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Ganuza_

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  1. Ganuza_
    Hi, I overclocked my R7 1700 to 3.6 Ghz at 1.25V and now I noticed that the fans and leds (even the Ryzen stock cooler ones) keep going for about 30 seconds after I the monitor shuts down. When before it was almost instantly. I have: Asus Prime X370 Pro. Bios Version 0902 2017/09/18 (there are three more newer, 1001, 1201 and 3401, but I didn't read good things about them). RAM GSkill Flare-X 2400 Mhz (certified for Ryzen), running at 2400 Mhz according the bios. SSD Evo 850 250GB The startup is like before, or even faster now. It doesn't restart three times. I did the OC using the bios. Ryzen Master didn't even apply my changes.
  2. Ganuza_
    Hi, I build a Ryzen system a month and a half ago. During the firsts days I had a problem where my screens wentoff, keyboard and mouse leds went off, but the case and processor fans keep on (leds on and spinning). I solved it by updating the bios of my motherboard. (an Asus program told me that it was up to date, but actually was an very old one). Or so I think until last week, when it happened again. My specs are: Mobo: Asus Prime X370 Pro Processor: Ryzen 7 1700 (still no OC) RAM: 16GB Flare-X @ 2400 Mhz (2x8GB) PSU: XFX XTR 650w 80 Plus Gold SSD: 850 Evo 250 GB GPU: GTX 950 (GTX 1060 6GB soon) I didn't even touch the bios (rams are running on 2400 Mhz, I checked out that) yet. Someone said me that it might be the PSU, but as after upgrading the bios it didn't happened for more than a month, I don't think that the problem is there. But, when this happens I can't turn off the PC by holding the power button (it does nothing no matter if I hold it for 20 seconds). Some ideas? Currently I am with the bios version 0902. There are two more (1001 and 1201), but I didn't find good opinions about them. I had my PC connected to this: But I also used that same thing with another PC (with a PSU Master Cooler 600w Bronze). Since a couple of days I have my PC connected directly to the wall because the guy that sold me the components told me that that thing is not good for a PC (I always had PCs connected to those things (don't know the english name, "estabilizador" in spanish, not UPS) and never had a problem)
  3. Ganuza_
    I already know that it opens on the screen were you close it. I'm looking for something that opens it on the screen were I open it, no matter on which screen I close it.
  4. Ganuza_
    Hi. Simple question. Is it possible to configure Windows 10 to recognize on wich display do I open a folder, or a document and show it on that one? Display 1: D1 Display 2: D2 For exaple: I have the taskbar on both displays. If I open a file explorer on the D1, it appears on the D1. If I close it and open the file explorer from the taskbar of the D 2, it also opens on the D1. The "solution" that I know is open the file explorer, drag it to the D2 and then close it there. Next time that you open the file explorer from the taskbar, will open on the display where you close it. BUT, if then I want to open it on D1, I have to open it, go to D2 and then take it to D1. This happens with everything. So, is there a way to make Windows more "intelligent"? And also, split the button that minimize everything, so if I press it on D1, just affect D1 (and put it on the taskbar of D2, because it doesn't have it) Like if it were two PCs connected with Synergy (thanks, Linus)
  5. Ganuza_
    Very well, tomorrow it first hour I'm gonna swap the PSUs. Thank you
  6. Ganuza_
    It's a pain in the ass, but I guess I will have to change PSU to see if the problem persist or if it goes with the PSU. But I think that the first time that happened, I was using the old PSU, no sure though. The problem with running the system with 1 RAM bank is that it went a full week without problem. It can do the same if I remove a bank, or it can take even longer. A memtest will not help to see if it's a RAM issue?
  7. Ganuza_
    Hi, the first time this happened I had only one display (a week ago, maybe). The screen went black, the leds of the keyboard and mouse went off and I had to shut down the PSU manually (holding down the power button of the case did nothing) The leds and fans of the case stays on, so do they one of the CPU (R7 1700). The second time was half and hour ago. Now with two displays. I was using Opera with less than 10 tabs open. Same thing with leds and fans. But this time I was able to shut down the PC holding the case button. My specs are: CPU: R7 1700 with stock cooler (NO OC). Average temp. is 34C (91F - 92F, I think) according CPUID HWmonitor, with spike to 47C (116F) for a couple of seconds. This average and spikes are while I'm using Opera. 56C when gaming (DOOM on high) GPU: GTX 950 Strix (mild OC with MSI afterburner, but at the moment of the problem it wasn't on the OC) Mother: Asus Prime X370 Pro RAM: 16GB Flare-x (2x8GB) 2400 Mhz PSU: XFX XTR Series 650W Full Modular 80 Plus Storage: SSD 850 Evo 250 GB Fresh copy of Windows 10 x64 downloaded with media creation tool on and USB. I have the PSU connected to an stabilizer. But my old PSU (Extreme Power Plus 600W) also was connected to this stabilizer (for 4 years I think) and never had an issue and now is working fine on another PC. And happened again justo now. I turned on the PC, leave it on the desktop and went to the bathroom. When I returned, the displays were off, leds of K/M off and couldn't shut down the PC holding down the power button. Had to turn off the PSU. What I didn't see was if the GPU led stay on when that happens. Also, it can't beep. My case doesn't have speaker.
  8. Ganuza_
    Hi, the first time this happened I had only one display (a week ago, maybe). The screen went black, the leds of the keyboard and mouse went off and I had to shut down the PSU manually (holding down the power button of the case did nothing) The leds and fans of the case stays on, so do they one of the CPU (R7 1700). The second time was half and hour ago. Now with two displays. I was using Opera with less than 10 tabs open. Same thing with leds and fans. But this time I was able to shut down the PC holding the case button. My specs are: CPU: R7 1700 with stock cooler (NO OC). Average temp. is 34C (91F - 92F, I think) according CPUID HWmonitor, with spike to 47C (116F) for a couple of seconds. This average and spikes are while I'm using Opera. 56C when gaming (DOOM on high) GPU: GTX 950 Strix (mild OC with MSI afterburner, but at the moment of the problem it wasn't on the OC) Mother: Asus Prime X370 Pro RAM: 16GB Flare-x (2x8GB) 2400 Mhz PSU: XFX XTR Series 650W Full Modular 80 Plus Storage: SSD 850 Evo 250 GB Fresh copy of Windows 10 x64 downloaded with media creation tool on and USB. I have the PSU connected to an stabilizer. But my old PSU (Extreme Power Plus 600W) also was connected to this stabilizer (for 4 years I think) and never had an issue and now is working fine on another PC.
  9. Ganuza_
    Hi, sorry for the long time. I changed mother+micro+ram a week ago, so I'm going to pay attention to the graph to see if this happens again. The old specs were CPU: Amd phenom II x4 955 BE (no oc) Mother: M4A785-M Ram: 6GB DDR2 800 Mhz PSU: Extreme Power Plus 600W GPU: GTX 950 Strix Now that PC is running with an ATI 5770 Vapor-x (but I didn't check on MSI to see if this keeps happening)
  10. Ganuza_
    Hi, I was messing around with Afterburner, trying to do some mild OC and noticed this: Power limit: 120 Temp limit: 92 (priority) Core Clock: +78 Mem clock: +25 Temps. around 46 when Overwatch is open on the training room. I used it for about an hour and didn't noticed anythig abnormal. The spike on the left I think that happened when I minimized OW, but when the other occurred, I was using Opera with one or two tabs open (google and reddit) and Whatsapp Opera. Does that mean that is time to change my PSU? Extreme Power Plus 650W. It has maybe 4 years.
  11. Ganuza_
    Very well, thanks to all of you people for helping me to clarify my doubts. I'm going for the Asus Prime X370 Pro and Flare-X at 2400Mhz CL16 (optimized for Ryzen). I'm really amazed for the amount of comments and help that I got. Thank you all!
  12. Ganuza_
    So, with my humble GTX 950 is gonna be almost the same with 2400 or 3200? In some videos you can see up to almost a 30 fps range between 2400 and 3200 Mhz (but with a 1080/ti, of course)
  13. Ganuza_
    Very well, i'm gonna take a look at it, thank you!
  14. Ganuza_
    And where can I find that information? https://rymem.vraith.com have some RAMs listed for the board that I want, but I couldn't find any confirmation. So, yes. If it doesn't have the "Designed and tested for AMD Ryzen" label, it will not go much further than 2400 Mhz. Sadly my options are limited to: RAM that is not confirmed for Ryzen (they are highly expensive here on Argentina) Or 2400 Mhz
  15. Ganuza_
    Hi, I'm thinking about buying micro+mother+ram. I have this in mind: CPU: Ryzen 7 1700 3.0 Ghz (And overclocking it to 3.7 or .8). I was looking for the 1600X, but no one sells it here. Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming. RAM: 16 GB 3200 Mhz (from what I could see, 3200 Mhz is the sweet spot). My questions are, If I want to use RAMs at 3200 Mhz, do I need to buy the ones with CL14? Those that are "Designed and tested for AMD Ryzen Optimized compatibility with AMD X370, B350, and A320 chipset", like the Flare-X at 3200 Mhz CL14 (expesinve as fuck) or Flare-X at 2400Mhz CL16 (but 2400 Mhz). What happens if instead I put RAM that is not optimized for Ryzen on that build? Like G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200 Mhz (CL16) or Vengeance led 3200 Mhz (CL16). I wouldn't be able to reach 3200 Mhz? I spent hours looking for information about this, but all I could find are posts of 3 or 4 months ago. Thanks.
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