evil_noodles

Thanks for the response! Yes, disabling both has the CPU locked at 4.2 only, so even though its saying 8 x 50 its only getting 42.

Hola everyone! Specs: MSI MEG Z490I Unify i9 10850k G.Skill Trident 32GB @ 3200 Corsair SF750 2x NVME (raid0) 2x SATA SSD EVGA Hydrocopper 1080ti (full customer watercooled M-ITX system) I recently changed MOBO from an ASUS ROG Strix z270i to an MSI MEG z490i Unify and I'm seeing a behaviour I've not experienced before. In the BIOS I have configured an overclock on the CPU to 5.0GHZ, and after a reboot the BIOS is still showing the overclock [see BIOS screenshot]. However, when I look in Windows 10 (task manger, or CPU-Z) it's still only showing the base 4.2 [see CPU-Z and task manager screenshots]. It's been a while since I did anything with overclocking - so is this expected, or should I be doing something different? Cheers!

I'll crack it open when I get a free weekend and see what's what. Thanks for the inputs!

That's what I thought. Perhaps I've knocked the system and it's loosened it or something similar - worth taking it to pieces and rebuilding?

Hey again all, I've recently noticed that the EVGA 1080ti SC2 Hydro Copper card I bought 3 years ago is leaking at the card fluid input point (this isn't the screw in in/out connection holes but the plastic square section that these parts are in). Since it's out of warranty I'm looking to take it to pieces, has anyone done this before, any insights? This isn't something I've come across before (had a few water cards now, but none pre-bought fitted with water like this one). Thankies!

Glad to see you completed the build! Considering the temps you're getting, I would be pretty happy with what you've achieved! Nice build!

My first water cooling build (outside of AIO) and I have seriously caught the bug. I can only imagine how much fun a larger case would be! Specs in my footer.

Just to follow up on this, I changed the direction of my pull-exhaust fan on the 92mm Rad and the temperatures have dropped by almost 20 degrees so looks like the fan wasn't performing well in the pull configuration. It's now in push-intake and things are slowly getting more stable.

Thanks for the input guys, I'll try lowering the volts a bit on the CPU to see if that helps at the top end. So the temp jumps to maybe 70 and then climbs slowly as the loop warms up - it just doesn't appear to stop yet... I had considered that the loop wasn't the best but I've seen other peoples builds of similar components listing 70/80 under load. Perhaps I need to rein in my expectations a bit. Also it's worth noting it's stable, it's not crashed once, but the temps are scary and I know the components are not designed to work at those temps at all.

Good morning / afternoon / evening people, I recently finished a new mini-itx build which features a customer water cooling loop. I completed installing Windows a few days ago and was eager to test out some benchmarking and checking out the temperatures to see if everything was stable. I'm running everything at stock at the moment and I'm getting insanely high temperatures when any kind of load is added to the CPU, I have read lots of threads online about how the 7700K has potentially terrible temp-spikes but wasn't expecting this bad on a custom loop. My parts are; Corsair SF600 ASUS Strix z270i 7700K (de-lidded) Corsair DDR4 32GB Dominator EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 FTW3 Hydro Copper PrimoChill CTR + D5 Combo Nemesis GTS 240mm Rad Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 x 2 Nemesis 92mm Rad Noctua 92mm EKWB z270i Monoblock Loop order: Rez > Pump > 240mm Rad > GFX > 92mm Rad > CPU > Rez With everything stock, my idle temps are around 30 - 40 degrees which seems fine to me. However when I run any kind of benchmark (Prime95, or 3dMark, heck even a game...) the CPU temperature can reach well into high 90's to 100 degrees, which is clearly not OK! I've reseated the CPU three times, replacing the NT-H1 paste. Each time the CPU / Monoblock has had an even spread on the touching surfaces. I have replaced the TIM with Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra twice, and again, on both occasions the TIM has neatly covered the Dye and the cover neatly and evenly. The second time, I did not apply sealant and have left the cover clamped by the CPU housing on the motherboard. This is my first custom water cooling build and I'm worried I've made some horrendous rookie mistake. Anyone have any ideas? Cheers

So.... positive news! After managing to drain the system, without taking the whole thing to pieces, I was able to undo (with great difficulty I might add!) the D5 pump compression ring. After completely removing the ring, displacing the pump from the reservoir very slightly and giving the system a split second of power (I know how dangerous it is to run them dry) to my surprise the whine of a dry pump filled the room. It was not dead, the ring was waaaaay overtightened and stopping the impeller spinning. I replaced the pump, and replaced the o-ring and compression ring to a 'hand-tight' level, filled the reservoir with some coolant water and flicked the switch, it burst into life sucking all the water through. So I've currently just finished the priming of the loop. I've doused the case in tissue and will leave it running to see if I have any leaks. Thanks for all the input guys, and I'll be sure to post the finished item when I get everything sorted!

So the reservoir pump combo from PrimoChill is a CTR. Found a thread from 2014 from someone experiencing the same issue as I am and it turns out that the ring keeping the pump attached to the reservoir was overtightened, stopping the impeller with the attachment pressure. Tomorrow, when I have sunlight on my side I'm going to give the ring a twist to see if I can unscrew it. If I can't move it, then I believe that's probably the cause. Crossed fingers everyone!

Yeah that's what I was thinking. The cables coming out of the pump are at a pretty hard right angle, although overall they're very straight everywhere else. I'm wondering if that has possibly pulled the wires of the PCB.

I've got the second output on the same molex cable powering a fan when it's on.

I'm living in The Netherlands now, moved from the UK back in the summer for work - and to be fair it's been on the whole an incredibly positive experience (outside of this damn PC!). Looks like this is a job for the weekend. I'll take the blasted thing out and see what I can do in getting pictures to you guys. Once I have it out do you have any particular tests you think I should run?