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Alexb770

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About Alexb770

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    Newbie
  1. I'm considering picking up ASUS' STRIX OC model, but news around it and its power requirements are making me nervous. I've checked the requirements on ASUS' website and they recommend 750 watts, but there have been some articles that seem to hint that might not be enough. Also, I found a post on the Best Buy page for the strix and it reads as follows: According to independent contracted testers, the latest model of the TUF card has two of the 10 MCLL caps the same as EVGA FW3 Flagship model and the Nvidia Founder Editions. The ROG Strix 3080 and 3090 models rumored to have all SIX, 10 MCLL caps. ASUS forum moderators who have had the opportunity to test the card along with a couple of well known youtubers have confirmed in similar post. As well as double down on consumers will need 850 watt gold power supply as minimum, and high recommend a 1000 watt power house from well known manufacturers to run the ROG Strix version of the cards. It is also recommend if you already have the watts in your current power supply it should be less than a year old. I've been following this pretty closely as a run a gaming community with roughly 1000 plus members. A lot of new players with COV low end budget builds, basically trying throw 1500 horsepower engine into Pinto in hopes they can call it a supercar. TLDR: ASUS forum mods are saying you'll probably need at least 850 watts, which is contradictory to what ASUS has been saying. I'm currently running a Corsair RM 750i gold+, and it's about a year old now. I'd say it's been used fairly extensively, as I've been running overnight AFK farms in games since around June. Would I be okay to get this card, or should I opt for another one? I'm kind of set on this one since it's the highest clocked version so far and I really like the design.
  2. Thank you very much sir, your SATA port fix did the trick Not sure which port I put into, but I don't really care As for the Ethernet, all i had to do was go to Gigabyte's site and download the drivers. Everything is working and I can finally sleep
  3. Hi, Just rebuilt my PC last night with mostly new components. It's fine for the most part, but the computer isn't recognizing my 2TB hard drive or my Ethernet cable. Now, I have 3 drives: a 1TB SSD, a 1TB HDD, and a 2TB HDD. Both of the hard drives are recycled from my last build and worked just fine prior in said build. The SSD is new. Windows was originally on the 1TB drive and is now on the SSD. The night before I rebuilt, I formatted the 2TB drive. The only thing I can think of is that this is an issue at the hardware level, because I noticed when booting into the BIOS, the BIOS didn't even have my 2TB listed. Problem is, I have no idea what could be missing. I noticed that there's one slot with two little prongs (not sure what the proper name is for those), but my 1TB also has an unplugged port and it's fine. As for the Ethernet cable, I'm completely at a loss. Like my drive, it worked fine on my other PC. My motherboard even has an Ethernet LED that lets you know if it's receiving/transmitting data, and the LED is letting me know that it's doing so. Checking Device Manager wasn't much help, as it had nothing related to an Ethernet device anywhere. The only thing I can think of is maybe updating the BIOS, but even then I'm not sure. Maybe there are specific Ethernet drivers I need to download? Just spitballing some ideas here, I've never heard of a PC not working with Ethernet. PC Specs: Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Master CPU: i7 9700KF RAM: 16GB HyperX Predator DDR4 3200MHz CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken x62 Storage: 1TB Seagate, 2TB Hitachi, 1TB Samsung 970 Evo SSD (Don't know exact model names for hard drives) GPU: EVGA 1080 Ti SC2 PSU: Corsair RM750i Case: Anidees AI CRYSTAL XL AR 3 If pictures would be helpful, let me know and I'll get whatever you need. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps.
  4. I wouldn't be surprised if the problem is my power supply. Many people have told me mine is low quality
  5. Any idea what could have caused that? Just an FYI, I was still getting an image when I got the DX error message. Also, the card's RGB is still coming on when I boot the PC up. I'll try taking the card to my friend's house later today and test it out on his monitor.
  6. Hi, I started up Battlefield 4 and went AFK for a bit. When I came back, I noticed I had a black screen and, upon Alt+Tabbing, saw that there was a DirectX error message. Alt+F4 wouldn't close the program and I was forced to restart. When my PC booted back up, the monitor produces red, green, blue, white, and black screens in regular intervals. This has been normal for the past several months, but it always produces an image once Windows eventually boots up. Further soft resets and hard restarts haven't fixed the problem, and I think the computer might not even be booting up to Windows (aside from my monitor, the RGB on my mouse is another way for me to tell if Windows is up). PC specs: CPU: R7 2700X (stock clocks) CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 Mobo: MSI B350 Gaming Plus PSU: EVGA Supernova 750W Bronze RAM: 16GB DDR4 2667 MHz GPU: EVGA 1080Ti SC2 Monitor: Dell S2417DG Storage: One 1TB HDD and one 2TB HDD My GPU drivers should be up-to-date as I just recently updated them, unless there has been another driver update after the Battlefield 5 raytracing optimization patch. There was an issue downloading this driver where I had an error message Everytime I started up GeForce Experience, but a YouTube video helped me get that fixed. Not sure if that has anything to do with this problem, but it might be good to know.
  7. Interesting, didn't know the cores were running different voltages like that. So I should probably revert the voltage change to the stock settings? Also, when you say I need a fan blowing on the VRM, I assume you're saying take off the side panel and get a fan to blow on it? Would that create issues with dust? My case is an NZXT S340 by the way.
  8. I see, I didn't know that. If I wanted to overclock, would a 4.0 or 3.9 GHz OC be acceptable? The thing is, my CPU's stock voltage was much higher than what it's at right now. Originally it was running at around 1.45v which seemed pretty high to me, but I've dialed it down to 1.35, and I believe I've had it stable at lower voltages as well, somewhere in the 1.3v range.
  9. Thanks, just saw an LTT video on supplies and they plugged this site in it. What exactly is wrong with overclocking on a B350? I know the newest motherboards have features that are related to overclocking, but are those necessary for overclocking? And do you mean I shouldn't overclock because it's potentially harmful or because it could just be a waste?
  10. So I'm looking for a new power supply to start overclocking my CPU. I've been told on more than one occasion that my current PSU is kinda junky due to high amounts of ripple. Current specs: Mobo: MSI B350 Gaming Plus CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X (3.7 GHz @ 1.35v) GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC2 PSU: EVGA Supernova NEX750B CPU cooler: Corsair H60 liquid cooler (will be replaced with a Kraken x62) Storage: 1x1TB HDD, 1x2TB HDD RAM: 16GB DDR4@2667MHz Not really worried about wattage as my rig- according to the Cooler Master wattage calculator- will only use 640 watts at load (this is accounting for the OC). I'm guessing I just need a supply with a higher efficiency rating? Or is there something more to eliminating ripple?
  11. So I've been messing with overclocked for the first time these past two days and was wanting some feedback on it. I'm using a Ryzen 7 2700X, Corsair H60 liquid cooler, and EVGA Supernova NEX750B (yes, I know it's not a good PSU. I've been told that many times and will be changing it soon). My motherboard is an MSi B350 Gaming Plus and have 16GB of DDR4 rated at 2666MHz. The RAM has also been overclocked and is sitting at its rated speed and 1.2v. It was originally running at 2133MHz. Something to note before I start, is that when I first started OC'ing, my BIOS numbers and Ryzen numbers weren't matching up. BIOS had my clock speed at 3.7 GHz (stock) and my voltage quite high (>1.4v, I don't remember the exact value). RM had my clock speed at 4075MHz but it was fluctuating, as well as my voltage which I believe was around 1.3v. I tried several different combinations, eventually settling on 4.0 GHz (yes, I went down) at 1.35v. I wasn't happy with this as I felt my performance was actually lower than before I had begun changing things. This was based on eyeballing my frame counter in a few games I frequently play as well as what appeared to be stuttering that I didn't have before. Temps at these settings during the RM stress test never exceeded 75°C. This was measured with MSi Afterburner, but Ryzen Master never showed a temp higher than 66. Just thought I should note that discrepancy. Today, I changed my clock speed to 4.1GHz and the voltage to 1.2v. I was expecting a blue screen, but after stress testing a few times with RM, it seemed as if it worked and my OC was good. I guess I was wrong because my computer has frozen twice with these settings. It didn't blue screen, just froze. I had to manually turn the computer off both times with the power button. I'm assuming this is a problem with the voltage. Again, the voltage was over 1.4v when I started, but numerous people have said that is pretty high for stock, and my earlier OC of 4.0GHz@1.4v was stable, albeit a bit sluggish. I'm currently running 4.1GHz@1.35v and have yet to freeze. Temps were identical to when I was running 4.0GHz@1.35v. Again, I'm mainly wondering if there are any issues I need to address hardware wise (PSU I know) as well as clock speed and voltage wise. I'd also like to know if my temps are okay. I've heard you don't need to worry until reaching the mid 80s to low 90s. The freezes also have me a bit concerned. Lastly, sorry for the wall of text
  12. You're not the first person on these forms that's told me that. What power supply would you recommend?
  13. What exactly do you mean by "motherboard will have to pick up more slack from ripple"?
  14. Interesting you say nothing over 1.4 volts. My stock voltage on BIOS is actually higher than that. Ryzen master is saying otherwise though. I currently have things at 4075 MHz and 1.33125 volts. The Ryzen Master stress test was successful and I've been using PlanetSide 2 (probably not the best idea now that I think about it given how sporadic performance can be) as a game stress test. I also found out that my memory has been running under speed the whole time I've had it. It's rated at 2666 MHz but my BIOS had it at 2133 MHz. I jumped it up to 2667 and so far it seems fine. Also, CPU temps never went higher than 67 C during the stress test.
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