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Slazeus

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About Slazeus

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  1. Ok, so after hours of trial and error I managed to get rid of the folder and thought I'd update this post with my solution. So I previously tried this but while I was booted into windows and I still had permission/access issues so I rebooted into command prompt to avert the permissions issue and managed to navigate to the folder (cd /d * where * is the folder/file location) and display the drives directory with: dir /x I was then able to delete the folder without being denied access with the following command line: rmdir /q/s * (where * is the name of the folder/file you wish to delete). Everything works fine now and I can now re-install my game pass games with no issue. **WARNING** DO NOT use this solution on your default WindowsApps location unless you are completely sure it isn't used anymore. Doing so may have damaging effects on reliant programs and cause additional problems on your system.
  2. A google search of your motherboards manual says that it's your SATA 3 port that should be dissabled with an M.2 installed so check and see that your drive is plugged into a different SATA slot.
  3. So to quickly give a run down of my situation. I had to re-install windows. I had all of my windows 10 games installed on my 6TB external hdd. After re-installation my games won't let me re-install them there as "apps from another device were already there and need to be deleted first". Attempting to delete the WindowsApps folder on the external hdd is where my issue lies here: When I try to delete the folder I get this error: At this point it doesn't matter if I choose try again or skip both result in a prompt for admin permission (which I provide). After that the same error comes up again and if you click try again or skip it will then come up with this permission prompt (from myself): At this point selecting try again will just bring up the same folder access denied screen creating a loop until cancel is selected. I'll note that the SLAZPUTER\guita account it mentions is my account and the only one logged in on my computer. Aswell as that my account both has ownership of the folder and has full controll permissions: Even if I were to try and change any permissions (even though I shouldn't need to) I then get this error pop up for every folder in there (here is one of the pop ups): After spending a while googling this all I could find were numerous posts explaining how to change the permissions I already should have or suggestions to install the games on a different drive or to format this one. I cannot install them on another drive because the only other drive is my C drive which isn't big enough to have games on. I also cannot format the external drive to get rid of the folder as there around 3Tb of other important data on it and I have nowhere else with anything close to that capacity to back it up onto first. I don't know what options are left to me here but any and all suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks for reading. -Slaz-
  4. So I recently sold and old pc to my brother in law. Long story short I was too busy to re-install windows on it myself for him before he came to get it so I left instructions for a friend so they could for me. He got to the stage where it started the setup of the computer but he said he decided to turn off there so my brother in law could do the setup part himself. Now turning the pc on comes up with a post screen with various information, a couple options and a 15 second timer before it will shut down. I figured something went wrong with the installation, no big deal I'll just grab the usb again and boot into the windows installer and try again myself. The problem now is it won't boot into the usb on its own and I cannot access the boards BIOS. None of the options that appear on the post screen work expect for the bios flash utillity (the alt + f2 option). selecting anything else does nothing and the computer just turns off after the 15 seconds. I've tried several different usb ports, clearing the cmos by removing the battery for a minute and even changing to a ps/2 keyboard and even with the usb unplugged. Nothing will let me into the bios or anything. I've included a picture of the post screen I see. I'm headed back over there tomorrow to see if I can get it working again, any sugesstions are welcomed, Motherboard Model: ASUS M5A78L/USB3 Thanks, Slaz. EDIT: So it turns out the problem was caused by a bent pin in the front I/O usb ports. Disconnecting the header from the motherboard allowed the system to boot normally and I was able to get into the bios and boot to the usb to re-install windows. Thanks for the suggestions!
  5. Hi, So I recently bought a Macbook (model in title) with a "broken screen" for £60 and plan on fixing it. When I first got it I decided I would open it up and clean it out as the guy was a heavy indoor smoker. (there was literally square lumps of black dust blocking the vents.. ). After removing the logic board I replaced all the thermal paste and re-assembled it. I booted the mac after this and discovered the screen now works.. but.. only when the lid is below 30 degrees open, if I open it past that it'll go dark. So I guess the screen itself works fine. I'm not too sure what to try next. I haven't taken the display itself apart yet. Could it just be a faulty or pinched cable? Any ideas or advice on what my next move should be would be amazingly helpful. Thanks.
  6. Hi, As the title suggests, I'm having an issue running some games in full screen. The monitor will just power off and on repeatedly every 5 seconds or so (the standby light will change from blue to orange and back too). Pressing Alt + Enter to switch the game to windowed mode gets rid of it but starts again as soon as I switch back to full screen. Some info: It's a 4k g-sync monitor 60Hz (the Acer XB281HK) I have G-sync on and "enabled for windowed and full screen mode" I have V-sync turned off in games but turned on in Nvidia control panel (I was told on a reddit page somewhere that was optimal) I've made sure power management is set to maximum performance. Nvidia drivers are up to date as well as windows and other drivers The only games that seem to be effected are Black Ops 4 and Elder Scrolls Online. BO4 was a week or two ago and now ESO. I fixed it with BO4 by turning V-sync off in the control panel as well as in the game. That doesn't work for ESO. I've been playing ESO a ton with these settings before with no issue, just suddenly started today. Thanks for reading and for any suggestions RIG SPECS: Intel i7 8700k (OC to 4.8 Ghz) Gigabyte RTX 2080 Asus Maximus X Hero 32 Gb Memory (corsair vengence ddr4 3200 Mhz) Samsung 960 Evo M.2 (500 Gb) NZXT Kraken X62 2 x 1Tb HDDs 1 x 6Tb External Seagate HDD
  7. Hi folks, So I setup a high sierra hackintosh yesterday on a separate drive to windows 10. At first I was having issues when trying to boot directly from the macOS drive from the clover boot manager after installation. I decided (as I thought would likely be the case before I started) that my rtx 2080 was causing it not to boot past the apple logo. I was correct. When I remove the card completely it works beautifully. Boots fine. No network or sound issues or anything. Just fast snappy Hackintosh goodness. So I figure I'll plug the card back in for when I'm on windows (which is the majority of the time for gaming and such) and just enable onboard graphics in the bios for when I boot into MacOS. This didn't work though and even though the video is going through the MoBo graphics just having the GPU hooked up is enough to stop MacOS from getting past the apple logo. So, finally my question. Is there a way I can disable the graphics card on a software level for when I want to boot macOS but not have to remove the entire card and still be able to boot to windows with the card enabled. Also something else I noticed was when I have onboard graphics enabled (the iGPU thing that lets you do multi monitor between onboard and dedicated graphics) but the cables plugged into the graphics card my MoBo spits out a 99 error code and doesn't post. I have to have the cable going into the MoBo first, boot to windows from the clover boot manager and then change the cable over to the graphics card. My secondary question is if there is a way I can then keep the onboard graphics enabled for macOS but be able to boot with the GPU anyway to avoid plugging and unplugging cables every time I boot to avoid sockets wearing out. If you got this far, thanks for talking to read this :)
  8. Ok so if anyone with a similar problem comes across this. I fixed it by accident. It turns out that having a multi adapter plugged into the Powerline adaptor with a bunch of things plugged into that was the issue (even though the documentation said this should be fine). I tried it with nothing plugged into either unit and boom, works flawlessly now. Only downside to that is now I lose a socket in 2 rooms I guess.
  9. Hi there, So I have 2 BT Mini Connectors (Network Powerline Adaptors basically) and when I plug them in and hook up Ethernet cables to my hub / devices my entire broadband connection dies, even over wireless. Nothing can connect to the internet. It will just show a "no internet connection" screen on a browser etc. and the light on my bt home hub 6 will just flash orange for a while before going solid orange (meaning it will try to connect to broadband for a while and then give up and says well something is wrong here). Also the Ethernet connection on my pc will just say "Unkown Network". I'm not sure why they don't seem to be working and I don't understand how or why they kill my hubs ability to connect to broadband. If I disconnect all the Ethernet cables from my hub and restart it, it works again. Does anyone have any experience with these units or NPAs in general that has any ideas on how to troubleshoot this? Thanks
  10. Yeah I'd jump on a formal apprenticeship if it was close enough. I'm going to look more into it and have a look for some distance courses too I think.
  11. I work in retail right now so don't worry I already do haha!
  12. I think it's definitely possible between all the towns dotted about. there isn't really a local one tbh. The nearest one would probably be a good 40 minute drive away in the closest city.
  13. I've recently been wanting to get into tech on a professional level but I don't know where to start. Should I try and find an apprenticeship or just go for a course. What sort of qualifications would (or should) I have to work as an IT technician etc. I live in the Scottish highlands so feel free to share some suggestions if you have experience going this route from a rural area. For common reasons that tend to tie people to a location, if I need qualifications, distance learning / online courses would be preferable to re-locating. The hopeful end game here is either a self employed repair/IT tech or a employment as one. Thanks for any help or thoughts on this topic.
  14. Awesome I'll go for that then, thanks for the help!
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