Steve N. Mavronis

I'm looking for recommendations for disk imaging software, particularly ones that allow you to boot it's "rescue media" from USB stick for image backup to another USB external hard drive and image restore from a USB external hard drive. At work I have an "imaged" HP Proliant ML350 Server (replaced an ML340) and Acronis True Image now fails during backups. I also have 2 new HP Elitebook 840 G6 laptops used for industrial PLC programming (tried disabling secure boot too and have USB top of boot order in UEFI) and I can't get them to boot from an external USB slim ASUS optical drive with the Linux-based Acronis rescue media CD (tried 2 disk copies) for backups and restores. So right now I'm looking for alternate disk imaging software that's reliable for disaster recovery situations. I feel dead in the water right now.

This is going to be my cable management raceway layout on the back of the desk. I'll use 8 of the 9 raceways from the kit The top row is for signal/data cables. The bottom row is for the power cables. I'll be pulling the desk out and installing these Saturday.

I just bought the Stageek cable management raceway kit. It has 9 slim raceway channels 15.6” long. For the past year I’ve had velcro on the back of my 55” Ikea Malm desk with all cables secured off the floor with that. So I’m going to use these raceways now instead on the back. I made a graphic mockup below. Do you recommend a top row for just signal cables and a bottom row (and the built-in cable shelf) for power cables? At various points signal and power cables will have to cross at right angles to each other. By the way the Stageek kit is nice except the 6 straight connectors are useless as they aren’t wide enough to snap on the raceways, but the corner pieces fit fine although not sure if I’ll use those.

Okay so I got my PreSonus Eris E3.5 studio monitor speakers today and just played with them. They work good with both the PC and Interface separately. It will play though the Interface with the PC connected also except there is a background hum from the PC. Not sure if I can eliminate that, I remember reading about someone else with that PC hum problem using an interface at the same time. My Scarlett Solo interface is plugged into the speaker's TRS inputs (using a dual TS to dual RCA cable) and the PC is using the supplied dual RCA to 1/8" stereo jack. And yes I'm using the PC's line out from the motherboard. Oh and I also tested the supplied 1/8" stereo cable ith my iPhone using the speaker's front AUX input jack and that worked great. I just tried the straight 1/8" cable from my PC to the front AUX input and the hum is present there with the Interface plugged in to the speakers at the same time. Everything is plugged into the same surge protector. I do have a Furman SS6B 6 Plug Surge Protector EMI/RFI with noise attenuation that I use with my musical gear. I wonder if that would help at all.

I guess it's all those "rear speaker out" messing with me? I just checked because my PC has been hooked up the same for 3 years and the speakers are plugged into the lime green audio output most likely because the connector is green too LOL. I was just consulting the manual and the wording for "speaker" fooled me. I'll see about the studio monitor inputs. Worse case I'll have to unplug the 1/4" TS adapter cable jacks when not using the interface for guitar or use the PC with the front Aux in jack or keep my existing speaker system and use the studio monitors only with the interface. I'll report back what happens after I get them on Wednesday. Googling some answers to related questions on the Presonus website I read the following: But I may be misreading that.

Here's the audio port information from the motherboard manual.

Hmm, thanks I've always used the black output labeled as speaker go figure! My current speaker system is the Logitech x230.

My build uses the ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming motherboard with SupremeFX/RealTek HD audio. I purchased a pair of PreSonus Eris E3.5 Studio Monitors to use with a USB audio recording interface the Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen that uses RCA outputs. They are active powered with their own internal amplifier. The studio monitors has both a pair of RCA and TRS inputs. The box comes with a 1/8" stereo to dual RCA adapter cable, so I ordered a dual TS to dual RCA adapter cable. My plan is to use this cable for the interface to studio monitors and the 1/8" to dual RCA from the PC to the studio monitors. That way I can use them for both PC audio playback, and separately for interface recording playback. My question is which motherboard audio port to use with the active powered studio monitors; the (5) black speaker out or the (7) green line out?

I can get the Acer Predator XB241H 24" 144Hz-180Hz G-sync enabled gaming monitor for $320.94 shipped after discounts on Jet. Should I go for that vs getting the older $250 ASUS VG248QE 144Hz monitor?

I guess I'm in the sub-$300 market right now. What about other ASUS 144Hz 24" monitors or other brands friendly with Nvidia GPU to take full advantage of the features?

When is the newer Viewsonic model expected to be released?

How is this ASUS VG248QE monitor? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2HH7G0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1 Review:

My old LG E2360V LED 23" Widescreen 1920x1080 LCD 60Hz Monitor is starting to repeatedly flash its LG startup logo when powering on. It's happened twice over the weekend so I think it's time to buy a new display. I'm thinking about getting a 24" monitor 144Hz. What's good out there that isn't too expensive around $200 or so? I want a matte finish no glossy plastic dust magnets like the one I have now. Not sure if I want a curved display and don't really need built-in speakers. I'm playing Quake Champions right now. My video card is an EVGA Nvidia GTX 980 Ti Classified.

Besides iPhone pixel quality disadvantage with VR headsets, I'd still like an opinion on Freefly's take on choosing to go with a fixed IPD (pupil distance) and fixed focus wide angle lens headset design. Does their justification make sense? They say it does but I'm not so sure: Otherwise I may order the cheaper Canbor VR headset just to play around with watching 3D videos. Waiting too for Apple to come out with their expected augmented reality system and see what's that is like. I hear they are partnering with HTC.

Yeah this is entry level just to mess around with the effect. I have a 55" HDTV that is 3D ready with glasses and looks so good with a 3D blu-ray movie on the screen just like at the theater. I like the Canbor VR too. I wear glasses and have astigmatism.

So for my birthday my daughter gets me a Utopia 360 headset from a local store. It was cool except I couldn't get a good focus and the Bluetooth remote had its phone selection button jammed on the IOS selection side. At least I have an iPhone 7. The headset had a rubber capped 'finger' that extends with the top action button to tap the screen for next, but that didn't work. So I returned it for a store gift card credit. I want to check out mobile VR no matter how limited that is. I know that iPhone screens aren't the best resolution for mobile VR but that's what I have. So I started looking at sub-$50 VR headset reviews. I'm narrowing down to these 3 so far so what do you think? 1. Freefly VR Beyond 2016 model with Crossfire "Capacitive" Dual Triggers - $49.90 Amazon (they make a classic Freefly VR w/Bluetooth Controller for Android only too) I love how the mounting plate is super adjustable for iPhone 6 up to iPhone 7 size phones. Molded rubber pads are adjustable for almost any phone (4.7"-6.1" screen size).The hinges are spring loaded to account for thick phone cases like my Otterbox Defender without taking it out of the case. There are air vents too that help prevent fogging. It just seems like a clever design. My only concern is the fixed 65mm IPD lenses, with no focus adjustment. The lenses are up to 120° FOV - "the largest field of view in mobile VR." Freefly claims; "The reason is that we have wide diameter lenses, who greatly improve the feeling of immersivity (as you’re not feeling like you’re looking through 2 holes in a box as with many other VR headsets). These wide lenses have a second advantage that they create an optical flexible IPD as when the IPD is a few mm wider or narrower, the lenses still remain in focus." Do these fixed IPD/focus claims have merit? 2. Canbor VR - $25.99 Amazon These are great because both lenses individually adjust IPD and focus for each eye with sliders on top. It also has a clear anti-blue light plate that your phone rests against. You can buy them with or without a Bluetooth controller. For iPhone though a Bluetooth controller may only be good for movie/video playback, if that. This VR headset overall seems like the safest bet to try out. 3. ETVR 3D Headset (3rd Generation) - $25.99 I like the phone mounting system using an adjustable compression type clip. Just slide in the phone from above with the lid open 35°. This has IPD adjustment and a combined lens focus adjustment.

I took the Plantronics PC Headset Speaker Switch apart and sprayed generous amounts of electronics contact cleaner into the slide switch contacts moving it back and forth to wipe the contacts good. Right now it's working again. I think in the future I may even make my own DIY box. I've built guitar effects pedals from scratch (without kits) so it should be pretty easy if I get myself motivated to do it.

I've been using the Plantronics PC Headset Speaker Switch for a long time to switch between headset and speakers. It's been since discontinued. My selection switch contacts are bad. I've tried cleaning them which works for a while and then gets tricky to switch and looses stereo and I get mono sound in one side or the other, I was looking for a replacement and this MK-5 Computer Audio Switch Box by Electronics USA seems to have all the features I want. I'm just not sure if the company is trustworthy and secure for a credit card order? Last night I removed the Plantronics PC Headset Speaker Switch and trying my Phanteks Evolv ITX case front headphone/mic ports. My motherboard is the ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming and the sound manager software detects when I plug my Corsair analog gaming headset in but sometimes I only get sound in my left ear or the mic doesn't show up as a recording device. I have to keep unplugging and plugging in the connectors to finally get it working. It was much simpler with the Plantronics PC Headset Speaker Switch. I could buy another one on Amazon or replace the switch contacts in my old one or buy that MK-5 switch box. What do you recommend?

Never mind. I'll just keep doing what I'm doing with the switch box. It isn't worth it to buy a 5.1 setup unless my existing speakers die.

I haven't tried setting it up as plain stereo speakers instead of faking a 4.1 setup. As long as the bass presence is there I'm good. The satellite speakers are wired directly to the sub woofer, see the X-230 pic below. But the black ASUS Z170i motherboard connector is expecting rear speakers. Funny though that the Realtek app plays test sounds through my speakers but regular audio won't go there even though it shows in the audio level bar under playback devices. I guess it's a channel thing. I could keep using the external Plantronics headset/speakers switch box. I thought getting rid of it would be simplifying things LOL. Any recommendations for a basic 4.1 or 5.1 speaker system? I don't need rear speakers behind me so I wouldn't use that part of the setup or pair them up front.

So what is a rear speaker vs any other speaker plugged into the back? I have an old Logitech X-230 speaker system with sub woofer although it's a 2.1 system. Would I just need a newer 4.1/5.1 speaker system instead? I've had the Logitech system for way too long anyway. Any recommendations?

My year old PC has the ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming motherboard. I'm trying to ditch an old Plantronics headset/speakers switch box, which is currently plugged into the green headphones/speakers jack and pink mic jack. What I want to do is plug in my Corsair Void Stereo Gaming Headset into those jacks, using the black rear speakers jack for my Logitech X-230 speakers and sub woofer. But no sound gets to the speakers that way. In the Realtek HD Sound Manager and audio devices I see activity in the level bar, just no actual sound output to the speakers. I tried this without the headset connected. The speakers do work when plugged into the green jack. The goal is to use the AudioSwitch software to hotkey toggle between speakers and headset. Can anyone help? I updated the Realtek audio drivers from the ASUS support drivers page.

While building, because I had to use a fan cable splitter for the bottom fan header on my ASUS Z170i Pro Gaming motherboard next to the PCIe slot to power the 2 front fans, I elected to install the dual 140mm fans in the front. I didn't test with the 200mm stock fan because I already bought a set of three Phanteks 140mm fans for my system cooling and was eager to get my system done. The two 140mm fans pull more air in than the single 200mm fan and I wanted to insure that my GPU got most of the lower fan airflow. I was worried about the front case panel air gaps but they proved to be sufficient and no need to modify with extra opening like I was expecting to do. It's fine as is and I like the clean look. One word of advice though. To remove the stock 200mm intake fan (unless you want to snip the cable) you have to remove the Evolv ITX roof panel to fish out the cable. There is a plastic tie strap in a cable bundle that you have to cut so you can't just pull it through. Also, I only have the bottom HDD tray populated with my data drive so the top tray just acts as a GPU power cable shelf and lets air flow around it to the HDD and GPU. My SSD boot drive is mounted on the back wall bracket.

I think the Phanteks 140mm fans are very good. They use a very similar airfoil design like Noctua's blades. Mine seem very quiet. I have one in the rear as exhaust and two up front for intakes, replacing the stock 200mm fan. My temps have been great even though my living room gets in the upper 70's F in the Summer. Check out my completed build (March 2016) and parts list on PCPartPicker (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/96JV3C) and EVGA Mod Rigs (http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=35547) and benchmark scores. Here are some pics:

The single player campaign is 100% awesome to behold and play. I've taking my time through the levels in Ultra-Violence mode to take in all of it. This was me pre-order game pickup night May 13, 2016: The K70 Vengence Keyboard and M45 Raptor Mouse are red LED. Don't know why my iPhone captures it as purple.