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Hi All, Not sure if you will find this useful, but thought I'd share anyway. Currently planning a build where I wanted to mount an EK Xtop D5 horizontally to an acrylic panel i'm creating. I couldn't find a bracket that did this, so thought i'd just make one myself. Using Tinkercad I came up with this: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aBALrMXiLCv-ekd5pwmmount It's designed to fit snug around the rubber surround EK provides with the XTop. It can be secured with M4 bolts. I created a 8mm countersunk hole allowing you to hide bolt head and nuts. The mount can be used either way, but I designed it so the thicker piece is at the base. Any questions, just ask. Hope someone finds it helpful.

I thought I tried that one too? Well i think i did. I'll try again, it was giving me the s**ts so its been parked it for the moment. Im considering getting a smaller res tube so I can use my res/pump combo. Not the biggest fan of the ports on ek res. Thanks for sending the diagram

According to the specs on the site it is... that's what's confusing me!! I was worried about res position but flow to the pump is fine. I'm sure it's got to do with the pump. I've tried bottom ports, and that front port. Also the single which is connected to PT.. Might just get shorter res tube from singularity. I only had a 250ml so had to use the ek res...

Hi all, Just finished this loop. I'm having issues with head pressure from the ddc. I've been filling from the res which goes into passthroughs etc. I don't have an issue with the water getting to the pump, but when I turn it on to cycle it really doesn't go anywhere... I've been trying to figure it out but I can't... If it's something easy I've clearly missed it. I've changed in and outs, checked singularitys site for in and out ports. Basic flow path: Ddc>360rad>120rad> into pass through plate >cpu>res>gpu>pass through plate > DDC Excuse some of the fittings being loose, I was about to disassemble prior to taking the pic. If anyone can work out as to why it's happening I'd be cheering! Cheers Peter

I've provided them with the info going on two weeks ago. I'm still awaiting their reply. The pics above have been supplied along with the cards serial. Fingers crossed they reply soon.

You would think but no.. According to Ek theres two? Revision One is using reference pcb land revision two is custom pcb. Only rev1 can take a FC block, revision two has to be a short top. Id much prefer the FC to the short top. I've sent them two support requests and 2 fb msgs. Still nothing... I love their cards, however support is somewhat lacking haha

Hi all, I've recently purchased a inno3d 1080 for a backup rig. I want to water-block it. Looking at the available Blocks, I need to know which revision it is to purchase correctly. Do any of you know how to tell the which revision number it is? Inno3d support were supplied pics a week ago, however i'm still waiting for a response. I've attached the pics below.. I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

I can manage the cutting and grinding.... welding is a different story. I might put this idea back in the box. Cheers

Cheers, I knew all of that going into the crazy idea. The only way i thought of doing it was to use Acrylic/Aluminium and create the side panels etc. Do you think this would this be feasible?

Hi All, So I got my hands on a Core W200 for extremely cheap.. I'm wondering if it can be split into two cases i.e 2 Core W100's Before I go 'ham' i thought i'd ask the people with a little more experience in modding. If you're wondering why, I already have a custom Tower 900 and am looking for another full tower to become a 2ndary system. If i'm completely crazy, please let me know!

Update! I've managed to find some time over xmas and nye to work on 'Martha' Finally have all the parts to complete the build, except one!! Australia Post somehow lost my 1080 ? Luckily it was insured, so i've placed a order for a replacement... Changes made since last OP; 1: Created PSU shroud 2: Created acrylic panel for base of case 3: Rad brackets for res combo 4: Sleeved Pump Cables 5: Front Panel Cover 6: Rad Mount Plate 7: Test fit.... this is where it got interesting PSU Shroud: This was created by bending 3mm acrylic, once bent I marked the PSU fan location and cut the hole. I had some modders mesh from a previous project, so cut to size and sprayed it white. I will be putting the build name on the shroud, i'm waiting for the stickers to be created Base Plate: Once again 3mm acrylic. I used cardboard to create a stencil and then transposed it to the acrylic. I had a piece that was the exact width by luck, which mean I only had to allow for notch of the drive bay. Radiator Brackets: I'm not going to lie, this took a few attempts. I originally wanted to use 3mm aluminium or 1.6mm galvabond as i had some spare. After a day of grinding, cutting, filling and many hours later I had enough!! I dont like to give up, however I wasn't happy with any of the brackets. I trialled thicker ones, thinner ones, easier designs but still nothing was standing out to me. This was not counting, the many attempts at drilling the holes required. I don't have a drill press at present; so with a normal cordless drill this was painful! The next day i had a 'eureka' moment! I had some pieces of thick white acrylic in my spares draw! So I imported a tech drawing of the EK rad into Photoshop and designed the templates. This let me allow for the distance of the mounting holes for the XSPC res. I then pasted the templates onto the acrylic, and soon there after holes were drilled to exact spec and the brackets were made! If you're wondering why not just use the XSPC brackets which came the photon res...... Well, the bracket isn't designed to fit neatly across the rad mounts, and is only a single side mount. Basically I didn't like it! This is how the brackets ended up looking once mounted Pump Cables Sleeved: The cables were not sleeved from the factory, so I wanted to neaten them up. The pump also came wired with Sata power. Unfortunately the Sata connector was sealed up with what looked like no way of popping it open. Due to this; I re-wired it using a Molex header. I broke my 'no work when tired' rule and wired it using a female molex connector.... I also wasn't happy with the para-cord i used to sleeve it, so off went the sleeving and incorrect connector. I re-sleeved it using 3mm braided sleeving and am happy with the results. Front Panel Cover: I used cardboard once more to get a rough shape of the insert. This had to be mm perfect as it was going to be a press fit into the original front cover. I will be using glue/ epoxy to seal it once the builds up to assembly Rad Plate: I opted for a thicker 5mm sheet for the plate. I have pre-drilled all the holes for the front cover. This includes the holes where it will be riveted to the case body I decided to cut 105-110 mm holes for the fans; as true 120mm holes was cutting it to fine, as i was using a cordless drill. I ordered some 1 1/2 and 2 inch 6-32 screws from a fasteners shop. I wasn't sure of the exact length i'd need so got both... I got 50 in total, giving me plenty of spares all for under 20 AUD bargain! The 1 1/2 inch aren't quite long enough, so I'm going to cut the 2" to required length, for now they can stick out. Test Fit: As you can see, this is a very tight and packed build. Even without the MB and PSU in; you can tell it's going to be tight! Excuse the tape.... needed something to keep it in place At present I'm using a fat 60mm rad. If i reduce this to a 30 or even 40mm rad; it will give me the extra room to tuck the res back, and perhaps using a 30mm rad even fit the fans behind the mounting plate. Not sure what exactly i'm going to do.. I'm not worried about room for the 14mm hard-line, as it's going to be a simple loop. If you have any ideas, please let me know! Now I just need to wait for my 1080 to arrive, once I have it I can order the WB for it. Trying to decide between EK and Heatkiller. The Heatkiller blocks look amazing but shipped to AUS it's over 200 Thanks for looking! Any feedback, questions; feel free to comment.

Clean build Mate! Love how you tried to cram as much in to a small case as possible, props to you!! Thats half the fun aye!

have you looked at the EK configurator, i had a quick look and the reference 1060's can use the 1080 blocks. Just depends on your individual SKU

Cheers Enderman I've done that with a fan hub before, pretty blue smoke

Hi all, Just thought id check before i destroy my new res combo. Ive got a vario d5 wired with sata connector. Its got a yellow 12v and black ground only. I dont have any spare sata connectors but have molex. Just wanted to check its safe to rewire using molex connector. Reason being i want to sleeve the cables for build I'm working on. Cheers

Here's hoping!!

It definitely suited the prehistoric Anthlon setup it had inside... from a time where 'ketchup and mustard' was deemed acceptable. Prior to been given the case, i went as far as looking on the side of the road. not sure if that's sad or pure genius haha

Cheers, I didn't know what to expect when I started it, and as it's costing next to nothing i'm enjoying the process even more! You're absolutely right, it's not so much about the end result; its the about the fun you have along the way! i'm hoping my orders arrive soon, so i can get it finished over the xmas period... here's hoping!

1000% but thats the easy way! I wanted something to have fun with. I've recently finished my dual loop tower 900 build; which was blinged out etc. This was my attempt at a Sleeper build with mostly spare parts, saving them gathering dust..

Hi All, Back Story: I got given a old mid tower pc by a neighbor. He didnt want it fixed, so he said keep it. I had just finished re-watching the sleeper series.... So got to thinking, could I fit a fat 360 in there? Hardware for build... 6700k Z170 GA Gaming 6 Ram (need to buy) Storage: Sata SSD's and NVME for boot (need to buy nvme) GPU: Inno3d 1080 8gb PSU: HX850 Water Cooling Components EK XE360 Rad EK Monoblock for z170 mb XSPC Photon 170 d5 combo (ordered) XSPC 14mm Hardline Fittings (matte black) XSPC 14mm PETG Mayhem's Black Pastel Case alterations! First thing to go, were the plates covering the bays, nice and easy. This gave me the first look of the space available. Eye balling it, i figured it should fit... should... Next up, how was i going to mount the rad to the case! Maybe an acrylic panel? Decided to test the theory... At first, i was going to cut it smaller to fit inside the front cover. First fail of the project! Where was i going to fit the fans? I knew they would not fit on the back of the rad with what i had planned... So cut another panel out; marked and drilled the mounting holes. I did have to mod the front panel's lugs so it would clip on to the case. I then completed the test fit process. I tried both a 150mm EK Res and a 250mm Singularity PC res... At this stage I decided to use the EK res. That would change soon... I was going for/attempting a sleeper type build. Time to make the insides a little better! So i popped the rivets and dismantled the case. Once it was dismantled I got concerned with how weak the case was. I got the dremmel out again and cut out the drive mount sections. I cut to size two acrylic panels which in theory would make the case stronger... I secured these with Rivets; and realised the difference straight away! Looking at the pics below, the panels blend nicely and dont stick out too much! Winning! Time for paint! I decided to paint all internal sections a Flat White; took about 4 coats to get it looking ok. Next up, the rad! I had an old EK Xe360 from a previous build; its outside had seen better days So it got the white treatment too! Time for reassembly; this was my first time riveting a case back together... As it was free, i was less concerned. Took about 15-20 to line it all up and get it square'ish. I didn't realise how many rivets were needed to go back together. I'm more than happy with how it looks now, almost too good imo. Just have to wait for my acrylic order, along with my xspc fittings etc. If you have any suggestions, fire away. This will end up being used as a VR Rig. Cheers Peter

Looks great! Congrats on your first custom Loop! Any plans to water-block the GPU?

Update: worked out how to mount the 360rad Acrylic panel is for testing, to see if it would work. Please excuse the messy work I will need to find some custom bolts, as even the long rad bolts arent long enough when i tried to mount a fan. Also need to get a 120mm hole saw, thought i had one... turned out to be 127mm I test fitted a 250ml Singularity Computers Res and a 150ml EK res. I used a really quick acrylic mount i made. I did this so i can offset the res to allow more room for cables etc. I'm leaning towards the 150ml as it would be easier for planned 14mm hardline runs. What are your thoughts?

Hi All, I got given the case by a client i help out from time to time. He didnt want me to fix the pc that was inside; so he asked if i wanted it.... why not!! It was some prehistoric Athlon, cant remember what exactly..... I got to thinking, how much can i squeeze in this! I've recently updated to Ryzen Gen2 (below) so i have spare parts.. My aim will be to fit; xe360 rad either 100ml or 200ml res X170 atx board (GB Gaming 6) w EK mono-block 6700k 1 or 2 SSD's HX750 GPU (i'll need to buy) Ram (i'll need to buy) Bits power or ek fittings (depending on tubing choice) If it works, this will become a VR setup To the fun part.. Step 1: remove old parts.... check step 2: strip case and make first cuts.... check I cut out the floppy drive mount along with hdd cage. Also drilled out the rivets holding the covers in place. Step 3: Dremmel old front panel.... check Step 4: Cut acrylic to size... check Step 5: Dill holes in acrylic for front panel grommets Step 6: Dremmel the annoying lugs some more... I will be mounting the fans and rad to the Acrylic, as i cant see any other location to put it. Just need to print out the holes template, and get cutting. The PSU area is at the top, so i'm hoping to create an acrylic cover for the top section to hide cables etc. I know theres not enough clearance on the rear panel to cable neatly, but i'm not worried tbh To cover the front panel, i've got either perforated mesh or i can cut and glue an acrylic section. I'm leaning towards the mesh, for obvious airflow benefits. If i did go the acrylic route, i'd need to cut some vent holes in front panel. I'd be able to hide them; but its more work. For tubing; if i can be bothered; hardline w 16mm petg; otherwise soft tubing it shall be. If you have any ideas for this little project, please let me know! Cheers

@neSSa This is wicked!! Love the mix of acrylic and metal.

Update: This has been a long time coming, there have been many good days and bad with this build. This is the most complex build i've attempted with regards to the pass through and the what seemed simple mods... However I was Wrong! Mistake 1: snapped custom Mobo Tray as I was cutting final square out Mistake 2: First Loop Design - Was too intricate and flow even with two D5's was not working as i'd of liked Mistake 3: Snapped custom pass-through panel on roof of the case - no photo for this; I secured it too tight to the roof and it snapped adjacent to one of the screw holes. Mistake 4: Forgot to plug a fitting on the roof of the case - water leaked through the roof and onto the GPU's Mistake 5: Installed M.2 in wrong slot, and had to drain the final loop design.... Mistake 6: Did not realise there was no O-Ring on one of roof fittings - drained once again! Mistake 7: Dropping finished panels, and having to sand back and re-spray Positives: 1: Created new custom back Panel (this was the third attempt) With the advice from GGF Events, it was created from a single piece of 3mm acrylic It was then sprayed with a light coat of flat black. Final and working Panel This was the Panel design that failed Link: https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-knight-310g-gloss-squirts-flat-black_p1560604 I also realised, I could connect all the pass-throughs and reservoirs before installing it in the case. This was extremely helpful, as there was less than 2mm gap between the rear connections and where the rads mount on the side. I was very happy with how clean the connections were. I wanted there to be no visible connections for the top res, as it would be a flow point from where the cpu and GPU's connect With the help of Singularity Computers Protium res tops I was able to do this. The res's were secured with 10mm m4 bolts with lock nuts on the rear of them I also frosted a square piece of acrylic for where the 6 SSD's would be installed (more on this later) 2: Testing time! As i was only changing the loop layout on the custom panel, I did not have to touch the connections and pass-throughs in the roof. The air release valve at the top would prove to be the best feature yet! As mentioned in the mistakes, I had to drain this loop twice within an hour due to silly and tired mistakes. The air-release fitting from Bitspower came to the rescue, I connected a piece of soft tube to the top res, released the air and the GPU's drained within seconds! Time for her to come alive!! With the water leaking over the GPU's earlier on this build, I was very nervous turning it on. Even though common sense told me it had been over a week.. and there was no water remaining, but still. Excuse the white tape... I was using it to protect the paint Job I also have a TT Internal USB hub in the rear (not pictured) FYI - cabling has not yet been attacked Whats left to do... 1: create custom Cables, i received my mod-diy connectors yesterday 2: replace Sata leads with shorter (40cm is far too long as you can see) 3: Remove tape 4: Mount Phanteks strips along the bottom 5: Re-cable and tidy 6: Reinstall windows I'll post up final Pic's once the cables have been made and re-organised... Happy to take any comments / suggestions or questions. Thanks for looking.