GoldDragon007

Hello, If you ever wonder how good is the Pimax Crystal here's the last 1-month struggle with it. Ahh, where should I start... Let's start with the positive part, that will be fast. Beautiful display. There's no doubt about that. It does not have any of the typical issues like other "cheaper" headsets like distortions, reflections and similar issues. It's clear and beautiful to play on. One side note, I do see that it does not cover for me the full horizontal view, but that's most likely as I have right now the 42 IPD lens. The DMAS speaker has a good sound, but it's extra compared to what the package includes by default. Well then the negative side, is... everything else. Tracking. Well with the 1.2.2 update, it wasn't good at all, but with the new 1.3.0 update, it's complete trash. It made a lot of games unplayable as it makes you fail in the action. In Beat Saber you will have missing hits, in Master Bladesmith the Bow challenge is an extreme challenge. If it's kept in one place, it may slide away, it will stuck in specific positions. Not pleasant. I even don't get it how they released such a buggy version to the public. Controller. Feels cheap, behaves cheap, looks cheap, and most likely cheap. I had at the beginning smushy buttons which are less smushy now, but I don't feel it better than an Xbox controller's button or equivalent. Also, I have sometimes when the triggers give a squeak sound. Getting low battery warning sometimes in Steam VR while the controller is reported to be fully charged... Comfort is terrible. I don't have that alien-shaped head like the guy in the video who shows how to wear the headset. For me, it lands the back piece somewhere in the middle of my head where it cuts in and after 1-2 hours of continuous use makes pain and numbs that part of my head. Because it's not possible to put it in place, it also wants to pop down always from my head, especially when I have to crunch down fast. Also, as it's front-heavy, it always slips forward on my hair (I have long hair, and it's tied at the back). Do you have to wear glasses, well I have bad news for you then. I have to also, and mine touching the VR's lens. This caused damage to the lens. Light bleeding. With the bigger "comfort" facet mask, I have only light bleeding at my glasses stamps and at my nose as it does not seal at all in that place the rubber thing that should. USB hub. They give a USB hub with the device to slow down the battery drain, which does work and like this, it only consumes one USB from the PC, BUT they used micro USB as the connector for the HUB. After around 3 weeks it's already loosened the connection. Due to the stress that was given by the short USB A to USB micro cable and the headset's cable. However, I did not have to remove the battery to charge it separately. From which the battery. It's hard to remove. You have to bend the plastic clips to remove it. I wonder how long will this last... Software. Not good at all. The calibration process does not set up the guardian walls. Randomly the calibrated area moves when the headset is switched between modes on/off/sleep. Randomly your head height will be on the floor height in such switches. The Pimax software froze down. The firmware update crashed but updated the hardware... (how?) All of this was for 1600 USD (in my case that's 1600€ + tax so it was about 1850€) at least when I bought it. I feel like I'm beta-testing hardware. Like an early access software. And I can call it most likely lucky, as others had more insane issues. (i.e. any other device is connected via USB except the mouse and keyboard then the headset wasn't detected...) It feels like it was designed for a single head shape, pushing untested firmware to a stable version (and no possibility for the user to downgrade), It feels like a joke for this amount of money, and I will see how the currently unavailable features will be implemented. I do understand if some features are not available, but if the features that are available on the release are trash and they even make it worse and can't roll back that is a problem.

Jack can easily splitted into left and right RCA signal...

Hello, I looking a device that can switch surround sound 7.1 + mic between two devices as input and one as output. Preferably with jack or RCA connectors. Is there such thing?

Well, yeah sometimes it just a few 10 cm away from the transmitter, I place between my hand and it starts breaking the connection... kinda sucks, but truly the sound is good. Except when randomly has artifacts. As I living in a high population area this won't be my choice. I also have now with me an EPOS | Sennheiser GSP 670, which has also a really good sound, the only difference between the two is probably from the driver size, but that one has better wireless range, even tho if it has no jack, I think I will choose that one as it has a somewhat better value in my eye. And I also realised, how bad can be the software simulated surround sound, just simply sometimes doesn't hear the direction...

No, without contact. I don't talking about any bone conduction thing. I talking when somebody is behind you and whispers from back near your ear. Without any contact, and without blowing on you. Could you also tell it? So at least I can look on it. Agree, i.e. LDAC support is 0 on Windows. I had a Sony wh-1000xm5 which I were not able to make it work on my machine. It's connected, but it did not give any sound, and when it did it was soo bad, that a pot had better sound reproducibility capability. With android phone it went like a charm... BTW bluetooth is 2.4 ghz. I think the gaming headsets operates usually a different frequency or mode than bluetooth.

If you don't have brain than it's hard indeed. If you have then it's easy. When somebody wipers near your ear you can tell which direction the sound coming from if not you have a hearing problem. Replacing somebody with speakers doesn't change anything.

You trying to explain this to somebody who has it and hear the difference... The only one thing that I need to admit that it does matter how you place your headphones, as it changes the where you hear from. I had to learn literally again where to place my headphone to have the correct surround sound otherwise the rear or the front was missing if I place too front or back on my head. The only one pain in it the sound quality, it's just no possible to make a 1-2 cm driver the same sound like from a 4-5 cm one... Unfortunately, as they sometimes make really terrible job...

Regarding the budget, max 300€. I try to avoid bluetooth headphones as with PC there's struggle to use them. I had also struggle to connect my PXC 550 headphones to my pc... And it just partially functioning (mic and output ok, but media buttons not really). Windows messing up something as on linux it does work better. Surround sound is a must for me. Either physical or from a good software solution. But it must have a good sound also, as otherwise I won't change from my current one, that's for sure. Going back from surround to stereo is like going from stereo to mono. A big no-no.

Hello, I looking for headphones for the following feature set: - wireless - physical mute for mic (either button or flip up) - has a good range indoor (around 10-15m) - has good sound and surround sound - easy to switch between 5.1 speaker setup and headphone (if headphone requires equlizer setting, it must be applied only for that) - capable of using wired (i.e. battery run out) and wirelessly - nice to have jack i.e. for xbox, phone or other jack device Currently I have a Razor Tiamat 7.1, but it's sound is... not good, in terms of quality due the small drivers. Even if it has directional sound with proper content. And it's wired. Then now I bought a Corsair virtuoso rgb wireless xt which I will send back, as its... useless. It has good surround with dolby access, but it not capable wirelessly to cover my flat, while the Sennheiser PXC 550 is capable of with high definition transfer mode enabled. Also, the sound of this is feels dull for me, with some EQ it's possible to somewhat fix it. But still sometimes just loose the connection or the audio has sudden delay/loss. Start playing something doesn't immediately plays on windows the sound. I don't know what it does or doesn't but its frustrating. But in theory it has multiple platform support... And it's not too comfortable either. I had several years (3-5) before access to Logitech G9XX headphone to try it out, but it didn't amazed me the surround that it had...

Hi @MoboMikey, After a long time I've almost finished everything in my system, some integration is still missing with home assistant and some fine tuning, but it works everything (it seems at least). I using these cameras at the end (powered from Edge switch 48): 6x Hikvision DS-2CD2183G0-IS records 4k@12.5 1x Hikvision DS-2DE4425IW-DE records wqhd@25 1x Hikvision DS-2DE2A404IW-DE3 records wqhd@25 The NVR is Blue Iris, with deepstack for motion detection on the same machine. Currently, the machine has 8 cores and 12 gigs of ram, but I think I will reduce it as it never goes over the CPU 20% (spikes from deepstack, the usual is 3%) and the ram 23%. Of course this is after optimalization. All continous + alert recording, with h.265+ coding. The CPU is an Intel core i7 10700. Because this has quick sync, I don't need a GPU to encode the video for live view.

Does anybody know full tower cases (or bigger) with handle besides these? Cooler Master: COSMOS C700P Black Edition COSMOS C700M Stryker SE Corsair Graphite Series™ 780T White (?)

In the server, what's the intended use of the video card? Only video decoding?

I think you need to look a specific software, because I don't know if a laptop can put out specific 3D signal...

I've just copy here some text from here that I've found a few days ago when I looked for the same question: Your use case will define what you need to install. What you need to remember is: - All distros can virtually run the exact same software nowadays, so choosing one doesn’t close any doors - All desktop user focused distros can play games. With that out of the way, we can boil down your choice to 2 factors: - What desktop environment do you want to use - Do you prefer to use something stable, or do you want the latest software available Desktop environments: GNOME is the one that ships by default on most distributions, including the biggest one, Ubuntu. GNOME is very simple, sleek and minimalistic. It’s really easy to handle once you’ve spent 5 minutes with it. It can be customized using extensions, but these aren’t always super stable. GNOME is the default for Ubuntu, Fedora, and a GNOME variant is also shipped by almost all distributions. KDE or Plasma is the second big one. it offers customization options for almost everything. From the position of the panel, the widgets you want to add to it, the whole layout of the desktop, the behaviour of the windows, the position of the window controls, everything can be adjusted to your liking. KDE is the default on KDE Neon, its flagship distribution, and KDE variants are available for most major distros. Now you get many smaller desktop environments. Cinnamon is the pendant of KDE, but using GNOME-like technologies and applications. Its default layout is also very close to wht you’d get on Windows, but it can be changed to your liking easily. XFCE is a lightweight desktop environment, which might not look as good by default as the big ones, but is still very easy to customize, and runs on lower end machines without a hitch. Mac users might prefer Pantheon, which ships on elementary OS, and uses a layout reminiscent of OSX, with a similar dock and top bar, minus the global menu. You can also use MATE, which is using the same technologies as GNOME, but with a more traditional desktop behavior, or Budgie, which is a derivative of GNOME as well, with its own notification center and more customization options. If your PC is not that fast, I’d recommend XFCE, although KDE can run pretty well with little system resources as well. The distribution Ok, so now you’ve chosen the desktop environment you want to go with. Now you need to decide which distribution you’re going to get. GNOME: If you’ve chosen GNOME, and you want stability, your options are either Ubuntu LTS, which has a very stable base, but older software, or Fedora, if you’d rather avoid proprietary software. If you’re allergic to the Ubuntu Orange, Zorin OS is also a very good choice, it uses the same base as Ubuntu LTS, but has tweaks that make it look a lot more modern, in my opinion. If you’ve chosen GNOME and want the latest software versions and updates, you can go with Manjaro GNOME edition. It’s what we call a rolling release: this means it doesn’t have “versions”, it’s just continually updated with the latest software as they come out.If you want a healthy middle ground between stability, and up to date programs, go for the latest Ubuntu release. ubuntu has long term support releases, OR LTS, but it also has a new version every 6 months. Pop!OS would also be a nice contender KDE If you’ve chosen KDE, the stable choice is KDE Neon. It’s a distribution based on Ubuntu LTS, so it’s rock solid, and has the latest KDE Plasma updates as a rolling release.If you’d prefer a more bleeding edge system all around, go for Manjaro KDE, or the latest Kubuntu release Cinnamon If you’ve elected to use Cinnamon, your stable option is Linux Mint. It’s also based on Ubuntu LTS, and has the latest Cinnamon updates. It’s customizable, simple to use, and won’t die or crash on you.Once again, the less stable route will be Manjaro Cinnamon XFCE XFCE has less choices, but you can get a very stable one in the form of Xubuntu, the XFCE based Ubuntu variant. Zorin OS Lite also offers a very good looking XFCE.Manjaro XFCE will give you a great, bleeding edge experience. Pantheon Your only real choice for Pantheon is elementary OS. elementary OS developers actually develop Pantheon as well, and they ship it in a beautiful package. The above well describes what you need to consider, however a little sidenode, he says "All desktop user focused distros can play games" that's true, but the amount of time and hate affinity you may need to put into may differ. On top of that I would not say that linux is beginner friendly, so if you change, be prepared (I mean, I using for my work linux for 8 years by now, and I still hate it, but I have no other choice, because the developer tools aren't existing for windows... yet).

Hi According to the projector, you should use HDMI if you want to view 3D content. To view 3D in your case you will need: - 3D content obviously, this can be a blu-ray (disk or image*), or some kind of SBS* (side-by-side) or OU* (Over-under) 3D mkv file or even 3D youtube video (this guy has really good demos: https://www.youtube.com/user/1tompo1 ). But be carefull with youtube 3d, because somehow it needs to detect your current setup, from my smart TV app it works fine, but projectors usually doesn't have build in youtube app - a software (powerDVD) or hardware (blu-ray player that supports 3D content) that can play that specific content but powerDVD is super slow app and may not work well or at all, try to find another one - a display that supports it and coresponding glasses (you have it) Generalically that's what you need. * These can only work if you find a hardware or software that can convert your thing to proper 3D stream for your projector. The projector needs to detect automatically if a 3D video signal was sent. Some projectors allows to change the 3D settings on the OSD menu, by allowing to chose one of these: 2d to 3d, 3d side by side, 3d over under, etc, but I think your's doesn't support this. So technically you need a device that's can output for you a 3D signal, like a blu-ray player (that supports 3D), PS, XBOX. (well the newer once with proper player theoritically) In 3D in your case only 3D. Or maybe 2D too, if you find a software to do it. By default no. It does not support 3D. It supports 4K, but not 3D. Before you trying out your device, charge up your glass. If you see two images on eachother with some kind of horizontal offset without glass when the movie runs, you see a '3D image'. If you see the same with glass, then your glass may not work, or not the projector does the 3D and therefore the glass can't work with it (this can happen with PC with software provided 3D).D