Idk, personally I don't want to work with acrylic unless I have the right tools that pro modders have. Like bending hard tube or sleeving cables, there just really aren't good alternatives. I think I'll try the PVC thing. Let you know how it turns out!
VGA 1 and 2 are for the graphics card, it;s okay if not all wires are plugged into the gpu side, they usually are split to work that way since different cards need different amounts of power. Also, you can use either 1 or 2, doesn't matter.
Same thing with CPU, either 1 or 2 works, and they're usually split. Your motherboard connects with 8 pin connector.
SATA is for plugging in sata power plugs into hard drives, SSD's, etc. PERIF is for molex connectors. Things that connect to molex are LED's, water pumps, some fans, etc.
USB colors are never really the same, so check the manual / specs. But the general color scheme is that USB 2.0 is just black, USB 3.0 is blue, and USB 3.1 is red. But like I said, the conventions aren't always followed. Sometimes all ports are black just because. Razor usually makes all of their ports green because they hate us (jk, but it is annoying).
NZXT is pretty good, much cleaner than Corsair, but Corsair is less expensive. Check out a Micro Center if you're near one, and Newegg, both of their sites have awesome search filtering! Also, Fractal Design
Not sure if "not making one out of an old case and wood" just means you don't like that particular design, or you don't wanna DIY it, but since test benches are a fairly niche application, you may have some trouble finding one for under $50. I myself have made a test bench for around $35, made entirely out of sheet aluminium and steel threaded rods and such. I'll be making a video on how to make it soon, but:
How to make the Alubench V2.0
Buy:
A ~600x900mm piece of sheet aluminium (at least 0.8mm thick)
A 1m (or longer) M10 threaded rod
8 M10 nuts
8 M10 washers
A 1m (or longer) 10mm ID aluminium tube
A 3.5" drive bay (I got mine from an old case)
A bunch of motherboard standoffs (you can get 100 M3 ones off Ebay for $5 with accompanying M3 nuts)
Some M3 6mm bolts
Some M3 nuts
Tools:
Manditory:
A drill or drill press (with a 10.5mm, and 3mm drill bit) - a dril press will have more torque and be faster, but both will suffice)
A screwdriver
A centrepunch (3mm)
Something to bend metal (I used a magnabend, but when it comes down to it you can use any old sheet metal bender or even a table vice and some patience)
Aviation cutters or a guillotine
A hacksaw
A ruler
A scribe or whiteboard/permanent marker
Table vice
Hammer
Eye protection (glasses or goggles)
Useful:
Rivets and a pop-riveter
A 90mm fan
A gooseneck phone holder off ebay (able to hold phones upto 90mm wide)
A nibbler
A guillotine (the kind for cutting sheet metal)
A G or F clamp, or a spring clamp
Method:
1) Mark the sheet metal down the centre, dividing it into 2 separate pieces, each measuring 600x450mm. Cut down the line using guillotine or aviation cutters. This may take a while. If using cutters, this may warp the metal. That can be corrected with a hammer or a vice. If you have a power nibbler, it can also be used on this step instead of the cutters.
2) Using table vice, secure threaded rod and cut into 4 equally sized rods. For a 1m long rod, cut 4 200mm lengths of rod.
3) Secure aluminium tube in table vice and cut into nine pieces. For a 1m long threaded rod, cut 8 20mm pieces, and 4 100mm pieces.
4) Mark where EATX standoffs need to go on one of the 2 pieces of metal with either a scribe or a marker pen. Try and align the I/O of the motherboard about 20mm away from the edge, and ensure it is at least 30mm from any corner. This will be your top plate.
5) Centrepunch the markings you just made by aligning the centrepunch with the marking, and striking the top of the centrepunch with a hammer. ONLY HIT THE CENTREPUNCH ONCE, OTHERWISE YOU WILL WARP THE METAL. Now drill through the centrepunched hole with the 3mm drill bit.
6) On the top plate, mark each corner with a point 25mm in from each side. Centrepunch the markings. Then stack the top and bottom plate (top on top) and try to ensure they stay atop each other (you can use your clamp, if you have one). Use the 10.5mm drill bit to create a hole in the same spot on both plates. Do this to all 4 corner markings.
7) On each edge of each plate, make a line 8mm from the edge, stretching along the entire edge. Use your nibblers or tin snips to cut 8mm or more out of each corner. Then either:
a) Align the marked line with the bending point of your magnabend/other bending tool of choice, and bench to about 90 degrees.
b) Align the marked line with the top of you vice grip then hand bend it to ~90 degrees.
Repeat this step for 8 more times. For the top plate, on the side the motherboard I/O is facing, you will need to flatten the 90 degree fold into a 180. You can do this with either the table vice or a hammer. Do not do this for any other sides.
8) PSU mounting! There are a number of ways you can do this - though for both the PSU will need to be recessed to accommodate the bends:
a) I used some scrap aluminium, drilled the appropriate holes in it and bent it and riveted it to the bottom. - this is not the best option
b) You could also find markings for PSU bottom screw holes, then centrepunch and use the 3mm drill bit to create holes. - This is probably more sensible, though more difficult to mount the psu
9) For the HDD mount, it will depend on what bracket you intend to use. All I can say is that you can probably drill some 3mm holes on the bottom plate, then secure the HDD bracket with M3 nuts and bolts.
10) Using the holes drilled into the top plate on step 5, attach the motherboard standoffs (the ebay ones are M3 threaded and come with M3 nuts). Where the graphics card it located, you will need to cut an intent so the plate does not interfere with the I/O bracket on the GPU.
11) Add any modifications. I added a https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gooseneck-Bendable-Aluminum-Long-Arm-Phone-Mount-Holder-Double-V-Clip-Black-EV/263684107356?hash=item3d64cc2c5c:g:BiMAAOSwA3dYavtH gooseneck arm holding a 90mm fan, for flexible cooling. You may want to add radiator mounting, which can be done any number of ways, which include using sheet aluminium tabs.
12) Attach all hardware except radiator and GPU. Get a piece of threaded rod and screw a nut about 10mm up the rod. Repeat this for each rod.
13) Put a washer atop the nut. Put a 20mm piece of aluminium tube atop the nut. Repeat for each rod.
14) [repeat the following for each rod] Put the bottom plate on, then put the 100mm piece on top of that, then put on the top plate, then put on another 20mm piece of aluminium tub, then put a washer, then put the other nut. Hand tighten, until there is fairly little flex. Put on your GPU and/or radiator.
15) Plug everything in and short the power I/O pins with a screwdriver. Enjoy your new bench!
Notes:
The sheet aluminium may be harder to come by, as it is often only sold in specialist shops. Most hardware stores only stock 0.5mm thick sheets, which is not thick enough for this application.
Generally schools and Unis will have workshops which are stocked with all the required tools.
Photos are of the Alubench V1, which is smaller and designed slightly differently.
For finding motherboard standoff points, I used https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmods/comments/1chkph/i_made_an_atx_motherboard_mount_template_would/this template, by centrepunching through a printoff of it. I cannot find any equivalents for EATX.
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