, under the house coming up in the living room. There is also a telphone line that goes to 2 places. Is a switch like a splitter basically? That would be more like I had in mind especially if it doesnt need power! My original plan was ro run a wire from every room to the office and connect them directly to the nighthawk. But the wife doeant want that mana cord sticking out.

I am buying a new house and,iy only has cable(and therefore internet) in one room. I want to do 4k streaming in my living room and have wired access to my pc, Xbox, and a makeshift nas with my old computer. These things will be in 3 different rooms. I have a crawl space under the house I was gonna run a cat 6 line to each room,under the house and use a wired router to connect them together then to the wireless router/cable modem I have. Ive never done,amything like this before and was wondering is it ok to have the wired router in my crawlspace and just the wireless one in the house? Does the wired,one,need to,be reset a lot like some wireless routers? What type of cable is best/affordable for this, what wired router etc... Is there software i need to help set this up? Any help is great! I currently use a netgear nighthawk,router ac1900 and my cable company supplied modem. My internet is 400Mbs. If that info,helps.

So after reading all y'alls replys( thank you) I think I'm going to try getting a new psu, maybe also a used i7. Locally I can get 2nd hand a i7 3770 non k for 80 bucks and a 1050w toughpower(thermaltake) for 70. My only concern is that if it's the board I waste 80 bucks but I can reuse the psu. Or should I just get a newer good psu like a seasonic focus gold or a corsair rx850 for 100-140?

Im still using a Diablotek 750w psu I got back then lol I pretty much cheaper out on everything but cpu and GPU back then. I'm just trying to make this rig last till zen 2 hits then I figure ill grab a 6c/12t zen 2 and it should be similar to an 8700k if the leaks are true. Though I would expect to pay 250ish for it instead of the sub 200 prices I've seen speculated. And tips on making this last 2 more month's? I might try a psu,since I wanted a 750w gold to support a vega vii I plan on getting when the new cpus are out.

I have had a i5-2500k since 2012. It's been oced almost the whole time. Under win 7 I had it to 4.8 all the time at 1.35v but after win10 for some reason it wasn't stable so I had to dumb it down to 4.6. Then like 6 months ago,it started hanging a lot so I ended up putting it to auto voltage. Now in the past 2 months ive been getting clock watchdog BSODs like every other day. I googled it and just says update drivers and bios or go back to last working ones.... Ive had the up to date ones for years so i dunno what to do!?!? Thanks for any help!

Get an intel 660p they are cheaper than most m.2 sata drives but perform about 3 times better(for when you do move those big files) a 1tb is about $120 USD and the 500gb ones were about $70 USD. Sorry dunno the currency exchange rate. Or try the new wd blue nvme ones. They are about same,price as sata drives too.

According to GN review there is a screw that goes into the psu to hold the cover on, so no way to re-use it without nodding in some way.