InsufficientSleep

6 hours ago, Biomecanoid said:

And what do you hope of gaining with that setup ?

to be able to stream with max fps/settings on my main computer and capture it with the second computer without sending the NDI traffic over my router.

Hi,  not sure where to post this so I'll try it here.

I'm trying to stream a bit with a dual PC setup over NDI instead of a capture card. I see that mobo's like the Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero have two ethernet ports, 1 and 2.5Gbps.

My question is, Can I link my two computers together over the 1Gbps port to skip the switch / router and connect the 2.5Gbps port to my router as normal ?  

Fixed it. Not sure what fixed it though. 

All I did was to re-seat the GPU for the 2nd time, used /scannow without seeing anything bad and 2 x DDU. 

I can now run games and my monitors works at max resolution and Hz 

Hi, My system crashes and reboots whenever I try starting a game.  I have tried every game I have and the only game that sometimes starts up is DOOM and Doom Eternal. FFXIV is really bad and crashes as soon as I hit play. 

I have used the G9 monitor without problems since May running it at max settings , but I wanted to add a second monitor.

As soon as I added the second monitor it started to crash.  When I disconnect everything it works fine again. I can use both screens just fine as long as I don't start a game.

I have tried a few different monitors, reinstalled the GPU driver , switched to different HDMI / DP-cables, tried new PSU cables.

Checked the power draw up to the crash moment but it don't even jump over idle on the PSU before it crashes ( iCue 144W + - some on idle) .

Also tried with G-sync on and off, different resolutions and Hz. I tried running my PSU in Single rail config too with no luck.

Is my 2080ti just too weak or is something else going on ? 

I deleted the event log and did a few more tries, these screenshots are the only error I get.

Monitors: 

Samsung G9 odyssey LC49G95T  5120 x 1440  60/120/240Hz 

Acer xb240H  1920x1080 60Hz  (dont even matter what monitor I use as my 2nd ) 

System Info( mostly from from Aida64 )

Operating System  Microsoft Windows 10 Home 10.0.19041.630 (Win10 20H1 [2004] May 2020 Update)

Computer Type  ACPI x64-based PC

DirectX  DirectX 12.0

Motherboard/ CPU:

CPU Type  12-Core AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, 4500 MHz (45 x 100)

Motherboard Name  Asus ROG Crosshair VI Extreme (3 PCI-E x1, 3 PCI-E x16, 2 M.2, 4 DDR4 DIMM, Audio, Video, Gigabit LAN, WiFi)

Motherboard Chipset  AMD X370, AMD K17.7 FCH, AMD K17.7 IMC

System Memory  32694 MB

DIMM3: G Skill F4-3200C16-16GTRS  16 GB DDR4-3200 DDR4 SDRAM (16-18-18-38 @ 1600 MHz)

DIMM4: G Skill F4-3200C16-16GTRS  16 GB DDR4-3200 DDR4 SDRAM (16-18-18-38 @ 1600 MHz)

BIOS Type  AMI (12/16/2019)  BIOS Version  7704

GPU / Display:

ZOTAC GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ArcticStorm 

GeForce Game ready driver 457.30

Video Adapter  GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB)

Video Adapter  GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB)

Video Adapter  GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB)

Video Adapter  GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB)

3D Accelerator  nVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti

Monitor  Acer XB240H [24" TN LCD] (T1YEE0014200)

Monitor  Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB] (H4ZN600222)

PSU:

Corsair HX850i

Pic's,  this was after 1 crash but it's the same stuff that shows up over and over.

Grateful for any help : ) 

What light / code does it get stuck on and what mobo do you have ? 

I will use 2 x 8 pin all the way from now on anyways.  Just wanted to give people a small eye opener  

Connectors and pins looks fine . Just a bit crispy in one end 

Yes it was watercooled.

I had to install the Vega card again since the 2080ti I got didn't work. The company that installed the water block messed up... so much for trying to save time letting other people do the job lol.  Anyways, I just did an auto overclock since I don't remember my old OC numbers. After the auto overclock and during a Time spy run it used 211W at max peak according to the Radeon Software. 

3 minutes ago, Chaftalie said:

Which brand was that cable?

 

 

 

 

CableMod , I don't remember if it was the Mesh or Flex type

11 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

that's not a splitter if the stock cables also split into 2 PCIe 8pins.

When one cable turnes into two cables I call it a splitter , because the cable splits .  But you are probably right 

I'm just posting this as a heads-up to everyone using a cable splitter.   I work with electronics everyday and should have known not to use a splitter to power my gpu while overclocking. 

The reason I used it to begin with is because it was the only cable I had at hand at the moment and I thought " I'll replace it later when I start turning stuff up " .

So yeah... I forgot all about it until I was taking my PC apart before Xmas.  

I'll let the picture speak for itself.  

Corsair HX850i powering a OC Vega 64 card with a single 8 pin to 2x8 pin splitter. 

Any led lights like boot, vga, cpu, dram or postcodes it get's stuck on when it tries to start ?

Thanks everyone.  So CPU first then .  

Hi everyone.

It's time to upgrade again and I cant decide were to start.  Should I upgrade my CPU or GPU first?  

I mainly use my computer for gaming and occasionally some streaming.

I almost ordered a new GPU last night but thought I should check with you guys first to get a second ( or more ) opinion.

It stands between getting a 2080TI or the Ryzen 9 3900x

This is what I have today 

Mobo : x370 Asus ROG Crosshair VI Extreme 

CPU : Ryzen 7 1800x OC to 4.1 GHz 

GPU :  Asus ROG Strix Vega 64

Ram :  32Gb 3200MHz  G.Skill Trident Z Royal

PSU : Corsair HX850i

Borderlands 

20 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Maybe you could list what game it is? DX12 implementation has been quite bad when applied to DX11 titles, as opposed to making it easier to run it just adds a translation layer for the API

 Tom Clancy's Division 2.  

So I have a game with the option to turn on DX12. 

Without DX12 enabled my system runs at around 65c.

With DX12 enabled  my system spins up the fans and the temp's go up and stops at around 85c

I'm running a full water cooling setup with overclocked Ryzen 1800x 4GHz and a overclocked Vega64 with a slight undervolting.

so my question is ,  do DX12 makes your components run warmer or is there something wrong ?    

If you have been thinking about the i5 7600k I guess your budged is around $300, is that correct ? 

Updated my loop.  I had clear petg in my first loop and a single cpu water block and radiator

Current parts : 

Case : Thermaltake VIEW 71 TG.
Motherboard : ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Extreme. 
CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 1800X.
GPU : ASUS RX Vega64 STRIX  OC 8GB.
RAM : 64GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance 2666MHz.
Fan's : 3 x Corsair ML140 PRO rgb and 3x Corsair ML120 PRO rgb
Storage : 1 x Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD and 1 x 2TB Crucial MX500 SSD
PSU : Corsair HX850i  with cablemod cables.

Custom water cooling with hard tubing.

Ek monoblock and GPU block.

XSPC fittings and radiators.

Bitspower tubes.

Orange because of Ryzen  

Hi all.   I can't deside on my fan directions for my top fans.   I want positiv air pressure because the case have an air gap on almost 10mm between the glass panels and the case frame.   The case is the TT view 71.   In the front I have a 280 radiator with 2 x 140mm fans pulling air in.  I have one 140mm exhaust fan.   The top rad is a 350 with 3 x 120mm fans.  I kind of want to have those to pull air in too to get a relativ dust free case,  but will it get too hot in there?  What do you guys think?   I'm not done building so swapping the fans around is easy now. 

You can read up on the chipsets here https://www.amd.com/en/products/chipsets-am4

thanks

Hi all.

I am about to start a new project / pc build, but this time i'm gonna to be on Discord guiding my fiance who live in another country on how to put it all together with the help of a web cam.

All the parts are shipped to her and so on.  The building part won't be the problem........ I think, but the software / driver side will take some more effort to get up to date in my mind.

Is there a solid program or tool that will detect and install all driveres for you? I usually go to all the manufacture websites and find them manually ,but a tool for it would be great this time.

I found something called "Snappy Driver Installer"  here on the forum,  anyone used it before? anything better than that one?

Hopefully it will all work so she get's a stable and up to date gaming rigg.

All help appreciated  

You are saying that you took one ram stick out.  Did you try it with only the one you took out too?

Just so other people dont have to look for it 

0d - Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes

06 - Microcode loading

03 - System agent initialization before microcode loading

OE - Microcode not found

So I have tried about everything, I  even went out and made a few more test videos. 1080p looks blurry on all of the videos after uploading it to YouTube.

The best quality and the least amount of blur is when I upload in something higher than 1080p.  So guess I'm gonna start record and upload in 4K from now on. 

32 minutes ago, LoGiCalDrm said:

Yeah, thats really bad. Its like Youtube has taken major part of your bitrate and threw it to trash. Sadly I haven't had camera for recording higher than 720p30. So my videos looks just as blurry in YT as they do in VLC with 20k bitrate (24k before encoding with Resolves YT preset). Maybe try with double bitrate. It probably kills your upload, but for testing maybe worth it.

27 minutes ago, HunterAP said:

Just to make sure, what bitrate is the video you upload? YouTube says that for 108p/60fps you'd want 12Mbps for that video.

https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/1722171?hl=en

You can always try setting the "target bitrate" to something higher than that, as it could actually be YT's compression being really bad on your video.

I will keep testing different bit rates and settings.  I have tried stuff from 10Mbps to 50Mbps with variable bitrate and with constant bitrate.