Sithtiger

Hi, I'm having a hard time getting two different RGB vendors to work using the same software. I'm upgrading a PC. The pertinent information is she bought a Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB AIRFLOW QL Edition and a Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L V2 RGB AIO. The motherboard she's using is an Asrock Z370 Pro 4 motherboard. It has no RGB headers, but the Corsair case has a fan controller, but the only way it can be controlled is through a remote that connects via a Molex connector, and so the Corsair iCUE software can't see it. I'm trying to get the Corsair case itself fans which has a total of 4 Corsair case fans. Then there's the Cooler Master AIO that has 2 fans. Is there any software that will first detect all 6 fans and sync them together? Additionally, is there a hardware controller that will work with both companies? I'm looking at the CORSAIR iCUE COMMANDER CORE XT. I've been reading that you can't mix the two. Is that true and is another alternative besides that horrible remote that doesn't allow the AIO fans to sync with case fans. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for info on the correct type of cord. I was looking at the PSU and it looked like it might both, but wasn't sure if the EU or Asia had different PSUs for their respected countries. I see the PSU itself works with all countries and clarification. Thank you for responding though. Yes, I didn't know that all PSUs work in any country. I'm ablighed to your reply.

I need some quick advice. I'm upgrading a PC for a client and they bought a Seasonic FOCUS GX-1000 White. It shipped with what I believe is a DC power cord. What I want to know is if the PSU will work with both AC and DC. It says it does, I just don't want to plug an AC cord from another PSU and have it blow up their PC, possibly my monitor!! I've included pics. Please advice ASAP. Thank you!

I have an update. I believe I found the issue, and it's pretty embarrassing. So, I'm a Mechanophile and I accidentally. I'm kidding. I discovered one of my PCIE cables was loose when my friend brought his PSU voltage tester. He tested my PSU and it showed all the rails pulling normally, but when he left and I booted my PC I didn't get a picture. I would always get a picture when I booted up. Anyway, I wasn't getting a signal. The first thing I thought of was (hopefully, fingers crossed) a loose connector. Well, I noticed one of my PCI-E 6+2 (8 pin) connectors was loose, specifically +2 connector was slightly out. I pushed it back in, and it worked and I couldn't reproduce the problem to cause it to lose signal no matter what I did. Even enabling Ray Tracing, which always did it, but usually happened when the PC boots up. I can't say for 100% it's fixed, but let's say I'm 95% sure it is. I'll have to wait and see, but I think it's fine. I bought a Seasonic FOCUS GX-850, 850W 80+ Gold, and was ready to test it outside the case first. As I said, it's been solid, I'm pushed it hard, and it's fine. I'm still gonna hang on to that Seasonic PSU for a week or two to make certain. If it all pans out, and I think it will, then I'll send it back since it's unopened, so I should get a full refund. A compressor is used to clean my computer. I keep it about 55 PSI and it cleans far better than a can. I believe the last time I cleaned it; it loosened the cable at some point and has been fine for 5 days so far. TL:DR: The 2+6 8-pin connector was slightly loose. I've reseated it, and it's been perfect ever since!

I updated my drivers to the latest version 512.95. It's not doing it in games, specifically Far Cry 6 when I have DXR on. When Ray Tracing is on, it's too much and it loses it's signal. I tried a different monitor too on a completely different input. Instead of DP, I used HDMI, and it did the same thing!

I thought I had them in my signature, I guess not. AMD Ryzen 5900x Stock W / Noctua NH-U12S / ASUS TUF Gaming X570-PRO Mobo / G.Skill Ripjaws V Series RAM 16GB DDR4 3200 / Gigabyte Vision RTX 3080 Vision OC 10GB / Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVME / Samsung 850 EVO 250GB / Crucial MX100 256GB SSD / Seagate BarraCuda ST2000DM008 2TB/ WD 1TB Black WD1001FALS HD / LG Blu-Ray Burner WH16NS40 / Corsair HX850 Gold Modular PSU / Windows 11 Home x64 / LG 27GL650F-B 144Hz GSync Compatible @ 1080p / Cooler Master HAF 912 Here is extended info my PSU. CORSAIR HX Series HX850 CP-9020138-NA 850 W ATX12V v2.4 / EPS12V 2.92 80 PLUS PLATINUM Certified Full Modular Power Supply My previous HX850 Gold went bad. This was the one that was shutting down when playing certain games like BF1. Anyway, they replaced it wit a Platinum version of it. I've had this PSU for 4 years now with no problems, until now if it's the PSU. What I don't understand is, no matter what component or even monitor would behave in such a way, where it would be completely solid after a reboot. Is there a way I could test the PSU to push it to do that? I've tried OCCT to test the PSU. I ran it for nearly 2 hrs with no problems. Could it be a Windows 11 problem by chance? I did upgrade from Windows 10 Home. I don't know if there's a way to force it to fault. I just want to know so I can replace the component. I have very little money these days!!!

About 3 weeks ago I started having some weird issues. I would boot into Windows 11 and my monitor would just go blank. When this happened, I tried turning the monitor off and on again, switching signals, nothing worked, short of forcibly restarting the computer. This only happened in a game once, but not since about a week ago. It all started after I ran a system restore because Windows became corrupt. I ran virus scans using Malwarebytes, Avast, came back clean. Anyway, after doing that my monitor (just my monitor, everyone else was enabled to stay on) would lose it's signal or go to sleep, or so it seemed. The weird thing was, that if I reboot my PC, it would be fine, no problems. I could run games for hours, I ran torture tests on the PC testing CPU, GPU and RAM, no problem. I tried installing new drivers. I uninstalled then using DDU of course in safe mode first to no avail. I only went up a driver and down a driver. It just stopped, but I fear it's the PSU. I also made sure sleep mode was disabled in the Power Plans too, so that's not the problem. My PSU did out a few years ago when I would play certain games. It would just shut down and restart. I'm not getting any of that, but when it does do it, it usually does it right after I boot the PC up and around at the 4 minute mark the monitor just loses it's signal. What I don't understand is, if that's the case, then why is it fine when I restart the computer?!? I know it could also be the DP cable. It could be the surge protector. It's over 7 years old, but the protection light is still on, but that doesn't mean anything. It's just weird though, that if it's the PSU, why would it just be fine if I gamed for hours gaming or torture tested it and it's rock solid, but only after I restart the PC. Again, it's been solid for the last week. I'm just wondering on people's input on this. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I just set up my TP-link AC4000, a.k.a Archer A20, and it's working fantastic, save one thing, the 2.4GHz band. I'm only getting up to 40 Mbps down and our bandwidth is rated at 200 Mbps down and we get 230 Mbps down. It's in 'router mode' too. When I was using our Spectrum router, I'd get the same speed 230 Mbps as I would on the 5G band. I just want to know what's bogging it down. I have both IPv4 & IPv6 enabled. I haven't changed default settings, save for stuff like SSID names and passwords of course. The only other things I've changed, the security protocols are all enabled. I also changed IPv6 LAN type to DHCPv6 rather than the default SLAAC+Statless DHCP. Should I change it back to SLAAC+Stateless DHCP or is my DHCPv6 just fine? What I'm looking for most, in this speed, reliability, range & security. I don't know why my IPv4 is so slow. I've tried my phones to my PC using WiFi mode. Could it be the security protocols enabled is too much? That doesn't make sense to me. Maybe it could be a little, but cutting down 3/4's of the speed out... I don't think so. Anyway, if anyone could help me fix that, it would be much appreciated! Model: Archer A20 Hardware Version: V3 Firmware Version: 1.03 20191026 rel.16299 (5553) Thank you in advance, Sithtiger

Thanks for the link. That worked, but I unfortunately ran into another problem. Once that was overlapping the bass issue. I'm ostensibly one of the few people who can hear ANC. It feels like pressure building up, like going up a mountain, or in a plane, but I can't get any relief. My ears actually start hurting, physically hurting. The noise cancellation is amazing, b ut t hat high pitched white noise that is pumped in, unfortunately bothers me. Even if you disable it, completely turn it off, I can still hear it, unless the headphones are physically turned off. I'm going to try the Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBT2M. They are just PNC, but should do everything else great. I'll say this though, the Sony WH-XB910N headphones are the most comfortable headphones I've ever worn and the ANC is the best I've ever had by far. Only the Sony WH-1000XM4 are the best is what I've read. The only issue I've read is people with larger ears might have some problems with it concerning comfort, and a small amount of people who are negatively affected by active noise cancellation.

Hi, just got Sony WH-XB910N headphones. The headphones are quite lovely, save the overpowering bass that muddies the sound. On my my Android phone I can download the Sony Headphone Connect app and just use their very basic equalizer to lower the sound, which works quite well....on the phone that is, but isn't available for PC. I wanted this to use on PC. All the controls work great on PC, streaming, movies, even games (save the mic), but the bass is just way too much. I even tried a work around using Bluestacks on Windows, but it needs to connect through the phone in order for the app to actually control and lower the bass. I have FXSound 9 band equalizer, which is quite good and it works on other headphones, but it seriously seems like Sony has programmed the headphones so that you can do very little to alter the bass. I can lower all the bass levels under 0 and it still sounds too 'boomy'. It just muffles everything. It does work with raising the treble and all the high ranges, just not able to lower the bass. If anyone can help, I would be most grateful!!!

Agreed, I've had good luck with G.Skill. My favorites are G.Skill, Corsair & and Micron memory. I won't use Micron anymore, because a long time ago, they refused to replace a bad DDR3 DIMM after I put a heatsink on it. The conditions in replacing their memory evidently is you can't put a heatsink on, because it obviously could have been me that damaged it, despite the fact the DIMM died in the last year of it's warranty. I told them thanks, now I'll know to steer clear of your products from now and I have. If I had more time, I'd watch Steve more. How much more FPS have they been able to squeeze from lowering the timings? I messed around with DDR2 and DDR3 timings a bit. I might have gotten 2 or 3 FPS more. I say "might have". It was probably closer to 1 or 2 if I took the aggregate of all the tests. Yeah, I remember when most games were CPU bound, hell I remember the first Monster3D by 3dfx. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe they were the first. My friend bought one. It had 4MB of VRAM....Ooooh. I could only afford to get 2MB on my Diamond Monster3D, oh yeah! I tell you though, Star Wars: Jedi Knight: Dark Forces II. I remember we played the game and looking at the graphics and were not that impressed by the 3D acceleration on it. We found acceleration was turned off by default. We then turned it on and OMG, the difference, back in 1997 been accelerated and non-accelerated. Sorry, got side tracked. Those were fond memories. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I haven't messed with timing in a while. It's not worth it to me just to get a few more frames. If you could get 10 to 15 more FPS on average without roasting your DIMMs, which you might be able to do for all I know currently. I could see CS:GO getting that since it get what 500+ FPS now in games with the 3080 and a 5000 series Ryzen. Thanks for all your helps guys, I really appreciate it. I apologize for the length of time it took me to reply, I've just been very busy with school.

Hi, I'm trying to find inexpensive DDR4 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3200 MHz or even 3600 MHz. I'm looking to spend no more than $130 for 32GB & I only want two DIMMs, not four, because of my Noctua NH-U12S SE-AM4 cooler. I checked every one of I can't find a match on Asus's own support list that it will work with the UEFI's AMP/XMP rated speed support. I realize that they could very well work, despite the list, so I'm hoping if I post a few of these, someone who also has an Asus TUF Gaming X570-Pro WiFi & looking for memory to be reliable above all and work at it's rated speed. I'm just copying the model number, but I'll provide link that will lead to Newegg. I'm not stuck to Newegg btw, Amazon is fine too (depending on the seller). To be clear, every single manufacturer, I only want 2 x 16GB=32GB First model is G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB F4-3200C16D-32GVK https://go.shr.lc/3CDsJlv The next one is Corsair Vengeance $118 CMK32GX4M2E3200C16 , This is going to DDR4 3600 MHz. CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro $139.99 CMW32GX4M2D3600C18, G.SKILL Trident Z Neo (For AMD Ryzen) $129.99 F4-3600C18D-32GTZN CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro 32G CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB $122.99 CMK32GX4M2D3600C18 https://go.shr.lc/3GMX2bY Here's Asus various memory vendors and if they support. Ironically, I found one that does, what I'm running now! I don't want to add two more DIIMs. I'd greatly appreciate it, if you guys can let me know about similarly for about the same price that is fully compatible and with operates fully with AMP/XMP. Thanks in advance! Memory_QVL_for_AMD_Ryzen_5000_Series_Processors_X570_0423.pdf

Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this issue? Isn't there some longer way to re-flash firmware to an earlier date? I know that's not usually the case, but I'm sure the manufacturer could do this if they wanted to. It's LG's fault since it was all from their site, with a self contained EXE file. I followed their instructions to a T. Here's LG's site with a link straight to their firmware page. My drive isn't an OEM either, it's LG. They should by all rights either fix it, give me a refurbished drive, or a brand new one at no cost to me. They are "looking into it" so I'll give them a chance, but my issue isn't an isolated one. I'm all ears though, guys. Any ideas? Anything?

Hi all, I flashed my LG WH16NS40 v.1.02 to v.1.05. I didn't need to flash it, but I hadn't in a very long time. Never bricked a flash and from what I understand, still haven't. Windows and Linux still reads it, but it won't read any discs at all. It won't read a CD, DVD, Blu-ray, empty or full. I tried reflashing back to 1.02, but no dice of course. I flashed it correctly, had no issues at all. Rebooted and it's like the lights are on, but nobody's home, sort of like my mind (but that's another discussion entirely). Seriously though, WTF, I've read people doing this and the same thing happening. I found a site where you can flash it back, but the one caveat is, the drive had to made in 2015 or later. I found it on a YT video. I have no affiliation to it. I'm just hoping someone can help me fix my drive. According to their forum, my drive is about a month too old and I read someone else tried this with a 2014 drive as well and theirs still doesn't work. Here's the forum. I don't even know if it works. It would be a great way to insert a virus into firmware is what I was thinking, but there are quite a few posts, so I'm hoping either it's legit or someone here can help me fix it. I don't care how really. I've also included info from my system regarding my drive that includes a screenshot of my optical drive info from Aida64. Thanks in advance!

I wanted to thank SkilledRebuilds & Falkentne for their help. Everything works fine now. I ended up reformatting. Everything is fine with the 3080 too. So far, it's a great GPU, and it's performing above expectations. The initial problems I was having with it seeing two GPUs were taken care of after using DDU again, actually. Most of the other issues fell into place after that was corrected, but I had changed and tweaked so many things, registry settings, services that I might as well reformat. Why didn't you back up? I did actually but didn't have a redundant backup like I usually do. I usually have a system restore backup followed by an actual Windows Restore disc, via DVD, but because I had just built this back at the end of March, the ONE time I did NOT make a DVD backup is when I needed it the most. My restore point didn't fail, it was overwritten because I didn't readjust the disk space usage, so that's on me. This year hasn't been so great, however, I think maybe a couple of people can relate :|. So, all games, save my Battlefield games work great. I don't know if I mentioned this before or not, but I did find a fix for the BF games and that was simply to enable V-sync. I have an LG 1080p 144Hz monitor, so the 3080 can easily. I don't know if that will work with Battlefield 2042, but I think it will because of the specs, I believe I can turn everything up to 11 on the video/advanced settings and it will hopefully run smooth as butter. I do remember having issues with my 2080 with Frostbite engine-based games, at least FPS, especially Battlefield. I don't know why, but for whatever reason, it worked itself out and I don't recall it was something I did to fix it. I believe it's a driver issue. It's just weird that even the 2080 had issues after I fixed the 3080's issues. I haven't tried it with the 2080 since the format. There is one other game that I can think of that had problems with the 2080 and 3080 and that was Metro: Exodus, but that too was corrected with enabling V-sync. Again, 90% of my games run perfectly now with the 3080. Oh, and I emailed Gigabyte and asked about the condition in which I received my GPU, that is no tape on the box itself, but the yellow tape on the electrostatic bag. That said that is how they ship their GPUs. The GPU is new from what I can tell. It even smelled new, but odd issues combined with the weird shipping methods made me think otherwise.