Altaren

So its impossible then for now. I expected as much, just couldnt find that confirmation online. Thanks

Tired of playing shooters or other action games with full size headphones and i'm wondering if its possible to get a good wireless experience with earbuds. I'm currently using Sennheiser TW Momentum 3 with a somewhat generic BT 5.0 usb adapter (something like this). Trying to google this i only run into people with delay and severe latency issues and no actual way to completely remove latency. Is such a thing even possible, maybe with a better bluetooth adapter or something else?

I think it mustve been a problem with both of my monitors, because when i went and tested it on my friends PC the system worked. Havent heard from him since so i imagine its not a problem. Its very odd though that it didnt work on two of my monitors (an AOC and a DELL) so i dont consider this fixed.

Managed to flash the bios using the second method, was not aware i had to use a different file for the AMI utility. Downloaded E7918IMS.1B0 and that one worked. Still not sure why the first method using M-Flash did not work though. Ill mark issue as solved with this post, still want to thank ShrimpBrime for trying to help

Tried, same result. Ive also added pictures to the post for clarity.

Hello, I am trying to update the bios on this motherboard (current bios version is V1.6B0), however i am running into some issues. Firstly I've tried updating via M-Flash, while it recognizes the USB it does not find the file. I'm confident I'm doing everything right on my end, still here are the steps i took: -Formatted the USB (tried two different sticks, one 16gb and one 32gb, tried different ports) with FAT32 -Copied the "E7918IMS.290" file onto it (root, no other files on the stick) -Ejected the drive -Went into uefi and clicked M-Flash, it found the USB and when selecting it i get the "There isn't any BIOS File in this USB key (root folder). Please copy BIOS File ...." -I also tried an older version (still newer than current bios), same result. Also tried renaming the bios file to "MSI.ROM" as some have suggested in older forums I then tried updating with the AMI Firmware update utility AFUDE238, the error here was "Can not analyze ROM file. ROM file may be corrupted". Steps i took: -Made the usb bootable with rufus (freeDOS), copied the "AFUDE238.exe" along with the "E7918IMS.290" onto the root of the USB. -Booted into the usb (not UEFI, when i try that it boots normally into windows?) -Ran the "afude238.exe e7918ims.289" command -it started copying and extracting but did not finish and reported the error "Can not analyze ROM file. ROM file may be corrupted" Am i missing something obvious on my end or is there some other problem going on? Thank you

Awesome, thats exactly what i was looking for with this post. There is always that one small thing Thanks

Thank you, how would i check that? or if i was searching for a mobo that already has been, how would i find one?

That and the occasional video meetings. I wouldnt save that much by downgrading with the current prices. Otherwise the configuration should work, yes?

Hello everyone, i've been tasked to build a budget office pc and i already have a configuration in mind based on current local availability and pricing. That means i am not looking on suggestions to change it but only a confirmation or two that everything would work well and be compatible. I'm pretty confident it should work but like i said i haven't done this in a few years and i would just like to make sure i'm not missing some glaring issue that would be obvious to someone that's more in touch with current releases. Thank you! Edit: I do have one specific question. Is dual channel still a thing? I see i could save a bit if i bought a single stick of 8gb, so im wondering if there would be a performance loss from that. The list: AMD Ryzen 4 3400G (boxed) ASUS MB PRIME A320M-K DDR4 4GB PC 2400 CL15 G.Skill (1x4GB) - two sticks SSD Kingston 240GB A400 INTER-TECH PSU Argus APS-420W, 120mm, 82+ efficiency IT-APS-420W LC-POWER 7036B midi ATX one random 120mm fan as a single side intake

So just yesterday i got myself a new m.2 ssd and decided instead of cloning to just go with a fresh Win10 installation. My only problem so far is that the adaptive g-sync on my monitor (aoc 24g2u) is no longer working even tho to my knowledge every setting is the same. Basically the frames are capped at 144hz constantly as if adaptive g-sync was turned off (its turned on in the mintor osd and nvidia control panel). No other hardware has been changed, running on a gtx 1070 just like before with the old windows when adaptive g-sync worked flawlessly . Here are the things i checked/already did: -Nvidia control panel under "set up gsync" i tried both enable for full screen and windowed/full screen under "manage 3D settings" it shows "G-sync compatible" and i also tried the different vsync options tho that probably doesn't matter -reinstalled drivers after a driver sweep -Changed display port slots -Reset settings in the monitor osd Am i missing some other advanced option or setting? Im pretty sure i have everything set the way it was before reinstalling windows but i may have missed something.

Thanks i appreciate the effort, hopefully i missed something obvious and somebody else can point it out. If not ill write to and directly tho i hate to keep my friend waiting for the pc

The motherboard came with the latest bios already installed

As stated in the OP, i tried two cpus and also older drivers (oldest i could find on amd site). The problem does not appear in the bios, only in Windows and only with amd drivers. After a fresh install it works normally with windows basic drivers, starts artifacting only after installing amd drivers (i suppose the igpu runs at a much slower clock or some sort of safe mode until then)

So i am buiding a pc for a friend and everything went smoothly until i installed the drivers for the 3400g. Immediately after the display started randomly flickering or those rainbow pixel lines appearing every couple seconds. A couple times the screen went fully purple as well. Here are the things i tried so far and none worked: Software: -Several new windows installs (got them straight from microsoft site) -DDU wipe and then installing older amd drivers -in the bios i tried overvolting the ram and the igpu, also reduced igpu clock Hardware: - different 3400g - different psu - different hdd - tried the two ram sticks in different slots and different configurations The only things that i havent tried and i can think of are new ram and new mobo. Is there some software related fix i havent tried? Like i said the problem only appears after installing amd drivers, no issues with windows basic drivers (except theyre slow and choppy ofc). Here is the full list AMD Ryzen 5 3400g (tried two different units) Asrock b450m-hdv 2x4gb G.Skill F4-2666C15D-8GVR (tried different configurations, speeds and even 1.3v) 420w LC420-12 V2.31

IAh i see, thank you. Still that does seem super odd, every graphics card ive had so far had a minimum of 20% and a lot of the newer ones are supposed to be able to turn off completely. EDIT: On their site featuring the gpu (here) there is a section advertising "freeze" a feature where the fans slow down and become silent. Makes me think the fans arent hardware limited to a minimum of 40% Also this review mentions the same thing "In fact, these fans also employ what ZOTAC calls Freeze, which essentially just means they will turn completely off with the card is idling or not using much power and doesn’t need the extra cooling." EDIT2: If anyone is searching for this later, the card i have is amp! core edition and it apparently doesnt have the "freeze" feature.

I just bought a used 1070 and it works great but i noticed it wont go under 40% fan speed. I tried afterburner and their own firestorm software. Seems like its bios locked, is that normal? How safe is it to reflash the bios, i did that on my 280x but that had a dual bios so i wasnt worried about bricking it.

Yea i dont see any other option. Do you know of a good guide how to reprogram a bios chip? Can it be done with this and this? If its going to cost a lot id rather just sell the thing for parts. I dont mind throwing like 10$ at it but thats about it

I did try recovery from USB but that didnt work. I did notice, that compared to starting up normally, the black screen took a couple seconds longer to appear when starting up with the WIN+B key combo. As if it was trying to do something but failed... Either way im by now confident that its the bios chip thats bad, i tried heating it up with a heat gun but that didnt do anything. The particular chip is the "winbond 25q64fvsiq", they seem cheap online but i dont know anything about replacing them. If i get this chip from China it probably doesnt come flashed, will the USB recovery thing be able to flash it? I vaguely remember that they need to be programmed to a specific motherboard? Is that still true? Its pretty hard to find good info online on how to replace the bios chip and what exactly needs to be done beforehand.

Thats fine i appreciate the help. The notebook isnt worth a new mobo id rather sell the parts but im not too keen on giving up that easy. It seems like a corrupt bios, i dont know if its possible to fix or not, i would imagine it should be. Only question is how difficult and expensive would it be.

Anyone else have any ideas? How likely is it that the bios chip died? If yes can they be bought preprogrammed for this model?

Thats right, it hangs on a black screen. The error i shown in the image pops up on first start up after clearing cmos but again when it reboots it only goes to a black screen. No key combo i tried so far got me anywhere.

Like i said the HDD works, i installed it into my PC and it goes into windows just fine. If it was a hdd issue i would get a boot error, right?

Of course, i also checked that the HDD works.

A friend gave me his hp notebook (hp 17-p101nm) which broke right after the 1 year warranty. On startup the laptop powers on, the AC led is on, the fans and hdd spin and the screen turns on but only shows black. I opened it up and removed (and later changed) the battery to clear CMOS. Every time i do that the screen shows this error message on startup but then goes back to displaying a black screen. Only shows this text for first time after clearing CMOS. I tried the WIN+B and WIN+V key combo to recover bios but that does not do anything. What else can i try? Thanks in advance