akirivan

I'm in the market for a monitor for my laptop to make a docking station-style setup. This Lenovo seems to check all my boxes: 27" 4K Thunderbolt 4 4ms response time Around $500 US (though converted into my currency) HDR400 I found a couple others that were in my price range, and also had Thunderbolt and 4K, though one of them (Samsung Viewfinity S8) had really bad reviews and the other one (an LG Ultrasharp or Ultrafine, I think) had reviews that said it tended to develop dead pixels. Since it's marketed more toward professional uses, the reviews all seem to focus on that. I did find one review that it's not recommended for gamers, though the review doesn't mention why. I don't play super fast-paced games like shooters or racers, and I don't really care for anything beyond 60Hz (I play mostly action-adventure, RPGs and platformers, Mario Kart and Smash are about the fastest-paced games I play). Also, before it's asked, the monitor is not only for my Switch gaming, I also intend to stream content through the laptop, and in a few months, game on a PS5, that's why I'm looking for 4K and not FHD or QHD. Is anyone familiar with this monitor and why it might not be good for gaming, besides the refresh rate? Does anyone have any other/better recommendations around that price point with Thunderbolt 3/4, 27" and 4K?

Thanks! Reading this helps ease my mind a bit. I feel like audio people tend to exaggerate a bit, so I was thinking that my audio would just sound like garbage if outputted through the monitor.

I didn't think the specific models were necessary tbh. It's a Lenovo ThinkVision P27U-20 4K monitor, a Nintendo Switch, a PS5, a set of Edifier R19U speakers and a Lenovo Yoga Slim 7i Pro laptop. The laptop would plug into the monitor through Thunderbolt 4 and the consoles through HDMI/DP. I don't want to use an AV receiver for the reasons I stated and because I don't want to sacrifice the Thunderbolt functionality.

I can finally create a proper desk setup, since I currently have a bunch of disconnected nonsense instead of a single cohesive setup. It will all revolve around a monitor, to which I will connect at least 2 gaming consoles, with more down the line, plus one laptop. I have a set of Edifier USB speakers, and I want to know what the best way to connect everything to the speakers would be. An A/V receiver is not an option because they are way too big and expensive, so I don't know what other options I might have. The speakers do have the option of using a 3.5mm aux cable to connect. Would using the monitor's 3.5mm audio out jack have any discernible impact on audio quality? What other ways could I try to connect everything to the same speakers?

I'm gonna check with the store, see how much the 5 Pro would up the price. With the 3 I'm a little under my max budget, so the 5 Pro might be fine, hopefully, thanks for the tip. The CPU they put on the estimate for the IdeaPad 3 is a Core i5 1135G7. The exact model of laptop is an IdeaPad 3 14ITL05.

I'm looking for a laptop right now, and since I know I like Lenovo, I've been looking specifically at those. I got an estimate for one (an IdeaPad 3) and the Lenovo website says it has an average battery life of around 4 hours. To me that sounds really low, but I haven't had a laptop since my 2018 Lenovo got stolen in late 2021. Is that a normal battery life for a laptop?

So, I'm now back home. Chkdsk is still running, and Ctrl + C isn't doing anything.

Thank you for your help!

And just to be sure. If I connect it through usb, is it actually possible to access it? It's not encrypted or anything, I only had a PIN to log into Windows

I didn't know where to post this. So, a few days ago, my pc stopped booting into Windows and it stayed on the HP logo with text saying "Preparing for automatic repair" and never went beyond that. Using instructions from a blog, I managed to load up WinRE and from there went into command prompt. The /scanos and /rebuildbcd commands spit out "Total Windows installations: 0". I input /chkdsk because I'm fairly certain that it's a drive issue (it's a 7-year-old HDD), and it's taking a long long time (it's been running for over 48 hours I think). I already bought an SSD to replace the old drive, but I do want to try to get some files out of the old one using a usb to sata cable. Would anything be damaged (more) if I shut it down at the stage of chkdsk pictured in order to replace the drive? Can anyone tell from this information whether it even is a drive issue? (The image is in Spanish)

I've been trying to add new files to a multi-part compressed .7z file and it won't let me. If I use 7-Zip's "Add files" button, I get a message that says "Operation is not supported" and if I drag and drop from Windows Explorer into the .7z I get a message that says "Not implemented". When I add new files to a single-part .7z I never have any issuea, but I can't seem to add to multi-part 7z files. Is it just not possible?

So, I just installed the 1809 build on my Lenovo 2-in-1, and since I installed it, it no longer switches to tablet mode automatically when I fold back the keyboard, nor does it automatically deactivate the keyboard and trackpad anymore. Can anyone tell me some fix?

Ok, so, I will be graduating from college this year and I want to reward myself with a new phone because I am just sick of my current one. I won't have that much money to play with, though, probably about $400-500, maybe even $550. Would I be better off buying an older flagship (I'm thinking the Galaxy S8, currently at $494 on Newegg, or even the S8+, which might be around that pricepoint by the time I actually buy it) or a newer mid-tier (maybe the OnePlus 7T which will most likely be out by the time I graduate)?

Oh snap, that app sounds like exactly what I need. Thank you so much.

For years now I've been using my All-in-One's built-in speakers and I have just bought a discrete pair of speakers (Edifier R19U). They connect via USB and when I plug them in, they immediately take over. So, I was watching YouTube in Chrome and I wanted to compare the two sets of speakers, so I went into Windows settings and changed the output device from the Edifer to Realtek, and it changed normally. But then I was listening to music on iTunes, and I wanted to do the same but when I changed the output device to Realtek it just kept on playing out of the Edifier. I tried it again with YouTube and it worked fine. Can someone tell me how I can make sure the audio output changes always? I need to be able to use my headphones (changing to Realtek) without having to unplug the speakers.