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daniel764

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  1. I also think I have a spare TX850M power supply from an old PC. Should I go to an ATX case to use it or is the 450w one I have fine?
  2. Hey, thanks for taking the time to help me out. What sort of cooler and case would you recommend for this PC if I got a Z390 board?
  3. So I built this PC early last year and I've had some problems and my fair share of stress working with it, as I've had the PC randomly turn itself off and a handful of times that the CPU has overheated. I didn't really know what I was doing, and I still don't but I know a little more about computers at least now. I also have the money aside to completely build the computer again from the ground up if need be, but I was actually just looking to finetune what I currently have. Other than straight up upgrading for sheer power, are there are components that you guys suggest that I should definitely replace? and Perhaps for something else in particular? I'm no longer a fan of this case, and would gladly swap it for a regular tower build now. CPU - i7-8700k CPU cooler - captain 120ex MOBO - strix Z370-i GPU - corsair 1080 ti hydro SSD - Samsung 960 evo 250GB RAM - corsair veng 3000mhz 2x8 PSU - corsair SF450 Case - Phanteks evolv shift
  4. Thanks I'll try re-seating the CPU and reapplying thermal paste In a mini itx case, should I remove the motherboard to reapply thermal paste? Or is it not that messy of a job?
  5. My computer has an unstable default state of 90c CPU idle temperatures, and I forgot about this when I was messing around in bios today, and I can't remember how to fix it. What settings in the bios should I look into to drop my CPU temperatures? I had it at 40 idle before I defaulted, and remember having undervolted the system (First build, was really bad and can't afford to replace any parts but suggestions for the future are welcome) CPU - i7-8700k CPU cooler - captain 120ex MOBO - strix Z370-i GPU - corsair 1080 ti hydro SSD - Samsung 960 evo 250GB RAM - corsair veng 3000mhz 2x8 PSU - corsair SF450 Case - Phanteks evolv shift 
  6. Ah thank you, I was wondering why the pump has a male connector. Is there any benefit to having a fan attached to the pump directly rather than a splitter with the pump to the AIO_PUMP header? I have 2 in 1 out, pushing through radiators and out
  7. Also the reason why I haven't included a photo is because I'm using a mini itx case and the cable management is more of a nightmare than my explanations
  8. Is there a cable in particular that I should look into buying to do this? And a 1080ti liquid cooled, has no fans on the GPU, not sure what else I'd plug the fan into I was thinking I could connect the GPU radiator fan and outtake fan to the CHA_FAN port to free up the AIO_PUMP which I'll do anyway, but I still would have the same cable problem with the cpu cooler fan
  9. (I have no idea what I'm doing or about terminology, sorry in advance) I have a fan inside my CPU cooler that needs connecting but I'm not sure how to go about it It's a 4-pin male and the only way I can connect it currently is if I have something that can connect it to another 4-pin male cable Does such a thing exist? Or is there something that I can buy to connect everything? Board: 3x 4-pin male (CPU_FAN, AIO_PUMP, CHA_FAN) Req: 3x 4-pin female (I/O fans) 1x 4-pin male (CPU cooler fan) 1x 3-pin female (CPU cooler pump) Board config: CPU_FAN: splitter cable (came with CPU cooler) splitter 1: CPU cooler pump (3-pin female) splitter 2: CPU radiator fan (intake) splitter 3: empty 4-pin male AIO_PUMP: GPU radiator fan (intake) CHA_FAN: case fan (outtake) Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-I CPU cooler: Deepcool Gamer Storm Captain 120EX
  10. Update: I manually lowered the CPU voltage from 1.136V to 0.992V, and disabled Turbo mode. The CPU now idles at 41 give or take 2. Is this an optimal temperature?
  11. Yeah I have no idea if this is bad though, googling stress temperatures I think this CPU can get up to 70-90. Maybe it's a sign my CPU isn't making contact with the CPU cooler
  12. These errors also persist when I try to boot to windows 10 installer from USB, not just the boot manager for my SSD. Currently waiting for the CPU to cool down before I try rebooting
  13. So I just built a PC for the first time and I'm having issues getting it to boot. I've installed windows 10 on an SSD and I'm getting blue screens with errors like -driver IQRL not less or equal -wheat uncontrollable error -attempted to execute non-executable memory The computer is less than a week old, with no second-hand or old parts. I've double checked that everything is connected, but I don't know if the CPU cooler is touching the CPU or not - I didn't wanna screw it down too hard. No thermal paste was used either because the CPU cooler comes with some pre applied (do I still need to apply some?) I've had it boot once and I think it's a CPU temperature issue, but in the bios I only get to 40-60 degrees so it can't run that much hotter surely. After the successful boot, I booted down to configure the BIOS one last time and now it's a mix between stuck on automatic repairs and blue screens. Build: CPU - i7-8700k CPU cooler - captain 120ex MOBO - strix Z370-i GPU - corsair 1080 ti hydro SSD - Samsung 960 evo 250GB RAM - corsair veng 3000mhz 2x8 PSU - corsair SF450 Case - Phanteks evolv shift Temperatures: (celcius) Ambience: 29 CPU: 55 GPU: 30 The testing and booting was performed open case no panels I plan to just use this PC for light gaming and browsing, no OC Sorry if this is the wrong forum
  14. Currently planning on buying 2x8 GB Vengeance 3000mhz memory, but should I look to go for cheaper ram if I can only utilise up to 2400mhz? Or is the build quality enough to justify the purchase? Thanks
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