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About DeadnightWarrior

  • Title
  • Birthday 1976-12-18

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 2400G
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-AB350-Gaming
  • RAM
    16Gb DDR4 Patriot Viper 4 3200
  • GPU
    XFX RX580 4Gb GTS
  • Case
    Sharkoon S25-W
  • Storage
    M.2 NVME Adata Gammix S10 128Gb + Toshiba P300 1Tb
  • PSU
    Thermaltake Hamburg 530W 
  • Display(s)
    AOC I2490PXQU
  • Cooling
    Wraith Stealth
  • Keyboard
    Logitech K120
  • Mouse
    Microsoft basic mouse
  • Sound
    the usual integrated Realtek
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 bit

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  1. I hope you're talking about 15000 rpm SAS drives Anyways, the drive I'm after is the Crucial MX500. As an alternative, would the Western Digital Blue or the Silicon Power A55 be a good option? It is not clear IF they have dram cache or not but they do cost up to 20% less where I live.
  2. If you can use another drive, it'll be much safer. If you really want to minimize risks, I believe the best thing would be to take the drive out, connect it with a USB/SATA adapter to another computer and try recovering.
  3. Did he use quick formatting? If so, there's a chance to recover almost everything, using programs like Recuva, GetDataBack and such. DO NOT WRITE ANY DATA ON THE DRIVE before trying! The more you write on it, the less data you can recover... I'm not sure if a full formatting would be as easy to recover, though...
  4. Hi all, I'd like to upgrade my 1Tb HDD to an equally sized SSD. I have an M.2 NVME SSD as boot drive and but there are no more M.2 slots on my motherboard. The SATA SSD will be used as a data / game storage: My Documents, Downloads, Pictures, Steam / Origin folders, etc. Should I buy an SSD with DRAM cache (i.e. Crucial MX500) or not (i.e. Crucial BX500)? I'm guessing any SSD should greatly outperform my current HDD, cache or not... Right?
  5. If for whatever reason your internet connection isn't working AND you have a DVD drive nearby... that's when you might find it useful
  6. So, I have this mainboard that gave me no trouble in the last two years. BIOS is version F42d. The boot drive is a 128Gb NVME Adata SX7000NP "XPG Gammix S10". Some days ago and out of really nowhere, turning the system on results in a "no boot drive" error. If I manually select the "Windows boot manager" option from the F12 menu, it boots fine. What's the deal???
  7. Yeah, but with hundreds of brands and models, someone who's not a PSU expert has to at least start somewhere. I'm no real expert on this matter but I know if I look for, say 80+ certified BeQuiets, EVGAs, Corsairs or Cooler Masters, I'm less likely to end up with a crap product.
  8. Performance wise, such a system should be good for I guess at least 4 / 5 years. You got 24 threads, 64Gb of fast ram and a state of the art motherboard / chipset: it's a pretty solid platform. The only part that could need a replacement down the line is the graphics card (it essentially depends on how demanding the future AAA games will be). Of course I'd first get a better PSU (around 600 watts, 80+ certified, reliable brand, maybe modular if you can).
  9. Sounds good, I might actually buy it then. After all, I've been swearing by Logitech's quality for decades and this model looks like a perfect price / performance balance.
  10. Now, that's interesting. So you're saying that I could install the software only to disable RGb and uninstall it with no consequences?
  11. It is, but the price is a good 30% higher than the G203. Also, I'd prefer a wired mouse as I'd really have no use for a wireless one on my desktop anyways.
  12. Yeah, I know it can be done It just bothers me to have to buy certain features only to disable them, you know?
  13. Where I live the first gen G203 costs about 30€ (~ 35$ including tax) and the 2nd gen is about 35€ (~ 41$ including tax), which is about as high as I would go for a mouse. Keep in mind I've been using a Microsoft Basic mouse for years and I was happy with it!
  14. Hello, plain and simple question. I need to buy a new mouse and I really like the Logitech G203 but I HATE the RGB features. I just want a good, solid, reliable mouse without all this utterly useless lights and possibly without additional software to install. Is there a G203 with no lights, or a good alternative around the same price / performance?
  15. ^^^ this. The 3200G came out way after the A320 chipset. I had to do the same when I bought a B350 motherboard and a 2400G: I bought the cheapest AM4 CPU I could find, dowloaded the latest BIOS from another PC, flashed it on the new mainboard, removed the cheap CPU and returned it to am*zon .