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Buurvrouw

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  • Content count

    90
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About Buurvrouw

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Europe

System

  • CPU
    i5-6600K @4.6Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z170 Pro Gaming
  • RAM
    HyperX Savage DDR4-2400 2x8GB CL12
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GTX1070 G1 Gaming
  • Case
    Anidees Ai7
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 250GB, Sandisk Plus 480GB, 2* Samsung 500GB
  • PSU
    Corsair HX750
  • Display(s)
    Asus PB278Q
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H55
  • Keyboard
    Logitech Orion Spectrum G910
  • Mouse
    Mionix Castor
  • Sound
    Audioengines P4 Bamboo with SMSL AD18 and a Sony MDR-1A
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  1. Passive Inline High Pass filter

    Uhhh, wow! thanks this is just what I need!
  2. Hey all, I want to make an inline high pass filter. I looked up some Information in the Internet but it doesn't make me smarter. There is one question that I want to get answered and that is: Do I only need a capacitor for an inline high pass filter? Thanks in advance for the People that can answer this one!
  3. High Level Input VS Low Level

    Thanks =) I can really recommend that one! do you have knowledge about building your own passive high pass?
  4. High Level Input VS Low Level

    Yo, I got the SB-1000 and that this is a monster! Sounds like in the club here in my living room Got it like used new for a 150€ less then new
  5. High Level Input VS Low Level

    Another question. =) Is it bad not to crossover my 2 Speakers? Or is it oke the way it is? Setup would be: 2 not crossovered speakers and one crossovered Sub @70Hz Was thinking about a crossover between the amp and the Speakers, but what Kind do I Need, passive or active? The AD18 doesn't have a crossover function build in, unfortunately..
  6. High Level Input VS Low Level

    Oke, thanks, yea the sub has a knob. I don't think the AD18 has such a settings ^^
  7. High Level Input VS Low Level

    they are like the creme the la creme under the Subs! Cool that I got a deal on that. I hope they ship the SB and not the PB, but the PB isn's bad aswel. The Thing was, the order showed a Picture of the PB and the order was for the SB. I wrote the seller a message, let's see what I get, if I don't Forget it, I will write a message here about it am pretty excited! btw are you the guy to talk to about crossover? My P4's goes as low (advertised) as 58Hz. What is the crossover for the sub? 65Hz?
  8. High Level Input VS Low Level

    Thanks for your quick reply. I just got a deal for a SVS SB-2000, I probably going to take that one
  9. Good day to all, I currently own a SMSL AD18 and I paired them with the Audioengine P4. Sounds great! Now I want to add a sub. I am only using it for my 2.1 System, so no movies, only music. I am listening to Trance, Dance, Electro, Hip-Hop, Dubstep, Hardstyle, Chillwave, like all Kind of bassy music =) I have two options: Low Level High Level What sounds best? What is better? Advantages of both? Disadvantages of both? I hope someone can help me because the amount of high Level Input subs is not that great and if I have one it's kinda expensive. Like 500€+ expensive. I saw two subs and that is the Klipsch SW12 Low Level only, and the Yamaha ns-300sw, both low Level and high Level. I really prefer the Yamaha. What do you guys think. Any other Subs are welcome =)
  10. Sony Walkman buying advice

    Don’t go for Fiio X1 or the X1II. I’ve owned them both, the X1 sounds harch, the X1II is very very sluggish and the Bluetooth doesn’t work well. If you want to go bang for the buck, definitely go for a Sansa Clip+ with Rockbox on it, this sounds amazing and you have a lot of customization. If you want to go DAP, then I can recommend you a Shanling M2 or M3S, I am owning a M3S and that thing is a beast. I will cost you some, but you will have some! I’ve done a lot of research with these DAPs, my main concerns were: smooth UI, minimum of 200GB Micro-SD, no touch and no addons whats so ever regarding license fees you pay when getting for example a Onkyo or Pioneer DAP with Android etc. These will costs you even more then the Shanling. And of course the main thing, sound quality. What I mentioned before the thing is a BEAST! Has a 2.5mm balanced output aswel. I still need to test that one. Also what I should mention is that it has a automatic function build in for sensitive IEM’s. They sound amazing with the M3S. There are other cheaper options out there, but you will sacrifice on or more of these points: UI speed and simplicity, Micro-SD expansion capabilities, sound, overall device quality, design, outputs, functions like balanced output and very stable Bluetooth connection with Aptx codec) Or you pay 400€+ and you will get more hehe. Your choice, this is what I think and have experienced with some DAPs. P.S. I still own my Sansa Clip+ ^^ it’s a great one for doing sports!
  11. Balanced Audio

    I agree!
  12. Balanced Audio

    Thanks so much for your info, you saved me my brainjuice and maybe for some other people aswel! That I know, it seperating the the ground signal and cancelling any of that noise floor and interference. It can, what a lof of them say expand the sound stage and tighten the low end, and make the mids and highs more clear and present. depending on the headphones ofcouse. In general, all headphones are balanced, you just need to wire the cable correctly and have the proper uutput device, some you can't do easily without destroying them, and other you just need to re-wire and you are good to go =) and and and, with MMCX IEM's it's even more easy, this because the cables for these are available all over the place for a fraction of the price in comparison with a single 4 pole balanced cable. MMCX -> IEM's = 20€ Headphone = above 130€ makes no sense at all this in regard that they all do it with OCC-Silver bla bla bla. I read about that stuff a lot, just need a thick enough cable to run the current, with as less resistance as possible without sacrafising compatibility and user friendliness. Not that you use a cable that is like 8 AWG for a headhpones, that is rediculous xD. Snake oil, I hate that, same with HDMI Cables (not the one with the processor in it that Linus Reviewed, that one worked) Only thing that helps with having a better conductivity material is that you can make it thinner cable with the same resistance. I need to get this of my back, this because there is a lot of bull crap / snake oil out there! Don't believe everything that you are being told by the masses! Figure it out by yourself and you will come to astonishing conclusions and save a lot of Money! That you, yes you can put in better gear
  13. Balanced Audio

    Thanks for you in depht explanation anothertom. So 1on1 2on2 3on3 and 4on4, mirror the Image from the other side, like how I would say =) and it doesn't matter how the headphone is wired up inside? Will this just work fine as long as everything is mirrored with eachother in the connectors? Single ended output - 3 pole and 4 pole will work just fine Balanced Output - Only a 4 pole will just work fine, both sides Need to be mirrored with eachother Balanced Output - 3 pole will probably destroy the equipment. So if I make the cable and connect everything 1on1 2on2 and so on I would get the balanced audio experience for my headphone? Am I understanding this correctly?
  14. Balanced Audio

    Thanks to both of you
  15. Balanced Audio

    https://www.head-fi.org/threads/balanced-headphones-w-an-unbalanced-amp.634108/page-2 This is a good Forum, there is one Statement: plugging a single ended cable into a balanced amp is a very serious risk for the amp as you end up joining 2 wires that really shouldn't meet. as explained here: I can understand that, but what if I just make a 4 pole cable and both sides are connected the same way (checking with a multimeter ofcourse). Then it's not a single ended cable, it's a balanced cable right? Please correct me if I am wrong!
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