OllieJ_

ah yeah sorry, 1440p. CPU never goes above 75% and is usually around 50-60% usage whatever settings. plus there's benchmarks using the 1600 getting 200+ fps. https://www.gpucheck.com/compare-game-cpu/call-of-duty-modern-warfare-2019/amd-ryzen-5-1600-vs-amd-ryzen-5-1600

So, I have a Ryzen 5 1600, 16gb ram and a 980ti (desktop). I'm new to high refresh rate gaming, and yes I've made sure windows is set to 144hz and up to date drivers. I'm playing modern warfare a lot recently, and cannot, for the life of me, get it to 144hz. My ram never maxes out with several gigs of headroom so it isn't that. CPU fluctuates between 45 and 75% utilisation, and GPU pinning to 100% (in game reading VRAM Usage is less than 75% as well) . So it's a GPU bottleneck. Problem is, at minimum settings I'm getting between 70 and 150 fps (max staring at a rock) usually around the 100 fps range, with everything cranked to higher or ultra 60 to 100 fps (hovering around 70fps). Benchmarks of modern warfare for both CPU and GPU seem to agree with the fps I'm getting at high / ultra settings. But benchmarks show I should get averages of 200+ fps with my hardware in modern warfare. And forgetting benchmarks, the drop in performance does not seem realistic considering the drop in visual fidelity between max and min settings (or conversely as I'm trying, the fps gains I'm getting by destroying graphic quality is pitiful) . also in-game limits/targets are for 144hz so it isn't that. I've done a clean install of the game and I've even done a "reset this PC" through windows to uninstall everything and start again, to no avail. Anyone have any idea why I'm not getting much performance improvement even when I bring everything down/off to help out my gpu?

So my current build is a ryzen 5 1600, with stock cooling, b350 motherboard, sata SSD and NVME SSD, plenty of PSU overhead and unused power cable for more power demanding graphics card, 16gb of ram. So all of that is fine for me for now, as I game at 60fps 1080p ultrawide (so frame-rate is a bit worse that normal testing at 1080p on online benchmarks). It'll be another year or more before I can afford a decent 1440p high refresh monitor and gpu to match. I currently have a GTX 1060 6Gb graphics card, and I'm looking on ebay and 980 ti's are currently selling for about the same as 1060's, maybe £30 more. I'm thinking about buying a 980ti as an upgrade and selling my 1060 so the cost to upgrade is maybe £40 at the most with postage and ebay's sales cut. The 980ti outperforms the 1060 by quite a margin on online benchmarks (as you would expect as they're only 1 generation apart) is there anything I'm missing such as potential driver compatibility with modern games (?) or anything that would make the 1060 worth keeping over a 980ti? or do you guys recon to go for it even though it's a generational downgrade? (I know I'll be "loosing" ray-tracing compatibility, but on a 1060 that's a "pretty screenshot feature" at best). Thanks for any input.

This gave me access to my access points UI and thus changing settings, thank you very much (and everyone else that chipped in). I think I understand how the IP address works a bit better now (brwainer's comment explained it well too). THANK YOU!!!! (again), I love this community.

I don't have access to the access point though any ui. the IP on the access point is 192.168.10.1 as shown in the picture, but going to there does nothing. I don't think there are any conflicts, does something in my screen shot need adjusting for it?

So the unit has printed on it Default IP: 192.168.10.1 going there does nothing. There are three devices in the DHCP table, one my phone, and two desktops (only 1 desktop linked to my knowledge so not sure where that's coming from) the IP's for all three don't do anything either. the access point I'm using looks exactly like the one listed, but bought from another listing which isn't available any more.

Which ui are you referring to?

I've spent hours googling and farting about looking through settings, unplugging things, changing how things are connected and I'm not getting anywhere. My Problem: I want to change my wifi access point's SSID and password (currently no password making my network open!). My set up: I have a BT home hub 3 on one end of my house providing wifi to most of my things, and then an ethernet cable from this to the other end of the house, where it is split by a TP-Link switch, so I have an ethernet connection to my PC and an ethernet connection to a Wifi access point (something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Laptone-LNP2603-300Mbs-WiFi-Range-Extender-Router-UK-Plug/1039746234?iid=273558485689), so my ps4, switch, phone etc can get decent wifi signal. So currently the wifi access point is just called "WIFI AP", and has no password, it works just fine except that 1) anybody can access my network, and 2) I want to have the same SSID and password as the router so devices can migrate between them seamlessly (and hopefully get my google home smart speakers to play nicely together). I can get full access to my home hub through http://192.168.1.254/ as would be expected, but can't get a similar settings for the wifi access point, anybody got any advice how to do so?.

Basically, I'm looking for a UV LED strip which ideally I can adjust the brightness, but at the least turn on and off. I can't see any UV strips with that ability but I do see other LEDs that do. So my plan is to take one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Sleeved-LED-Kit-Green/dp/B0046Y15ZA/ref=sr_1_11?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1536679426&sr=1-11&keywords=nzxt+led, cut the LED's off (I want the on/off toggle) and cut the molex connectors off these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ubanner-Flexible-Computer-Lighting-Magnetic/dp/B07B3PW99D/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536679460&sr=8-6&keywords=uv+led+strip and attach the UV lights to the PCI-e bracket switch (strip the wires a bit, attach together and insulate I assume?). Am I completely naive about these things, or is there no reason that wouldn't work? They are both ultimately powered through molex. Or even better, anybody know of a UV light strip that can be turned off without popping off the case side panel and unplugging the molex cable? (UK, so US import probably not worth it).

So I'm building my first PC in a few days and just working out the last *little* detail, the OS. I'm sure most people here are aware of the "Paul's Hardware" video of Windows 10 for $20... Obviously the cheapest of the codes are OEMs, which I understand and I'm fine with. But my question is what are the consequences if the code you receive is later deactivated (such as you get a volume licensing code that shouldn't really have been sold to you and it expires?) is it as simple as buying another cheap code online and reactivating windows without any re-installation? I'm probably going to get this home edition for £4.09 from ebay if the risks aren't that bad https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windows-10-Home-64-32-bit-Product-Activation-Key-INSTANT-DELIVERY/112890596130?epid=2254347653&hash=item1a48cdcb22#rwid also, say I bought a grey market pro edition now, and in a year it was deactivated, would I need to do a clean install if I bought a home edition key from the official store at full price? Thanks for any advice.

I'm in the process of purchasing all the parts for my first gaming PC, and looking at buying an aftermarket CPU cooler. For background, I'll be getting a Asus ROG STRIX B350-F mother board paired with a Ryzen 5 1600, which comes with a Wraith Spire cooler which I understand is pretty good for a stock cooler. I intend to overclock the CPU, try and get the most out of my hardware, and I've got the ability to get a used Noctua NH-D14 for cheap. I know I'll also have to buy some thermal paste, and probably some alcohol (?) to clean it up before hand which will add a bit more cost/time/effort, and would need an NM-AM4 Mounting-Kit. My question if anyone can advise, is the NH-D14 significantly better than the stock Wraith Spire? (also case will be NZTX S340 Elite, and graphics card GIGABYTE NVIDIA GTX 1060 G1) Thanks

Hi, I'm planning to build my first PC soon, and just looking if anyone has any advice/recommendations about my build plan. My budget is in the £1,000 range, based in the UK, primarily for 1920×1080 60+FPS gaming, I'll probably be either moving to ultrawide or dual monitor when I've got the money and desk space. I've chosen the case with water cooling in mind in the future (I like the idea of keeping the same case for several iterations of the PC. I might also get a single 8GB ram stick, and get a second identical one if/when I notice an issue. or get two 4GB ram sticks and get another two to upgrade), but I like leaving chrome tabs open, so there's that... AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Crucial - MX500 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB G1 Gaming Video Card Fractal Design - Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit TP-Link - TL-WN781ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter Fractal Design - GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan (two intakes, one out, case includes two) PCPartPicker link: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/X2zhgw I know that basically different models/bands of 1060's are basically the same, but as I'd like to do some overclocking does getting a physically larger model give more leg room for overclocking and keeping temps low? (there are some single fan 6GB 1060s for less money). I know the PSU is a little overkill, but after reading some other threads on here I figure the extra rating gives room for future upgrades, and currently more frequent fan-less operation. Oh, and I know WIFI isn't the best for online gaming, but my current setup doesn't really lend itself to wired (separate power system to the main house where the router is so no powerline, and the ethernet cable is to a wifi access point which needs to stay...)