REscobar

Oh wait, I made a mistake in the budget area, my original budget was 1700 USD, but I already got the CPU so that reduces it to 1150, I'll edit the original post to reflect that. -----edit below Ok, so I've looked into some of your recommendations, thanks btw, and have adjusted my build accordingly, still have to research a little deeper into the recommended cases and motherboard, as for the gpu I know I won't realistically be able to fit anything high end into the build, but so far looking good, thanks again PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon) Memory: OLOy 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 6800 XT 16 GB Video Card Case: Antec P101 Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($108.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Enermax Revolution D.F. 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg) Total: $653.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-25 22:53 EST-0500

Budget (including currency): 1700 USD 1150 USD (minus cpu cost) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Overwatch, Red Dead, Software Development Other details So I had planned something for that budget, but with the current scalping situation it has been frustratingly painful to get the core parts, finally got the 5900x and I think I'll have to skip the high end gpu and get something else. I already have a 1 TB SSD for the OS and all the software and games that will be needed, so I would like some opinions on the rest of the parts that I plan to acquire, I was eyeing a Scythe Fuma 2 back in November when it was going for around $60, but current pricing is around $100, so I might be better off with Noctua's NH-D15, also I don't want water cooler because where I live in would require more frequent maintenance and reliability is a must, heatsink is a simpler design and problems are easier to fix, also not interested at all on RGB (it doesn't increase performance *wink wink*), if you notice my preferred case doesn't have a window (window doesn't increase performance *wink wink*) so my ideal setup would be something discreet, almost like a sleeper. I do not plan on overclocking. Already have the following: Mouse Keyboard 1 TB SSD 75hz 1440p Freesync Monitor (Lenovo Q24h-10 23.8-inch QHD (2560 x 1440)) 5900x CPU (got to order on Feb 2nd, arriving this week) Looking for recommendations for best price/perfomance on: 32/64 GB (non-rgb) RAM Heatsink (non-rgb) Motherboard (non-rgb) Power supply (non-rgb ) (Discreet) Case (with space for a few storage devices that I plan to buy down the road) An affordable GPU that will run games on low/medium at 1440p/75Hz (was planning on getting a 6800xt but it seems impossible to find something close to MSRP), I believe a 1060/1660 performance class will get me going for a year or two I can only buy from Amazon and New Egg PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($94.05 @ MemoryC) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Team T-FORCE DARK Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($179.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 6800 XT 16 GB Video Card Case: Antec P101 Silent ATX Mid Tower Case ($108.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($110.99 @ Amazon) Total: $713.01 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-25 18:30 EST-0500

So after a few minutes researching this, the PS5 doesn't seem to have a "smart-delivery-like" systems as the XBox, so you probably need to redownload the game from the store to get the upgrade, and as you already know, you can only run PS5 games from the internal storage. Disclaimer, I don't own Borderlands nor a PS5, so the above info may be inaccurate

The only way I cant think of how this was implemented is that on PS4 the games already ran sandboxed (aka hypervisor, virtual machine, etc) without full access to the hardware (aka bare metal), and all the PS5 has to do is provide a similar sandbox (through software trickery and a few hardware features) for PS4 games to run and an enhanced sandbox for a few select titles that run with enhanced features or are PS5 aware. If this is correct, no actual emulation is required, or at least most of the code runs the same way as it did on PS4 and only a few occasional bits need to be emulated.

Thanks for your response, mine is also first party

So my controller is dying, but my battery pack is working fine enough, I will be buying a new controller and I was wondering if the battery packs are compatible, there is no clear compatibility charts or anything on the Microsoft store, the closest it gets is a bullet point indicating that the new battery pack they sell is compatible with usb-c controller (because it includes the cable), but the newest XBox One and XBox Core controllers are usb-c, does this mean they are compatible? https://www.xbox.com/en-us/accessories/batteries-chargers/play-and-charge-kit

How important is the torque sequence?, I didn't notice it until I was reasembling it, and tightened starting from 1 to 6

This settles it, the even if a whole rail is dedicated to the pci-e, it's maximum power is 180W which could be exceded at any time by the combined 6+8 pin Almost everthing from Newegg or everything from Amazon

Hard to believe when you are planning on a GTX1080 and not just a 1070... Because then a new PSU would be possible for the same amount of money. I'm on a dream monthly wage of 30,000 Honduran Lempira ~ 1,282.259 US Dollar, I can use half of that to buy ~50% of the system then next month or two, the GPU, then nothing PC related will be bought in a very long time (many years), even if its cheap, so that's why I'm planning on going high end on the GPU, to game at 1080p for the foreseable future I was convinced that a PSU must be bought pretty much since the first answer, but didn't provide an explanation other than "it's old". Do any of you have any recomendations on a PSU?

There is no need to get heated about this, I'm asking for information because I want to educate myself, also not that I'm not listening, I just don't have that much money, this parts will be bought over two months wage, so spending as little as possible was a priority, now all your answers seems to indicate I will have to buy a new PSU, but also doesn't fully explain why do I have to do it, just that I will have to do it. How does it work?

Well, doing further research and calculations, Acording to the picture the PSU can output a maximum 456W (of 680W) on the 12V Rails: 12V 15A = 180W 12V 15A = 180W 12V 8A = 96W 456W

Technically, this isn't true, since it's not posible to spread it evenly without having the perfect surface, perfect consistency and perfectly and evenly tightening the heat spreader, but for practical purposes, it almost always spreads evenly enough. So the reason was most likely this, I double ask because I'm trying to educate myself

I'm trying to educate myself, could you elaborate?, it has two 15A 12V rails and one 8A

So, do you believe the problem was actually solved by applying better quality (old af) thermal paste?

Well, the system has throttled pretty much since it was bought, and was brand new-in box, and also the paste that was doing the actual "work" was not that dry, even more the paste that I applied has been sitting in a drawer for about 5~6 years, and worked better that the "factory supplied" (I know I'll have to reapply very soon, but that was all I had on sunday night)