Zerxal

I have an external hard drive of 2TB capacity. Would that be any good to use?

Would a faster microsd card show any improvements?

Could it be possible that the CPU on the Pi cannot decode the streaming link fast enough?

1080p 60 FPS. Is the 4GB 4B actually able to handle a full 1 gig down connection?

Just tried it out on my 3 B+ and it was quite awful. Lot's of stutter and long latency. Ran a speed-test cli and I was only getting 300 mbps down while being directly plugged into the switch on my 1000 down/50 up connection from Comcast. Anything you would recommend doing?

Absolutely incredible. Just tried it out on a MacBook Pro 16" over a 1G wired connection and I could not tell any difference between actually being at the computer and over the connection. Do you know if it places much processing strain on the receiving end? I'm thinking of using this to receive on a Raspberry Pi 3B+, but I'm not sure if itself decodes the 4K.

Do the settings look the same on macOS? For testing, the receiving computer will be macOS.

I'd assume it uses GPU acceleration to encode?

Should have said this in the original post, I intend to run games on this additional extension of my computer along with the other professional work.

It's not for just transferring files, it's also just being able to use programs at both places without needing to sync data continuously. The issue is actually running the cables, it's not really feasible for me to run those cables as this is technically still not a must have.

Looking for some advice here, as it may just be easier for me to purchase another low-spec PC. I have a location upstairs in my home where I'd like to place an additional location of my main computer. My main work space is down stairs, but I also like to be able to have a computer upstairs. It's honestly quite a pain having to move over to my laptop and potentially download files to sync up all of whatever I was working on. I've tested out Steam's SteamLink in-home streaming over a 1G LAN connection and Parsec, but it really is just not as good and I would not be comfortable using it for a long duration. It has blurs and audio cuts here and there - it's just not a good time. I don't think this would benefit from a 10G link either, even if I could afford the $1.5k price tag I've specced on that possible upgrade. My CPU or the receiving CPU would probably be a bottleneck at encoding/decoding the data. I'm now looking into running some sort of fiber optic display and USB cable upstairs, or running it over some other form of cable. Although, I don't really think it is that feasible to run one. Below is an architectural diagram of my home and dots where the PCs would be, with the attic and basement excluded. Blue is the PC I'd be sending the data from, and the red is where I would like to "place" an offshoot of my PC. You can see, it's really quite unfeasible for me to run a cable there unless if I want to run it outside any more than it has to. I would have to follow similar to where my ethernet cable to upstairs currently goes, into the basement, up the side of the house outside, into the office, up into the attic's crawlspace, and then finally down into the bedroom. Well over 200 feet, I would say. I now come to ask if there is any way I would be able to run displayport and USB over cat 5e and 6a through multiple switches? It would be trivially easy for me to place a PoE powered switch in the attic where the current cable to my hallway access point goes and to then drop a cable into the wall cavity next to where the proposed PC location would be. I found this on amazon to my excitement at first: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-DisplayPort-Pigtail-Style-B150-1A1-HDMI/dp/B013L1HIJU/ Sadly, after reading the reviews, it seems to not work if the ethernet connection goes through a switch or if the distance is over 125 feet. I'm sort of clueless here at any other solutions. Is there such thing as PowerLine DisplayPort and USB or some other thing that might be able to help me out?

Alright, thanks.

I have mine set to automatically optimize. I assume that should do it?

First off, Merry Christmas! Second, I have a question about my AP LR access point from Ubiquiti. I recently deployed an installation of a UDM-Pro, two FlexHD's, and a nanoHD in my home. Two on the first floor, and one on the second floor. None in the basement. It's been working fantastically, but the only slower than normal spot that I've noticed is my basement. I only get around 50-60 mbps down in my basement, whereas I get 200-300 mbps down in the other parts of my house that are even quite far from the AP. I contribute this to the half finished part of my basement being quite a distance from the closest AP to it. The speeds aren't a huge deal, since the basement is only used as a guest suite and for a exercise area with a treadmill. But, it would be trivially easy for me to get an ethernet cable to one of the walls for an AP and mount one down there. I also have a UAP-AC-LR laying around and doing nothing from my previous attempt at a Ubiquiti installation last year with only one UAP-AC-LR. My idea is to mount my existing AP on the wall for faster speeds down there. My main question is that would my UAP-AC-LR interfere with my "3rd gen" FlexHD and nanoHD? I've heard before that second and third gen devices mixed together in an installation can causes issues - is that true?

Thank you for your help throughout all of my threads. I went out and purchased everything today. Wire running and UniFi setup awaits me!

Alright, how well do you think the 1st floor AP’s would penetrate into the basement? We don’t actively live down there, it’s a guest suite and a workout room. It only needs usable speeds for some video streaming. Should I be good with this?

Is there any place you would recommend for buying these parts? The Ubiquiti store is out of stock of nanoHD’s, but if you buy from a reseller on Amazon they’re there. Also, should there be any issue with signal interference with having a FlexHD point blank behind a TV?

Any disadvantages with using "Fast Roaming" - any reason why it's not enabled by default?

Do you think in this current setup call drops would happen if you’re on WiFi calling and roam between access points? My home has no cell service, so we rely on WiFi calling when at home with our mobile phones and our current xFi pods drop calls when switching between pods.

If the PoE injector would work on my run then I’ll just use that for now and then move to a UniFi PoE switch later down the road. Is there any reason why you need managed switches to use VLANs?

Should one of these work fine? https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07G5XBM3V/ I need the single PoE port on the router because of the AP on the second floor in the ceiling. I guess I could PoE inject that, but that is going to be a many-foot long run and I don’t think it would be wise to use an injector on something that long - unless if it would be fine? I plan in the future to buy a managed UniFi switch. Really I only intend to use MicroTik for the routing and only the routing.

Hey again, this is my third (and hopefully final) revision of my home’s new networking plan. Here’s the current plan, I haven’t bothered to update the 2D network planout as if you look at my previous post it’s basically the same but some devices switched out: 3x UAP-FlexHD (from Ubiquiti) 1x UAP-nanoHD (from Ubiquiti) 1x RB3011UIAS-RM (from MicroTik) Main reason and really the only reason for using MicroTik as the router instead of a UDM-Pro is due to the cost savings. I can’t really afford to add an additional $210, plus the cost of an unmanaged PoE switch since the UDM-Pro doesn’t have PoE. If I could, I would - believe me. 3 FlexHD’s will be placed downstairs as none of them will be ceiling mounted. I originally planned to make do with only two but after look at the UniFi design center I thought it would be beneficial and worth the extra $180 to place a third FlexHD downstairs. 1 nanoHD will be placed centrally upstairs and mounted on the ceiling in the middle of the hallway. I’ll find a way to run a wire up into the finished attic and then down, I’ve been looking around and it shouldn’t be too tricky. Here’s the signal diagrams from the design center. First floor: Second floor: I’m mainly just looking for some critique here and if this seems like a solid plan before I pull the trigger on purchasing this all. Yes, I do know MicroTik routers can be quite a bit more difficult than a Unifi one but I will figure it out. Also, should the single PoE switch on my selected MicroTik router be able to power the nanoHD? I’m not that experienced in the different types of PoE.

I worded that wrongly and did not think that through, disregard what I asked. This is probably the cheapest I can get it as is before I start going to suppliers and asking how much of a discount they can give. Thank you for your help.

This is how it currently looks. First floor, I have to do two AP's downstairs. One is not enough: Second floor:

Alright, I got my floor plan from https://www.cubi.casa and have it in Unifi Design Center. From what it seems, I can use only a single nanoHD upstairs if I can get it centrally mounted in the hallway. Otherwise I will need two. My question is, do you know how well the flexHD penetrates floors? If it does it well, then I can just put two of the flexHD's fairly close to each other on the 1st floor and leave out having to fish a cable down a floor.