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Hi All, Not sure if you will find this useful, but thought I'd share anyway. Currently planning a build where I wanted to mount an EK Xtop D5 horizontally to an acrylic panel i'm creating. I couldn't find a bracket that did this, so thought i'd just make one myself. Using Tinkercad I came up with this: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aBALrMXiLCv-ekd5pwmmount It's designed to fit snug around the rubber surround EK provides with the XTop. It can be secured with M4 bolts. I created a 8mm countersunk hole allowing you to hide bolt head and nuts. The mount can be used either way, but I designed it so the thicker piece is at the base. Any questions, just ask. Hope someone finds it helpful.

I thought I tried that one too? Well i think i did. I'll try again, it was giving me the s**ts so its been parked it for the moment. Im considering getting a smaller res tube so I can use my res/pump combo. Not the biggest fan of the ports on ek res. Thanks for sending the diagram

According to the specs on the site it is... that's what's confusing me!! I was worried about res position but flow to the pump is fine. I'm sure it's got to do with the pump. I've tried bottom ports, and that front port. Also the single which is connected to PT.. Might just get shorter res tube from singularity. I only had a 250ml so had to use the ek res...

Hi all, Just finished this loop. I'm having issues with head pressure from the ddc. I've been filling from the res which goes into passthroughs etc. I don't have an issue with the water getting to the pump, but when I turn it on to cycle it really doesn't go anywhere... I've been trying to figure it out but I can't... If it's something easy I've clearly missed it. I've changed in and outs, checked singularitys site for in and out ports. Basic flow path: Ddc>360rad>120rad> into pass through plate >cpu>res>gpu>pass through plate > DDC Excuse some of the fittings being loose, I was about to disassemble prior to taking the pic. If anyone can work out as to why it's happening I'd be cheering! Cheers Peter

I've provided them with the info going on two weeks ago. I'm still awaiting their reply. The pics above have been supplied along with the cards serial. Fingers crossed they reply soon.

You would think but no.. According to Ek theres two? Revision One is using reference pcb land revision two is custom pcb. Only rev1 can take a FC block, revision two has to be a short top. Id much prefer the FC to the short top. I've sent them two support requests and 2 fb msgs. Still nothing... I love their cards, however support is somewhat lacking haha

Hi all, I've recently purchased a inno3d 1080 for a backup rig. I want to water-block it. Looking at the available Blocks, I need to know which revision it is to purchase correctly. Do any of you know how to tell the which revision number it is? Inno3d support were supplied pics a week ago, however i'm still waiting for a response. I've attached the pics below.. I'd appreciate any help you can provide.

I can manage the cutting and grinding.... welding is a different story. I might put this idea back in the box. Cheers

Cheers, I knew all of that going into the crazy idea. The only way i thought of doing it was to use Acrylic/Aluminium and create the side panels etc. Do you think this would this be feasible?

Hi All, So I got my hands on a Core W200 for extremely cheap.. I'm wondering if it can be split into two cases i.e 2 Core W100's Before I go 'ham' i thought i'd ask the people with a little more experience in modding. If you're wondering why, I already have a custom Tower 900 and am looking for another full tower to become a 2ndary system. If i'm completely crazy, please let me know!

Update! I've managed to find some time over xmas and nye to work on 'Martha' Finally have all the parts to complete the build, except one!! Australia Post somehow lost my 1080 ? Luckily it was insured, so i've placed a order for a replacement... Changes made since last OP; 1: Created PSU shroud 2: Created acrylic panel for base of case 3: Rad brackets for res combo 4: Sleeved Pump Cables 5: Front Panel Cover 6: Rad Mount Plate 7: Test fit.... this is where it got interesting PSU Shroud: This was created by bending 3mm acrylic, once bent I marked the PSU fan location and cut the hole. I had some modders mesh from a previous project, so cut to size and sprayed it white. I will be putting the build name on the shroud, i'm waiting for the stickers to be created Base Plate: Once again 3mm acrylic. I used cardboard to create a stencil and then transposed it to the acrylic. I had a piece that was the exact width by luck, which mean I only had to allow for notch of the drive bay. Radiator Brackets: I'm not going to lie, this took a few attempts. I originally wanted to use 3mm aluminium or 1.6mm galvabond as i had some spare. After a day of grinding, cutting, filling and many hours later I had enough!! I dont like to give up, however I wasn't happy with any of the brackets. I trialled thicker ones, thinner ones, easier designs but still nothing was standing out to me. This was not counting, the many attempts at drilling the holes required. I don't have a drill press at present; so with a normal cordless drill this was painful! The next day i had a 'eureka' moment! I had some pieces of thick white acrylic in my spares draw! So I imported a tech drawing of the EK rad into Photoshop and designed the templates. This let me allow for the distance of the mounting holes for the XSPC res. I then pasted the templates onto the acrylic, and soon there after holes were drilled to exact spec and the brackets were made! If you're wondering why not just use the XSPC brackets which came the photon res...... Well, the bracket isn't designed to fit neatly across the rad mounts, and is only a single side mount. Basically I didn't like it! This is how the brackets ended up looking once mounted Pump Cables Sleeved: The cables were not sleeved from the factory, so I wanted to neaten them up. The pump also came wired with Sata power. Unfortunately the Sata connector was sealed up with what looked like no way of popping it open. Due to this; I re-wired it using a Molex header. I broke my 'no work when tired' rule and wired it using a female molex connector.... I also wasn't happy with the para-cord i used to sleeve it, so off went the sleeving and incorrect connector. I re-sleeved it using 3mm braided sleeving and am happy with the results. Front Panel Cover: I used cardboard once more to get a rough shape of the insert. This had to be mm perfect as it was going to be a press fit into the original front cover. I will be using glue/ epoxy to seal it once the builds up to assembly Rad Plate: I opted for a thicker 5mm sheet for the plate. I have pre-drilled all the holes for the front cover. This includes the holes where it will be riveted to the case body I decided to cut 105-110 mm holes for the fans; as true 120mm holes was cutting it to fine, as i was using a cordless drill. I ordered some 1 1/2 and 2 inch 6-32 screws from a fasteners shop. I wasn't sure of the exact length i'd need so got both... I got 50 in total, giving me plenty of spares all for under 20 AUD bargain! The 1 1/2 inch aren't quite long enough, so I'm going to cut the 2" to required length, for now they can stick out. Test Fit: As you can see, this is a very tight and packed build. Even without the MB and PSU in; you can tell it's going to be tight! Excuse the tape.... needed something to keep it in place At present I'm using a fat 60mm rad. If i reduce this to a 30 or even 40mm rad; it will give me the extra room to tuck the res back, and perhaps using a 30mm rad even fit the fans behind the mounting plate. Not sure what exactly i'm going to do.. I'm not worried about room for the 14mm hard-line, as it's going to be a simple loop. If you have any ideas, please let me know! Now I just need to wait for my 1080 to arrive, once I have it I can order the WB for it. Trying to decide between EK and Heatkiller. The Heatkiller blocks look amazing but shipped to AUS it's over 200 Thanks for looking! Any feedback, questions; feel free to comment.

Clean build Mate! Love how you tried to cram as much in to a small case as possible, props to you!! Thats half the fun aye!

have you looked at the EK configurator, i had a quick look and the reference 1060's can use the 1080 blocks. Just depends on your individual SKU

Cheers Enderman I've done that with a fan hub before, pretty blue smoke

Hi all, Just thought id check before i destroy my new res combo. Ive got a vario d5 wired with sata connector. Its got a yellow 12v and black ground only. I dont have any spare sata connectors but have molex. Just wanted to check its safe to rewire using molex connector. Reason being i want to sleeve the cables for build I'm working on. Cheers