spyderrp7

I have a really good big tower, and air flow should be good. My other non solid state drive is at 40 degrees Celsius. But why my SSD (system drive) is running so hot? Around 50-52 degrees. Is this something normal for SSDs? I have the SanDisk SDSSDA480G. This is the tower I have:

Hi, I have a large 5TB drive that is full with photos, libraries, general small size files. I need to format that drive, so I want to copy the data to another drive before formatting. After formatting I should replace the files back to the drive. Does it make any sense to zip/rar the files instead of just copying the files?

After digging a lot on the internet I finally found a solution. With Archos android app I was getting the following SMB error: (0xC0000205). So I googled the error code, and I found this post: smb - Hudson Windows service slave launch causes SmbException - Stack Overflow In there it talks about changing the IRPStackSize (https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/285089) So follow the link and add the new IRPStackSize DWORD in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\LanmanServer\Parameters and set the value to 50 works for me. Hope this helps other people. Link from here: https://www.tenforums.com/network-sharing/43931-samba-access-android-device-stopped-working-6.html

Yes. I even tried sharing a new folder on the R drive. There is something weird with that external drive. The share works with other PCs in the network but the issue is only with Android devices. I can see the share from the Android but when I try to access it (for example with VLC) it says username/password isn't correct (authentication failed).

My computer has 2 internal drives (C, D) and one external (R:). All my computers are in the same workgroup called WORKGROUP and have installed Windows 10 64bit. On my network settings I have password protected sharing. So here is the issue I have some shared folders on my external drive (R) and I can access the files from my other computers. For some reason my Android devices (Sony TV and ASUS Tablet) can't access the files inside the folders that are on the R: drive. I can see the shares but as soon as I try to get in the folders there is something wrong with the authentication, it doesn't accept the username/password that I input. But they (Android devices) can access the shared folders from my other drives (C,D). This only happens with my Android devices, other Windows machines can access the files on the external drive. The weirdest part is that those shares used to work a few days ago. I can't recall what went wrong with my external drive. I have connected my external R drive directly to my Sony TV. Could that cause any issue and now my shared folders don't work when the external drive is connected to my computer? It is driving me nuts, please suggest what I could look and check.

So I did a first full run with Surface Test at read only mode. No errors at the test, neither at the SMART data. The Raw Read Error Rate didn't change at all (0) and the Ultra ATA CRC Error Count is kept at the same value it was before the test (35188). Now I'm running a second test which is Read-Write-Read (Refresh Data Area). Let's see how that one goes. Any advice or idea how I could stress test the controller are very welcome.

As I described above, I'm thinking of running full extensive tests with Hard Disk Sentinel on my test drive (I don't care if data gets corrupted on that drive). What would you advice to look for on these tests and what kind of tests would you perform? I'm not giving any info on the controller card, because I want this thread not to be specific about my actual controller card, but how would you go on testing any controller card.

Hi, I'm looking for some guidance on how to troubleshoot a USB 3 controller. This USB 3 controller is PCI-Express connected on my motherboard and it seems to corrupt (cause filesystem errors) on my external harddrives. It usually works just fine, but in the past 3 months I had 2 incidents were my harddrive needed to be scan/repaired by Windows. Yesterday I realized that most of the files in my photos folder just went missing, and now that drove my nuts. So I removed all harddrives connected to that USB 3 controller and I want to troubleshoot it to be 100% sure that there is something wrong with the controller. I have one spare harddrive which is in perfect working condition and I could use that one to do tests on the controller. So I figured this test: I could use the program Hard Disk Sentinel, while the test drive is connected on that USB controller. I could run some tests on the drive, like Surface Test (which is read only), or maybe Refresh Data Area (which is read-write-read). If the test shows that I had a lot of Raw Read Error Rates then maybe the controller is faulty. That is of course , if I first run the same test on another controller where I get zero Raw Read Error Rates. So this is my idea of troubleshooting the USB controller, because mostly it is running fine, but losing files is unacceptable. Please collaborate and tell me how you would troubleshoot a USB controller to make sure it is working perfect. I'm on Windows 10 64bit.

So I finally have found the solution. I had to adjust NVidia power management setting from optimal to max! No freezes now! Thank you all for the help!

Why would it be miserable for watching movies? Anyway, I don't play games, I just need a lot of workspace in my setup, that's why I moved on to 4K.

WIth the 250GTS I had installed drivers 342.01. As far as I remember I must have installed the latest drivers 388.31 over it after I switched with the 1050. So I let the Nvidia installer to update everything. No issues with the installation, everything went fine.

I got another 2 freezes even after changing the scaling. I even tried the MSI Kombustor application to check for the GPU memory overnight. No errors there. What else could I check?

Wow!! I have never seen that setting before! What does is it do? I mean I run the native resolution of the TV, and I only run Windows on that resolution. I don't run any games at all or any other program that would use other than the native TV resolution. It might take a few days to validate if the freeze go away, since it's quite random how and when it happens. So I have set it to GPU and fingers crossed, let's see what happens! Thank you for the advise!

I don't use scaling, I have it at 100%. That's why I got 40 inches :-)

I hope someone can help me. I am looking for a software that can validate the stability of my NVidia 1050. If you want all the details please read below: On summer I got my new PC. The specs are intel i7 6800K, MSI X99A SLI Plus, G.Skill 32GB DDR4-2400Mhz. Please note, I have Turbo Boost disabled and I do not overclock anything. Standard stock speeds to everything. I installed Windows 10 and it was working great. Originally I was using that hardware with a very old Nvidia 250GTS. So about 2 weeks ago, I decided to go 4K, so I got rid off of my 2K Dell 27inch monitor, and got instead a 40inch Samsung UE40MU6402. Great TV, supports 4k uncompressed and very cheap too. So the Nvidia 250GTS doesn't support 4K, so I replaced it with an MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Aero ITX 2G OC 2GB. I connect the TV with the 1050 with a HDMI 2.0 cable (2metres cable). So it's working good BUT I then started noticing some weird performance. Sometimes the computer freezes. The mouse freezes, nothing is moving, keyboard freezes, and even the reset switch on the PC case doesn't work!! So my first thought was it could be the memory. So I ran MemTest 86+ for more than 8 hours. It managed to do 3 full passes with no errors at all. After a week of having these random freezes, I then noticed that some random times (without freezes) some pixels on the screen that supposed to be black, were going black white. Some really random pixels, they were almost like flashing. That was when I got the idea that it could be something wrong with my 1050. So I turned off the computer, opened the Tower case, and noticed that my 1050 wasn't pushed all the way in the PCI-E slot. I thought "that was definitely the problem", but no.... it didn't stopped the PC from freezing. So I updated to the latest drivers. Nope, still freezing. So I reopened the case completely the removed the 1050, and reinstalled it firmly. Nope, still getting freeze at random times. So 3 questions here: 1) Could the GFX card gone bad because I had it for more than 2 weeks not inserted correctly? 2) Is there any software I could test the card for stability like the MemTest 86+ is for memory? 3) is there anything else you could advise me? Sorry for the long post. Thank you so much for reading.