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Posts posted by Bajantechnician
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9 hours ago, hhamama66 said:
I live in the US and know absolutely no one who is handy with power tools who can cut an aluminum panel for me. I tried a couple local Home Depots but they only cut wood, Lowe's is the same story. Where could I possibly look to get someone to cut a rectangular hole in an aluminum panel? It's not that I can't use power tools or that I'm too afraid, I just don't have the proper tools, don't feel like spending money to buy them and honestly my hands aren't very steady. I couldn't get a straight cut if I tried.
demel with a cutting wheel?
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3 minutes ago, cluelessgenius said:
Ooo, skimmed over that part somehow lol.
maybe integrate google home or alexa?
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Maybe like a today's weather function?
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15 minutes ago, TOFUburger9139 said:
~snip~
Mine has done that before.
What i did to fix it.
I opened the drive and undid the screws under the sticker.
I then took a small ifixit flat bit screwdriver and pushed it from the rear of the pin (You dont know what im talking about until you do open it)
this then pushed the pin back out
I superglued the rear pin to the plastic (without covering the contacts)
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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:
Arent BIOS always controlled with keyboard only? Or rather, I dont know any board with a BIOS that support mouse control.
They may have a UEFI bios.
https://www.howtogeek.com/56958/htg-explains-how-uefi-will-replace-the-bios/
1 minute ago, Lerzaman said:a mouse actually comes up
are your usb ports working?
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5 hours ago, Semper said:
Unless you've modified the bracket or retention hardware in some way that's not to EK spec, yes. The springs will apply the proper tension on the cooler when the thumbnuts are bottomed out.
Ooo, coolio. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't putting too much pressure on it.
Thanks! -
Hi!
quick question before I knock out for the night, am I supposed to bottom out the thumb nuts for the water block as it says in the manual? I don’t wanna apply unnecessary pressure.
Night!
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3 hours ago, Sombra said:
Quick Question: What is this monitor for? How will it be used?
Fyi there's a lot of bullshit in this subforum, don't believe everything people say especially when its about a monitor they have never seen before. Look at external and credible reviews in addition to people's recommendations. As far as the whole IPS vs VA thing, I find it counterproductive to stereotype them. I'd recommend to look at monitor's individually, paper specs only mean so much and you'll find that even monitors with similar specs can have vastly different irl performance, including stuff like contrast.
The Asus and the BenQ both ue the same panel so they are almost identical in performance. The difference mostly comes in appearence and build quality. In this case I'd prefer the Asus.
I will be using it for occasional gaming (as on more than occasional but not daily) as well as editing photos/videos.
Is there any specific reason why the Asus is better than the Benq?
3 hours ago, kurama3114 said:Ok, so I've looked at all of the monitors. They are all pretty similar when it comes to raw specs, but not in reliability or features. I would definitely not get the Monoprice monitor because there have been many reports of poor reliability, backlight bleed, dead pixels, etc... Surprisingly, the massdrop monitor has the best specs of the 4, with a 2 ms response time, with the rest having 4. However, it is lacking many of the features that its' more mainstream competitors have, as well as not being as color accurate. It doesn't have HDR either. Speaking of HDR, the only one on the list that has it is BenQ's monitor, and it also has USB-C connectivity. All things considered, I would have to say that the Monitor from ASUS is the best all around when it comes to gaming. It is extremely reliable, great color accuracy, and an unmatched assortment of gaming oriented features. For the best value per dollar though, I would say that the Massdrop monitor dominates.
Yeah, I've heard that the monoprice is the best bang for the buck, but it got some backlight bleed issues, as well as a really hard to navigate OSD.
Would any of the monitors other than the monoprice support LFC? The Asus also only goes to 75hz right? I've looked around and can't find anyone who was able to use CRU on it successfully.
Comparing the Asus and the Benq, which one would be better overall? not just for gaming? -
19 hours ago, kurama3114 said:
This is an Asus Strix monitor that would seem to fit most of your needs when gaming. If you have the time to wait until the summer, MSI is releasing a very similar monitor but at 144 Hz instead of 100, for about $900
Upcoming MSI monitor
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/msi-optrix-mpg341cqr-specs-price,38382.html
What would be better between the Strix XG35VQ you linked and this Benq EX3501R?
edit: how about this one?
Acer XR382CQK
edit 2: Hows the massdrop vast and the monoprice zero-g 35"?
20 hours ago, Stormseeker9 said:IPS does have the best viewing angles. I mean end of day it’s preference. I just ordered a IPS myself After I saw it in the shop. Love it.
2how is the contrast on IPS?
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11 minutes ago, Molinafsu said:
anyone have any ideas?
Have you checked your cpu temps?
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1 minute ago, benjaminr said:
i will buy rtx 2080 and i am thinking to buy this card
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-RTX2080-O8G-GAMING/
stop being annoying.
you say you want a 2080, then say that you dont know if you want a 2070. Stop going full circle.
You have the monitor youve linked. Its high refresh. You can get a 2080 and saturate the framerate, which will get even better when youve switched to zen 2. or you can get a 2070 and get very playable rates and save some money.
Stop going on and on.
- ThePD, filippalfi and LukeSavenije
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7 hours ago, Turtle Rig said:
Your fine, the VA also has better angle views and will play games noticeably better. As I said IPS comes into effect if you are a pro photoshop and premiere user every day for 8 hours a day is your job ya know. If not then no worries.
I see. I thought IPS had better viewing angles.
Would you have any suggestions for monitors?
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4 hours ago, Mehmy said:
Ah, sorry, missed that part. Yeah, you'll have to tilt the pc around then while the pump is running, and hope for the best
Darn! Time to be a lumberjack lmao. Thanks a bunch!
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8 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:
A IPS is nice but horrible at games and also the black are not black and bleeding. Get the VA panel unless your a pro artist or something.
Gotcha. So stick with va unless I’m a professional (I’m not) va will be perfectly fine for color grading?
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Hey guys!
so I’ve been looking around, and there seems to be too many variations for me to understand fully. My budget is around 750-775 USD. I’d like a monitor with
freesync
2k resolution (3440x1440)
curved
ultrawide
good Freesync range
mo less than 75htz
hdr
good colors (8bit or 10 bit/10 bit equivalent, srgb/argb)
LFC
so so far the only one I’ve really found is the LG 34UC99 and the BENQ EX3501R.
as far as I can tell from forum posts, the LG one is terrible for gaming as it’s range is from 50-70 or something like that. I haven’t seen anyone post about editing it successfully though CRU. The 2 monitors have different panels and the LG suports 1b colors while the BenQ supports 16.7m.
Mad of right now, I’m leaning towards the BenQ, but is VA good for photo editing?
im open to other monitors if there any suggestions at all.
Thank you!
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7 hours ago, bowrilla said:
Well, you ca get rid of some air by tilting your rig but your pump may not run dry or you will risk damaging it. I'd suggest adding a t-fitting at the top with a ball valve and a plug. This way bleeding will be easier. In my rig the difference is only 3-4cm and getting the air bubble out of it takes a serious amount of shaking and tilting and I have soft tubing until the gpu block is ready for the router.
Hmmm, that is a good idea. Now I just need to find somewhere to hide the fitting.
23 minutes ago, Mehmy said:Could lay your system on its side, dismount the res, and manually lift it above the system if you have long enough tube runs?
I’ll be hardlineing
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1 hour ago, bowrilla said:
Yes and not really. The drain port should be at the very bottom and you want to fill at the very top. You can skip the fill port if your reservoir is at the top. If you try to fill anywhere else than at the top it means there will be an airpocket at higher points in your loop. If your reservoir is at the top, you can just fill it up this way and bleed the system easily. Proper bleeding is essential for a loop, air pockets in waterblocks or radiators can dramatically reduce cooling performance.
Darn, my res is at the very bottom, just because of how the case is designed.
Itll be a pain to drain the air at the top of the loop -
20 minutes ago, dizmo said:
Not for your budget, no.
darn!
Well, appreciate all the help
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20 minutes ago, bowrilla said:
Well, once a year is considered as the longest maintenance interval. As long as you loop is prepped well and kept clean, a good clear coolant should have no bigger issues with that amount of time. You may experience some discolourations over time though if you use a coloured coolant - depends on the material and the specific coolant, it's hard to predict.
And don't forget your drain port and ideally a well placed fill and vent port.
Ooo, gotcha. Ill be using the EK premixed clear fluid.
Drains at the very bottom and fill can be anywhere right?
Heres the log if you wanna follow it Ill be updating it sometime this week.
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17 minutes ago, bowrilla said:
Well, since you'll be facing disassembling your system like 1-2 times a year. Go with the Kryonaut. You'll gain nothing from the longer standing time of the HT2. Ultimately it's pretty much irrelevant though as long as you're using a good TIM. The differences of good TIMs are within 1-1.5°C. Keeping the air filters dust free has a bigger impact.
I see. yeah, I've ordered some filters that I'll going to custom mod into my case. Would I get away with disassembly once a year if its clear coolant? I'm planning on using clear since I'm not a fan of the pastels.
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5 hours ago, TrigrH said:
nope
darn
2 hours ago, bowrilla said:You should expect about 0.5°C difference between the Kryonaut and the NT-HT2. There are no official reviews out there but there's a huge comparison of 84 different TIMs including the Kryonaut and the HT2. Noctua published their own comparison results between HT1 and HT2. At Tom's Hardware they measured a difference of ~1°C between the Kryonaut and the HT1. On desktop chips the difference seems to be around 0.5°C and up to 2°C on HEDT high power chips with huge surfaces, which should be irrelevant for 9/10 builders.So basically: the difference is probably ~0.5°C so it's a matter of preference and price. 5 years of standing time is a nice feature, but how many people leave their system assembled for 5 years not changing anything? And who's really storing an opened tube of TIM for 3 years to use it again? You'll probably get a fresh 3g tube for 10-15 bucks.
Will it make any noticeable difference? No, not really. 0.5°C is pretty much within the margin of error.
Ooo, gotcha.
Thanks for that info I bought a tube of MX-4 4 years ago. Its been stored inside my desk but I don't wanna reuse it after all these years, especially since I'll be hardline tubing my new pc and it'll be a hassle to repaste it.
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14 minutes ago, dizmo said:
IIRC FreeSync 2 has LFC. I wouldn't get a monitor without it, especially if you're running AMD graphics too.
been looking for a bit, cant find a curved 2k freesync 2.0 monitor
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1 minute ago, dizmo said:
IIRC FreeSync 2 has LFC. I wouldn't get a monitor without it, especially if you're running AMD graphics too.
Ooo gotcha. Do you think i should spend the extra $50 and get a samsung or LG one?
SMART MIRROR ideas welcome!
in Programming
Posted
Sorry again lmao.
was skimming since I was in English class