Curdmanthedude

Alright, thank you so much!

For 1440p at 60fps? Either card will work just fine. However, if you want to run at higher refresh rates at 1440p, such as144hz, in most games and be able to do the same in titles to come - I would go for the 3070Ti when you find it for the right price. If you have to wait more than a month for the price to drop to whatever you find personally reasonable, I also see nothing significantly wrong with going with the 3060 Ti, although, I would avoid the stock 3060 at all costs if you can. Love from the USA!

Greetings all, I don't usually work with RGB components when building systems, but while building a system for a friend, I connected a 4-pin 12v RGB fan from a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black RGB to a 5v 3-pin ARGB header on an MSI B550 Gaming Plus motherboard. I realized my mistake once I realized the LEDs were dim and not detectable in software. Essentially, did I damage either the fan (which requires 12 volts on its 4 pin RGB female connector as I understand it, yet the LEDs still work) or the board (which supplies 5 volts from the 3-pin ARGB male connector) by undervolting the fan on the wrong connector? Did I damage, by any chance the power supply (EVGA SuperNOVA GT 650w) as well? All parts are functioning normally, however, the distinct 'click' the power supply makes when it shuts down is quiter now... Perhaps that is simply my irrational fear of EVGA units since I've seen one blow up before. Any help is appreciated, friends.

Thanks for the advice! Im not terribly used to forums such as this, even after so many years, so im doing this now. I tried the method you laid out to no avail. Are there any other methods, or should I wipe? Im still suspicious of this being malware, if of course this isnt a widespead Win 10 bug :/

Ive never signed in with a work or school account, I have actively avoided doing so fearing this would happen.

Hello all, I was going to update Windows today, per usual, and I noticed that my organization (of which there is none) disabled automatic updates. I am very proactive with my system security and whatnot, so this is very concerning news, as it looks as if its a form of Malware, as I have not touched any settings relating to system updates. I have attatched screenshots, what do you all think it is? Should I wipe my system? I am currently running an Avast virus scan as I write this, so I genuinely hope I dont have to wipe this system. Thank you all!

Thanks mate!

Stupid question, probably, but is this specific listing an international or US model? Link: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Xperia-II-Unlocked-Smartphone/dp/B08JCWLB3B/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GPSPYXWAQK09&dchild=1&keywords=sony%2Bxperia%2B5%2Bii&qid=1618262656&sprefix=sony%2Bxperia%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1&th=1 Thanks in advance!

Yeah brother! I main him in Melee

Im considering purchasing a Western Digital WD_BLACK SN750 500gb M.2 SSD for my MSI Z170A Gaming M5 motherboard, since my old Kingston SSD died a few days ago. Stupid question, in all likelihood it is, but will this SSD fit in the M.2 slot on this board? More importantly, is it compatible? I checked all of these things myself, but for a sanity check, I wanted to ask the community here. Here are links to the product pages for each part: Motherboard: https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/Z170A-GAMING-M5/Specification SSD: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-black-sn750-nvme-ssd#WDS250G3X0C Thank you all in advance! :D

I wouldn't. Remember, Nvidia mobile (Max-Q & Max-P) optimized cards (and even desktop cards in laptops) take a while to release ahead of their full-fat desktop counterparts, a good while after launch most of the time. It would be too long a wait to justify in my opinion, unless you are willing to wait roughly 6 months for laptops with those parts to appear in the wild. Also, as long as the monitor on it is IPS, it should be fine for most things!

I agree. I recommended them based on their reputation for reliability of their more popular models (gold and above) Brand name alone does not necessitate quality or reliability (OP's Corsair unit, for example). The PSU tier list is an excellent source for solid information on power supply quality. And thanks for putting up a link to the tier list man

No problem man! Even here in the US, I dont have any Microcenters in my area, so I feel your pain man . From experience, I had an EVGA 600w white label power supply that (quite literally) blew up while running Goat Simulator on an overclocked i5 (lol). I also had numerous instances of my system not booting whatsoever with that power supply no matter what I did. As soon as I swapped out that PSU for a Be Quiet! 850w 80+ Platinum unit, I have had smooth sailing since . Moral of the story: never cheap out on power supplies, the heart of your system should always run clean and efficiently.

Im no expert, but that power supply isn't particularly well known for its reliability. While it may not solve the issue, I would take your core system components into a Microcenter or somewhere to have them tested on a different power supply. If you are considering buying a new power supply, I highly recommend either Seasonic or Be Quiet! models. As a reminder, be sure to try the original bios the board shipped with on the 1600 and run stress tests while you're at it to ensure component stability. (Edit: always buy 80+ Bronze or above power supplies, you dont want to mess with white labels) Hope it helps!