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About Mbrown278

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  1. Hi all, Not sure if this is in the correct section so apologies if not. I have tried to find something that would clarify or help but can't quite get the answer I need. I am looking to get a pair of glasses which I can use as a computer screen. I don't need them to be smart/interactive etc but if they are then that would be fine. I have a decent PC which I use for a cycling programme called Zwift and have been considering getting a bigger monitor - potentially 4K (my current monitor is 19"). Does anyone know/can recommend a pair of glasses which can be used to stream the feed from my PC instead of getting a new monitor? The room I use when cycling is pretty small hence why I am looking to save space but still improve the experience. I understand there are VR headsets which would work but this would not be particularly practical due to the size/weight and amount of sweat they would probably cause. Thanks all
  2. Thanks for confirming, I do have a graphics card, i guess I could still just go for the 3770k and leave at stock for a bit more performance, the 3770k has 8 threads/ 4 cores and it’s clock speed is the same as a Xeon e3 1275 v2 (the best my motherboard states it will support) looking at the performance difference-is there one between the 3770k and this Xeon?
  3. Sorry all, yes it’s the H61m-itx and is 2nd and 3rd gen compatible. so do we think a 3770k could be OC’d?
  4. Hi all, I have an AS Rock H61m-itx board with a 3470 cpu. I am considering getting a 3770k but it’s only really worth it if I can overclock. I haven’t overclocked before so am a bit of a noob, I know what to do, but can it be done with my motherboard? I understand I could buy the cpu and test it, but to save £100 I’m trying to confirm first. I have uploaded a pic of my bios, which has the option to take ratio off auto but can’t test with my current cpu. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
  5. Hi all, I have searched everywhere and can't seem to find anything specific to this issue so any help would be appreciated. I am in the process of setting up a 2nd monitor (in my garage) for my PC (in my living room) to allow me to use my main PC for a cycling programme (Zwift) using a turbo trainer. I have tested the setup and my GPU runs up to 99% usage depending on how many people are in shot on Zwift. Current main PC spec: 7700k EVGA 1060 6GB mini 16gb ram (2 x 8gb) My monitor in the garage is 60hz and my main monitor at my pc is 144hz. Whilst running afterburner/rivatuner it displays on my 60hz monitor that I am putting out the 144 fps that I have capped for my main monitor. It clearly won't be showing the 144hz on my 60hz monitor, but is my gpu throwing out 144fps for both monitors and is there any way to divide this so it only puts out 60 to my 60hz and 144 to my main 144hz ,monitor? This will hopefully prevent the GPU from maxing out whilst using zwift, lower temps and could more likely allow for the PC to be used at 144hz by someone else whilst I'm zwifting on the 2nd monitor. Temps aren't too bad currently but I'm looking to put the whole setup in a smaller sff PC so could be vital to keep it as low as possible Thanks all
  6. There are no options for cable routing unfortunately. I've looked a bit at Chromecast and it seems to stream video's/apps straight from the internet fine but there is an issue with good quality decent frame rates from a PC, don't quite understand why but thats all I can find from reviews etc
  7. Hi all, So I have a reasonably decent computer as my main computer 7700k, 1060, 16gb ram and m.2 240gb ssd. I use an app called Zwift in my garage and currently have a basic computer setup to run zwift and a dvd/film on two monitors in the garage. What would be the best and cheapest way to setup 2 wireless monitors in the garage to my main computer? Distance is approx 8m to my main computer (through a wall) or it is about 4 m from my garage setup to my router (again through a wall). This would mean I'd only need 1 PC and can focus on keeping that at a decent spec rather than two. I could just transfer the computer but this is a pain to do each time I want to use zwift. Thanks all!
  8. So... slight update. I tried the HDPlex which kept failing for some reason, so I have returned it. To make this easier I decided just to go down the M-ITX route, although bigger would allow a much easier setup and less risk of power issues with M.2 adapters etc etc. So spec now is an Asrock H270 AC/ITX motherboard, 2 x 8gb Ballistix sport DDR4 2400 ram, an M.2 240GB SSD, a 300w flex atx psu, i7 7700k CPU, Noctua L9i CPU cooler, and for the graphics card, as the games I play aren't too demanding I went for a low profile 1050ti. This time I added a sheet of perspex as the middle support for the motherboard and to prevent shorting with the gpu/psu. I have had to remake the case and the size is now slightly bigger but measures 11.5cm x 20cm x 18.75 approx, so about 4.3 litres. In terms of benchmarks, I can get 2112 on Novabench, this is 1080 CPU, 259 ram, 700 GPU and 73 disk score. I've still got more to do, such as corner pieces at the front and to drill a hole for the power button, but its almost complete. I also have the rear IO cover which will fit in place. Pics below
  9. So I have now fitted the sides, which allowed me to see I could still shift the motherboard over by 5mm to give me more space on the GPU side. PSU still undecided, I have had some good responses from Overtek and Seasonic regarding the Flex, and am currently making enquiries regarding step up options to 19v. I'll set both the Flex ATX and the HD Plex 160 up to see which works best and what I am happy with regarding cables/switches etc etc. Updated pics:
  10. From reviewing this I am not sure the Flex ATX psu is worth getting for the added issues. Does anyone have any experience with the exp gdc 9.5 GPU dock? I could go back to using the HDPlex 160, and just power the exp gdc with the 8 pin cable provided, no other cables etc needed, and I can jump the HDPlex with a pin provided with the kit. I would then use the original power cable for the motherboard and a kettle lead to the HDPlex 160. I could even put a splitter on the kettle lead so I still only have one plug powering the external and internal power supply (just with two connections to the computer)
  11. I guess I could do the paper clip jump but with a couple of wires and a switch instead, I’ve also emailed seasonic to see if there are any other ways round it i wonder whether if I got a 12v to 19v step up and connected it to the psu/barrel connector on the motherboard whether that would start up the psu on switching on the motherboard
  12. I still have the power button which is working if that's what you mean? There was a jumper that came with the HDPlex, but I don't know if something similar is required for the Flex ATX PSU? Or is there something else I'm forgetting? excuse my level of knowledge - am quite new to this
  13. Thanks, as I say a bit more amateur than the thread that gave me the idea, but made very easily with aluminium angle and some rivets Some interesting options, but at least there are options which is what I was struggling to get my head round, thanks for the links I've been looking at the 12v to 19v step up options - what is the reason for not being able to use those that are labelled as automotive? Would something like this be suitable? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC12V-Step-Up-To-19V-Voltage-8A-152W-Power-Supply-Converter-Regulator-Fine-/253055447736?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 Just need to find one as small as possible if I go that route, Thanks again
  14. So I have built a custom case, first time I've done one so it's not perfect and its not quite finished. It's also not quite as small as it could be, but I'm pleased. It's 10.8cm wide x 20cm tall x 16cm deep. Picture below with a 15cm ruler to give an idea of size. I know that the GPU's i'm looking at are about 17cm deep, so I am either going to put a spacer at the rear to set it back or create a 1cm 'power bulge' type thing at the front. I have more of the grill that I used on the top and will be using it for the sides, and I still need to make the rear and fix the front on, tidy the hole for the front ports, and fit the PSU and GPU
  15. So I started writing this: So I will still use the external power for the computer and the HDPlex 160 (which max can go to 200w) just for the GPU. So a total of 320w of power. That should be enough. If I started over again I probably would get the Flex ATX PSU, the only thing is that it doesn't have a 19v output so I would still have to use the external power brick also. Then I actually just bought a flex atx 300w PSU - lols. Arrives in the next 4 days The only thing is that, although it will fit perfectly in the case and could provide sufficient power for the whole thing, because the motherboard requires a 19v input, I would still need to use the external power brick.....but...I have been mucking about trying to find suitable cables/adapters etc with no luck and the flex ATX psu has every connector I need for the M.2 to PCIe riser, and for the GPU, so atleast I can do it hassle free, and sell the HD plex 160 which will probably recover the money just spent on the Flex. Thanks for giving me a nudge, I had only discovered the Flex a week ago and was kicking myself I hadn't seen it earlier. Main reason I went for the 300w was the positioning of the cables coming out vertically which will take up less space in the case, and will easily power a riser/gpu requiring 120w for 1060 mini or up to a 1080, we shall see Thanks