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deoxir

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Hong Kong
  • Interests
    Gaming, Anime, History, Japanese Culture

System

  • CPU
    i7-9700K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z370-HD3
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mHz 8GB*2
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RTX2080Ti
  • Case
    SilverStone RL07W
  • Storage
    Crucial MX500 1TB and more
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x
  • Display(s)
    Dell 2417DG, P2214h, A Samsung 4KTV
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro M
  • Mouse
    Logitex G502 Prodigy Spectrum
  • Sound
    Audio Technica M50xBT, AD-900, AKG K271 MkII
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Yeah turned off high gain and turned on AVLS after what happened. Definitely will go see an audiologist for this.
  2. You're right. None of that stuff I wrote made sense in this context. I fully intend to go see an audiologist, and I am aware of the fact that nobody can help over the internet - when I learnt that I have tinnitus after all my life up to that point, I also learnt that what we experience as individuals is unique to us as individuals. I guess i just wanted to know whether anybody has had the same experience as I did. Thanks for taking the time to make that response, appreciate it especially the bit about low frequencies.
  3. I bought my Sony IER-M7s (using 4.4mm balanced cable) and ZX-507 a month ago and have spent about 70 hours with it. Today, I accidentally blasted music on 90% volume on high gain for about 5 seconds with this setup (I panicked and fumbled, and wasn't able to stop the music sooner). Now, I feel like vocal has an audible hiss and it and the bass sound more muffled/farther even though the instruments sound fine. I was very satisfied by this combo and loved how smooth they were, but now I guess you could say there's a bit of coarseness to them now. I just don't feel the "puncturing fullness" anymore after the accident. I tried playing the same tracks on my Fostex HP-A3 and Beyer 880 Pros and found more or less the same issue with them, but I cannot tell if they were always like this. I checked the power ratings on both the IEMs and the DAP, and concluded that if I haven't damaged my ears because of the accident, I must have instead damaged my IEMs as 90% of the ZX507's output is still 100% more than what the IER-M7s are supposed to take. I do feel a strain in both of my ears, but it's not hurting. Could any irreversible damage have been done? Will letting my ears "heal" (if any damage has been done) solve this? Appreciate it if anyone could make sense of what I wrote - I do not handle stupid errors like this very nicely.
  4. Bought an Xperia 1II yesterday. Out of the box the phone had just 20% of charge, which is kind of weird considering all the phones I had started with more. I used a wireless charging pad from Samsung to charge for three hours and a half for the second charge cycle. Came back realizing the phone had lost 30% of charge and was quite hot to the touch. I then removed it, charged wired for another 4 hours to full. Brought it to work, 7 hours later with just 2 hours of screen-on time, I'm down to just 23% of charge. Definitely moderate use - I had Bluetooth headphones on for local music during transit (1 hour), and mostly used Chrome for web browsing, downloaded a few pictures and a short video clip, and no videos nor games. I guess the question here is really whether having a phone heat up like that could cause the battery to deteriorate so bad it's doing this. I knew battery life can't be good for a phone with a 4k screen but this just seems bizzare. I also wonder how the battery is working for other Xperia 1II owners.
  5. Yep it was a tubular structure that sticks out slightly from the cooler. As far as I can tell it doesn't make the kind of noise vibration causes that you'd hear when you put only 2 screws in a case fan or something.
  6. The moment I took the card apart the warranty has already been voided so you assumed right. Rebuilding the mount does sound like an interesting way to deal with this the elegant way.
  7. I have an Aorus RTX2080ti 11G. Was having thermal issues that cause the fans to rev up to 4000 rpm periodically and since neither Gigabyte nor Newegg could offer any help locally, I decided to take things into my own hands. Took the cooler off, reapplied the thermal paste. Results: 10 degree celsius temp drop both at idle and under full load. Card doesn't sound like a jet engine anymore. Also broke one of the two plastic screw mounts. Wondering if this harms the structural integrity of the cooler mounting solution. I think it's gonna be fine because the cooler has 11 other mounting points and those are secure. It is quite a beefy cooler though. Maybe it's probably best to get a support bracket just to be safe? Also, damn you Gigabyte for everything, especially the flimsy plastic screw mount on a $1200 card.
  8. So, first I want to say NEVER put the charging case inside the same bag/pocket with any sort of sharp objects such as a charging cable. I put mine in the same bag as my portable charger and forgot about the cable entirely. Now, my question is: Do your charging case lids have any sort of wobble, or problems with the hinge at all? I did noT notice anything before, but at the same time I discovered the scratch mark, I found that the lid has an extremely slight, yet still noticeable amount of wobble to the left and the right. The hinge can now briefly stay at a semi-open position which I don't think is doable before. You can also feel a small bump when you open the case normal at the very position. i feel like I've messed up my electronics again even though the problem is trivial at best, but it irritates me how things stop working the way I think they used to be. Someone please put my paranoia to rest.
  9. Update: So I RMA'd the thing and got a new one back, and this time the LMB can move slightly to either side by 1-2mm at the pointy end. Almost as if a screw is loosened by 1-2 revolution tbh. I claw-grip the mouse so whenever I drag it around so I can feel the button shifting and it's distracting. I'm starting to think I just like the steadiness of the buttons on my G502 too much.
  10. Looks like it's my only option now. Didn't think of getting a used mouse, thanks for the tip.
  11. Yeah but currently looking for potential easy fixes as I no longer have my G502 and I use my PC daily when I'm both at work and at home. Gonna have to get a replacement mouse if I am to send it back, and I don't like creating more electronic wastes than necessary.
  12. I just bought the older G903 without the Hero sensor, switching from a wired G502. I find my new G903's right button is not properly balanced in a way that resting my middle finger on it causes it to wobble slightly. When I put two fingers on each side of the button, I find that I can actually rock the button to either side by half a centimeter. Just imagine the space bar on a keyboard but without the stabilizer - the button works but it just feels wrong. The left button and my G502 do not do this. Does anybody have the same problem as I do?
  13. That's pretty nice! Never heard of Brave, but I'll look into it. Thanks a lot for your help!
  14. Well, I just like its magnesium body and the overall build quality. I am acutely aware of the flaws of the Surface lineup but I still like it a lot. Though, I'm open to suggestions, if you think there are better alternatives! FYI the two Surface machines I have mentioned can be found at around 800 USD. Nice! If you don't mind me ask, how long does it take for you to open a Chrome window and finish loading the landing page (or the tabs page, whatever it is called) on start-up? On my pro 5 m3, it takes about 3-4 seconds before it goes from blank to showing my recent tabs and the search bar, which is unbearably slow for a 2017 machine. Any improvement is a win to me basically.
  15. That's basically what I'm wondering, whether I can notice that difference. I guess for my use case I won't even need that kind of read/write speed.
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