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madcabbit

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About madcabbit

  • Birthday Jun 01, 1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 8700K
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z370 Gaming K6
  • RAM
    32GB DDR4 3000
  • GPU
    GTX 1070
  • Case
    Masterbox 5
  • Storage
    1TB 970 EVO Plus
    512GB 960 EVO
    120 GB Kingston SV300
    5 TB Toshiba HDWE150
    1 TB WD Black WD1001FALS
  • PSU
    Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 850W
  • Display(s)
    ASUS VN247
    Dell S2716DGR
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 RGB Platinum
  • Mouse
    Logitech G302
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Alienware m17 R1 i7-9750H, 1440p 120Hz, 16GB DDR4 2666, RTX 2060

madcabbit's Achievements

  1. For the record, the problem went away after booting into my old SSD. I RMA'd the drive. They only updated the firmware (which I hadn't considered) and didn't notice any issues so they sent the drive back. The firmware update seems to have fixed the problem though. I installed Samsung Magician to keep an eye on the drive and to also check my 960 EVO. This software seems to have problems- every time I told it to update my 960 EVO, it would shut down the computer to do so and I'd boot back up and still have the old firmware. I had to download and boot from the iso specifically for my drive to get it to update.
  2. I've been having a problem for the past few months with game controllers cutting in and out, BT and USB, with any controller I'm using. I've swapped to a new PSU (850W Thermaltake GF1), swapped my power strip for another, and even connected my BT adapter to a powered USB strip, and it still happens. Three things that stand out: 1) This started happening shortly after I got a new 970 EVO Plus, moving my old 960 EVO to the second M.2 slot, and reinstalling Windows. I'm not sure if it's somehow causing these issues or not 2) Lately, I occasionally see the lights flicker. I don't know if it means I have too much draw going on. I have a surge strip with 8 things plugged into an outlet, and a separate outlet with 4 things plugged in which may all be on the same circuit. However it feels like if that was a problem, I'd be noticing more of an issue in with crashes in gaming and worse than just USB. The room has two 20A circuits, and even if everything I have in this room is on the same circuit, it feels like I shouldn't have a problem with it (PC, two monitors, modem and router, TV and soundbar, cable box, PS5, Switch, laptop, and printer.). 3) At first, rebooting seemed to help the issue, but today, that didn't help much. The next thing I can think of to do is to replace the motherboard, but if I do that, I may end up replacing the processor. As nice as a component refresh would be, it would be irritating if I did so and still had the problem. I'm also considering a UPS in case there are any brownouts that aren't making my system otherwise unstable. Current specs are: Core i7 8700K ASRock Z370 Gaming K6 motherboard BIOS 4.20 (current) 2x16 Team Dark RAM 1 TB 970 EVO Plus boot drive eVGA GTX 1070 (Superclocked, I believe) Thermaltake 850W GF1 PSU Windows 10 Pro Any help would be appreciated.
  3. I see. I wasn't aware they were using logos like that on some of the stuff they did lately. The box newegg shows looks like a standard plain manufacturer refurb box and it has /RF2 appended to the model number on the back, so I guess it would make sense if they tried using a nameplate and frame more like models like the SE there if that's the way they're going with the logo going forward.
  4. I guess I'd probably feel better buying a model I know started as an actual LUX, and not some weird frankenkeyboard. Since I'm not sure what else inside of this is repurposed, I'll probably go with the new, or a refurb from Corsair directly.
  5. I was actually editing the original post when you posted your very first reply, so you may have missed it, but that's the video I was talking about. I thought of it immediately when I saw the logo plate.
  6. Just trying to wrap my head around this. The only thing I could think of is they're taking older non LUX boards and trying to upgrade them into Lux models in some manner.
  7. How can they refurb it with a separate logo plate when a new unit's logo is part of the chassis and not a separate plate?
  8. Anyone know what's going on here? The logo plate on Newegg's refurbs is different from those on the new models. Even the refurbs on Corsair's site aren't like this. It almost looks like a repurposed Non Lux with a modified logo plate (I remember Linus making a joke about ripping off the old logo plate and putting a new one one), but the third picture shows the USB passthrough the original didn't have, and it does say its a K70 LUX RGB in the fourth picture. They even show the stock overview which doesn't match the pictures. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823816094&cm_re=corsair_rgb-_-23-816-094-_-Product
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