Lennart van de Merwe

I don't think we understand each other. Doesn't really matter, because I'm recommending the 1660 either way.

Now, how will a 3770 bottleneck an rx570.

The i7 3770, will be bottlenecked by an rx 570 (also, BF5 on an rx570 seems like a bad investment, especially if you're looking 2 years ahead). I myself had an i7 2600 + gtx 970 (gtx 970 = ~rx580 -depends on the game), by this logic the i7 3770 will not bottleneck an rx580 or an rx590. Now, I think, especially with your golden electricity, the gtx 1660 will be the best. If I'm to guess, the 1660 will be bottlenecked a little bit by the i7-3770, but not by much. Edit: note: the i7 2600 did not bottleneck the gtx 970.

Aight chief, choose the ryzen 7 model. You aren't going to be doing heavy AutoCAD on either, but it's possible. If it is possible, you can upgrade to 16 gigs later.

The left laptop for sure, mainly because it has SSD storage and quite a bit extra CPU headroom. You aren't going to be using more then 8gb with gaming on this laptop. Middleload to heavyload video editing isn't really gonna work out either way, so just stick with 8 gb ram laptop that has the better CPU and storage. If you want more specific advice tell us what you're gonna be doing with the laptop.

have you tried rebooting your PC? Maybe try install the installation media from the win10 website again. Also, make sure you have enought storage space, that can also reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally slow down that software and prevent it from working normally (this includes having just enough storage). If you have struggles with getting extra storage you can contact microsoft support, they've helped me out when I couldn't upgrade from win10 1803 to 1903, because I couldn't clear up enough space. Btw, in case you think you can't just stop it, you can as far as I'm aware. When you try to close the window it should go ahead and fix anything it broke (I've had to break off the same software when using it on a USB in the same stage and that fixed itself). If it still doesn't work you can either A: throw the device out of the window, or B: contact microsoft support.

No. B250 mobo's go up to 7th gen intel processors.

Yes, that's why you really shouldn't want a power outage while your PC is on and directly plugged into the wall. When you force a shutdown it is actually a bit more gracefull as far as I'm aware.

As a general rule of thumb, do not disconnect anything inside the PC as long as it's one and/or plugged into the wall.

If you really need lots of powahhh, the best on a semi-low budget is get a ryzen 1700 secondhand (120 euros in the Netherlands). Else go for an older i7. Really depends on your exact budget and 2nd hand market. Edit: nvm. You need to get more money first or try and get a platform you can gradually upgrade. You CAN start with a low performance CPU, because programs like greenfoot and notepad++ don't use a whole lot of CPU power.

No, you should be fine. I usually even use wet cleaning cloths that are waterbased and it's fine.

Sekrut 1100-series confirmed? Maybe remove the 980 and only have the rtx 2080 + a clean driver install could help out.

Not a whole lot of details, so here's a vague sketch to get you on the way. Either go with a ryzen 5 3600x or ryzen 7 model depending on your workload (gaming or next to gaming also video editing and multicore workloads) Bequited dark rock cooler for the r7 and for the r5 a pure rock. Get an X570 asus strix mobo, cuz ya can't go wrong with those. 2 x 8 gbs or 4 x 4 gbs of 3600 Mhz ram if your budget allows it and do not go below 3000 Mhzs. Depending on your workload I recommend either gtx 1660 if you don't plan on gaming, but I assume you will, so go for an rtx 2070 -supe- if your budget allows it. 128 gb SSD for Win10 and frequently used programs such as chrome and word. HDD for mass storage ATX case. PSU that can handle the required power draw from your system, get like a corsair CX series -the newer ones- PSU. (I dunno a whole lot about PSUs so feel free to post a new topic once you got your other components sorted out).

Plug them into your PC directly for now. When you have the budget get an AMP or DAC AMP. You'll already start hearing a clear difference when buying DAC AMPs from around 50 - 60 euros (that'd be 55 - 65 US dollars). This difference does depend on how good your headphones are.

Now, I don't know a lot about PSUs, but I'd like to ask first: are you sure the rest of your PC is okay, because a failure like that can also short your Mobo or other parts. Might be smart to first take a look at that.

Yes

Alright, at least I now got a new lead that might get me somewhere!

How does that work?

Also get the asus Mobo, but believe us when we say that the 3700x is the better choice. It performs similar to the 9700k in games to the point it doesn't matter and in every multi-threaded workload it out-performs the i7-9700k

Get the 3700X with the ASUS mobo.

As it is gonna be for gaming I suggest the i5 2400 option and than throw in the 4 gb stick of DDR3 you have laying around that would bump you up to 8 gb of ram and a somewhat decent cpu. As for the GPU, you're in big trouble, seeing that you're from the netherlands as well you can get gtx 960's for 60 euros, but that would put you over budget. The AMG GPUs you mentioned could, with patience and luck go for about 40 euros, but your PSU probably can't power them. The only GPU from the green team you could buy and power is the gtx 760, which is still a decent GPU. So my suggestion is: i5 2400 full system, non-activated windows on this bad boy, throw in you extra 4 gbs of ram and buy a GTX 760. Specs: i5-2400 8gbs of ram OEM mobo (presumably) some HDD Win 10 Gtx 760. This system will run eSports titles for the coming years on 1080p mid to low just fine.

Either your GPU is doneso or the monitor is on drugs, I highly doubt the latter.

Depends on what the rest of your system is gonna be, chances are that you aren't gonna need 800w and would indeed be better of getting the 600w gold.

I recently bought a 29 inch LG ultrawide. It's great and all, but it's kinda... ya know... wide. This has created quite the hassle on my desk, especially because I have another 22 inch and 23 inch monitor that need to fit as well. My current setup is as shown in the attached picture. Now I'd like to move the top monitor to the right of my ultrawide in either a vertical or horizontal orientation (probably vertical), have my ultrawide be straight in front of me and not angled and a bit of center AND I'd like my 23 inch to the left not to fall of my desk (the 23 inch's position for the rest is fine with me). Now, everyone should be thinking: wallmounts. Right, my step-dad does not like that idea in the slightest and so it'd like to avoid wallmounts. I've got a single wallmount currently in use with the top monitor in the picture. I've got all the OG stands that go with the monitors. I've got about 60 euros to spend (if you have a more expensive option, feel free to submit it because if it's genius enough I'm willing to spend more) I'm willing to do some DIY work to make things work-out. I myself was thinking of a deskmount, but the back of my desk is about 12 cm T H I C C and I haven't been able to find a single deskmount that supports such a dummy T H I C C desk (I'm really living the 2017 dream here with T H I C C memes still making me chuckle). You also got multiple monitor stands, but those never support 29 inch ultrawides + a 23 inch + a 22 inch (even if it's mounted vertically). I hope some of you guys have some good suggestions! Thanks in advance!

I HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION. 'TIS THE MONITOR PERFECT FOR ME. https://www.coolblue.nl/product/809446/lg-29wk600.html HDR10 support, freesync, 75 hz, 2560 x 1080, 29 inch, IPS, A DISPLAYPORT -!-, BUILT IN SPEAKERS (don't know why I'm happy about that), it's also at the same reliable dutch store AND only for the small price of 232 euros. Let's hope I've found the perfect match for me.