Reonu

I've been supporting LTT for 7 years. That stops today. This company can go bankrupt for all I care. It's already morally bankrupt anyways.

Linus' response to this is the most disappointing thing I've witnessed from LTT, and I've been following it for like 7+ years. Really disheartening.

So I recently watched a video in where Linus complained that there are no glossy PC monitors, which made me remember that it is actually possible to turn any matte monitor into a glossy one. The classic method where you put wet paper towels on top of the matte coating and then peel it off. It's super risky, since you have to be very careful about ONLY peeling off the matte coating and not peeling off the polarising filter. Also my understanding is that the screen will a bit more fragile/delicate after doing it, since the polariser is now exposed. Whatever, I'm getting sidetracked here.

Point is, it would be cool for Linus to cover this. It would be cool if they turned a super high end PC monitor (4k + high refresh rate + etc) into a glossy monitor by doing this, showing the process and the end result, maybe comparing it with the original matte version side by side. It would make for a cool video!

There are a few videos on YouTube showing the process already, but they always use some lame old 720p LCD monitor or something. Which is understandable, it's always some random dude who problably isn't willing to risk a super high end expensive monitor. But LTT can afford to risk that! And I'm sure you won't fuck it up anyways (unless Linus drops it)

12 hours ago, Letgomyleghoe said:

I haven't had any issues with my b550, guess I dodged another bullet.

Do you use your USB 2.0 ports? or only 3.0+?

As someone who is suffering these issues myself, it's good that they're finally admitting it:

It's important to note that this is NOT brand specific. I'm having the issues with a MSI Tomahawk X570 (with a 3070 and a 5800X) but there are reports of people having the exact same issues with boards from Gigabyte, Asus, etc.

In my case, only the USB 2.0 ports are affected. If I plug my headset, mouse, keyboard etc into any USB 2.0 ports, they will randomly drop out during any kind of high load scenario, including gaming. So for example I could be playing Apex Legends and the mouse and headset will suddenly disconnect and take 2-3 seconds to start working again. USB 3 ports seem to be fine. Also, the issue is resolved by dropping the x16 PCIe slot to Gen 3 mode (which obviously isn't a solution)

Another issue that people are having is that apparently using the HP Reverb G2 on X570 / B550 is straight up impossible unless you use an add-in PCIe USB card. It just straight up won't work with any of the board's USB ports. I don't have a G2 myself but it seems like it's extremely widespread.

Now to see if it can be fixed via software (BIOS, AGESA, etc) patches. I really hope this doesn't end up with a recall.

So incredibly depressing. I hope his family is doing okay. RIP

That's the board I ordered for my 5800X + 3070 build, since the VRMs are godlike. But apparently its weak spot is the networking. I've read that it offloads data to the CPU when stressed and that it just isn't very good.

Should I get a network card? And if so, which one?

I have a 600 Mbps fiber connection and I'll always be connected via Ethernet. Never wifi

1 minute ago, 5x5 said:

You can try but be gentle so that it doesn't get worse. Use a small flathead or a similar scalpel style tool

Will try, thanks

GPU temps are completely fine. Should I try to bend it back or do I just ignore it?

My model has the following specs:

- i7 9750H

- RTX 2070

- 32 GB RAM

- 240 Hz screen

I applied Artic MX-4 recently and with most games my CPU temps are ok (70-80ºC) but for some reason Apex Legends specifically, which is by far my most played game, puts my CPU in the 90-95ºC range, I've even seen it briefly go to like 97ºC in MSI afterburner. It's absolutely insane. It's also the only game that makes my CPU drop below 4 GHz (drops to ~3.7 GHz). GPU temperatures have always been fine btw, that's not a problem at all. Also, I have a -120 mV undervolt applied via ThrottleStop.

Sooooo I'm thinking on applying Conductonaut. How dangerous is it really? I take my laptop to class every day, and then I put it on my desk at home and leave it there all day. I've read that LM can leak with movement, is that a thing? Or does that only happen if I put too much?

Should I put electrical tape around the CPU and GPU die? How much?

Another option would be to just switch to Kryonaut, but I'm not sure if that would make a big difference vs MX-4.

I have experience repasting and the process of repasting in itself is not a problemfor me. Liquid metal is new to me, tho.

Oh, and I've also read that not all heatsinks will deal well with liquid metal. So here's a pic of my heatsink:

Thanks.

I have a MSI GE65 Raider 9SF laptop with an i7 9750H and an RTX 2070. I'm currently using a -120 mV undervolt on the CPU (both core and cache). It used to be -125 mV but I got a BSOD once after closing a game so I adjusted it to -120 mV and no problems since. It holds 4 GHz playing most games. Some games will make it drop to 3.7 GHz. If I run Cinebench, it stays at ~4 GHz for like half the process, then drops to 3.7 GHz and stays there. Temps are around 80-82ºC when under full load IIRC. I haven't repasted yet. I'm heavily considering it, and I already opened the laptop in order to add a second SSD, but the idea still makes me a bit nervous, especially since I don't know whether I will encounter thermal pads on the VRMs or thermal compound, and if it's thermal compound I don't have the right stuff to replace it with (since it wouldn't be regular thermal paste)

So, I have 3 questions:

- Have I won the silicon lottery? The -120 mV undervolt seems to be 100% stable after almost 2 months of use.

- Is there any reason at all for me to switch XTU? It seems most people use XTU these days. I've set ThrottleStop to apply the undervolt at boot via the Windows task scheduler btw, so that it starts with admin rights and al that.

- Can I / should I / how do I undervolt the RTX 2070?

And also, a fourth question... I kinda regret not getting the GE75 (basically the same exact model except 17", it was the same price). If I had gotten the GE75, would I be getting higher CPU clocks? Please say no so that I feel better about my purchase lol

Thanks!

30 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Yes

 

thermal putty is different stuff anyway so that's extra cost.

Okay, thanks!

And if for some reason I had to replace the thermal putty, what should I buy?

1 hour ago, Jurrunio said:

That's thermal putty. You dont usually need to replace it because it doesnt need to be that good for cooling the VRAM and VRM for low power rails.

So I just ignore it and repaste the CPU and GPU then?

Hey, so I have a GE65 Raider 9SF. To be more specific, this exact model.

I'm interested in repasting it with Kryonaut. I've searched around for repasting videos of the GE65 but there are exactly zero videos on youtube. The closest I've found is this video of the GE75, basically the 17" version of this laptop. And after the guy removes the heatsink, this is what he finds:

The guy simply chooses to ignore the part marked in red and just replaces the paste in the CPU and GPU.

Is that regular thermal pasete there? Should I also ignore that? Can I replace it with Kryonaut? Should I buy thermal pads? If so what thinckness? I'm so confused at this.

This is my laptop

It has 1 TB of NVMe storage. It has 2 M2 slots: the first one, taken by the included SSD, is NVMe only. The second one is a NVMe/SATA combo. There's also a SATA port. So 3 storage slots in total.

I love that the laptop has purely SSD storage with no mechanical drives at all. However, what I don't love is that 1 TB of storage isn't exactly enough. I was looking at prices for 2 TB M2 SSDs and hooo boy, they're way too expensive. 2 TB mechanical HDDs are much cheaper but... it's a mechanical drive. I hate the idea of having a mechanical drive inside my laptop. I love being able to move it around while it's on without worrying about killing my storage drives. Also 2.5 HDDs are sooooo slow. ugh.

What would you do in my situation? I was also considering getting a second 1 TB SSD instead, since prices are way more reasonable, and bring the total storage to 2 TB.

I also have a 4 TB external HDD but that's for storing stuff that I don't access often. I want more internal storage.

If you're gonna say that if I can afford this laptop I can afford expensive 2 TB drives... not really. I was hard for me to buy this laptop and now after buying it I'm very short on money atm

Can you recommend me 2 TB and 1 TB SSDs? Preferably NVMe. My biggest priority is for it to be reliable and last a good few years. The included SSD is the OEM version of the 970 EVO btw. (Samsung MZVLB1T0HALR)

I have this laptop:

Product page

Specs

The very day I got it I upgraded the RAM with another 8 GB module to make it dual channel and the performance is great after making that upgrade (cpu performance practically doubled in some scenarios). The CPU very good and stays at 3.9~4 GHz constantly while playing. But what I'm not happy with is the screen. It's 1080p, but the colors and viewing angles are awful, and I'm so used to my 144 Hz panel on my desktop that playing Apex Legends on this thing looks to me like it's running at 30 FPS despite it being over 60 FPS constantly. I saw the video in where Linus upgraded the screen of a laptop with a 120 Hz screen one and now I'm wondering if I can do the same.

How can I check whether this is possible? Any specific panel that would be compatible? Thanks.

Okay so I reached the conclusion that I can't get any meaningful OC at the latencies of the 2400 MHz XMP profile (15-15-35). The max I can do is 2500 MHz.

So now the question is: What is better? The following options appear to be stable:

a) 2400 MHz 15-15-35 1.2V (this is a copy and paste of the XMP profile specs)

b) 3000 MHz 16-18-36 1.28V

c) 3000 MHz 15-18-36 1.35V

I have yet to test if other options are stable, but out of these options which one should perform the best? Basically what is better, lower latency or higher speed? 

9 minutes ago, nick name said:

Yeah, your kit is Micron so I'm not sure where you'll end up.

 

And your BIOS doesn't give a ton of options.  Is that the latest BIOS?  

 

The timings I would try (in the order they appear in BIOS) @3000MHz 15-15-32-5-7-350.

 

Again, my strategy would be to set voltage as high as you're comfortable and then find what works after.  So if 1.4V is as high as you want to go then set that and see what speed and timings will run with that voltage.  Don't hunt and peck at voltage, speed, and timings all together.  

There are actually a lot of options, I recorded a video so that you can see them all. And yes my BIOS is updated. I don't want to go past 1.35V btw (that is my current voltage). Currently I'm at 1.35V, 3000 MHz, CL15 and the rest on auto. So the idea now would be to drop the timings a bit I guess.

6 minutes ago, nick name said:

If your kit is 2400MHz at 15-15-15 then I can't imagine you'll find luck at 3200 with those same timings.  I would try 3200MHz at 16-16-16 first and if that fails then 16-18-18.  And if you're goal is to shoot for the stars then bump your DRAM voltage to 1.4V and fire away.  

But how do I enter these values? Check my BIOS photo.

Do you mean like this?

DRAM CAS# Latency - 16

DRAM RAS# to CAS# Latency - 16

DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 16

Current latencies:

So it booted at CL15 3000 MHz at 1,35V. This is the timings screen in the BIOS. What else should I change?

4 minutes ago, nick name said:

I'm not certain, but I always use matching timings as a quick indicator a kit might be Samsung b-die.  It holds true to about 3600MHz but there are some faster speed kits that follow as well.  14-14-14, 15-15-15, 16-16-16 and for faster than 3600MHz I've seen 17-17-17 and 18-18-18.  There are some kits like the Dominator Platinums that will use b-die and use 16-18-18 timings and those kits could also be something like Hynix CJR which can get pretty fast.  

Did you check my screenshots? My DRAM is from Micron right?

5 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

My first step in overclocking RAM is usually to take those first four configuration numbers (usually 16-16-16-36 or something similar for DDR4) and dial each down by one, then verify with Intel XTU's memory test for about ten minutes. I've never had that be an issue except on the crappiest of the crappy old DDR3 sticks (ELPIDA!). After that, it's a lot like overclocking a CPU. Dial the RAM speed up from 2400 to 2666, let the XTU memory test run for an hour or so. If it passes, jump up a step in speed and see if that's stable. If it errors out on you, bump the voltage up from 1.2 to 1.225 (or whatever that rounds to) and try again. Lather, rinse, repeat until you've reached a speed you're happy with or have taken the voltage up to the max you're comfortable with.

 

In my experience, RAM is more susceptible to the "ceiling" than CPUs are. The ceiling is the point at which the voltage jump necessary to move one increment up on speed is no longer worth it. For example, on my old i7-4790K, I could cruise right on up to 4.8GHz at 1.28V with total stability and OCCT temps in the 70s on my Kraken X61. When I tried to get to 4.9GHz, I couldn't even get the damn thing to post until I was well north of 1.3V, and it was only stable for a few minutes at a time. On my original G3258, I could get to 4.4GHz with my eyes closed at a totally safe 1.36V, but getting to 4.5GHz took 1.4+, which is outside of the safe range even for something as cool and efficient as a Pentium. That's the ceiling. You can probably stabilize the part, but it requires so much more voltage than the previous step that it isn't worth it. I find that ceiling to be lower and more concrete with RAM than with CPUs, generally speaking.

Apparently my ceiling is 3000 Mhz. 3000 Mhz works at 1.28V, but 3200 MHz won't post even at 1.39V. 

I tried to drop the CL to 15 but it won't post. It doesn't post at 1.3V either. I'm gonna try at 1.35V.

2 minutes ago, nick name said:

There are plenty of kits faster than 3200 that aren't Samsung b-die and I believe there are 3200CL16 kits that are lesser Samsung b-die.  

 

And like he said -- use Thaiphoon Burner to READ your DIMMs.  It's super simple. 

2 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Anything faster than 3200MHz is B-Die.

Anything 3200MHz with CL of 15 or lower is B-Die.

Anything 3200MHz with CL of 16 or higher is probably Hynix, maybe E-Die.

Anything slower than 3200MHz is probably Hynix.

 

There's a master list on Reddit (sorry, not sure of the URL) that lists RAM SKUs and their NAND type. There's also a program called Thaiphoon Burner that will tell you what type of NAND you have, but it's tricky to use and can damage things if you're not careful about where you click.

Thanks! Can you give me tips on the latency thing? I think my RAM is running at CL16, should I try to drop it to CL15? 

8 minutes ago, Eastman51 said:

CL15 is already pretty low, I doubt you'd need to tweak that much.

 

1.28v is totally safe.

To put it in context, my Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000Mhz has to run at 1.35v for anything higher than 2133Mhz or the system won't boot (usually boot looping for a while and then restoring previous settings).

Does it run at CL15 by default though? I thought it only ran at CL15 if I use the XMP profile. CPU-Z screenshot:

It's running at CL16 right? How do I change that?

6 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

Cooling is an important factor. If you have pretty direct airflow across your RAM, you can crank it up higher. That's part of why I like top-down coolers. My NH-C14S is dumping cool air onto my RAM.

 

You probably have Hynix NAND, in which case 1.45V is your absolute maximum. 1.35V is a safe number for everything but bare-PCB OEM stuff. Those HyperX Fury DIMMs will really fly if you let them.

"Probably"? Can I check which NAND I have?

First of all my specs:
i7 6700k oc'd at 4.4 GHz (terrible silicon lottery) 

GTX 1070

16 GB DDR4 RAM. Specifically: Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 2400 PC4-19200 16GB 2X8GB CL15. Or HX424C15FB2K2/16.

Asus Maximum VIII Hero motherboard

Sooooo I just bumped the RAM speed to 2600 MHz. Worked. Bumped to 2800 MHz. Oof, crash. Bumped voltage to 1.25V. Worked. Bumped to 3000 MHz. Oof, blue screen. Bumped voltage to 1.28V, worked.

And that's where I'm at. AC Odyssey runs better now, yay. I haven't touched the timings at all and I have no idea how that works. Any tips? Is 1.28V a safe voltage? Should I touch the timings, is it worth it? Where do I go from here?