Solrosen

Tested the keyboard on another pc and it worked just fine, the issue not showing. This confirmed it wasn't the keyboard itself. Then I decided to just start turning off software running in the background one by one. And it looks like I've found what caused it, Samsung Magician (hdd/ssd managing software). I Still don't know why it caused the issue, all I know after trying to shut it off it had some type of error, after the error got resolved and the program still running the keyboard worked as normal again, very strange. Hopefully this actually WAS the issue and if it happens again I'll then know the culprit. Thanks for the show of interest Emo!

It does (Steelseries GG), have tried testing to mix with the settings and so on, but came out with nothing. The issue has come out of nowhere.

As title says, solo pressing CTRL now disables W if it's pressed down before W is pressed, if I let go of CTRL then W is engaged after about .5 seconds or so. If I press W and THEN CTRL it works just fine, it's only when CTRL is pressed before W. This happens on both CTRL keys so it's not a physical button issue. Holding down other keys together with CTRL like SHIFT or ALT enables the W key to function as normal It's as if CTRL+W is now trying to DO something very specific, but nothing happens. Keyboard in question is a Steelseries APEX Pro tkl. Never had an issue before, haven't downloaded anything new, nor really updated anything, issue just appeared out of nowhere. EDIT: Yes this happens in all games and on desktop applications. I have tried all the basic methods (restarts, plugging in n out and so forth) EDIT2: Here's a recording of what it looks like

Imma be honest and just say that I'm unfamiliar with most of the terms you just used. Speak "amateur language" for me if you could

Honestly haven't touched my CPU settings in a loooong while so I checked, according to my BIOS the core clock is at 1.168v at the moment Scratch that, according to HWM it maxes out at about 1.360V when under load like a cinebench test. Please excuse my bare knowledge of these sorts of things, I'm not exactly well read on PC hardware.

CPU: i7 7700k Kaby Lake (OC'd to 4.7ghz) Cooler: EVGA CLC 280 OLD fans: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet edition NEW fans: Arctic P14 (PWM PST) New thermal paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Motherboard: STRIX Z270E Gaming Been noticing high temps in my CPU for some time (41 at idle, around 80-90 during high loads) decided to upgrade to high pressure fans with better thermal paste. Here are some interesting observations I've done after changing them. 1. Idle temps are a lot better, average at 33 degrees when it's stable (could be the paste maybe?). 2. Temps fluctuate a whole lot when doing everyday desktop or idle work, jumps randomly and rapidly between 33-75 degrees, maybe this is normal but keep reading. 3. I tried benching it with cinebench and noticed barely no decrease in temps, maxes out at about 85-90 degrees. 4. HW-monitor says the CPU-fans are constantly spinning at ~1500rpm, however when I open the EVGA software "flow control" it says something else. I might have connected to the wrong header? 5. With flow control I can set the pump and fans however I want, and if I MAX them out, do the bench, there is no difference in temps, 85-90. If I lower the pump and fans to it's lowest setting then run the test it's the same story, no change in temps, 85-90. 6. If i sit in a practice map on CSGO, with several bots slashing their knifes at me, with fans set to manual on the lowest rpm (~400) the CPU sits at about 70 degrees. If I then max the fans (~1700rpm) nothing happens to the temps, stays at 70. I made this in a rush so it might be poorly formulated. NOTE, I know this is a CPU meant for overclocking, so getting close to 100 degrees celsius isn't necessarily scary. So what's going on? Is the cooler not functioning properly? Was it me that installed the paste and cooler itself poorly? Am I getting inaccurate readings? I'm going to disassemble it tomorrow and look at the spread of the paste to see if something has gone awry. Included image shows what the temp fluctuations looks like whilst only typing this post. Please, if you have any ideas feel free to share, even if it's just "might be weird, but you're within acceptable temps so 'fuggedaboud it kid' ". It is still noteworthy.

Aight, thanks for the tip!

Hi there boyos, I was wondering if maybe I should slightly change my fan placements in my Fractal Design Define XL R2 Black Pearl case for possibly better airflow. My stock fans that came with the case has finally started to wear down, they sometimes start making a lot of grinding noises (to which the only solution is to lightly slap 'em until it goes away, amount of slaps vary...). Sometimes they also make weird wobbly noises to which there is no solution. So I have now bought three Noctua NF-A14 140mm fans and was wondering where I should put them. At the very moment, I have a pull configuration water cooler at the top of the case for the CPU with 2x140mm fans. Then three 140mm stock fans, one at the bottom, one at the front, and one exhaust at the back. SHOULD I move the bottom one so that I have two in the front? Does anyone think this would matter? I have several storage units at the front of the case so maybe it would be a good idea to make sure there are two fans instead of one blowing at them?

Hi there boyos, I was wondering if maybe I should slightly change my fan placements in my Fractal Design Define XL R2 Black Pearl case for possibly better airflow. My stock fans that came with the case has finally started to wear down, they sometimes start making a lot of grinding noises (to which the only solution is to lightly slap 'em until it goes away, amount of slaps vary...). Sometimes they also make weird wobbly noises to which there is no solution. So I have now bought three Noctua NF-A14 140mm fans and was wondering where I should put them. At the very moment, I have a pull configuration water cooler at the top of the case for the CPU with 2x140mm fans. Then three 140mm stock fans, one at the bottom, one at the front, and one exhaust at the back. SHOULD I move the bottom one so that I have two in the front? Does anyone think this would matter? I have loads of storage at the front of the case so maybe it would be a good idea to make sure there are two fans instead of one blowing at them?

Well his PC atm certainly is not silent, however it's most likely the combined noise of old hardware (GPU fans, CPU fan and the HDD) it reminds me a lot of the "black pearl". But my guess it's just a typical Fractal Design case from 10-8 years ago (you know, dust filters on front and underside, very minimal sound proofing in comparison to the Black Pearl) It should fit everything, however we could remove the Storage mounts/shelves since he most likely wont need them considering the NVMe SSD. 900+ gb is enough for him, he is a light gamer overall and does not need much storage.

Plan was to use the old one, however airflow and space might be a concern. Current EXACT model on his case is unknown, but i know it's essentially the same model as Fractal design big tower "black pearl". It is very similar in appearance, just smaller.

Hi LTT community, I've been tasked by my friend to put together a new PC for him on a medium/good budget and was wondering if anyone had any tips or advice on the items I have chosen. (added a screenshot) His current computer is roughly 7-8 years old in terms of it's parts and ehhh.... it shows. I have probably never seen a slower PC in my life and if I myself was confined to using it I most likely would have stopped gaming all together ? He is looking for a completely new rig and want's it to run VR for when his budget allows him to buy the Valve Index.Other than VR he wants to run newer titles, but isn't exactly an FPS-snob like myself (probably cuz' he hasn't invested in a higher refreshrate monitor yet, give him time he'll come around ?) And really ANYTHING is an improvement on this guys old rig. My intentions with the parts I've chosen was to make it easily upgradeable whenever he feels like doing that. I felt the motherboard is key in that regard and chose one that I personally believe would fit, and then be capable of fitting upgrades such as CPU and GPU. His budget is a maximum of 940 Usd (9000 swedish kronor) and these parts I've chosen is currently at 917 Usd. PLEASE NOTE that these items are also on sale; GPU -13%, Motherb. -17%, SSD -23%, Power supply - 42%. Which saves him around 144 USD, ending up at the total amount of 917USD as mentioned earlier. Advice would be MUCH appreciated as we are taking advantage of the black friday sale and want to order it asap.

Tried it off, as stated above it reduces the effect by 20%, but it's still there

Yea already tried that and the problem is like 20% less loud with it checked, but I'm assuming that is because I use Sonic Studio to boost bass cuz' it kinda sucks in these headphones. Other than that noticeable difference the problem is still there, ty tho.

I have this really annoying popping/crackling sound coming from my audio, it appears that it comes forth when using any form of program/app-related audio. It is extremely annoying and very present when listening to constant sounds such as Spotify or while gaming, however it doesn't appear as frequently or rather next to nothing when doing browser related stuff like streaming or watching Youtube. The popping is especially sharp when audio is cut off/interrupted, for ex. when i pause a youtube video, then it is easily noticed. Here is a video showing an example, as seen in it the popping only appears when listening to the program section, but not when listening directly to the headphones. Video link: The popping/crackling that appears in the video when i press the volume slider for "Systemljud" aka system sound, is extremely prevalent in many programs, PUBG, Spotify, Wolfenstein 2, Vermintide 2 and etc. I'm not sure if it came before or after i got a new PC a some months, back I can't quite remember but I'm pretty sure that it was there back then as well. At first i thought it was my old headset (Steelseries siberia 800) but it is present in my new headphones as well. (Audio Technica AD700x) What I have tried: Updating drivers switching headphones switching headphone jack tried a USB adapter to which I'm pretty sure uses a small soundcard to convert 3.5mm jacks into USB changing format quality (currently running my lowest 44100hz 16 bit) removing any "improvements" under audio configurations and a bunch of other small random things like changing energy/power options in windows for example. I have also tested out latency with DPC Latency but it gave me a very inconsistent read and since i was unfamiliar with the procedure I didn't really count too much on it, maybe I should...? My guess is that windows 10 is having some sort of issue, but I just can't figure out what it is. Please type in any theory or suggestion, thank you! Specs: GTX 1080ti Strix ROG (oc using ASUS gpu tweaker) i7 7700k kaby lake (oc to 4.7ghz) 16gb Corsair vengeance 3200mhz (clocked at 3200mhz) ASUS Strix Z270E Gaming Motherboard